Discontinued ThermoVape

[MacNcheesePLZ]

I've actually seen this in one of the longer ecig Ava videos they put out. They show it loading a single red battery. Not sure of the actual specs though.
Wonder why the bottom is like that?

 

[Pipes]

Hey everyone!

We had a blast up in Seattle through the weekend! We are working on a blog with pictures and whatnot to share to everyone how we did.

Here's a teaser on our way home through Norcal

Enjoy!

Tim

Is it my imagination or is that inner sleeve a bit wider and delrin a bit thinner? Maybe hold a 18650?
Leads to what's on top.

And is the guy with the ox waving hello or god-bye?


Pipes

 

[chant121]

Received my Power supply today, and my o my how this PA makes vaping on this thing so much more forgiving, am able to take alot more hits ! using through an octobong bubbler - luke wilson copy..., soo tasty..

 

[Dangus]

Here's a teaser on our way home through Norcal

A tease to be sure! The shorter window makes another appearance...and is that some sort of button on the bottom?!

Quit playin with our emotions Tim!

 

[OF]

I've actually seen this in one of the longer ecig Ava videos they put out. They show it loading a single red battery. Not sure of the actual specs though.
Wonder why the bottom is like that?

Oh, I don't know. You don't suppose it's been modified to take 18650s like we've been asking for do you?

And I'm sure the button on the bottom would have noting at all to do with complaints that 'we need a better way for folks with hand strength problems to actuate it', aren't you? I mean, it would need a lock or something too, right?

OF

 

[Futuretvowner]

what would the battery life on a 18650 look like compared to current t1 batts.

 

[jambandphan03]

Dang! you mean getting sick made it so I couldn't test a new TV product?? Damn YOU sinus attack... btw I am still down with it, and ready for this to stop. Moved into my lungs, and now I can't vape. Gonna have to resort to tinctures today. Dang!! Oh well... such is life.

 

[Nick Again]

Dang! you mean getting sick made it so I couldn't test a new TV product?? Damn YOU sinus attack... btw I am still down with it, and ready for this to stop. Moved into my lungs, and now I can't vape. Gonna have to resort to tinctures today. Dang!! Oh well... such is life.

Off topic, but...

Jam,

Since you make your own concentrates, I'm curious what you use for tincture. I make an Everclear tincture out of hash, which I assay (I make the "raw" stuff just over 10% THC) and then dilute to 5% with PG - close to Sativex or Gold Mist (but I use mint, not cinnamon and it costs a fraction of the price) and use as "breath spray" - extremely discrete and acts in about 5 minutes.

Do you make your own? What method do you use? I use very slow (weeks or months in a pressure vessel, warmed to 70-80C so that the EtOH will catalyze the THCA->THC decarboxylation) extraction - It is the simplest method I know of, though it requires patience.
I consume most of my medicine orally or buccally - I only inhale because I like to get high (and my doctors know it - and "put up" with this old hippie since I'm already consuming such large amounts of THC - AND it seems to work ).

-NDA

 

[jambandphan03]

I did a VG (vegetable glycerin) tinc, using herb, kif, and hash. Used a slow heat up to about 180f then let it cool (double boiler style so I wouldn't scorch it) and did this for about 2 weeks(daily). Then after filtering the plant material out w/ a coffee press, I spun it in a centrifuge to separate out the waxy plant contaminants, and ended up with a nice clean, dark amber VG liquid. Originally was making it to try to use w/ ecigs, so I crammed about as much thc as I could in there, but discovered after wasting a bunch of it in ecigs that it was much more effective and potent as an oral tinc. so I have been finishing off what is left of my supply this way for the last couple of years, storing it in the fridge. Also good to apply topically to skin, when I have any kind of bump/rash/sore/pimple etc... it's great for many uses. Only need 3-4 drops under the tongue to get a good strong effect from it, and the VG is pleasant, sweet, doesn't burn.

 

[darkrom]

Tim, you've spilled the beans with that pic IMO. You know what teasers I really like...words and specs

The one thing you might actually comment on (i know secrets have to happen and I get it) is if we can use the new base on our current T1. 18650 = buy new handle with a smile on my face. Buying a whole new vape, that seems to go against the modular way of the T1.


