Discontinued Vaporblunt 2.0 & VB 2.0 DLX
- Thread starter TherealVaporblunt
- Start date
filteredhead
Well-Known Member
Thanks TRVB, appreciate your response and help here. I only use my VB2 for herb mostly with its native MP, however also have the PonG and WT (star perc) which I use from time to time. From a standpoint of ability to deliver consistent thick vapor hits my stock VB2 does not compare to my Pax and Solo with or without use of a WT. I've tried packing loose, medium and tight; small loads .06g to large .2g loads; tried fine med and coarse grinds; tried super slow long draws and short micro-hits, and alternating ones between too -- all with slightly varying results but none really delivering the thicker stronger hits I seek most often (and get from other portables mentioned). With stock setup the best for me so far has been dry fine grind not quite tightly packed, I have to use at least .15g to really get a head change and that takes the full 12 minute session and usually longer to get most of the actives into me. By loading the herb directly into the heating chamber (mod) i see thicker visible vapor, feel head change quickly and the ABV comes out darker (like my other portables) using the native MP or hitting from the PonG end with/without WT.
OF
Well-Known Member
Could well be, I don't do softhead stuff. I don't post there. I do know vapes like this one, though. How they work, what's in them, what the parts mean........
Last I looked, none of that good stuff was in that (or any other?) vape.
OF
filteredhead
Well-Known Member
I've been trying to figure out why the ABV came out different shades in a few early tests, it seems maybe related to amount of herb and packed-ness of the chamber, in addition to other factors like draw strength and length and intervals per length of session, etc. Oh well, after some more testing it appears I was worried about nothing and my suspicions were wrong, the VB2 regulates temperature just fine as it should at low battery levels just as well as it does at mid and high levels.
Had several sessions with VB2 today each with .1g loaded and heater/temp set to 2. The last two sessions were with low battery level (1 blue bar) and yet the mod loaded VB2 rocked me just as hard each time all the same and the ABV was same shade as the earlier control test loads when battery levels were higher, so no worries, all appears to be working as it is supposed to be.
Had several sessions with VB2 today each with .1g loaded and heater/temp set to 2. The last two sessions were with low battery level (1 blue bar) and yet the mod loaded VB2 rocked me just as hard each time all the same and the ABV was same shade as the earlier control test loads when battery levels were higher, so no worries, all appears to be working as it is supposed to be.
kelper
.
Do you think it maintains correctly after reaching temperature like the Solo does? This is what seems most wonky to me, but maybe I'm relying too much on visual cues (never see it blink again to maintain).
OF
Well-Known Member
"Back of the envelope" numbers say it should take something like 30% longer to make temperature when the battery is exhausted, but once there it should perform basically the same.
Neat little machine, isn't it? Some serious thought went into it. A lot of 'lessons learned' stuff from the V1 Vapor Blunt.
OF
Neat little machine, isn't it? Some serious thought went into it. A lot of 'lessons learned' stuff from the V1 Vapor Blunt.
OF
filteredhead
Well-Known Member
I believe so. My guess why I didn't see the green light go from solid to blinking state on a fast and long draw is that VB2 has 5 LEDs indicating heat levels that step 25 deg (F) whereas on the Solo the LEDs vape heat levels are more granular something like 9 deg (F).
Makes sense, yes and thank you for all of the good info and keeping us sane here. Well you do the best you can we know and appreciate.
kelper
.
Good point.
At least with the VB2 I've never seen it shoot from 0-90 in no time flat like I've seen with the Solo - there are definitely some programming issues with that one.
filteredhead
Well-Known Member
Haven't run into that issue personally however no doubt they all have their quirks it seems, we learn and vape on. Always seems soon as something perfect is about to be achieved, perfection is redefined and new cycles spawn. The up shot is we are supposed to end up with better vapes.
OF
Well-Known Member
You're very welcome. Trying to keep good info (I think that means useful, FWIW) flowing is the goal for many/most posters here? Likewise looking for more sanity, although I don't think we all agree what sanity is? Thank you for the words of appreciation, they are well received.
BTW, I think you're point of resolving smaller steps is a good one. The size of drop we sometimes see in Solo won't show with less steps, like a scale that reads .01 grams against one that only resolves .1 gram steps.
However, I think in this case there's an even bigger effect in play, thermal mass. This, along with the shift in conduction/convection balance between the vapes means Solo is having to supply more heat to heat more air to get the same vapor production for a hit since it depends more on convection (known to be less efficient than conduction which VB uses).
