Discontinued ThermoVape
- Thread starter VaporBoxed
- Start date
OF
Well-Known Member
SF Giant said:
OTOH it's not realistic to wait for the battery to cool off all that much when the muse are upon you now is it? The battery gets warm, even hot in normal use and a bowl change calls for a battery change.....and pressing on for some folks. There's no way around it for several guys trying to share seems to me, we're in for some 'hot swapping'.
Should it become a real problem, I'm sure it will be resolved quickly and in keeping with the quality and service themes that have been shown so far......after the Revolution? Until then I'm sure I at least can struggle through.
Testing continues....work, work, work.
OF
Deadhead101
I am the Vapor King--I can do anything
I tested my unit yesterday and while I think this vape could be a winner, it's too early for me to determine. One serious concern I have that's been lightly mentioned is that the metal bowl gets very hot. I find that dumping the load into my hand in-between hits is helpful for even cooking. When I try to place the herb back into the chamber I get burnt on the metal. I never got a 'serious' burn, but it still hurts plenty. 
Moving forward, I think that perhaps some kind of tiny funnel would be a worthwhile tool for reloading herbs into a heated unit. Anybody have any other ideas for remedying this issue?
Moving forward, I think that perhaps some kind of tiny funnel would be a worthwhile tool for reloading herbs into a heated unit. Anybody have any other ideas for remedying this issue?
OhTheAgony
here for the chicks
Perhaps some sort of scoop would work too? Something similar like the one that comes with the Lotus perhaps?
OF
Well-Known Member
Deadhead101 said:I find that dumping the load into my hand in-between hits is helpful for even cooking. When I try to place the herb back into the chamber I get burnt on the metal. I never got a 'serious' burn, but it still hurts plenty.
Moving forward, I think that perhaps some kind of tiny funnel would be a worthwhile tool for reloading herbs into a heated unit. Anybody have any other ideas for remedying this issue?
I can't claim to have come up with it, another poster suggested the idea in a slightly different vein, but I found that dumping it out was OK (like you). Then after some playing around, dump it back into the cap. It's insulated, and cools fast. If the herb is ground fine enough it pours right back into the bowl from there, screw it on and you're good to go.
OF
Chance2Vape
VapulatrixonifierDlx
OF said:
Thanks for the feed back everyone; my problem is that when its spinning it often makes it difficult (or next to impossible) to quickly screw off the cap (to stir) and/or to swap out the batteries. At least while its warm anyway and it warms up relatively quickly.
OF
Well-Known Member
Chance2Vape said:
I can see how that could easily happen. I guess I sorta instinctively snugged the batter on tight enough so it doesn't spin first. I watched my stir and realized I was grabbing both center and lower sleeves. A work around perhaps, for a problem better solved in other ways.
I'm thinking if no 'fix' comes along in time, there's lots of stuff to try. Perhaps a bit of rosin (like pitchers use) might still hold when warm well enough? Or some fine shim of some sort, like talcum? In the end we could always boil the entire center section which could soften stuff and stretch the ID of the sleeve way out.
OF
Chance2Vape
VapulatrixonifierDlx
Does everyone else's white ceramic heater core slide freely up/down and make a slight clicking sound when it does so (w/o the battery compartment/switch mounted)??
OF
Well-Known Member
2clicker said:
I don't think so. I think it's like teflon and some of the others in that respect. Paints don't 'grab' well and no practical stuff can be put in to etch the surface enough to help 'prime' it.
OTOH, a light coat in just the right place on the outside of the heat core (engine or BBQ paint) might tighten it up just right?
Chance2Vape said:
The small diameter sleeve at the lower end (where the switch connects)? Yes, I recall mine did as well. Didn't seem to be an issue.
OF
PB88123
Vaporist
How I stir it now. I just flip the TV upside down so everything falls into the top cap. I then give it a few good shakes and then flip it back over.
I turned the TV upside down and then unscrewed the top cap and noticed it all fits into the top cap. I then put my thumb over the top cap and shook it and everything moved. So I am pretty sure if you flip the TV and shake it you should be able to get everything evenly vaped.
I turned the TV upside down and then unscrewed the top cap and noticed it all fits into the top cap. I then put my thumb over the top cap and shook it and everything moved. So I am pretty sure if you flip the TV and shake it you should be able to get everything evenly vaped.
