Discontinued ThermoVape

[Pipes]

Thanks confuse me more

I'm good at that.

 

[PB88123]

Ok straight up ,
The T1 or the evo ? ( for herbs )
Which one would you recommend ?
And why the difference in price ?

I'm very close to making it happen

Thanx all .

Not sure if I ever read why the price difference. I'm guessing more material / the process in making it.

I've seen some people buy both and end up liking the T1 more. The T1 has a bigger bowl so you can take 8 hits, change the batteries and get more hits. With the EVO you take 7-8 hits, put in new herb and take another 7-8 hits then change the battery. Since I use it on the go the bigger bowl comes in handy.

If you buy the T1, what's nice is you can just buy the EVO 6v core and screw it into the T1 and put a mouthpiece directly into the EVO core and vape away. Then unscrew it and put back in the T1 core. It might look a little funny but works and you get the no stir and around 15 hits so you can get 2 bowls off 1 battery. You can also buy the shield to go over the core so you won't accidently burn yourself. Here is how it looks.

I thought if you get the glass mouth piece it helps with not having to mix.

You'll have to wait for someone who has one to chime in but from what I read there is better airflow so it gets cooked more evenly so you only need to stir it 1 or 2 times.

Thanks confuse me more

Sounds like you need a personal helper to decide what will work best for you.

 

[Pipes]

The billing address must be the same as credit card information. If shipping address is different, it will be declined. There should be a place to have shipping different then billing address. By default the gui will make them the same.
Pipes

Yeah,i understand the principle. At first i tried checking out with a different shipping address than my billing address (my workplace) as i had the option to do so. But as soon as i submited my credit card number i got a message telling me there was a mismatch. I then tried again but this time with the same billing/shipping address option but with the same result. Tried it twice again and gave up...


UPDATE: I tried it again with a different credit card and this time it worked. I don't know what happened earlier... I hope i won't get busted at customs!

Thank you Pipes for your help.

Just to clarify. Billing address is where the credit card bill is mailed to or registered to. Shipping address can be anywhere you want. I can give you my address if you like and I'll take the heat from customs...

Pipes

 

[Dreamerr]

Not sure if I ever read why the price difference. I'm guessing more material / the process in making it.

I've seen some people buy both and end up liking the T1 more. The T1 has a bigger bowl so you can take 8 hits, change the batteries and get more hits. With the EVO you take 7-8 hits, put in new herb and take another 7-8 hits then change the battery. Since I use it on the go the bigger bowl comes in handy.

If you buy the T1, what's nice is you can just buy the EVO 6v core and screw it into the T1 and put a mouthpiece directly into the EVO core and vape away. Then unscrew it and put back in the T1 core. It might look a little funny but works and you get the no stir and around 15 hits so you can get 2 bowls off 1 battery. You can also buy the shield to go over the core so you won't accidently burn yourself. Here is how it looks.

You'll have to wait for someone who has one to chime in but from what I read there is better airflow so it gets cooked more evenly so you only need to stir it 1 or 2 times.



Sounds like you need a personal helper to decide what will work best for you.

That is exactly what I need a personal shopper/helper.

Why would Canada stop vapes at customs? I thought smoking in general was legal and certainly vapes are or so I thought.

 

[ugobo]

Why would Canada stop vapes at customs? I thought smoking in general was legal and certainly vapes are or so I thought.[/quote]


I'm not worrying about that at all. What i'm worrying about is the $60+ declared value. Canada Customs can charge you administration fees and Canadian taxes,federal and provincial. That Canada Customs process can take up to five days.

I do mail business for more than 25 years and i had bad experiences with them robbers without any coherence in their parameters. Sometime i would get caught for a $15 made in usa cd ordered from the US and sometime i will get away with a $80 dvd order... Where is the free exchange they are talking about?!!!

 

[poonman]

Thanx PB88123 ,
That's the ticket
The T1 has a bigger bowl ...ding, ding , ding ... getting closer .
I plan on getting the PA also because I like having long sessions on weekends . ( up to 2 hours )

Which one gets hot in your hands faster/worst after straight usage ?
To the point where you might have to rest it and use another vape ?

Hey Dreamerr
" Why would Canada stop vapes at customs? I thought smoking in general was legal and certainly vapes are or so I thought."

