USB powered vaporizer

[RandomFactor]

I just watched some videos about usb power delivery trigger boards and I'm really impressed by their capabilities. They seem like ideal power supplies for desktop units, 100w is probably not enough for an enail but it is plenty to drive a 12v heater. For charging of a 3s battery the 15v profile and a buck conveter down to 12.6v might be workable.

Has anyone actually used these yet?

One of the videos I watched

 

[invertedisdead]

If you can power my desktop off a USB cable, that would be super tight!

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

If you can power my desktop off a USB cable, that would be super tight!

I dont see what is the big difference in having USB connection vs a DC plug or any other when you will have to use a PSU to raise the needed amps/watts. PC usb slots are a couple of amps max.

Those are just buck boost regulators with a usbb module, you still need a PSU to drive them.I can run my logvapes off a Car starter battery with 12v output.. See Misty Log thread ,blokenoname also used one.
Have you thought of using DC coils/nail options Mr.Hotbox has a model for reference.

 

[KeroZen]

Yes it's just a negotiation protocol to set voltage and current between two devices but you still need the beefy PSU if you intend to achieve high powers. Then as @Abysmal Vapor aptly said above, what's the difference with any other solution apart from the cable?

That being said, USB-C connectors are better than micro USB. But they are not really the most durable power connector either. A good old XT-30 or TX-60 has lower contact resistance for instance and stays in place better.

 

[invertedisdead]

I dont see what is the big difference in having USB connection vs a DC plug or any other when you will have to use a PSU to raise the needed amps/watts. PC usb slots are a couple of amps max.

Those are just buck boost regulators with a usbb module, you still need a PSU to drive them.I can run my logvapes off a Car starter battery with 12v output.. See Misty Log thread ,blokenoname also used one.
Have you thought of using DC coils/nail options Mr.Hotbox has a model for reference.

If you had a USB powered log that you could control the power digitally via a program, like a condenser microphone, that would be pretty sweet. Theoretically you could run a PID algorithm that way, just like configuring Arctic Fox programs. Electrical engineering is out of my wheelhouse but if you can do it with a box mod, it should be possible with a vape.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

If you had a USB powered log that you could control the power digitally via a program, like a condenser microphone, that would be pretty sweet. Theoretically you could run a PID algorithm that way, just like configuring Arctic Fox programs. Electrical engineering is out of my wheelhouse but if you can do it with a box mod, it should be possible with a vape.

I can wire the + and - to a boxmod and do the same.. I can solder a DC 2.1 plug to 510 atty too .. The Chip and softare do the magic . I dont see how USB is superior,but i am not an engineer too . KeroZen is on the point XT connector are rated for high amps ! BTW there quite a few buck boost with PC output.

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[KeroZen]

At the moment your best bet and not necessarily that pricey would be to get a DNA250 board and hook that to some heater that can be controlled by TCR/TFR, and just use a laptop style AC/DC PSU delivering enough Watts on the input side.

You can get monster rips on 50W. So even aiming at 100W, you would be well under the big DNA output capacity, even if that's probably overkill. And voila! On demand log vape, getting from cold to rip in 3 seconds then using only the power necessary to sustain your draw, whether you are an elephant or a mere human being.

 

[invertedisdead]

My original statement was mostly in jest, controlling a vape with a USB cable is way outside my skill set, but I do think it could be kind of cool with the right low draw device like I sometimes do with my oil pens. Any kind of external PSU would be kind of a dealbreaker to me though I think. I’m thinking about USB microphones with 48v phantom power, bypassing traditionally bulky PSU requirements or even outboard interfaces.

 

[RandomFactor]

Yes it's just a negotiation protocol to set voltage and current between two devices but you still need the beefy PSU if you intend to achieve high powers. Then as @Abysmal Vapor aptly said above, what's the difference with any other solution apart from the cable?

That being said, USB-C connectors are better than micro USB. But they are not really the most durable power connector either. A good old XT-30 or TX-60 has lower contact resistance for instance and stays in place better.

The cable is a big difference. I would much prefer to use nice braided cables to power my enano than the existing cord. If the power supply was on top of the desk I could use a shorter cable, farther away just plug in a longer one instead. Want to set it up out on the deck? Just use a power bank.
I think there is also value in having your power bricks be an easily replaceable commodity. Weather I need power from 12v, 110 or 220 there are easy adapters that most users will already have. Most of my portable electronics already use type c so I have chargers scattered around the house and in my vehicle already.

 

[KeroZen]

Sure but your average USB charger can not deliver that much power. Basic Chinese phone chargers are 2A at 5V written on the tin and most often their voltage collapses above 1A. Power Banks are often also pretty limited, and USB2 ports on computer are only 0.5A per spec (some go slightly higher tho but nowhere near the power you are after)

A real charger able to deliver 100W looks more like an hefty brick and I just looked on amazon, they also cost more than an equivalent standard PSU of comparable power. So if you already have one for your fancy phone, why not. Although charging cells that fast does lower their service life, so that's not something I would do personally (but hey Apple wants you to buy a new phone every couple of years so that is in their interest!)

Anyway the PSU is only part of the problem, you would need to be able to regulate those 100W somehow or you'll combust in no time, or worse make your heater go pop! Perhaps using the PD protocol you could change the PSU settings on the fly and select a few different delivery profiles, but that would fall short compared to a real temperature control.