OF
Well-Known Member
Agreed, guys, I too find it works fine with two qualifications. First it has to be partially filled and lose. Secondly, most (but not all) of the fine grind strains I've tried have enough moisture still left (and are sticky enough I figure) to steam themselves into a lump at first until they dry out. Unless I crumble this lump up mechanically it bakes hard. Same thing happens with MFLB using the same herb.
OF
OF
Love the discussion guys. Regarding the Delrin loosening when warm. We will shoot a video today addressing that issue. We will include some tips and tricks for loading and unloading a warm/hot bowl as well.
The Delrin design is a tradeoff. We want a device that you could replace any piece of if you needed to. It was tempting for us to permanently fix the Delrin to the device, but then it cannot be easily replaced.
What if we find a new material for the Delrin insulating sleeve down the road? We would much rather have our early adopters, you guys, who took the leap early, be able to get any upgrade we offer for the minimum cost of that single improved part.
We don't want to have to stick it to you and be like "if you want the new insulator you have to by a new device."
The device being modular, and able to be completely disassemble with out tools is a strength of a modular system. Everything we make will build off of the ThermoVape, it will be purpose built to improve and enhance the ThermoVape device. The ThermoVape is the foundation, the core technology, everything we do will build from it.
We view this as the ultimate value proposition to our customers. If you own a ThermoVape, you own the foundation. We are committed to building off that foundation. This is part of our core philosophy. Remember we make every part, finish and assemble them by hand, here in California. The ThermoVape is an enormous investment and effort on our part. Unlike building devices where the parts may be sourced over seas (where it is cheap enough to start from scratch with a new and improved whatever), we have committed to our in house technology and manufacturing.
That commitment will benefit you guys, as everything we do will build from the ThermoVape.
Cheers,
ThermoVape
The Delrin design is a tradeoff. We want a device that you could replace any piece of if you needed to. It was tempting for us to permanently fix the Delrin to the device, but then it cannot be easily replaced.
What if we find a new material for the Delrin insulating sleeve down the road? We would much rather have our early adopters, you guys, who took the leap early, be able to get any upgrade we offer for the minimum cost of that single improved part.
We don't want to have to stick it to you and be like "if you want the new insulator you have to by a new device."
The device being modular, and able to be completely disassemble with out tools is a strength of a modular system. Everything we make will build off of the ThermoVape, it will be purpose built to improve and enhance the ThermoVape device. The ThermoVape is the foundation, the core technology, everything we do will build from it.
We view this as the ultimate value proposition to our customers. If you own a ThermoVape, you own the foundation. We are committed to building off that foundation. This is part of our core philosophy. Remember we make every part, finish and assemble them by hand, here in California. The ThermoVape is an enormous investment and effort on our part. Unlike building devices where the parts may be sourced over seas (where it is cheap enough to start from scratch with a new and improved whatever), we have committed to our in house technology and manufacturing.
That commitment will benefit you guys, as everything we do will build from the ThermoVape.
Cheers,
ThermoVape
2clicker
Observer
OF said:
you are correct. after a brief consultation with google it seems that delrin cant be painted and that the paint would easily flake off when scraped or rubbed. so in this case painting is out of the question. however there are reports of people dyeing delrin with good results. i would assume only the white can be dyed.
your idea on shimming the heat core is interesting.
i would also like to know if there are any plans on some sort of power adapter for the unit itself? or possibly a dif unit in the works? this thing look great, but would love to have the option of power source.
Egzoset
Banned
Hello,
Since modularity seems to be a key feature of the present design i suppose there will be alternate "Thermal Core" (nichrome heater) and ""Main Body" (battery holder) modules available in the future, correct?
The "Radial Gap" in the airpath sure was most appropriate to the tool-less assembly feature, in any case.
Since modularity seems to be a key feature of the present design i suppose there will be alternate "Thermal Core" (nichrome heater) and ""Main Body" (battery holder) modules available in the future, correct?
The "Radial Gap" in the airpath sure was most appropriate to the tool-less assembly feature, in any case.
OF
Well-Known Member
2clicker said:
Dyeing generally doesn't change the size of the part very much, no joy there I think. Although you can generally die stuff darker, black is already there (absorbs all colors), dyeing the white is the only option we have.
Thanks, but it's an obvious solution. Let's hope we don't need it? I'm finding no trouble if I grasp the center and lower sections to screw the top off, and likewise hold the top two for battery changes. That may change.
