ultrasonic cleaner question.

redrum891

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Cleaning resin stuck around edges on some of my parts, I hear some people use them and curious if rubbing alcohol or just hot water + soap will be enough to get rid of resin that a brush and alcohol cannot get off of it unless I scrap with a knife(which i don't want to scratch the metal)

I was going to buy a $20 small one, 45kw and 500ml capacity.

I figured cleaning screens / glass bowls / metal vaping devices that get dirty and possibly dosing capsules.

thanks!
 
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RustyOldNail

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Cleaning resin stuck around edges on some of my parts, I hear some people use them and curious if rubbing alcohol or just hot water + soap will be enough to get rid of resin that a brush and alcohol cannot get off of it unless I scrap with a knife(which i don't want to scratch the metal)

I was going to buy a $20 small one, 45kw and 500ml capacity.

I figured cleaning screens / glass bowls / metal vaping devices that get dirty and possibly dosing capsules.

thanks!

Have you tried SIMPLE GREEN CRYSTAL?

I have a powerful Ultrasonic Cleaner, spent a lot of time learning about the technology, what to do, what not to do. The CAVITATION action can be quite destructive. I don’t use it much, and not for any of my vape gear. Cheap ones are usually a waste of money. I don’t have the time to write an essay on them, I’m sure some others may disagree, so up to you….

If you use this sites SEARCH feature, use the TERM: ultrasonic, and “Search by member”: RustyOldNail
I have several posts over time that may give you a bit more insight. Good luck!
 

redrum891

Well-Known Member
Have you tried SIMPLE GREEN CRYSTAL?

I have a powerful Ultrasonic Cleaner, spent a lot of time learning about the technology, what to do, what not to do. The CAVITATION action can be quite destructive. I don’t use it much, and not for any of my vape gear. Cheap ones are usually a waste of money. I don’t have the time to write an essay on them, I’m sure some others may disagree, so up to you….

If you use this sites SEARCH feature, use the TERM: ultrasonic, and “Search by member”: RustyOldNail
I have several posts over time that may give you a bit more insight. Good luck!
SIMPLE GREEN CRYSTAL

Nope ; ;..... was hoping I could make things work with ISO. I just mainly want to be able to clean screens and my volcano's metal piece that screws together, the resin around the edges on that is damn near impossible, even the top of the chamber reducer is hard to get off with 91% ISO, using a straw brush that I used for bongs.

Learned my lesson on torching screens, figured I would go with an approach to save money over time. I left my last screen in for a week and it didn't get the edges off real good. Maybe I should of thrown it in the freezer and maybe it would chip off?

anyway, thanks for the opinion. Was about to hit place order on one and stopped just now. I don't have issue with glass.
 
redrum891,

RustyOldNail

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I soak my titanium DCup parts in the SGC, a few hours later, or on occasion, overnight. Most of the BAKED on reclaim has floated off, same on the sapphire cup. The SGC is safe and not meant to be heated. I have a gallon jug. The more expensive “Dark Crystal Clear”, is designed to be low heated, like on a coffee warmer, and can be reused several times, and safe. I use that for small stubborn pieces, both metal & glass. Both products have downloadable “safety sheets”.

I believe you mentioned some parts you want to clean are on a device, so you can’t soak them, that’s a problem. It’s just as both my 99% ISO, and 190 proof ethanol, there are a lot of backed on resign, just don’t work well. An UC wouldn’t work in those situations either.
 

redrum891

Well-Known Member
I soak my titanium DCup parts in the SGC, a few hours later, or on occasion, overnight. Most of the BAKED on reclaim has floated off, same on the sapphire cup. The SGC is safe and not meant to be heated. I have a gallon jug. The more expensive “Dark Crystal Clear”, is designed to be low heated, like on a coffee warmer, and can be reused several times, and safe. I use that for small stubborn pieces, both metal & glass. Both products have downloadable “safety sheets”.

I believe you mentioned some parts you want to clean are on a device, so you can’t soak them, that’s a problem. It’s just as both my 99% ISO, and 190 proof ethanol, there are a lot of backed on resign, just don’t work well. An UC wouldn’t work in those situations either.
local walmart has this.


gallon is around $25. that is $4, could i just pour that into a jar and let it sit?

i usully use grease lightning for cleaning and that looks kinda like it but grease lightning wouldn't clean resin off my stuff.

If I can reuse it and then fill up a spray bottle to replace grease lightning for cleaning then I would just pick up the gallon, it seems like this is very good stuff if it can remove resin out of hard to get corners over night,
 
redrum891,

RustyOldNail

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local walmart has this.


gallon is around $25. that is $4, could i just pour that into a jar and let it sit?

i usully use grease lightning for cleaning and that looks kinda like it but grease lightning wouldn't clean resin off my stuff.

If I can reuse it and then fill up a spray bottle to replace grease lightning for cleaning then I would just pick up the gallon, it seems like this is very good stuff if it can remove resin out of hard to get corners over night,

Not the same, below link is specific product. NO added fragrance chemicals.