Suddenly this tenergy blowout makes sense. I sort of thought that would be the only reason to discount them, but really its win win. If the 18650 comes out I'd never be "pissed" that I "wasted" cash or something. I've been using a great vape, and its only getting better. Not only that, but I'm sure I'll probably upgrade to the 18650 right off the bat, but its not like this handle and collection of tenergys is going to waste. Members will be selling the "outdated" handle so cheap and you can just have a spare for the car ETC. I know a big bag of tenergys in the car is quite fine by me since I have a place to store them. No real disadvantage other than 10 seconds to swap batteries after each bowl. Where the 18650 comes into play is when I'm out and not near my car. Hikes and pretty much anywhere where storage is limited to your pockets these will shine.


Since TV will not and rightfully should not comment on how many bowls per battery a 18650 would get I'm going to ask Pipes, OF and really anyone who wants to take an EDUCATED guess. Thermovape won't want to comment about it, but you guys can make a guess. No one will hold you to anything. I feel like back in the day we talked about this, but I'll have to look. Are we talking like 3 bowls per charge? Keep in mind I'm assuming this is the same T1 with 30w heater I'm referring to.

 

[OF]

Tim, you've spilled the beans with that pic IMO. You know what teasers I really like...words and specs

The one thing you might actually comment on (i know secrets have to happen and I get it) is if we can use the new base on our current T1. 18650 = buy new handle with a smile on my face. Buying a whole new vape, that seems to go against the modular way of the T1.

I'm not Tim, but yes, it works with all the current TV stuff.....of course. It is a true modular system......

OF

 

[darkrom]

I'm not Tim, but yes, it works with all the current TV stuff.....of course. It is a true modular system......

OF

I remember hearing this and know it to be true, yet the anxiety in me wants to see it in writing anyway. I'll be honest though if I had to buy a T2 complete I still would, since the T1 has served me well at the $250 retail price I still think it is worth it. My friend got one on amazon for like $120 because it is white and maybe those sold less? I don't know, but even paying double I don't feel ripped off. He didn't rush and ended up paying less, but I got to enjoy the vape for months longer while his portable was less than desirable.

So far every product TV creates is a win win in my book, and I don't think that because something better comes out that is negative. Those people must REALLY hate technology in general with that attitude.

I'd say for me the only downsides to thermovape products have been that I keep killing myself on shipping due to poor purchase timing on my part, and that they are not butt swap proof

 

[OF]

Since TV will not and rightfully should not comment on how many bowls per battery a 18650 would get I'm going to ask Pipes, OF and really anyone who wants to take an EDUCATED guess. Thermovape won't want to comment about it, but you guys can make a guess. No one will hold you to anything. I feel like back in the day we talked about this, but I'll have to look. Are we talking like 3 bowls per charge? Keep in mind I'm assuming this is the same T1 with 30w heater I'm referring to.

So the RCR123As are actually delivering about 500 mAh at these currents (or so I recall measuring), so I'd expect the 2000 mAh AW IMRs to deliver a little over twice the time (remember, lower voltage so more current will be needed). I think 3 bowls per charge "is not unreasonable" to expect. That's what I'll be looking for when I get mine (I've got the battery right here waiting....). There are a couple of interesting protected 18650s I've got kicking around that might triple it (or more), making four easily possible.

BTW, TV 'tipped their hand' a while back. Check out the infamous second (or was it third?) video they posted a few weeks back, it was in the background. I also understand it was shown in a AVA video about the same time. Noah has been having a bit of a laugh with us it seems.....as is his right. Hey, long as the good stuff keeps coming, who's gonna object?

OF

 

[Nic]

Just got in a fun new order and I have a quick couple questions for the pros: Will there be a noticeable difference in performance between 14500s with 600mAh vs 750mAh? Also, are the PTFE mouthpieces still supposed to be slightly off-white? I ordered a PTFE UFO to go with an Evo core and the UFO I received is pure white. I don't mind the color of course, I'm just want to make sure its the softer/higher temperature material that I had hoped.

Sidenote: Alpha Ultra + Dart is an awesome combo!