I received my Solo last month from Puffitup.com out of Cali. with no problems .
The only thing I didn't like was the package was just left outside my door .
Anyone could have scooped it up in front of my house !
I'm positive , it wasn't my regular Postal guy .
He would not do that , I think it's against Canadian Postal procedures .
I hope that helps .

Why would Canada stop vapes at customs? I thought smoking in general was legal and certainly vapes are or so I thought.

I'm not worrying about that at all. What i'm worrying about is the $60+ declared value. Canada Customs can charge you administration fees and Canadian taxes,federal and provincial. That Canada Customs process can take up to five days.

I do mail business for more than 25 years and i had bad experiences with them robbers without any coherence in their parameters. Sometime i would get caught for a $15 made in usa cd ordered from the US and sometime i will get away with a $80 dvd order... Where is the free exchange they are talking about?!!![/quote]

Wow ,
That's messed up !
I have to admit , It was my first time doing cross border online shopping , when I bought the Solo .
I hope it wasn't a first time lucky thingy , because , well obviously I want to shop some more .
Now ,
I am still waiting for my NO2 battery and screens from Vapeworld . ( going on 3rd week waiting )

 

[Dreamerr]

Agreed customs is messed up.

 

[PB88123]

That is exactly what I need a personal shopper/helper.

If you are set on a ThermoVape product we can help you figure out if you want to go with a T1 or Evolution 6v or LV. Someone or me will lay it out for you in an easy to read way so you can pick what items to purchase (just let us know in a post). If you want more reading material here is the summer catalog http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0106/8282/files/ThermoVape_Vaporizers_Summer_Catalog_2012.pdf?3694

Thanx PB88123 ,
That's the ticket
The T1 has a bigger bowl ...ding, ding , ding ... getting closer .
I plan on getting the PA also because I like having long sessions on weekends . ( up to 2 hours )

Which one gets hot in your hands faster/worst after straight usage ?
To the point where you might have to rest it and use another vape ?

The PA will help keep the handle cooler since the batteries are not heating it up. Still the core temperature will heat up the device but it will take longer. I don't have one so I can't say how many hits it'll take but I'm guessing a lot.

T1 vs Evo in hotness. I believe the T1 will get hotter quicker. It depends on how sensitive you are to the heat. I'm on the I don't think it's that hot but other people do scale. I was passing the T1 around with 2 other people and the other 2 refused to use it because it was too hot but I could still hold it and use it. I would say you can get a full bowl done before leaving it to rest. So I would say 8 hits, change the batteries out and then another 2-4 hits and then give it a rest. Not sure on the EVO (never used one) but I would say you can get the 2 bowls and then give it a rest.

 

[chucku]

So I just got my T1 in the mail today, I am still in the testing/learning curve stage but am liking it so far. I got a large delicious vapor cloud on my first hit. I am getting little bits in my moth but for test session two I will try a coarser grind. I do have a question: I was trying to take apart my t1 like the youtube video when I could not get the outer black sleeve to separate from the core or from the handle. I can unscrew it and get to the batteries and everything but cannot get it completely apart. this worries me as I cannot boil the bowl without taking it apart and removing the switch right? I banged the bottom of the handle on my dresser to try and separate the black sleeve from the metal and it budged until the metal and sleeve were flush but would not move any further so I had to turn it around and bang it back into place. I do not want to bang the core on anything to try and remove that sleeve so I don't know what to do. I know this is a brand new unit but it seems more impossible than it should to take apart. Ideas?

No need to remove anything. Dip a cotton swab in everclear and wipe. Repeat as many times as required.

 

[darkrom]

Whats going on in TV land with the power supply 12v car plug? At this point I'd find that far more useful than the house plug I have currently. I've run it with a power inverter, but it would be nice to not make a jungle out of the car haha.

 

[OF]

I can unscrew it and get to the batteries and everything but cannot get it completely apart. this worries me as I cannot boil the bowl without taking it apart and removing the switch right?

That video is of the original version, the sleeves are now pressed on. Don't bang them, if you need to shift them for whatever reason, boil them a few minutes and work with it hot. The sleeve expands faster than the metal.

You can leave the core in the body, just pull the switch. Take the battery tube off, then grab the little spring loaded button that makes the top battery contact with your fingernails and pull straight down. It will come out with the black switch body above it. There's an o-rig in the hole, pull it out too and don't boil it. You can unscrew the core from the body and it will dry out faster, but you can if you wish boil it as is. I wrap a couple big rubber bands just under the lip of the bowl and use it as a grip to unscrew the bowl and core....when I feel like it.

