Guys, let's talk about these hot back-ends. It's a problem (at least I would assume it is).
I've had my hopper for a few weeks now. Had to claim a warranty for a new body the minute it came in the mail, as I had cop lights upon first use (see prior pages in thread). The unit operates very well with the new body, but the back-end is still getting very hot almost instantly upon clicking it on for a hit. I thought cleaning the battery threads would fix this, but it hasn't.
Hopper Labs has told me that because the back-end completes the circuit, it's normal for it to get hot and not dangerous. But why, then, do some people say it doesn't happen to them and on units like mine the head gets almost as bad as the mouthpiece within 5 seconds? They've told me that if I want to have it looked at, I have to send the whole unit in, but why not just send out a replacement back-end?
Can anyone confirm that it's safe to use hoppers with hot back-ends? Risk of explosion and/or shock?
Sk8, I think some leavening is necessary to smooth out the misunderstanding... actually, if HL used those exact words "normal to get hot but not dangerous", it's disappointing that's what they'd say, when there are caveats to consider.
There's input on the Fix thread, FYI, that may help to determine what is "normal".
Grasshopper Fixes
In short, though... when you experiencing a HOT backend, click off, then adjust the temp dial back and forth a small amount (just a bit, maybe 1 temp mark back and forth). Click on, and try again.
If it still gets hot, inspect the set of threads on the backend assembly and look for oxidation. See if any comes off with ISO (or more betterer, DeToxit or Blu Tack). If you've done all this, and the backend is consistently hot, then I'd say with some confidence that you definitely have a hot backend issue...
However, and I don't mean to be facetious, but, if the threads are clean, and the temp dial wiggle doesn't help, and yet you are at least getting clouds at T5, then you will eventually get a new Hopper when the one in your hands fails. Dealing with a Warranty Return if you even have a semi-working Hopper will not be a fun experience.
I hope that helps a bit.
New Topic
Just got a Ship confirmation from GHL that they are shipping my GH2 batteries... coincidence that just today they also said they'd ship my new Ti backend (see post at top of page). I guess they like saving money on stamps, too. I wonder how long they've had those batteries....
Now then...
@GreenHopper , thanks for the bulletin post...
I couldn't resist emailing the GHL blog, since they
asked for ideas...
I sent this because it's what's on my mind... things like screen-removals, temperature dial twisting, external charging, etc, are also things we here broach from time to time, so maybe those topics will make their way on the blog... but first let's see if they even bother with this one:
Hi
It's nice to see you guys are stepping more out front and we are happy to be invited to comment on ideas.
I am just a member of the fuckcombustion.com forum (more properly called FC), and myself and others had caused the creation by a another member of a "Fix Resource".
It is careful not to "recommend" anything, but here's one tip among several that we'd certainly like your feedback on.
While ISO is the appropriate cleaning method for those (e.g.) weekly cleanings, we have found that using a material called "Blu Tack" has been a fantastic non solvent way to clean the back end threads. It takes but seconds to apply and remove and there you see the oxidation buildup from that poor battery doing all that heavy lifting passing current between those threads!
We get that this is just how it is with oxidation; but it would be comforting to hear what you have to say about the inevitable buildup of oxidation, where ISO just does not cut it over the long run.
What's your opinion? We'd like to know!
Yours Truly,
Batman
So I've served the ball, so to speak.... I hope it's received well!