Discontinued ThermoVape

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
E-liquids are flavored liquids used for nicotine or e-cig delivery systems. The revolution is for anything cannabis related like hash oils kif etc. although I do put kif in my T1 with pretty good results but you have to be careful.
 
t-dub,

OF

Well-Known Member
Not sure what an e-liquid is. If you had dry keif or thick honey, you'd use a Revolution?

Affirmative your last regrading kif and other concentrates. Revolution's the tool.

e-liquid is VG or PG based stuff for e-cigs. You know, nicotine addicts?

OF
 
OF,

sessnet

Noob Saibot
Sessnet,
To repair yours you can apply some thread locker or epoxy glue to the reverse thread area, use the strongest you can find. :spidey:

Can you please recommend something - or exactly the type your company might use? I just need a small amount...
 
sessnet,

willieR

Been here since 2009
Groovy. Makes great sense. Would be cool to have a wood tip on the end of the metal mouth stem. Like Ed does for different vapes and such. Maybe he does already.

So I guess all I need is the T-1 kit and the converter to Revolution. Anyone use that spiffy non-stick tool? I'm not personally crazy about anything non-stick. Maybe I should post this on the Revolution forum.
 
willieR,

sessnet

Noob Saibot
tvnooooo.jpg


vadergx.jpg
 
sessnet,
Futuretvowner,
Most of the time the oxidation wont cause any issues, but in those events vinegar really does the trick.:nope:




Vinegar is fine on the sleeve inside or out, even without diluting it will be fine for it, its just waste-full using it that strong.



Good to hear your pleased! :cheers:




Our store should be up and running today. We were not hacked:chill: , were just changing our payment services. :buzz:


Tim
:goat:


Ok I did this and no luck. Should I try putting the switch in the vinegar? I'm at a loss because I can't even use it at this point. :huh:
 
Futuretvowner,

OF

Well-Known Member
Oh man . . . that sucks . . . :( feeling your pain bro . . .

Don't panic. First, this is not a critical seal, put the ring back into the groove, lube it up and screw the top down as you keep the ends tucked in. It will seal plenty well until the replacement ring gets to you from TV. I'd avoid 'hardware store' rings (temperature concerns) but you can also take the PTFE tape plumbers use on tape threads twisted into a 'string' wound into the groove to fill it up as a stopgap, but the ring will work just fine.

Send TV a note so they can mail you a ring or two, put it back together and test it out.....


OF
 
OF,
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GReYAReA

Amid The Vapors...
Groovy. Makes great sense. Would be cool to have a wood tip on the end of the metal mouth stem. Like Ed does for different vapes and such. Maybe he does already.

So I guess all I need is the T-1 kit and the converter to Revolution. Anyone use that spiffy non-stick tool? I'm not personally crazy about anything non-stick. Maybe I should post this on the Revolution forum.

I like the tool because it won't scratch the metal... and its a neat little "extra" for your set. Ultimately though, a toothpick would work just as well.
 
GReYAReA,
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Reactions: willieR

weedemon

enthusiast
@willieR: if all you want is to be able to vape herbs and hash oils then yes all you need is the TV1 setup kit(249 i think), the revolution (high voltage one) and the thermovape adapter interface. (you can get those 2 bundled for 87 i think it was.) beyond that you don`t need anything else.

but you may want to consider the water pipe adapter, or the pureflow-moisture conditioner adapter.

also you may want to get more batteries or a 2nd charger. I got a 2nd charger and 2 extra batteries. i`m very glad i did. the 4 sets just aren't quite enough for me. and if im honest i could even do with a 5th or 6th set! also having a 2nd charger is a godsend! :D know that! haha

this vapes only gripe i give it is the batteries are really 1 set per bowl in the herb core. it`s much better on the revolution as it draws much less power. also when you are first learning to hit it. you will probably kill the batteries before you have finished the bowl. just something to be aware of to prevent any frustration. when figuring it out for yourself.

I don`t personally think the poker tool is worth it. i use my finger and a tooth pick when i really need to.




while it totally sucks to see this, your post makes me chuckle! the DV picture is f`n perfect :)

what happened exactly?
 
weedemon,

sessnet

Noob Saibot
what happened exactly?

I tried to remove the delrin sleeve but I guess I was removing that metal housing/bridge too. The rubber must have gotten really wound up and snapped (rolling around somehow?).

It's all a guess - I didn't try to break it, was in fact, attempting the opposite :drool:
 
sessnet,

weedemon

enthusiast
damn! I`m confident TV will take good care of you though! :) you have already emailed them I assume?
 
weedemon,

OF

Well-Known Member
I tried to remove the delrin sleeve but I guess I was removing that metal housing/bridge too. The rubber must have gotten really wound up and snapped (rolling around somehow?).

It's all a guess - I didn't try to break it, was in fact, attempting the opposite :drool:

OK, you know how to put it back together, right? First off, the sleeve pushes off the piece still inside it, you can do that right now? Then the heat core should come off then the short bit below it with the switch in it. That part and the part inside the sleeve screw back together first, but the threads are left hand, that is "backwards", screw it on CCW not CW. Get it tight, tighter than the caps and heat core or this will happen again. Then screw the heat core in (keeping the o-ring tucked in as you go), snug is just fine. The top cap next, followed by the sleeve from below, air holes up, butt that against the cap (it should take some pushing to move when cold, hot may be better?). And hopefully you're back in business. Mine happened months ago, someday I'll glue it again....maybe.

Or you can send the lot to Tim.... A fresh ring should put you right, but you can limp on one that leaks a little bit until then. You'll never notice the gap. Just keep it all tucked in with your fingernail or a screwdriver or something as you screw the heat core in, it'll be fine....

Sorry it happened, but it doesn't have to wreck your evening.

OF
 
OF,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Thought I'd through this head scratcher in.
A tad of e-juice for lube on the cleaners O-ring for an easy back and forth twist. Would make a good on the fly clog cleaner.
HoleCleanerConcept.jpg

Hey TV, u make me test?
:wave:
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Wow, Sessnut didn't see all the bad news until now. Man, what a drag.
Feel for ya,
 
Pipes,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Wow, Sessnut didn't see all the bad news until now. Man, what a drag.
Feel for ya,
I took a close look at the battery holder and seems the main contact is around the base. It kinda looks like a cap if you really look close. Clean this the best you can with ISO. Also, pay particular attention to the inside the handle around the bottom where this base ring would slide. Wipe the battery contacts and switch contact again with ISO. Triple check element and switch seating. Clean element threadings.
It has to be a contact issue somehow? Somewhere.
Good luck,
:worms:

Edited: Thank you Willie.
:)
 
Pipes,

OF

Well-Known Member
I'm very frustrated right now soaking my battery sleeve and body in the vinegar did nothing really. What now?

Sorry to hear it, but no surprised. It kinda conflicted with my experience and understanding of NiO (which I know as a brutally tough thin film that laughs at far stronger acids that dilute GAA, the kind that dissolve you). And it conducts electrons very well. Then again experience is where you find it.

While it's nearly impossible to troubleshoot such stuff from the distance (more so when the guy on the other end has no spares or instruments to help) aside from the proverbial 'shotgun' (never a good first plan, IMO), I'm still stuck on the switch. Not only because the symptoms point that way but because I had a similar problem that ended there. If the switch is down square and get's pushed back correctly on assembly, I'm looking to the contacts inside and some junk.

OF
 
OF,

willieR

Been here since 2009
The electrical current path seems very simple, but contacts seem to be an issue
 
willieR,
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