When you put the switch back in after boiling, ring first. Use the switch reversed (fat end first) to seat the ring at the bottom, then take the switch out, reverse it, and push it home. The ring will retain it correctly then.

Good luck.

Whats going on in TV land with the power supply 12v car plug? At this point I'd find that far more useful than the house plug I have currently. I've run it with a power inverter, but it would be nice to not make a jungle out of the car haha.

You must do a lot of camping DR.....we know you're not using it on the road.....

I suspect finding the right DC to DC converter is not easy. I looked once and gave up and built my own before I realized I didn't really need one. If they goof around too much longer, I bet Pipes pushes the issue again.....


OF

 

[HoneyAir]

Re: T1 or Evo?

I come from a log vape (the Purple Days) and I highly valued its efficiency in making my herbs last over twice as long, which has saved me untold number of $$$.

It is for this reason I went with the Evo-- I like a bowl to be able to completely vaporize without having to stir it. I DO NOT WANT TO STIR A BOWL. I want the entire bowl to vaporize completely without having unburnt areas [that force the stirring and yet is not quite as efficient].

It can be argued that while I do not have to stir, I may have to load more often due to the bowl being smaller. The Evo bowl is about 2 1/2 PD stem bowls, so for me personally I am very satisfied with the yield from one Evo bowl.

I use the bowl long enough to ensure that all of it is a tobacco color when it comes out. No burnt black specks on my end, so I'm very pleased with the efficiency I've been looking for.

The draw of the Evo is better than the draw I had through the PD stems, but it is still fairly restricted so that you are to take a slow, continual inhale in order to make the most out of this product. If the stiffness of the draw is important to you then maybe the T1 would be better for you for an easier inhale.

I'll be making a review of my Evo in the Evo thread soon...

 

[aj0125]

Quick question guys: All 6 batteries that came with my T1 take 2 hours a set to charge, is this normal? I thought I read awhile back in the thread that they should take closer to one hour. I just want to make sure nothing I got was defective.

 

[Pipes]

Quick question guys: All 6 batteries that came with my T1 take 2 hours a set to charge, is this normal? I thought I read awhile back in the thread that they should take closer to one hour. I just want to make sure nothing I got was defective.

Dead to full is close to 1 1/2 hours. If it takes longer then battery has been over discharged IMO.
This also varies on charger of course but the TV charger is 250 mA. IIRC, these batteries can be charged at up to 500 mA if you have the proper charger.
Hope this helps,
Pipes

 

[aj0125]

Dead to full is close to 1 1/2 hours. If it takes longer then battery has been over discharged IMO.
This also varies on charger of course but the TV charger is 250 mA. IIRC, these batteries can be charged at up to 500 mA if you have the proper charger.
Hope this helps,
Pipes

What do you mean by overdischarged? They are all taking 2 hours and i have only used each set twice, so is there something wrong with the batteries ? I want to be able to return them to Amazon if they are defective before return time runs out. Thanks.

 

[Pipes]

What do you mean by overdischarged? They are all taking 2 hours and i have only used each set twice, so is there something wrong with the batteries ? I want to be able to return them to Amazon if they are defective before return time runs out. Thanks.

If performing just use them but take note of the actual recharge times. Taking longer means they are taking more charge. This is a good thing IMO as when they get older the charge time actually shortens as capacity diminishes.
Maybe they have improved them?
Anyway, keep us informed if you find a performance issue.

Pipes

 

[Haywood]

Dead to full is close to 1 1/2 hours. If it takes longer then battery has been over discharged IMO.
This also varies on charger of course but the TV charger is 250 mA. IIRC, these batteries can be charged at up to 500 mA if you have the proper charger.
Hope this helps,
Pipes

The Tenergy charger supplied by TV is indeed rated at 250mA per battery. However, it's been my experience (and Tenergy's documentation) that Tenergy RCR123As can be safely charged at up to the 4C rate. Though they are factory rated at 750mAh, that's really someone's pipe dream. Brand new they all test out at close to 500mAh, and that's at a tiny discharge rate of 100mA, the lowest rate my smart balance charger/discharger will go. At the higher current our T1 and Evo draw, they don't supply as much power.