EDIT: This mouthpiece is definitely the PTFE. Compared it to a black delrin mouthpiece I forgot I had and it is noticeably softer. Glad it's whiter than my monitor makes it look in the pics. Nice and clean.

 

[Norlin]

Unfortunately this happened today:

I've had a real fiasco with this thing lately...

I haven't been able to get it going recently, it stopped working very mysteriously two weeks ago, I tested it with my bowls, and neither worked. This led me to think the switch was the problem. So I had it replaced, and it still didn't work. So thinking that I had failed to screw the bowl down all the way, I attempted to tighten it with my pliars until it wouldn't move anymore. Tried to fire it up again, no dice. So I tried to unscrew it so I could again try my spare bowl, and it looked like it was coming out, so I kept twisting but instead I just pulled it from the brass lower. A coil fell out.

So now I'm freaking the hell out. I tried to remove it by grabbing the brass but it's so soft it just bends, so I stopped. It's not badly deformed yet.

someone...please help me, I'm going nuts.

 

[Fully Melted]

<---- Wants to order a 18650 powered TV RIGHT NOW! (please, please)

 

[OF]

So I tried to unscrew it so I could again try my spare bowl, and it looked like it was coming out, so I kept twisting but instead I just pulled it from the brass lower. A coil fell out.

So now I'm freaking the hell out. I tried to remove it by grabbing the brass but it's so soft it just bends, so I stopped. It's not badly deformed yet.

someone...please help me, I'm going nuts.

Don't panic. You just separated the core into it's two halves. You managed to twist one end (the top) without the bottom following. Probably from having jammed the fine brass threads on the connector into the plated threads in the body. You can probably use an 'easy out' or similar "broken screw extractor" to pull the lower part out, but the threads in the female part of the body could be distorted enough (they're aluminum under the plating) that it's not going to work well without 'chasing' the threads with the right size tap.

Much better to just contact TV, they can no doubt fix it, but replacement is probably a lot easier and more sure. I'd return it all (core, pieces, switch not the battery tube, cap and so on) and have them test it out as a unit. Don't loose the ceramic cores, they are quite expensive actually, perhaps the most expensive part of the assembly?

If I was a betting man I'd say they'll cover it under warranty, worst case I bet you're going to be the first guy for the $15 rebuild.....if you don't loose the cores.

In the future, it should not need to be more than snug. Since the switch floats even if a little loose it'll still work. I lube the ring with a tiny bit of PG or even vegetable oil and run it down 'finger tip tight'. You can tell from the flange coming down on the threaded mouth when you're there. I would not use tools, even to disassemble. FWIW I wrap a few heavy rubber bands in the Vee below the rim and above the flange to give a grip.

Good luck.

OF

 

[DreamTime]

Unfortunately this happened today:

So now I'm freaking the hell out. I tried to remove it by grabbing the brass but it's so soft it just bends, so I stopped. It's not badly deformed yet.

someone...please help me, I'm going nuts.

Relax, take a deep breath, and tell yourself it's going to be okay.
I know the feeling. I damaged my first T1 bowl trying to dissemble it, but the good folks at ThermoVape can sell you any part that you've managed to destroy

If you can manage to tap out what's left of the core, you can just purchase a replacement core for $55 (less the current 25% discount). If you've cannot get the bottom half of the core out, then you'll probably need to get a new bowl and an interface assembly. Either way, it's all fixable.

 

[SameOldTim]

Unfortunately this happened today:

I've had a real fiasco with this thing lately...

I haven't been able to get it going recently, it stopped working very mysteriously two weeks ago, I tested it with my bowls, and neither worked. This led me to think the switch was the problem. So I had it replaced, and it still didn't work. So thinking that I had failed to screw the bowl down all the way, I attempted to tighten it with my pliars until it wouldn't move anymore. Tried to fire it up again, no dice. So I tried to unscrew it so I could again try my spare bowl, and it looked like it was coming out, so I kept twisting but instead I just pulled it from the brass lower. A coil fell out.

So now I'm freaking the hell out. I tried to remove it by grabbing the brass but it's so soft it just bends, so I stopped. It's not badly deformed yet.

someone...please help me, I'm going nuts.

