Unnamed DIY based on 510 style DHV

ApatheticEuphoria

☣Fuck_Combustion☣

Here is how it should look completed.(minus the top O-Ring)


I plan to glue the two glass cylinders together using sodium silicate(water glass). It should be non toxic and resistant to extreme temperatures after curing.

Unless someone here has an alternative. I don't know where to source a 28mm glass tube of proper length.


Stem bowl screen (this is where the herb goes).


Glass balls to cool the vapor.


Temperary O-ring to hold the herb chamber to the glass cylinder(will glue all glass together with sodium silicate..


MOD is Vaporesso LUXE II.


Operating in wattage mode. 45w. (This MOD also has TCR available).


Standard RDA deck with stainless steel coils.


28mm glass cylinder (replacement tank to Smok TFV16) with 4, 1mm air flow holes.


Disassembly...


Herb chamber bottom screen.


Different angle...
 
Last edited:

ApatheticEuphoria

☣Fuck_Combustion☣
Should be safe right?


Sodium silicate, also known as water glass or liquid glass, is a chemical compound composed of sodium oxide (Na₂O) and silicon dioxide (SiO₂), forming a glass-like material when dissolved in water. It has many industrial, chemical, and household uses due to its adhesive, heat-resistant, and preservative properties.

### Composition and Structure
Sodium silicate exists in a range of compositions, but the general formula is **Na₂SiO₃**. It's often available as an aqueous solution or in solid form (powder or granules). When mixed with water, it forms a thick, viscous liquid.

### Properties
- **Adhesive**: Sodium silicate has excellent adhesive properties when applied to various surfaces, especially in bonding materials like glass, ceramics, and even metals.
- **Water-resistant**: When it dries, it forms a water-resistant coating, which is one reason it's called "water glass."
- **High-temperature resistance**: It's stable under high temperatures, making it suitable for use in fireproofing and high-temperature applications.
- **Alkaline**: Sodium silicate is highly alkaline, with a pH ranging from 10 to 13 depending on concentration, making it corrosive to skin and some materials.

### Applications
1. **Adhesive**:
- **Glass and Ceramics Bonding**: It's often used to glue glass and ceramics due to its strong bonding ability.
- **Paper and Cardboard Adhesive**: Sodium silicate is a common adhesive in corrugated cardboard manufacturing.

2. **Sealant**:
- **Automotive Use**: It can be used to seal cracks in engine blocks and radiators temporarily.
- **Concrete**: Used to seal concrete surfaces, improving durability by making them water-resistant and dust-free.

3. **Fireproofing**:
- **Insulation**: It's used to treat fabrics and construction materials to make them more fire-resistant.

4. **Water Treatment**:
- In water purification, it helps in coagulating fine particles to form larger aggregates that can be easily removed from the water.

5. **Detergents and Cleaning Agents**: Sodium silicate is used in detergents and soaps, especially in industrial cleaning products, because of its ability to break down oils, grease, and dirt.

6. **Corrosion Inhibitor**:
- In boilers and other heating systems, sodium silicate is used to prevent corrosion by forming a protective layer on metal surfaces.

7. **Preservation**:
- **Egg Preservation**: In the past, eggs were dipped in a sodium silicate solution to create a protective coating and extend shelf life.
- **Concrete and Masonry**: Used as a hardening agent in porous building materials.

8. **Art and Craft Uses**: Sodium silicate can be used in pottery and ceramics to create glaze, and in crafting projects requiring strong, durable bonding.

### Precautions
- **Corrosive Nature**: Due to its high alkalinity, sodium silicate can cause skin irritation and damage materials that are sensitive to alkalis, such as some plastics or metals.
- **Handling**: Gloves, eye protection, and proper ventilation are recommended when working with sodium silicate to prevent skin contact and inhalation of fumes.

### Forms
- **Liquid Sodium Silicate**: The most common form, often used in industrial applications and bonding.
- **Solid (Powder or Granules)**: Sometimes used in dry mixes and for specific applications requiring a dry form until water is added.
 
Last edited:
ApatheticEuphoria,
  • Like
Reactions: Octavia

Fish!

