Discontinued Thermovape Luna

[GR]

Zeki got back to me and the luna liquid core is ready so I will order it and send my Cera EOs in for rebuild and getting them in spec with the luna.

Those with the Luna find that they are using the Cera body anymore?

Also I need some 18350 batteries, what would people recommend?

 

[Mynameismud]

Also I need some 18350 batteries, what would people recommend?

AW IMR you can find them on w9tech for a good price

 

[thegoo]

Zeki got back to me and the luna liquid core is ready so I will order it and send my Cera EOs in for rebuild and getting them in spec with the luna.

Those with the Luna find that they are using the Cera body anymore?

Also I need some 18350 batteries, what would people recommend?

I have had the Luna for several weeks now and I have not found a need to use my CERA body at all. The fact that Luna is lighter, shorter and has the new momentary switch at the top of the device pretty much keeps my CERA on the shelf. If you are on the go, and need to steal a quick hit or medicate on a regular basis during the day the LUNA is an excellent choice. The only thing I would caution is that once you have your EO carts rebuilt to fit the LUNA they will no longer fit the CERA.

AS mynameismud said you best bet on the batteries is w9tech and there is a 20% coupon code sitewide which should still be good this weekend. (ILIKEUPTECH)

Goodluck with all your new purchases and happy vaping!

- Goo

 

[GR]

Thanks, aw IMRs it is. Not from up tech though, prefer to not have to sign for my package since post lady never actually knocks on the door.

OF answered at the top of the last page that Cera carts fitted to the Luna will still work on the Cera. I have two Cera bodies and will keep one for backup and pass the other one along I think.

 

[kushcabbage]

Thanks, aw IMRs it is. Not from up tech though, prefer to not have to sign for my package since post lady never actually knocks on the door.

OF answered at the top of the last page that Cera carts fitted to the Luna will still work on the Cera. I have two Cera bodies and will keep one for backup and pass the other one along I think.

I am so excited to get a shipping notice for my luna and EO cart, here are the batteries I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4IKHU2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also ordered the VTC4's to try

 

[OF]

The only thing I would caution is that once you have your EO carts rebuilt to fit the LUNA they will no longer fit the CERA.

Are you sure? That's definitely not what I was told. Nor does it make any sense. Why doesn't it fit? It can't be because it's too long or too short for Cera........

One of my EO carts worked in both Luna and Cera before they got it????

I'm going over to pick mine up again next week, if the carts I gave them no longer work in the Cera I left with them (as well as the Luna) it's gonna get ugly. Why on earth would one opt to use a LL cart on Luna over Cera?

OF answered at the top of the last page that Cera carts fitted to the Luna will still work on the Cera. I have two Cera bodies and will keep one for backup and pass the other one along I think.

That's sure what I thought (only 'cuz I was told as much......). I should know for sure about mid week next week, I'll let the faithful know what I find out.

OF

 

[Severmore]

FWIW, both of my EO carts sized for the Luna body also fire up just fine on the Cera.

 

[Darb]

FWIW, both of my EO carts sized for the Luna body also fire up just fine on the Cera.

My two EO carts also fit and work in Cera and Luna.

 

[OF]

My two EO carts also fit and work in Cera and Luna.

Thanks. Logically (as I see logic....) it has to be this way. Carts too long or short to work in Luna are still OK in Cera since the floating battery and spring make up any difference? The battery in Cera just moves up or down a bit, but the switch in Luna can only move a very small amount.....

I'll know for sure next week.

OF

 

[thegoo]

i have no idea what i was thinking or why i said that. i wish i could blame it on being over medicated but i dont believe that to be the case. my apologies everyone i will be more careful to re read what i write before i post.
On another note.....does anyone know what size allen wrench is needed to tighten the switch on the Luna? My switch has been loosening and activating the device without my engaging it...I used one of the pointy ends of a fork to tighten it enough so that it would stop without having to take the battery out but im definitely going to need a more permanent solution.

 

[OF]

i have no idea what i was thinking or why i said that.

On another note.....does anyone know what size allen wrench is needed to tighten the switch on the Luna?

No problem, glad it's sorted out, you gave (some of) us quite a start though......

I don't have mine back in hand to check, bit IIRC it's a 2-56 screw (like the one in the button?), therefore takes a not too common .035 wrench (most sets end at .050). Needless to say, a 'firm but steady' touch is called for as it's a steel screw into a brass part.

Good luck with it.

Thanks for the clarification on the fit issue. One less thing to worry about. Now, if you could please do something about this unemployment problem? Or maybe that little squabble in the Middle East, or this Obamacare thing?

We could use some more rain out here on the Left coast as well, come to think on it.

TIA

OF

 

[Severmore]

FYI, the Allen Key for the Luna switch (and screw opposite the switch) is definitely bigger than the 0.035 required for the carts, in fact it is bigger than 0.05. I have one at home but can't recall the size...I'll try to update this post once I find out tonight.

