Futuretvowner
Member
I read that the lipo4's that the TV uses couldn't explode tho
Discontinued ThermoVape
- Thread starter VaporBoxed
- Start date
Oh, my voltage meter will also measure ohm? I did not realize this.So where/what then do I connect the probes to to test ohm ratings??
Change the selector to ohms, lowest setting. Short the leads together and confirm it reads zero. If not there should be a "relative 0" calibration button. If not just note the reading and subtract it off what you measure. The probes need to measure the elements thus easiest with core removed.
Hope this helps,
Pipes
PhreedomPhries
High Plains Drifter
Without current applied? My multimeter has ohm settings starting @ 20. When I set it to that, it registers nothing.
There is no 0 ohm setting. Starts at 20 & goes up.
OF
Well-Known Member
Oh, my voltage meter will also measure ohm? I did not realize this.
OK, your Voltage meter won't read anything by voltage. However, what you probably have is a "Digital Multi Meter" (DMM), the multi part being multi function. In general they measure voltage, resistance and current (everything most guys need). In practice the meter provides some current and reports the measured voltage as a resistance. How's that for complex? To change resistance ranges all they do it change currents used to test in fact.
As Bart says, you need to find the resistance ranges. There's usually 5 or 6 of them.
So if you can measure voltage, leave the probes connected where they are and change to the lowest Ohms scale you have, most likely 200 Ohms. Next would be 2000, then 20,000 and so on. When you do this the display goes to 'overrange' meaning usually most of it blanks out. Touching the probes together should cause real readings to show. Note the minimum number shown, this is the value of the leads and other stray stuff that really should be subtracted, look for values of an Ohm or two at most. Now whatever is in between the probes will be measured. Including you. Go to highest range and see, you may have to lick your fingertips if you have dry skin (which is why electricity is dangerous around wet).
Your meter will also read current, but be careful there. Current meters go in series (in the path) since they essentially have to count electrons in the flow, not across the source. Put one across a battery for instance and the meter or battery will loose.....
OF
Get a better meter. A cheap digital one. $13 at home depot.
Lifepo4 are among safest but I bet someone on here uses other batteries at some point.
I know I do. But I test mine every charge. Have them in matched number sets. Randomly test under load. But then I like to push devices to the limit.
Side note. When using devices at higher than recommended volts. Please don't claim warranty. It drives up prices on responsible people who use them as recommended.
But definatly learn about batteries before experimenting.
Lifepo4 are among safest but I bet someone on here uses other batteries at some point.
I know I do. But I test mine every charge. Have them in matched number sets. Randomly test under load. But then I like to push devices to the limit.
Side note. When using devices at higher than recommended volts. Please don't claim warranty. It drives up prices on responsible people who use them as recommended.
But definatly learn about batteries before experimenting.
PhreedomPhries
High Plains Drifter
There is an arrow pointing right and then with a line running through it perpendicular on my meter. When I set it to that, I do get a measure of "2" at the lowest on the core. I don't know how to interpret any of this. As for measuring voltage on the core, OF, are you talking about connecting the probes to the core while engaging the battery?
PhreedomPhries
High Plains Drifter
Very good. What I just may proceed with is requesting a core with three coils of standard length and gauge. Yes, I realize in so doing i am hot-rodding the potential maximum operating temperature output of the device. Am I wrong in thinking that as long as I pulse it on a fresh set of cells, and then only hold down the switch towards the end of a cells' cycle, as the voltage is dropping, I should be able to maintain proper operating temperature range without too much additional juice drain except at the end when the voltage is dropping, because the rest of the time the juice will be flowing intermittently only when I pulse it. That way, the three individual coils will indeed stay under less stress because they will not have to get up to full intensity as often, and it would add the benefit of the end of the round having the proper amount of heat, instead of a slightly insufficient amount with a 2-coil core as the voltage drops. I hope this is clear. I know it may sound a little convoluted, but it's clear in my mind at least. Perhaps read this post twice?
midgetsanchez
Well-Known Member
If only there was a flashlight head that would screw on the T1 perfectly...or even just a head that fits over the top hiding the mouthpiece. The T1 looks like a flashlight body!
OF
Well-Known Member
There's really no way for you to measure the core voltage under load, there's no way to get to the connections without building a break out cable like I did.
Otherwise I think you and Pipes are dealing with the resistance reading exercise, I'll stand by on that one.
FWIW I'm not a big fan of such duty cycle heat controls over the scheme in use currently. I think a rig that combusts if you're not careful is a step backwards, but that's just my opinion. I would not be looking to substitute a 45 Watt core for a 30 Watt one that seems effective......