New Member
What a neat project!! Full convection from air moving through the coils? I wonder if a flat SS clapton coil (AVS-style) might give extra surface area for heating that air... tend to be TCR-friendly too! Great work 😍
 
Fish!,

ApatheticEuphoria

☣Fuck_Combustion☣
What a neat project!! Full convection from air moving through the coils? I wonder if a flat SS clapton coil (AVS-style) might give extra surface area for heating that air... tend to be TCR-friendly too! Great work 😍
Thank you!
Yes, full convection with an all Glass/SS air path.
I am planning on trying different coil configurations in the future, just waiting for these to run their course first.

AVS style? Do you mean like these?:

 
ApatheticEuphoria,
  • Like
Reactions: Fish!

Fish!

New Member
Thank you!
Yes, full convection with an all Glass/SS air path.
I am planning on trying different coil configurations in the future, just waiting for these to run their course first.

AVS style? Do you mean like these?:

yes, those are the coils I was suggesting - hard to tell without hands-on but I thought they might be able to create a sort of "heating shelf" that the air has to pass more directly through, compared to more 3-dimensional coils that allow for more omnidirectional turbulent airflow
 
Fish!,

Hippie

Well-Known Member
Nice :tup:
You might want to check out the Project, iHeat, and Stempod threads if you haven't found them already
I think @Alan used a champagne cork body lined with stainless steel foil in one of his builds

It's been a while but I think my best builds for the Stempod were 4 big vertical coils or thick dual super clapton oval coils (I wrapped them around a trimmed lollipop stick)
 
Hippie,
  • Like
Reactions: Fish!

Fish!

New Member
Nice :tup:
You might want to check out the Project, iHeat, and Stempod threads if you haven't found them already
I think @Alan used a champagne cork body lined with stainless steel foil in one of his builds

It's been a while but I think my best builds for the Stempod were 4 big vertical coils or thick dual super clapton oval coils (I wrapped them around a trimmed lollipop stick)
sounds like OP should do this^ and ignore me 😆
 
Fish!,

ApatheticEuphoria

☣Fuck_Combustion☣
Nice :tup:
You might want to check out the Project, iHeat, and Stempod threads if you haven't found them already
I think @Alan used a champagne cork body lined with stainless steel foil in one of his builds

It's been a while but I think my best builds for the Stempod were 4 big vertical coils or thick dual super clapton oval coils (I wrapped them around a trimmed lollipop stick)
Curious about the "champagne cork body" would you be able to link it? If it's not too much trouble.
I would appreciate it.
Not sure why you would line an already glass body with anything except for maybe insulation.

I've done a fair bit of research on suitable material for glue in this project, as well as lining the nozzle of a Hot Air Rework Soldering Station with Temperature Control, Adjustable Air Volume, Digital Display... for use as a VERY high power, forced air, $50 Injection Vape. Most of them come with mica paper insulation, which is of course a no-no as it degrades easily Into a dust that can cause scarring of the lungs. I've removed the mica paper and plan to line the nozzle with Sodium Silicate. Best option I've come up with so far. (With help from some community.) Looking for alternatives...

Its got excellent features as far as a DHV is concerned.

WEP 858D Hot Air Rework Soldering Station with Temperature Control, Adjustable Air Volume, Digital Display for SMD Soldering with 3 Extra Hot Air Nozzles https://a.co/d/8LQggzV

Look at the heat up time on this beast:
Heat up video
 
Last edited:
ApatheticEuphoria,

Hippie

Well-Known Member

Rework stations and temp controlled paint strippers were popular in the 90s and naughties for cheap DiY vapes but as you rightly say there are some safety issues so I preferred to use 900 series soldering irons instead.
 
Hippie,

ApatheticEuphoria

☣Fuck_Combustion☣

Rework stations and temp controlled paint strippers were popular in the 90s and naughties for cheap DiY vapes but as you rightly say there are some safety issues so I preferred to use 900 series soldering irons instead.
Thanks.
Ohh I see. For some reason I was thinking the glass neck of a wine bottle. Now it makes sense to line it.
 
ApatheticEuphoria,
Top Bottom