So I treat the Tenergy RCR123As as 500mAh, and I base my "C" charge rates based on that, not the higher (but IMHO inaccurate) 750mAh. When I balance charge 2-6 batteries (cells), I charge them at 1.5A (3C by my testing, 2C by Tenergy's spec); when I charge a single battery, I charge it at 2.0A (4C by my testing, 2.67C by Tenergy's spec). I've been doing this for a few months, and my batteries are working just fine. They don't get warm, let alone hot, charging at either rate, and they haven't lost significant capacity over the three months I've been charging them this way. And they charge MUCH MUCH faster. (At the 2.0A rate, they charge in about 20 minutes)

I think it's much more important to (1) not discharge them below 2 volts, and (2) not to charge them while they're still hot/warm, instead waiting a little while until they cool off.

I've been meaning to post about the two different chargers I use now, with pictures and links, but I just haven't found the time. Besides the "sophisticated" charger I'm talking about above, I also have a tiny inexpensive (~$20, as I recall) Tenergy "fast" charger that will charge 1-4 LiFePo4 or LiPo cells (in the case of our RCR123As, one battery = one cell) at the 1 Amp rate, which I use when I'm away from home.

 

[Nick Again]

The Tenergy charger supplied by TV is indeed rated at 250mA per battery. However, it's been my experience (and Tenergy's documentation) that Tenergy RCR123As can be safely charged at up to the 4C rate. Though they are factory rated at 750mAh, that's really someone's pipe dream. Brand new they all test out at close to 500mAh, and that's at a tiny discharge rate of 100mA, the lowest rate my smart balance charger/discharger will go. At the higher current our T1 and Evo draw, they don't supply as much power.

So I treat the Tenergy RCR123As as 500mAh, and I base my "C" charge rates based on that, not the higher (but IMHO inaccurate) 750mAh. When I balance charge 2-6 batteries (cells), I charge them at 1.5A (3C by my testing, 2C by Tenergy's spec); when I charge a single battery, I charge it at 2.0A (4C by my testing, 2.67C by Tenergy's spec). I've been doing this for a few months, and my batteries are working just fine. They don't get warm, let alone hot, charging at either rate, and they haven't lost significant capacity over the three months I've been charging them this way. And they charge MUCH MUCH faster. (At the 2.0A rate, they charge in about 20 minutes)

I think it's much more important to (1) not discharge them below 2 volts, and (2) not to charge them while they're still hot/warm, instead waiting a little while until they cool off.

I've been meaning to post about the two different chargers I use now, with pictures and links, but I just haven't found the time. Besides the "sophisticated" charger I'm talking about above, I also have a tiny inexpensive (~$20, as I recall) Tenergy "fast" charger that will charge 1-4 LiFePo4 or LiPo cells (in the case of our RCR123As, one battery = one cell) at the 1 Amp rate, which I use when I'm away from home.

Manufacturer's specs:
http://www.tenergy.com/RCR123A-3-0V-750mAh-LiFePO4-Rechargeable-Battery

Notice the MAXIMUM capacity is 750 mAh - MINIMUM is only 450mAh. Also the recommended charge rate is a very low 90mA with a rate of 450mA being "Rapid" - I'd guess 250mA is a good middle ground, but...
Also notice how low the manufacturer's rated discharge rate is - Under 1c! But we know better (but that's why they get so hot ).

-NDA

 

[Haywood]

Manufacturer's specs:
http://www.tenergy.com/RCR123A-3-0V-750mAh-LiFePO4-Rechargeable-Battery

Notice the MAXIMUM capacity is 750 mAh - MINIMUM is only 450mAh. Also the recommended charge rate is a very low 90mA with a rate of 450mA being "Rapid" - I'd guess 250mA is a good middle ground, but...
Also notice how low the manufacturer's rated discharge rate is - Under 1c! But we know better (but that's why they get so hot ).

-NDA

I've seen three different Tenergy spec sheets for their RCR123A batteries (including the one you link), and they all have wildly different specs. The other two list much higher charge and discharge rates. I'll see if I can find the other ones and link them for you. Note that in the same spec sheet you point to, right under the maximum charge current line, is the maximum discharge current, which is listed as 450mA. Since the T1 draws about 3000mA (as I recall; I'm sure Tim or OF will correct me if my memory is failing), it makes you wonder about the validity of that particular spec sheet. Maybe the author was medicating while (s)he wrote it.