I'm sure there are such plans, aren't you? Not to worry, if it's too long in coming even I can cobble up a 30 watt supply and insert to replace the battery tube. You don't even need to mess with fancy parts (like replacing the lower assembly) or modifying the gear you have, the modest cable can be brought out the front window can't it? Unlike the MFLB's requirements, this one will work on a simple transformer. Since the resistance of NiChrome elements change a fair bit some 'smart temperature control' might be possible. Nothing fancy, but a cut above a simple dimmer scheme. But I'm confident I won't have to, TV is sure to do a better job in the proper time frame. Which is, of course, after the Revolution.
Chance2Vape said:
So, going back to this, yes the insulator/heat shield does indeed slide freely. What's more, if you're bent that way (and I am) you can carefully unthreaded it and take it off. Feel for the threads in the down position, it takes a couple of turns then falls free. Then you have to put it back. Some well done stuff in there to admire, again if 'it your thing'.
OF
2clicker said:
In the works. At the early, early, early (did I say early?) stages of development. That said, we are pretty confident that sometime in the not to distant future you will be able to run your thermovape from a USB port.
Cheers,
ThermoVape
biojuggernaut
Snob
ThermoVape said:
This is when I sign up.. . .
pecosthecat
Well-Known Member
An accessory allowing the running of the ThermoVape from USB or electrical mains would really be fantastic.
OF
Well-Known Member
ThermoVape said:
Oh, yeah? You're gonna get thirty Watts from a five Watt port? Two and a half Watts for early version ports. Not only is my hat off to you, but lunch is on me.
After that, we all get rich I'm thinking..... Really, really rich.
abo27495 said:
Actually, I think that that's what's happening....only more so. As a class, the 'LiPo' batteries outperform LiIon versions (which I guess is why we find them in the latest laptops and electric cars). More over, the particular LiPo TV is using is the best of the lot.
So the short answer is 'nothing, but they wouldn't do as well as the ones being used now'. Or so I think?
IMO they did their homework, we'll have to wait on further developments in batteries or the unit itself.
OF
nowonknows
Well-Known Member
received my units on Friday (TV I sent you an email with regards to freight details if you could please reply), There are a lot of user variables with this device so some details may help buyers/future buyers with getting the most out of it.
With the delrin sleeves, they spin freely on the heater section on my units as with all from the sounds of it. When screwing sections together if no force is used and you only gently do them up until the point that they do not go any further and do not use any force to torque them together, you will find it easy to pull sections apart to replace batteries and load even when hot.
Now to use.
I tried this out a few times before even reading the instructions, I wasn't happy with vapor production after allowing it to heat up for 5-10 seconds so I let it warm up for longer periods first (20-30 seconds), this is not a good idea and results in some combustion and reduced battery life per cycle. It only takes 5-10 seconds for the element to reach required temps then relies on air flow (users draw) to transfer heat from the element to the herb allowing the herb to get to vaporizing temp. So allow the unit to pre-heat for 5-10 seconds then draw slowly until you can taste vapor/feel it in the back of your throat, then slow increase rate of inhalation for the duration of your hit. This can take some practice to get right, but once you get the hang of things, thick tasty combustion free clouds are easily achieved, leaving the unit to heat longer then suggested only introduces more conduction heating and reduces number of hits per battery change out.
Stirring
This is essential to getting as much as you can from your herb and leaving your abv an even color. I have found the easiest way to do this is to simply unscrew the cap most of the way (unscrew completely then screw back on between a quarter to a half turns), hold the heater section and cap together between thumb and finger, then shake. After a quick shake screw the cap back down to it's closed position while holding the device upright, as the inner disc inside the cap seals down ontop of the bowl when screwed together this ensures the herb is packed back down into the bowl. I do this between every hit and am getting around 10 decent cloudy hits to a load/battery change with perfectly even brown abv.
Before using this method I tried as others suggested with tipping it into my hand, breaking it up a bit and returning to the bowl, I would not suggest this myself as some partials seem to fall into the heater section and introduces the combustion taste.
Grind and Load size
For myself I find it best to use a single grind through a 4 piece grinder, then fill the bowl completely but without packing it down at all. The courser grind eliminates the problem of combustion of finer partials and the filling method allows the above mentioned stirring/shaking method to work well.
Taste
For the last 6-8 months my main vape has been an LSV used with a water pipe, anyone with experience using this setup would realize I have been spoilt as far as taste goes, nothing comes close to an all glass setup for flavor, using an ssv or eq direct or through water just doesn't come close due to the silicone tubing.