Shoot us an e-mail at sales@thermovape.com and we can get you a new one sent out.



Also we FINALLY got more glass in!!! no 18G yet however... This will get us all current with all glass orders (other than 18G) and we will have some left in stock! WOOT!!

You will start seeing your mouthpieces and 14G adapters showing up early next week.

Cheers,

Tim

 

[UpUpandAway]

Shoot us an e-mail at sales@thermovape.com and we can get you a new one sent out.



Also we FINALLY got more glass in!!! no 18G yet however... This will get us all current with all glass orders (other than 18G) and we will have some left in stock! WOOT!!

You will start seeing your mouthpieces and 14G adapters showing up early next week.

Cheers,

Tim

Hey Tim,

Have you received more of the AC Power Supply kits?

 

[SameOldTim]

Hey Tim,

Have you received more of the AC Power Supply kits?

Not yet, we are working on a new supplier to have them more readily available.

Cheers,

Tim

 

[NoName]

Not yet, we are working on a new supplier to have them more readily available.

Cheers,

Tim

Tim,

Is a LV PA in our near future? Would love to fire up my LV EVO, REV, DART (and future T2?) with one.

Mahalo, NoName

 

[Nick Again]

Tim,

Is a LV PA in our near future? Would love to fire up my LV EVO, REV, DART (and future T2?) with one.

Mahalo, NoName

I think that the scarcity of the already announced SV PAs shows that not much is easily available in power supplies that can deliver the current needed. So far TV seems to be seeking a one-piece COTS solution. Unfortunately not much is available in high current supplies at either 4v (or 4,2v) or for 6v (or 6.4). If you REALLY want something right away, many Mastech switchers can do want you want for about $100US.

If TV were willing to consider a "middle box", there are lots of high current output supplies for both 9 and 12 volts: Together with something like a Murata OKR/T6 or OKR/T10, this could provide3 the power (but with a BOM approaching $15). For any DIY'rs (Pipes, are you there ), this could provide a cheap switchable (4.x or 6.x volt) source. (Of course, so far, TV doesn't do any in-house electronics, just electrical engineering AFAIK.)

Also the same "middle box" would function as a DC->DC car adapter too (e.g. for cars), given the correct plugs/connectors.

If this is way off, another possibility is laptop computer supplies - Most are 60-00 watts and available inexpensively (i.e. $30US or less) and can provide enough 12 volts (usually 6 Amps peak) to step down (still a "middle box"). (oh, and some older supplies are 4.5 volts and might not need any changes, but ABIK, these are obsolete)

-NDA

 

[Pipes]

Sounds like too much work to me. Definitely agree an out of the box 4 or 6 Volt solution are hard to find at the needed current levels.
I really love that OKR you mentioned. Googled it and looks great, very small, and best thing is that it looks like no heat sink required? Am I seeing that right? A micro DC-DC converter. Only thing that kind of scares me is the upper input voltage states 14 V max and cars can get up to 15 V at times. Can not find any descriptions stating good for automobiles. Anyone interested I found a 30 Watt version here.
Under $10 too.

Thanks NDA,

Pipes

 

[Nick Again]

Sounds like too much work to me. Definitely agree an out of the box 4 or 6 Volt solution are hard to find at the needed current levels.
I really love that OKR you mentioned. Googled it and looks great, very small, and best thing is that it looks like no heat sink required? Am I seeing that right? A micro DC-DC converter. Only thing that kind of scares me is the upper input voltage states 14 V max and cars can get up to 15 V at times. Can not find any descriptions stating good for automobiles. Anyone interested I found a 30 Watt version here.
Under $10 too.

Thanks NDA,

Pipes

I believe it does need a heat sink running above 3Amps - I'd have to check the PDF. But, IIRC, it uses a cheap TO-220 sink, so as small or as large as you like and just for pennies. I've seen the 6A versions used (by hobbyists, not in commercial gear) for >3A 9v in automobile apps (and your car alternator _shouldn't_ get above 13.8v for very long) with no sink

BTW. There are many flavors - I'm pretty sure at least a few models which can take up to 24 or 26 volt inputs (with the same <= 10v out).
-NDA