Combine this with the much greater thermal mass of the hot part in VB (Solo basically as that thin SS cup). A much smaller reserve of stored heat is available to call on than is available in the larger mass of copper (brass) in VB (which also conducts the heat out better as a material, SS is actually a very poor conductor of heat relatively). The net total of this is hit it hard and the smaller mass with less efficient transfer having to do a bigger job (calorie wise) is going to 'sag down' more under the load.
Obviously not a fatal flaw. The very sort of stuff addressed with all that strange science and engineering stuff so you and I can just enjoy the well designed (and built hopefully....) products we do. It ain't easy, but it can be done well, and for a reasonable price, as we see.
Thanks again for the kind words.
OF
filteredhead
Well-Known Member
In testing the herb loading directly into the heat chamber for the past week, I started noticing better and worse flavor and varying levels of thick vapor...
Okay a bit more testing data to report with the mod loaded VB2, all with .1g of GSC loaded each time and heat setting 2. I tried with VB2 battery level being at full, medium and low, through 2 complete battery cycles and find that the found that the ABV does come out a lighter shade when battery level is low compared to when battery level is high. That data point does not me convince that the heat regulation is not working as designed, nor that other portables vapes have better or worse heat regulation circuitry. The reason I care about the data point is that the ABV shade coming out darker in some cases and lighter in other cases matches what I was experiencing in each specific session. I originally noticed through taste of the vapor, and thickness of vapor on exhale. Meaning as I was testing this mod for the last week, I was settling on heat setting 2, however a few times I needed to back down heat level to 1 (from 2) because the flavor was starting to get poor and yes too thick of vapor was being produced. While in a few other sessions also on heat setting 2 found that flavor remained very tasty and I was getting less thick vapor through out the session, in those cases the ABV would come out lighter in shade than previous runs. The darker ABV shades at heat setting 2 have occurred for me when battery level was high especially right after unit was taken off charger. The lighter ABV occurs at heat setting 2 when battery level is low at like 1 blue bar. Since I do care about taste and thickness of vapor, when battery level is full I start with level 1 and maybe raise to 2 only for last few hits prior to ending session at 6 or 7 minutes. I generally charge the unit when battery level is low at 1 blue var however have found that going up to heat level 3 necessary to get the thicker vapor I am looking for.
Quick recap on how I used to use my VB2 and how I use it now:
- with stock VB2, i would load .15g of herb into the basket, set heat level 4 (sometimes 3), VB2 would produce what I consider thin vapor and have to run unit about 15 minutes to get the actives with only slight head change.
- with loaded herb directly into the VB2 heat chamber, i now load .1g, set heat level 2 (sometimes 1) most of the time, get thick vapor (that I much prefer) and have to run unit about 6 minutes. to get the actives with a noteworthy head change.
The shorter sessions and lower heat setting means that I now get great battery life out of the VB2, it just keeps on working and working without needing a charge as often. It really wasn't getting much use before, the Solo was getting all of my attention, but now I am using the VB2 much more.
Okay a bit more testing data to report with the mod loaded VB2, all with .1g of GSC loaded each time and heat setting 2. I tried with VB2 battery level being at full, medium and low, through 2 complete battery cycles and find that the found that the ABV does come out a lighter shade when battery level is low compared to when battery level is high. That data point does not me convince that the heat regulation is not working as designed, nor that other portables vapes have better or worse heat regulation circuitry. The reason I care about the data point is that the ABV shade coming out darker in some cases and lighter in other cases matches what I was experiencing in each specific session. I originally noticed through taste of the vapor, and thickness of vapor on exhale. Meaning as I was testing this mod for the last week, I was settling on heat setting 2, however a few times I needed to back down heat level to 1 (from 2) because the flavor was starting to get poor and yes too thick of vapor was being produced. While in a few other sessions also on heat setting 2 found that flavor remained very tasty and I was getting less thick vapor through out the session, in those cases the ABV would come out lighter in shade than previous runs. The darker ABV shades at heat setting 2 have occurred for me when battery level was high especially right after unit was taken off charger. The lighter ABV occurs at heat setting 2 when battery level is low at like 1 blue bar. Since I do care about taste and thickness of vapor, when battery level is full I start with level 1 and maybe raise to 2 only for last few hits prior to ending session at 6 or 7 minutes. I generally charge the unit when battery level is low at 1 blue var however have found that going up to heat level 3 necessary to get the thicker vapor I am looking for.