When I decided to try the TV I felt due to it's design (not glass) I would be compromising on flavor. My thoughts were I would be willing to do this for a portable, The pure clean taste provided by the LSV is now a must for me when it comes to a home vape, but for a portable durability, speed of use and stealth design are higher on the list, compromising on taste for these sections wasn't an issue for me.
My first impression of the taste of vapor produce from the TV were similar to that of the Iolite, nothing impressive but satisfactory for a portable. After learning how to use it properly I cleaned the mouth piece and now the flavor is for me on par with all glass designs. I don't know if initial poor quality in flavor is a result of the device needing a clean before use or as a result from my initial misuse of the TV, either way if you are not getting the cleanest tasting vape from it clean the top cap section and mouth piece.
Water Pipe Use
Using the long mouth piece provided, cut a 1/4" piece of whip tubing and push it on flush with the end of the mouth piece, this will allow it to seal in a 14mm glass downpipe without introducing the silicone tube used to the vapor path. This only works with the long mouth piece, the shorter one does not extend long enough to create a seal, you could use a longer piece of silicone tube but this will then be introduced to the vapor path and effect taste. I tried this after cleaning the cap and mouth piece as mentioned above, the flavor was on par with my LSV, I could not pick the difference and would be surprised if anyone else could. Cloud production is on par with my old EQ, but not as thick as the LSV, I'd say given the heat up time required and the design of the TV it really did exceed expectations in this area. I seem to be using the TV with my water pipe when I just want one or two quick hits, or sometimes for a couple of hits while waiting for the LSV to get to temp, a power supply would be a great idea for this type of use.
Heat
A few people have mentioned this as a bit of an issue with the battery slide getting quite hot to the touch, I also found this to be the case at first when using the TV incorrectly. Once working out required heat up times and draw technique I have found the radiant heat of the unit to be less of an issue. For myself there is a 20-30 second pause between hits while I hold in the previous hit and give the TV a stir/shake, with this short pause between hits the device doesn't get too hot to use. If you are finding the battery slide is getting too hot to use, you need to work on your technique, possibly reduce pre-heat time and adjust inhalation method, it only takes one inhalation to get nice a nice cloudy lungful, if you are taking a first lungful and getting nothing then taking another directly after to get visible vapor it will reduce hits per battery charge and increase radiant heat.
Over all I am quite happy with the purchase of the TV, or at least will be once an issue relating to freight cost and method on my order are resolved, I will provide further details on this once I hear back from Thermovape as how it is handled will determine if there was an honest mistake or a dishonest company. If you want a personal vaporizer that can be easily taken anywhere, tastes fantastic, durable and discreet, this is where you want to look, if you want something that is suited to use with multiple people, more cordless then truly portable, then there are probably other options more suited. But again, for a true portable vaporizer I couldn't recommend any other on the market over the TV.
I would like to see a power supply option (if not will make my own) But the idea of a usb supply doesn't sound ideal. USB 2.0 has an output of less then 5 watts, if this were to be utilized as a supply for the heater, technique and use would be very different to when used with the batteries. I would rather see a 110-240vac primary - 6vdc 5amp secondary power supply with use of a button (or slide) to provide power to the heater only while in use.
With the delrin sleeves, they spin freely on the heater section on my units as with all from the sounds of it. When screwing sections together if no force is used and you only gently do them up until the point that they do not go any further and do not use any force to torque them together, you will find it easy to pull sections apart to replace batteries and load even when hot.
Now to use.
I tried this out a few times before even reading the instructions, I wasn't happy with vapor production after allowing it to heat up for 5-10 seconds so I let it warm up for longer periods first (20-30 seconds), this is not a good idea and results in some combustion and reduced battery life per cycle. It only takes 5-10 seconds for the element to reach required temps then relies on air flow (users draw) to transfer heat from the element to the herb allowing the herb to get to vaporizing temp. So allow the unit to pre-heat for 5-10 seconds then draw slowly until you can taste vapor/feel it in the back of your throat, then slow increase rate of inhalation for the duration of your hit. This can take some practice to get right, but once you get the hang of things, thick tasty combustion free clouds are easily achieved, leaving the unit to heat longer then suggested only introduces more conduction heating and reduces number of hits per battery change out.