Edit...the button/switch size may be 2-56, if that is considerably bigger than the 0.035 for the carts...sorry, I'm not sure about the Allen nomenclature.

 

[OF]

FYI, the Allen Key for the Luna switch (and screw opposite the switch) is definitely bigger than the 0.035 required for the carts, in fact it is bigger than 0.05. I have one at home but can't recall the size...I'll try to update this post once I find out tonight.

Edit...the button/switch size may be 2-56, if that is considerably bigger than the 0.035 for the carts...sorry, I'm not sure about the Allen nomenclature.

Thanks, like I said, I don't have mine to work with. If the screws are bigger than 2s, they're fours like used in the ill fated sliding Cera switch but need a small profile head. My next guess would be .063, 1/16 inch, a pretty common size. "Next size up" from .050. It's not metric. Stronger threads, too. That might be pretty important, the short screw (retention) might be going into the Delrin switch body, if it gets stripped you're toast.

OF

 

[Severmore]

After a few days use, I did notice that there are new "marks" emerging on my new switch plate and corresponding contact points on the screw head of the EO cart within the Luna. I am by no means an expert, but it seems as though the design of a "rounded" screw head contacting the "flat" switch plate will undoubtedly lead to non-uniform contact? Would this issue be rectified if the base screw on the cart had a flat head?

No worries on my end though, as the Luna has fired up with every button push. As OF mentioned earlier, this transfer of material from switch to cart is likely "self-healing" in nature...plus it's hidden from view so my OCD regarding perfect appearances is repressed.

On another note, I do have a pretty "wiggly" cart. It moves quite a bit on the Luna body...I feel it's from me over tightening the cart, or just taking it on and off and on and off ad nauseam. Any advice? I know that I really shouldn't touch the base screws of the cart. I recall reading about them being very easy to overtighten/strip.

 

[OF]

I am by no means an expert, but it seems as though the design of a "rounded" screw head contacting the "flat" switch plate will undoubtedly lead to non-uniform contact? Would this issue be rectified if the base screw on the cart had a flat head?

Hard to say, contact profile design is an art all it's own, really. Dead flat won't usually work, you need a fair bit of pressure (in 'pounds per square inch') to ensure solid contact in a worst case and a profile and mechanical structure that 'tightens that up' under load (say as things heat and expand in our case) so it doesn't end up fighting itself. And heat is an issue at many levels. If you want flat (like say points in a car) you need lots of pressure and be able to deal with varying losses (not possible for us) and very high heats (the reason car points are Tungsten).

I think it's important that the Silver plating is not breached, but aside from that marks on the Silver are just marks on the Silver.

FWIW if I were king the face of that screw would be polished and there'd be some spring tension to help things out (as happened in Cera). Time will tell I think.

BTW, my planned trip over to TV to collect my gear (after rebuilding) hit a rock. I'll try again tomorrow, but it might be Monday? Until then, I sure am glad I've got backup......

OF

 

[Severmore]

I think it's important that the Silver plating is not breached, but aside from that marks on the Silver are just marks on the Silver.

OF

Thanks as always! At what point is the silver plate breached? The marks that I speak of, when gently probed with a toothpick, can be felt as divots and have a much darker color in appearance. Does this mean I've breached the silver layer and entered the material underneath? Again, I am not too concerned as the unit has been performing flawlessly.

I would be interested to learn if you experience similar issues after a week's worth of use upon your Luna's return. If possible, please keep us posted.

 

[OF]

Thanks as always! At what point is the silver plate breached?

You're quite welcome, glad to help if I can.

The part is Silver over brass. You should be able to see the brass color if you break through. The more important observation takes about ten power or so, you're looking for ball ends on the scratches (fusion from the heat of the arc) usually with local burning. If the plating gives out, it will degrade fairly quickly. It should be thick enough to take a fair bit of wear. If the contact is fairly solid, the high current flow should improve things, otherwise the localized power should blow the plating off bit by bit.

Darkness could well be Silver Oxide (tarnish) which will form quickly where the heat is concentrated but in itself should not interfere. I've seen Silver contacts 'black as the inside of a cow' with oxide still humming along just fine.

Bottom line is, I think, if there's an issue with the contact it won't be a secret long? I'd keep an eye on it, but not get excited about it absent other indicators.

OF

 

[kushcabbage]

Hey guys thought I would leave a post here. I recieved my luna and eo core today, first time user. The first thing I noticed when I screw my eo core in the Luna body there is an ever so slight wiggling I don't know if this is a problem with the threads or anyone else's does this. Wiggle the core and see if it moves. The other thing I notice is that I had a lot of trouble getting it loaded. I loaded .4 and held the button down but the cart got hot, but nothing would melt. Using wax. I Finnaly used a small torch to heat the oil in the top and it slipped slowly into the ceramic, now it is hitting but still feels dry burning taste, I guess I just need more in there? Thanks guys

*edit* also is anyone else getting their mouthpiece springs cut up after putting it into the eo? I have been gentle but have almost ruined two mouthpiece prints

 

[OF]

The first thing I noticed when I screw my eo core in the Luna body there is an ever so slight wiggling I don't know if this is a problem with the threads or anyone else's does this.