Quick recap on how I used to use my VB2 and how I use it now:
- with stock VB2, i would load .15g of herb into the basket, set heat level 4 (sometimes 3), VB2 would produce what I consider thin vapor and have to run unit about 15 minutes to get the actives with only slight head change.
- with loaded herb directly into the VB2 heat chamber, i now load .1g, set heat level 2 (sometimes 1) most of the time, get thick vapor (that I much prefer) and have to run unit about 6 minutes. to get the actives with a noteworthy head change.
The shorter sessions and lower heat setting means that I now get great battery life out of the VB2, it just keeps on working and working without needing a charge as often. It really wasn't getting much use before, the Solo was getting all of my attention, but now I am using the VB2 much more.
OF
Well-Known Member
I believe TRVB said he answered that specific topic at great length on the Pinnacle thread in the last week, have you looked there?
Best is a subjective decision, I think you have to make that for yourself in the end?
Good luck with it, I don't know the Pinnacle but IMO you won't go wrong with VB 2.0.
OF
Jared
Cannabis Enthusiast
Be very careful when using filterheads mod that you don't try to put too much herb in. I broke one of the clips that holds the stirrer onto the cap. Still works fine but it will be way easier to break another one now. In no way blaming it on anyone in this thread just letting you know that it is flimsy so be very careful.
filteredhead
Well-Known Member
Sorry to read that happened to yours. I did see others post in this thread that their stir-cap clip(s) broke/melt during normal use. I've been lucky since not had any troubles with my stir-cap clips using the stock setup nor with my mod loading method. With mod loading I put in .1g most all of the time, though .15g fits in there easy enough for me. The few times I tried loading .2g I ended up using a smaller basket (the VXC ELB lid) to relieve pressure.
kelper
.
It would be interesting to know if those with broken stir caps are turning theirs up past 3, which I believe is supposed to be done with the oil attachment, not the stir cap. In the case of Jared it probably just bottomed out on the mod.
filteredhead
Well-Known Member
I guess so because I ran my stock VB2 at 3 heat settings early on, then tried 4 for a month to see if I could coax some thicker vapor out of it, even tried 5 a couple times but did not like that experience - regardless my stir-cap clips are okay (for now at least).
OF
Well-Known Member
I too have run mine over 3 a lot with no troubles.
I think it's a safe assumption if there was a temperature issue with the material it would have been uncovered in the development and Beta Testing.....
OF
Herbal Ant
Well-Known Member
Well, I have done about 20-30 sessions since I received my replacement unit. Mind you, I'm not sure if this is a new unit, most likely just tried replacing some parts and that is why I am having these issues. It also came back to me with the original melted stir cap I sent them with the unit they said was defective and they were sending a new one... Whatever, I had the new stir cap I was sent before that I never used, didn't really expect to get another one.
Anyways, I have been watching these plastic tabs like a hawk and last night I'm like what the fuck... Turn on my unit, almost fully charged, tabs are fine, turn unit past desired temp from pushing button too many damn times, so instead of pushing the button a million times more. (Just press the button over and over sometimes and doesn't register...) I hold the button down to turn it off, turn it back on and leave it at 1, do a session, tabs look fine, material is pretty dark already...on 1. I turn it to 2 to see if there is anything left of it and do another session, there is or maybe it was plastic, cause I open it when I'm done and there are the fucked up plastic tabs I have been waiting for, on 2! What the fuck man, you gotta do something about this stir cap before we get cancer or some shit.
I feel like this could have been a good product, but this is what I think happened. Eh fuck it,
that's good enough, lets go make the Pinnacle so we can release them back to back and not put much thought into either. 
Although I can't really speak for the Pinnacle, the VB2 could have been way better. IMO, you need to bring the VB2 back to the drawing board, at least issue everyone a cap that doesn't melt...
But wait, there's more, another reason I think it should be brought back to the drawing board. The temperature issues, it is obvious that the lights are an indicator that the temperature is rising and definitely not a timer. Anyone who has used it for oils like I did a couple days ago prolly knows that. Sitting there with 2 or 3 out of 5 battery life, struggling like a motherfucker to get up to heat level 5. Finally hits it, after what seems like an eternity. I hit it, falls back to 4, blinking on 5 again... "You pussy". Turns off shortly after, leaving me unsatisfied. I charge it to full and use it while it's plugged in, heats up ok now, not bad, only issue I see is a white ring forming on the glass where it's touching the white Teflon I guess that is... Looks like melted Teflon, what the fuck, cancer here I come...