 
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ibnganja

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Get a small ziplock
Put 99% ISO & some salt in it

Put your parts in the ziplock

Put warm water in the ultrasonic cleaner

Put your ziplock in the ultrasonic cleaner and run it

That's what I do and cleans quite well like this

After wards I pour boiling water on it

Then let it air dry
 
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CANtalk

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ISO in ultrasonic cleaners becomes an explosion hazard, don't do it & not worth the risk (the baggie suggestion can be a work around).

Soap and hot water options are good w/ ultrasonic cleaners. I went to the top of the strong cleaning agent list and use PBW in hot water. It's a very strong caustic oxidizer (will strip anodizing haha). Legendary effective and I've found it superior to using heated 95% ISO (in both effectiveness and cost). And PBW plus hot water works perfectly w/ the benefits of an ultrasonic cleaner... the clean cycle is fast, totally hands off and incredibly clean :nod::clap:.

Good luck with your decision.
 
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redrum891

Well-Known Member
Get a small ziplock
Put 99% ISO & some salt in it

Put your parts in the ziplock

Put warm water in the ultrasonic cleaner

Put your ziplock in the ultrasonic cleaner and run it

That's what I do and cleans quite well like this

After wards I pour boiling water on it

Then let it air dry
Man, I'm not gonna lie. That sounds like some wizardy shit. I read that people were worried about ISO in them due to heater up the liquid, one spark and can cause a fire. That does sound good, do you use just a regular 45kw cheap $15 cleaner?

If that other cleaner the other guy mentioned works good, that would be simple and easy too since I could replace it for grease lightning for house cleaning and just put some aside for vaping equipment.
 
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RustyOldNail

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ISO in ultrasonic cleaners becomes an explosion hazard,

Exactly, that’s why I suggested the OG poster, not buy a UC. As recently proved, there is a lot of misinformation on the internet. There are some potentially “safe” way to use alcohol in a UC, but seldom would one need to take the risk, for a small cleaning improvement. Personally, I’ve never seen a situation that anything I needed to clean, needed a ISO in UC risk. Even a quick look into further UC information, shows use PLASTIC blocks the cavitation frequency. I’m out, all this information is available on the Google….
 
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redrum891

Well-Known Member
Exactly, that’s why I suggested the OG poster, not buy a UC. As recently proved, there is a lot of misinformation on the internet. There are some potentially “safe” way to use alcohol in a UC, but seldom would one need to take the risk, for a small cleaning improvement. Personally, I’ve never seen a situation that anything I needed to clean, needed a ISO in UC risk. Even a quick look into further UC information, shows use PLASTIC blocks the cavitation frequency. I’m out, all this information is available on the Google….
pbw looks cheap and looks like 1lb would last a long ass time to clean some small parts.

I think your solution is just as good too. I'm just going to try and go the cheap route and I hate pouring alcohol back into the container when cleaning stuff, rather just toss if I could.

I agree UC with ISO is a no no as I posted above. Just a funny fix, and not knowing how good it cleans compared to other liquid solutions, when they both potentially could work and clean them flawlessly.

No reason to get upset about misinformation like we are doing election or talking about covid lol(I hate both parties, not into politics). I don't think anyone has mentioned to use ISO unless using it in a plastic bag(I would of added to do it outside) but still not worth the chance of burning your equipment and vape parts.

I appreciate all the help, if anyone else has better info, would appreciate.
 

PutOneInTheAir

E-nano, DynaVaps, v3pro, ROFFU
I soak my titanium DCup parts in the SGC, a few hours later, or on occasion, overnight. Most of the BAKED on reclaim has floated off, same on the sapphire cup. The SGC is safe and not meant to be heated. I have a gallon jug. The more expensive “Dark Crystal Clear”, is designed to be low heated, like on a coffee warmer, and can be reused several times, and safe. I use that for small stubborn pieces, both metal & glass. Both products have downloadable “safety sheets”.

I believe you mentioned some parts you want to clean are on a device, so you can’t soak them, that’s a problem. It’s just as both my 99% ISO, and 190 proof ethanol, there are a lot of backed on resign, just don’t work well. An UC wouldn’t work in those situations either.
Awesome! I image it o-ring safe love for DynaVap o-rings and glass parts?

Are you diluting your mixture or straight? I'm going to definitely look into this
 
PutOneInTheAir,

RustyOldNail

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Awesome! I image it o-ring safe love for DynaVap o-rings and glass parts?

Yes, totally, another plus.

Are you diluting your mixture or straight? I'm going to definitely look into this

I mostly, use 100% in small amounts. Keep some in a plastic squeeze bottle for glass rig cleaning, a few squirts in rig, that’s diluted with hot water, then sits 5-10 minutes, then clean water flush. If you do Simple cleaning more often, you won’t encounter as many situations that require more expensive or flammable chemicals as often. I convince myself to do more often cleaning, as clean always taste better, and you lungs might thank you someday….
 