The other thing I notice is that I had a lot of trouble getting it loaded. I loaded .4 and held the button down but the cart got hot, but nothing would melt. Using wax.

Yes, that's quite normal, everyone's does it (or should if it's not fouled out). Things have to change size without breaking in there. In Cera this movement is masked but still there. LL cores float too.

All such loading problems are all related to concentrate I think. That is there are concentrates (like medium weight pure CO2 or Butane oils) that load faultlessly every time in carts others can't get their goods to work in. Have you done a foil test on your wax? My bet is it doesn't do too well there?

Stick with it, it's worth learning how to use IMO.

OF

 

[kushcabbage]

Yes, that's quite normal, everyone's does it (or should if it's not fouled out). Things have to change size without breaking in there. In Cera this movement is masked but still there. LL cores float too.

All such loading problems are all related to concentrate I think. That is there are concentrates (like medium weight pure CO2 or Butane oils) that load faultlessly every time in carts others can't get their goods to work in. Have you done a foil test on your wax? My bet is it doesn't do too well there?

Stick with it, it's worth learning how to use IMO.

OF

Thanks mate, usually I will find the good amber shatter and clear oils, but all the wax I get and make do pass the foil test, top shelf buds. Looking forward to some amber glass in a week and curious about the cleaning, 20/20/20 as if I was cleaning my darts?

 

[OF]

Looking forward to some amber glass in a week and curious about the cleaning, 20/20/20 as if I was cleaning my darts?

Great, glad to hear it's passing the foil test, I've had a couple waxes that didn't. And some taffies. Otherwise they looked and tasted great???

Yeah, I've done exactly the same drill with Cera as DART (fresh battery, 20 seconds on, 20 off, 20 times).

It can help when things are bad in my experience, but I don't like to use it casually since I think the ash has no way of ever getting out (short of rebuilds). Once you do the 20/20/20 on the core, ISO and boiling aren't going to touch what's left. Best to wash it out if you can.

Hang in there, Bro, the rewards are real and IMO well worth the effort.

OF

 

[Todai]

I just pulled the trigger and ordered a Luna EO! A HUGE thanks to OF for all his posts with explanations and answered questions, that really helped solidify my decision to give this beast a go.

I have an Omicron V2.5 HVD also, so very anxious to compare the two.

I love the fact that, as with W9, I am getting something from a company that really loves what they do and will stand behind their product.

Get ready for all my noob questions once it gets here!

Can't wait!

Thanks again OF! TET should be giving you some commission, lol.

 

[b3team]

I just received my Luna. This thing is awesome. Quick stupid question- I am trying to find some more batteries and the ones on amazon say "3.6 V" whereas the battery I got from TET says 3.7. Otherwise everything looks the same. I don't know anything about batteries, does that voltage difference matter?

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-NCR...TF8&qid=1397593310&sr=8-1&keywords=ncr18650pf

 

[kushcabbage]

what is everyones favorite drip tip to use with the EO? I have been loving using the smooth flow water conditioner, has anyone tried a UFO? I can't find them available online anymore.

I really like the look of these wooden drip tips: https://www.fasttech.com/category/0/search/-/p/6/?drip tip
I've been using this one, looks oh so sexy, but gets hot being so short. https://www.fasttech.com/p/1636701
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10006958/1558801-70mm-aluminum-510-long-drip-tip

edit* is this the arching I was reading about? sorry I couldn't get a closer picture.

 

[MileHighLife]

is this the arching I was reading about? sorry I couldn't get a closer picture.

Yeah that's what mine looks like. They didn't replace the contact plate when I sent my Luna in for cart adjustment and it works great now so I guess it's just cosmetic. Kinda disappointing but at least we've got the 10 year warranty in case the contact goes bad.

Hey guys thought I would leave a post here. I recieved my luna and eo core today, first time user. The first thing I noticed when I screw my eo core in the Luna body there is an ever so slight wiggling I don't know if this is a problem with the threads or anyone else's does this. Wiggle the core and see if it moves. The other thing I notice is that I had a lot of trouble getting it loaded. I loaded .4 and held the button down but the cart got hot, but nothing would melt. Using wax. I Finnaly used a small torch to heat the oil in the top and it slipped slowly into the ceramic, now it is hitting but still feels dry burning taste, I guess I just need more in there? Thanks guys

*edit* also is anyone else getting their mouthpiece springs cut up after putting it into the eo? I have been gentle but have almost ruined two mouthpiece prints

I've found a heat gun helps out quite a bit for loading waxes in to the eo cart. I pulse the button while hitting the top with a small butane heat gun and the wax melts down in the ceramic pretty quickly.

I also like to use a modified Omicron loading tool sometimes. I ripped the bar out that blocks the airway for the Omicron cart and took a dremel to the lip of the loading tool so that it can fit into the 510 mouth piece hole.