There is no doubt in my mind that battery level and plugging it in effects heat performance. I also believe that once it reaches the temp setting for the herb chamber, the heat, can and often does go above what it is supposed to. I believe it does this without lighting any more LEDs above the heat setting you select. So, you select 1, which is supposed to be 370, anyone who has vaped at 370 knows it will barely darken the product at all. Then you open it and its charred to shit, obviously it went above 370, but it didn't light up to tell you. The lights wont light above the setting you select, but you know it has to be way hotter to produce those darkened results, maybe something to do with programming? Maybe it has something to do with how you hold it, or hit it, or if you have big hands it keeps in more heat. That could be why the cap melts for some and not others.
I don't know, all I know is I'm a saaaad panda.
I guess it is possible I got another defective one, but what the fuck you know? If it wasn't for bad luck, I would have no luck at all, story of my life.
Anyways, I have been watching these plastic tabs like a hawk and last night I'm like what the fuck... Turn on my unit, almost fully charged, tabs are fine, turn unit past desired temp from pushing button too many damn times, so instead of pushing the button a million times more. (Just press the button over and over sometimes and doesn't register...) I hold the button down to turn it off, turn it back on and leave it at 1, do a session, tabs look fine, material is pretty dark already...on 1. I turn it to 2 to see if there is anything left of it and do another session, there is or maybe it was plastic, cause I open it when I'm done and there are the fucked up plastic tabs I have been waiting for, on 2! What the fuck man, you gotta do something about this stir cap before we get cancer or some shit.
I feel like this could have been a good product, but this is what I think happened. Eh fuck it,
that's good enough, lets go make the Pinnacle so we can release them back to back and not put much thought into either. Although I can't really speak for the Pinnacle, the VB2 could have been way better. IMO, you need to bring the VB2 back to the drawing board, at least issue everyone a cap that doesn't melt...But wait, there's more, another reason I think it should be brought back to the drawing board. The temperature issues, it is obvious that the lights are an indicator that the temperature is rising and definitely not a timer. Anyone who has used it for oils like I did a couple days ago prolly knows that. Sitting there with 2 or 3 out of 5 battery life, struggling like a motherfucker to get up to heat level 5. Finally hits it, after what seems like an eternity. I hit it, falls back to 4, blinking on 5 again... "You pussy". Turns off shortly after, leaving me unsatisfied. I charge it to full and use it while it's plugged in, heats up ok now, not bad, only issue I see is a white ring forming on the glass where it's touching the white Teflon I guess that is... Looks like melted Teflon, what the fuck, cancer here I come...
There is no doubt in my mind that battery level and plugging it in effects heat performance. I also believe that once it reaches the temp setting for the herb chamber, the heat, can and often does go above what it is supposed to. I believe it does this without lighting any more LEDs above the heat setting you select. So, you select 1, which is supposed to be 370, anyone who has vaped at 370 knows it will barely darken the product at all. Then you open it and its charred to shit, obviously it went above 370, but it didn't light up to tell you. The lights wont light above the setting you select, but you know it has to be way hotter to produce those darkened results, maybe something to do with programming? Maybe it has something to do with how you hold it, or hit it, or if you have big hands it keeps in more heat. That could be why the cap melts for some and not others.
I don't know, all I know is I'm a saaaad panda.
I guess it is possible I got another defective one, but what the fuck you know? If it wasn't for bad luck, I would have no luck at all, story of my life.
kelper
.
I am not an expert on electrical devices or electrical engineering. And without being privy to the details of any logic programmed into it, analyzing that aspect from device behavior alone is a game of inexact reverse engineering (unless you can thoroughly map the behavior).Well, I have done about 20-30 sessions since I received my replacement unit. Mind you, I'm not sure if this is a new unit, most likely just tried replacing some parts and that is why I am having these issues. It also came back to me with the original melted stir cap I sent them with the unit they said was defective and they were sending a new one... Whatever, I had the new stir cap I was sent before that I never used, didn't really expect to get another one.
Anyways, I have been watching these plastic tabs like a hawk and last night I'm like what the fuck... Turn on my unit, almost fully charged, tabs are fine, turn unit past desired temp from pushing button too many damn times, so instead of pushing the button a million times more. (Just press the button over and over sometimes and doesn't register...) I hold the button down to turn it off, turn it back on and leave it at 1, do a session, tabs look fine, material is pretty dark already...on 1. I turn it to 2 to see if there is anything left of it and do another session, there is or maybe it was plastic, cause I open it when I'm done and there are the fucked up plastic tabs I have been waiting for, on 2! What the fuck man, you gotta do something about this stir cap before we get cancer or some shit.