I have 16 RCR123A batteries, 8 of which were bought directly from Tenergy and were manufactured a month before I received them. I tested all 16 cells for capacity (8 had been used for approx four months and 8 were brand new) and with the exception of two of the older batteries, which were trashed due to many over discharges to less then 2 Volts, the rest all tested out between 450mAh and 500mAh (at a 100mA discharge rate, which is 0.2C if you believe 500mAh and is 0.13C if you believe 750mAh).

Which reminds me, I really should take advantage of TV's current sale price (+25% discount) on RCR123A batteries, and buy some more!

When I first got the charger, due to reading three wildly different RCR123A spec sheets, I decided to test different charge rates. I started with 250mA (which is what the TV supplied Tenergy charger puts out, so I knew it was safe). Then for the next charge I increased the rate to 500mA. Batteries stayed at room temp. I kept increasing the charge current each time until I could just barely discern that the batteries were a little warmer, maybe 5°F (?) above ambient temp. That rate was 2 Amps. I used my fingers to test, not a thermometer, though my charger came with a thermocouple so I guess I could have hooked it up and recorded the temp. I do my multicell charging at 1.5 Amps (having to do with the way a balance charger works, I didn't want to go the full 2 Amps), and my single cell charging at 2 Amps.

I've been doing this for months, and my batteries are all holding up superbly. I kinda think that I've found the proper charge current.

 

[OF]

A couple of thoughts on secondary cells in general, and these guys in specific. First off I think Specsmanship is in full glory here, trying to make big numbers (they make sales I hear?). Low discharge rates are a traditional way of doing that. I measured it early on, IIRC 550 mAh was what I came up with based on some runs in SV Evolution, I'd expect T1 to be a bit lower.

These guys were walking away winners WRT low internal resistance, you can hit 'em hard and they don't sag. As I recall reading somewhere they're aimed at the camera guys, some of whom beat the 123A shamelessly.

There are issues in charging other than temperature. For instance there's also often a fairly narrow range of rates that really do well in fun areas like end of charge detection. Or cycle life. I suspect, off hand, that the 250 mA from the factory charger for them is not an accident. That's less than a Watt a channel, chump change for the wall wort. They could have had higher currents and therefore faster recharges with simple no cost component changes I bet.....but didn't. Maybe they intentionally limit it low like the e-cig guys sometimes do? I think there's a clue there so I use the low range (300 mA) not high range (650) on my WF-188 charger. I lost the original charger (not permanently I hope) when I loaned it to a local Dispensary to check out. Everything but the little charger came back.....batteries dead flat and core gummed up of course, but that was easy enough to overcome.

I also briefly tried the IMR 16340s, I think that's the number, in there (3.7 Volts each) impressive battery, but made the T1 a handful and then some. It was nerve wracking to use, not at all as intuitive as the basic machine is. Too bad, might make an interesting test if TV would build a higher resistance core to get it back in balance.

OF

 

[pecosthecat]

I just got back into town. The replacement switch was in the pile of mail on my desk. I just got home and popped it into the T1 and it is working like a charm now. I am very happy to get this vape back up and running.

I received an email last night stating that the replacement switch is being sent out. I am really looking forward to getting my T1 up and running again. Thanks Tim & Zeki for helping getting my situation rectified.

 

[OF]

I just got back into town. The replacement switch was in the pile of mail on my desk. I just got home and popped it into the T1 and it is working like a charm now. I am very happy to get this vape back up and running.

Great news, thanks for passing the good word.

Any idea what happened with the switch? There was a problem early on with debris shaved off in pressing the contacts in getting trapped inside the switch causing trouble later on, but long ago they changed the process to address this. Is the dead one going back for analysis?

OF

 

[AdmiralAlpacha]

What temperature does the T1 vaporize at, or what is the range? I did a few searches but was not able to find a answer.

 

[Pipes]

What temperature does the T1 vaporize at, or what is the range? I did a few searches but was not able to find a answer.

Interesting question there. With this device the main temperature control lies with the users draw and technique. The concept is to heat the heater core beyond the needed temperature and draw the heat up through the herb to reach vaping temperature. The design of the lower chamber temperature must be low enough as to not combust the material but hot enough not to give the user a hernia pulling up the heat. the lower chamber is pre-set to heat up to via heater windings and placement. This is why battery condition is critical with this device to operate correctly.
Hope this helps. Have no idea as to the lower chamber heater temperatures sweet spot but will be very hot.

Pipes

 

[AdmiralAlpacha]

Well how about this, how does the harshness and temp compare to some other vapes you have used?