Good luck.
OF
PhreedomPhries
High Plains Drifter
It may indeed be susceptible to user error if not used properly, but do you not find that the TV delivers too little heat as soon as the voltage on the cells begins to drop? It seems like a 45 watt core would have the benefit of being able to continue delivering 30 watts worth of heat closer to when the cells are ready for automatic shut-off. In other words, if the 45 watt core is pulsed in the beginning, one could avoid combustion and achieve increased heat delivery at the end of each round. Foolproof? No. Possibly a nice change to be able to fully finish a chamber on an old set of cells instead of having to pop in fresh ones to finish off the round? Yes.
The RCR123AA LiFePo4 batteries we use are very safe, actually one of the safest chemistry's available. There have been a number of high risk tests (nail through battery then a full "short" for example) and the batteries passed every test with flying colors.
There are some unprotected Lithium batteries available which can be VERY dangerous with any high drain device. ALWAYS use only the recommended batteries with a ThermoVape.
Cheers,
Tim
PhreedomPhries
High Plains Drifter
So Tim, I asked this the other day by email, but have yet to receive a reply. Did you guys ever prototype any 3 coil cores? I was asked by email to provide some numbers for what I'm looking for, but I'd like your guys' feedback first on what's been tried, what is not wise to try, and what may not have been attempted.
I saw the e-mail, still trying to figure out what we can do for that. The thing with the 3 core is if you just add another coil to the same spec your going to be running close to 45watts and that increased heat in such a confined space could actually over heat the wire and decrease its life. If we make the 3 coil the same 30watt power then were going to have to wind the cores with more wraps of wire which will decrease the clearance between the wires. Its a tough question to answer, its going to take me a few before i can setup any custom "modder" cores.
Cheers,
Tim
jambandphan03
in flavor country
Well, I have to take a little break from vaping until my chest cold/allergy whatever this crud is clears up some... boooooo! lungs are not happy right now. Time to bust out the tincture
lungs are not happy right now. Time to bust out the tincture
2clicker
Observer
oh boy... i see a
in your future.custom winded cores? i love you guys! group hug!!!!
chant121
Well-Known Member
i noticed when i received my Tv the lower shiny metal rim-part where you screw the battery section to the higher section has slightly chipped off i am worried it will get worse or worse, i will inhale some tiny particles somehow through the heater core air holes .. ? Any1?
PhreedomPhries
High Plains Drifter
Thank you for this input Tim. I have a counter, and I don't mean any disrespect by it. Please put me in my place if I am mistaken, but I am glad to hear this from the horses' mouth, so to speak. Here is my thinking:
With the current, standard 30 watt core, an interesting thing occurs as the cell voltage begins to drain and approach the 2.0v automatic cutoff point, which is 4.0v stacked. As the voltage goes down, the overall intensity of the 30 watt core goes down commensurately. Why then would the same principle not hold true with a nominal "45 watt" 3-coil core? In other words, yes the 3-coll core would have the capacity to run at 45 watts, if provided with the proper amount of voltage, (approx. 9 volts, right?) but when only 6 volts (ie the LifePo cells) are being delivered to that 3-coil core, wouldn't it indeed only fire to an intensity commensurate to the amount of juice that the 6v cells are able to deliver? Not at all unlike how the 30 watt core fires less than at full intensity when only ~4v are delivered... Because if that is true, then a 3-coil core would indeed disperse that same peak temperature over three coils instead of just two, which seems like it would indeed lessen the stress to the individual cores that are receiving the direct load. However, if a 3-coil core will indeed deliver more total heat than a two-coil, even with 6v delivery remaining a constant, then it seems pulsing it in the beginning would prevent overheating, with the benefit of "proper" heat delivery towards the drained end of the cells' cycle (without having to pulse, perhaps).
PhreedomPhries
High Plains Drifter
I believe the bottom compartment that makes contact with the battery compartment is completely isolated from the airpath for the core. Anyone feel free to correct me, but I do not believe you need to be concerned of inhaling anything at all from that area of the device.
PB88123
Vaporist
Send an e-mail to them sales@thermovape.com with a picture of the chipping attached and I'm sure they will send you out a new piece.
chant121
Well-Known Member
I hope not, i only just got it too, nothing more annoying than finding problems with our well payed for goods, I guess i should email them, i know how busy they are though.
Yes just shoot us an e-mail at sales@thermovape.com and we can take care of you
On a side note, here is the trailer of the c|net show were are going to be featured on. Check it out!