I feel like this could have been a good product, but this is what I think happened. Eh fuck it,
But wait, there's more, another reason I think it should be brought back to the drawing board. The temperature issues, it is obvious that the lights are an indicator that the temperature is rising and definitely not a timer. Anyone who has used it for oils like I did a couple days ago prolly knows that. Sitting there with 2 or 3 out of 5 battery life, struggling like a motherfucker to get up to heat level 5. Finally hits it, after what seems like an eternity. I hit it, falls back to 4, blinking on 5 again... "You pussy". Turns off shortly after, leaving me unsatisfied. I charge it to full and use it while it's plugged in, heats up ok now, not bad, only issue I see is a white ring forming on the glass where it's touching the white Teflon I guess that is... Looks like melted Teflon, what the fuck, cancer here I come...
There is no doubt in my mind that battery level and plugging it in effects heat performance. I also believe that once it reaches the temp setting for the herb chamber, the heat, can and often does go above what it is supposed to. I believe it does this without lighting any more LEDs above the heat setting you select. So, you select 1, which is supposed to be 370, anyone who has vaped at 370 knows it will barely darken the product at all. Then you open it and its charred to shit, obviously it went above 370, but it didn't light up to tell you. The lights wont light above the setting you select, but you know its way hotter to produce those darkened results, maybe something to do with programming? Maybe it has something to do with how you hold it, or hit it, or if you have big hands it keeps in more heat. That could be why the cap melts for some and not others.
I don't know, all I know is I'm a saaaad panda.
However, I will make a couple observations as food for thought. I have never had a problem with the stir cap and there are two things I never do that others who have problems may do regularly. 1). I never run it above 3 with the stir cap on as levels 4 & 5 are temps more suitable for oils IMO, and in the opinion of TRVB if I remember correctly, and 2) I never run it unless it is fully charged.
This last point may be inconsequential but as further food for thought I will give an analogy that may not hold water, but also may have some merit. You mentioned that you ran it on level 5 when it had only 2 or 3 out of 5 battery life, and you saw it struggling to keep up. I wonder if this creates an overheating condition due to inefficient operation. Like if you take a manual transmission car on the highway and run it at 90mph while only in 2nd gear. It's gonna burn up. Maybe I'm mixing apples and oranges too much here applying mechanical fatigue ideas to an electrical device ... but I wonder. You were running it on 5 for oils in this case so didn't have the stir cap in place, but if you run it with low battery regularly for vaping then could this affect the stir cap?
OF
Well-Known Member
Interesting thoughts, although I'm not sure about the car analogy (not that that matters....there's lots I'm not sure about....). This is a closed loop system, it 'looks at' the temperature and decides if it needs to heat up (much like your house does). Lower power reserve in the battery means lower voltage so lower power output rate. Like having a smaller heater or opening a window to increase heat load would do. This means the heater has to be on more minutes per hour. Since the battery self heats when it's running the heater, this does mean more heat for the electronics.....
Likewise, plugging in the PA provides higher voltage than the battery ever can, giving faster heat up times. But no change in final temperature. It just gets there (and recovers from a hit) faster.
I think a worst case (weak battery, high heat, heavy hitting) can make the response time longer, perhaps a lot, but I doubt pushing it to 100% duty cycle? Sound engineering would call for pushing that limit you'd think?
Anyway, I agree, the clip and other failures seem very uncommon. For sure I've had no problems like that and I've used mine a LOT. FWIW.
OF
Herbal Ant
Well-Known Member
I never run it above 3 with the cap, it was on 2...I also edited the post and added more info since I first posted it. IMO, some units, mine most definitely and the one before it, if this isn't indeed the same one... heat up more then what they indicate with the leds and that is most likely why the cap melts. I know what 370 F does to my product, and that sirs, was most definitely not 370 F and 395 F shouldn't have melted that cap.
So what do we do now TRVB, because I really don't feel like paying to ship it to you again and have the same thing happen all over again...
Herbal Ant
Well-Known Member
Anyone that received one of the first tester units PM me please.
OF
Well-Known Member
Entirely likely, I wouldn't expect them to self identify of course, such things are usually confidential.
OF