Stirring
This is essential to getting as much as you can from your herb and leaving your abv an even color. I have found the easiest way to do this is to simply unscrew the cap most of the way (unscrew completely then screw back on between a quarter to a half turns), hold the heater section and cap together between thumb and finger, then shake. After a quick shake screw the cap back down to it's closed position while holding the device upright, as the inner disc inside the cap seals down ontop of the bowl when screwed together this ensures the herb is packed back down into the bowl. I do this between every hit and am getting around 10 decent cloudy hits to a load/battery change with perfectly even brown abv.
Before using this method I tried as others suggested with tipping it into my hand, breaking it up a bit and returning to the bowl, I would not suggest this myself as some partials seem to fall into the heater section and introduces the combustion taste.
Grind and Load size
For myself I find it best to use a single grind through a 4 piece grinder, then fill the bowl completely but without packing it down at all. The courser grind eliminates the problem of combustion of finer partials and the filling method allows the above mentioned stirring/shaking method to work well.
Taste
For the last 6-8 months my main vape has been an LSV used with a water pipe, anyone with experience using this setup would realize I have been spoilt as far as taste goes, nothing comes close to an all glass setup for flavor, using an ssv or eq direct or through water just doesn't come close due to the silicone tubing.
When I decided to try the TV I felt due to it's design (not glass) I would be compromising on flavor. My thoughts were I would be willing to do this for a portable, The pure clean taste provided by the LSV is now a must for me when it comes to a home vape, but for a portable durability, speed of use and stealth design are higher on the list, compromising on taste for these sections wasn't an issue for me.
My first impression of the taste of vapor produce from the TV were similar to that of the Iolite, nothing impressive but satisfactory for a portable. After learning how to use it properly I cleaned the mouth piece and now the flavor is for me on par with all glass designs. I don't know if initial poor quality in flavor is a result of the device needing a clean before use or as a result from my initial misuse of the TV, either way if you are not getting the cleanest tasting vape from it clean the top cap section and mouth piece.
Water Pipe Use
Using the long mouth piece provided, cut a 1/4" piece of whip tubing and push it on flush with the end of the mouth piece, this will allow it to seal in a 14mm glass downpipe without introducing the silicone tube used to the vapor path. This only works with the long mouth piece, the shorter one does not extend long enough to create a seal, you could use a longer piece of silicone tube but this will then be introduced to the vapor path and effect taste. I tried this after cleaning the cap and mouth piece as mentioned above, the flavor was on par with my LSV, I could not pick the difference and would be surprised if anyone else could. Cloud production is on par with my old EQ, but not as thick as the LSV, I'd say given the heat up time required and the design of the TV it really did exceed expectations in this area. I seem to be using the TV with my water pipe when I just want one or two quick hits, or sometimes for a couple of hits while waiting for the LSV to get to temp, a power supply would be a great idea for this type of use.
Heat
A few people have mentioned this as a bit of an issue with the battery slide getting quite hot to the touch, I also found this to be the case at first when using the TV incorrectly. Once working out required heat up times and draw technique I have found the radiant heat of the unit to be less of an issue. For myself there is a 20-30 second pause between hits while I hold in the previous hit and give the TV a stir/shake, with this short pause between hits the device doesn't get too hot to use. If you are finding the battery slide is getting too hot to use, you need to work on your technique, possibly reduce pre-heat time and adjust inhalation method, it only takes one inhalation to get nice a nice cloudy lungful, if you are taking a first lungful and getting nothing then taking another directly after to get visible vapor it will reduce hits per battery charge and increase radiant heat.
Over all I am quite happy with the purchase of the TV, or at least will be once an issue relating to freight cost and method on my order are resolved, I will provide further details on this once I hear back from Thermovape as how it is handled will determine if there was an honest mistake or a dishonest company. If you want a personal vaporizer that can be easily taken anywhere, tastes fantastic, durable and discreet, this is where you want to look, if you want something that is suited to use with multiple people, more cordless then truly portable, then there are probably other options more suited. But again, for a true portable vaporizer I couldn't recommend any other on the market over the TV.
I would like to see a power supply option (if not will make my own) But the idea of a usb supply doesn't sound ideal. USB 2.0 has an output of less then 5 watts, if this were to be utilized as a supply for the heater, technique and use would be very different to when used with the batteries. I would rather see a 110-240vac primary - 6vdc 5amp secondary power supply with use of a button (or slide) to provide power to the heater only while in use.