I have a question about the switch on the bottom of the Cera. Is it in a physically different position when it is turned on to when it is turned off ?
Could you also give us some more information about suitable batteries. Do they need to be exactly 2900mAH? If not, what is the suitable range? Also, I notice that your batteries are flat-tops. Are button-tops OK?
Well I'm not Tim, but I can actually answer those questions for you, that's the good news part. The reason I can answer them is because I just got back from picking up my test unit just before Thanksgiving! It's mighty neat.....
But to answer your question, yes the bottom push-push switch shows an offset in when on of about 'a dime's thickness', very easy to feel as the rim around the button is sharp on the edge. Very nicely done, IMO. Likewise the safety switch on the side will have some tactile clue in the final version. Perhaps with different heads on the colored shaft ends (although it's a tiny shaft but something might be done there) or by making one mode (say 'off safe') stick out 2mm or so. If you can look, the colored band will tell you the status, of course.
The battery is noting special. I tried several 18650s and a 17670 they all fit fine and should work well. The battery they're having made for them is no doubt the best available in terms of battery life but lesser batteries should fit and work fine. They do have to be button top to work though. The flat top ones in the photos don't work without a lump of solder on them. The final batteries being made up will of course be button top.
Now to the bad part.....I broke it already. Well, to be completely honest, I had help. It was broken before. As it always seems to happen, one little part is not available in the right form yet, a tiny ceramic washer that makes part of the insulator for the core connector. There's one hand built one in the known world so while I waited they switched it to a brand new core and heater for me to start working with with the agreement I'd come back and get a couple different power cores to run tests on as soon as they get the correct parts in (a few days, hopefullly). Because it's ceramic, tiny and the only one it broke when they moved it over. Putting it carefully together with the broken parts in their correct positions got it to light so I took it and went home. So it died just as I got it up to temperature......Murphy never misses and easy bet.
So now I've got to sit and stare at it until TV can make up another core. It's worse than looking a photos I'll tell you.
In a couple of words,
it's beyond neat. TV seems to have addressed every concern we raised, and a few others as well. This is a 'form follows function' machine of the first order. If you started out with the idea to use the 18650 battery, put a better switch scheme on it, improve the core design and efficiency, stop the airpath from clogging, provide an 'all glass' vapor path (actually a ceramic arguably 'cleaner' than glass), remove threads from routine operation, eliminate stirring and make it easier to disassemble you'd probably end up with a similar unit......if you were smart enough.
Here's the jaw dropper for me, this sucker isn't garden variety alumina ceramic....it's
Zirconia! The extra weight is an instant clue. You know those big buck ceramic knives Kyocera sells? Yup, that's the stuff. A special very stable grade of it called "
stabilized Zirconia". The stuff they make critical jet engine parts from. Used for the body of our new vape.....
You will not be disappointed when you get yours, trust me.
Anyway, suddenly I know the answers to lots of the questions we've been tossing around (like, no, there won't be colors....you can't color this stuff, it's too tough). There's basically no plastic left (there was a tiny teflon button in T1) above the switch plate. Nothing but metal with 1300 degrees as the lowest rating and ceramic after you take the rings off. You can not only boil the core, you can
torch it if you want. All you want, although I can't see why you might want to.
As we guessed improved insulation has allowed them to lower the power a lot. Values I'll be testing are in the range of 1/3 to 1/2 the power of T1 based on their tests of the one working final unit (some of who's parts are now in my test unit....). The battery is 2900 mAh so the 'five times the battery life' seems quite possilbe. Remember since were going to be in the 'one to two C' current level with this we'll get closer to 'nameplate capacity' from the battery (beating them up like T1 does costs capacity, in SV we only got 500 mAh of the promised 700).
Anyway, that's the good news/bad news on the topic. I've got the first Beta unit and broke it already. Hopefully TV is still on track to get the last few details worked out (like final power for the heater, color coding on the safety switch, decision on the switch shaft heads, etc) in time for the expected release date. This is a radically different beast in design details and construction. Lots fewer parts, very little metal (and that mostly SS not plated Aluminum) and more 'off the shelf' parts (like standard screws). They've done a bang up job IMO, and have paid the big bucks for tooling for ten total custom Zirconia parts.....and that ain't cheap or easy to change.
BTW, some of those Zirconia parts are used 'as fired', some get machined 'green' (dried but not fired into final crystal form) then fired.
My initial take is TV just rendered all their previous products, good as they are, obsolete. This sucker is built to last and work hard. A wonderful thing to behold, really. Elegant.
I'm really excited about the oil version, hopefully that's early next week.
Happy Thanksgiving to all, I've got to get back to taking it apart and putting it back together some more. So cool.
OF