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CANtalk

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pbw looks cheap and looks like 1lb would last a long ass time to clean some small parts... I think your solution is just as good too. I'm just going to try and go the cheap route and I hate pouring alcohol back into the container when cleaning stuff, rather just toss if I could....
That's why PBW is so legendary and popular... it's cheap, a super strong cleaner, environmentally friendly, biodegradable and can be poured down the sink drain with water after use. I use PBW & hot water to clean dab surfaces, and significantly burnt residue at times... and the ultrasonic cleaner combo perfectly cleans it :tup:. I've also seen PBW recommended for silicone gaskets fwiw.

:peace: :leaf:
 
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RustyOldNail

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That's why PBW is so legendary and popular... it's cheap, a super strong cleaner, environmentally friendly, biodegradable and can be poured down the sink drain with water after use. A tub lasts years. I use ~ 1 tsp in ~400 ml w/ my ultrasonic cleaner. 1 tsp at a time out of a 1 lb :brow:. I most recently picked up 5 lbs. No rush to buy now and totally shelf stable.

:peace: :leaf:

Yeah, that’s another I keep on hand, for occasional use on my GLASS rigs, not to be confused with the other cleaners I mentioned that are good on glass and metal.
 

RustyOldNail

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Will PBW work for SS too? screens etc non glass?

I only use it on glass, the other cleaners work better for me on the types of products I described, like sapphire and titanium.
This is a link to the company that makes it for more information:

 
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RustyOldNail

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👍 I just order some since I have so many DV parts and glass with a mixture of everything.

You think it would be safe for the ROFFU plastic cu? Or you think that has any thing to do with the cracking?

I didn’t use it on the Roffu, but it should be safe on most materials, certainly less aggressive than ISO. I tend to avoid soaking as much as possible regardless of the solvent/cleaner I’m using. But for baked on resin, like I get on the bottom of my 30mm sapphire CH DCup dish, I soak that in Simple Green Crystal and the baked on crud lifts off, pictures posted long ago in DCup thread. You can also find and download the product safety sheet, non toxic, etc.
 

PutOneInTheAir

E-nano, DynaVaps, v3pro, ROFFU
I didn’t use it on the Roffu, but it should be safe on most materials, certainly less aggressive than ISO. I tend to avoid soaking as much as possible regardless of the solvent/cleaner I’m using. But for baked on resin, like I get on the bottom of my 30mm sapphire CH DCup dish, I soak that in Simple Green Crystal and the baked on crud lifts off, pictures posted long ago in DCup thread. You can also find and download the product safety sheet, non toxic, etc.
Sounds like something I've been looking for.
I have such a diverse mixture of dynavat parts and glass pieces for this and that I just want one product that's safe to take care of one stop shop.

Have you found any negatives to using it on DynaVap Caps? Supposedly they're more finicky I know they don't like alcohol much got one of my caps to go way out tolerance from leaving it too long.

Much appreciated for sharing this info!
 
PutOneInTheAir,

RustyOldNail

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Sounds like something I've been looking for.
I have such a diverse mixture of dynavat parts and glass pieces for this and that I just want one product that's safe to take care of one stop shop.

Have you found any negatives to using it on DynaVap Caps? Supposedly they're more finicky I know they don't like alcohol much got one of my caps to go way out tolerance from leaving it too long.

Much appreciated for sharing this info!

Many incorrectly post that DV caps should not be soaked, but Dynavap actually has a video on their YouTube channel showing it. Linked below.
You are right, even my 99% ISO does nothing to the baked on resin on a DV cap. Since I bought a gallon of SGC, I use it undiluted for tiny part soaking. They don’t recommend heating it. I do several clean water washes, and let the DV tips dry out for 24 hours.



There is another more expensive product you could also try called Dark Crystal Clear, it’s reusable, safe, and works best when heated. I keep some in a small Ball glass jar, and heat on a coffee mug heater. Seal the jar and use again.

 

PutOneInTheAir

E-nano, DynaVaps, v3pro, ROFFU
Many incorrectly post that DV caps should not be soaked, but Dynavap actually has a video on their YouTube channel showing it. Linked below.
You are right, even my 99% ISO does nothing to the baked on resin on a DV cap. Since I bought a gallon of SGC, I use it undiluted for tiny part soaking. They don’t recommend heating it. I do several clean water washes, and let the DV tips dry out for 24 hours.



There is another more expensive product you could also try called Dark Crystal Clear, it’s reusable, safe, and works best when heated. I keep some in a small Ball glass jar, and heat on a coffee mug heater. Seal the jar and use again.

I'm going to give this a try All I'm really looking to do is have stuff to clean light reclaim buildup on my bonds and j hooks, DynaVap Caps and tips and condensers ectt.. I don't even let my stuff get bad so it's nothing ever crazy I try to always constantly stay on top of cleaning my stuff.

How long do you let your tips and caps soak for?

I also got hooked up I guess we won some kind of spin thing on prime so I got a $10 coupon so I paid $5 for 1 gallon of SGC
 
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