The Vapbong from Art of vapor

BestBuds

The Dude
If I owned AoV I would give you 50% a real unit in exchange for the fake (or a steal of a deal on a b-stock). That's well worth the price to get a fake off the market. Especially compared to potential reputation damage.

The real deal, on the other hand, is just crazy good. I don't think I will ever want another desktop as long as this is VVÖRKIIING!
 
What is the shelf life on these coils?


so i spoke with AoV directly and after showing them pictures and videos, they said that unfortunately its an old vapbong, not made by them, but made by someone, that doesnt work for them anymore, because of quality issues. he built it 2.5 years ago. so basically its a faulty vape, they dont build it like that anymore. they have been very sweet, but they cant do anything about it. which i understand.
the guy i bought it from claimed he only used it a couple of times, this is where the problem started. well see, if hes willing to take it back. i doubt paypal G&S will do something about it, as their policy on vaporizers would contradict that.
at least it wasnt a user error, that would have been quite stupid with such an easy to use vaporizer. i gotta chalk it up and wait for a real/ actually well made one.

Sorry to hear. One time I bought a Puffco Peak second hand it was so gross when I received it. It wasn't clean and the guy wrapped it in a pair of tighty whities, LOL. I was pretty pissed. I replaced what I could and resold it. I know I took a loss, but whatever. I remember there was someone on reddit complaining of a second hand Woodscents smelling like cat piss. Sometimes you get unlucky. Not your fault man and I am sorry that you are probably out some cash.
 

Texus

Well-Known Member
@cptofnthng Sorry, that sucks. Especially since you did nothing 'wrong'. Damn. hey, stupid question, but... Does yours have a carb hole you're maybe not covering?

Also, if you can figure out pics, I'd love to see it. Even if it's old and worn out (like me) it might still be interesting and able to do SOMEthing.
Yeah, or even better, a video would help.
 
Texus,
  • Like
Reactions: notams

cptofnthng

Well-Known Member
If I owned AoV I would give you 50% a real unit in exchange for the fake (or a steal of a deal on a b-stock). That's well worth the price to get a fake off the market. Especially compared to potential reputation damage.

The real deal, on the other hand, is just crazy good. I don't think I will ever want another desktop as long as this is VVÖRKIIING!
i would do that too. but i also understand its not their problem directly.
the seller was very rude and cursed me and the world, so no money back the easy way, ive contacted PayPal GS, now there is a 3 week window to work out things, i dont know what happens If we cant work it out. its not as easy as suggested: Just send it back doesnt work.
as for pictures and videos: i even downloaded the imgur app,registered, but it doesnt work.
any other hoster ideas?
its a 2 minute video. (in german)
differences apparently visible for Axel from AoV are the cable Tunnel and the movement freedom of the eye, once socketed apparently it should barely move at all.
btw: yes, it does have a corn hole, i managed to cover it during my trials. although i have very Edward scissorhands Like Long and thin fingers.
i cranked the voltage Up to full as well, still only very little vapor and the heating element gets too hot to touch even for a split second.
 
Last edited:
cptofnthng,
  • Like
Reactions: notams

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
i would do that too. but i also understand its not their problem directly.
the seller was very rude and cursed me and the world, so no money back the easy way, ive contacted PayPal GS, now there is a 3 week window to work out things, i dont know what happens If we cant work it out. its not as easy as suggested: Just send it back doesnt work.
as for pictures and videos: i even downloaded the imgur app,registered, but it doesnt work.
any other hoster ideas?
its a 2 minute video. (in german)
differences apparently visible for Axel from AoV are the cable Tunnel and the movement freedom of the eye, once socketed apparently it should barely move at all.
btw: yes, it does have a corn hole, i managed to cover it during my trials. although i have very Edward scissorhands Like Long and thin fingers.
i cranked the voltage Up to full as well, still only very little vapor and the heating element gets too hot to touch even for a split second.

No need to use the app, just go to imgur website on phone like FC. or you can also use imgbb.com and paste bb code here without url (sorry dude, that sucks!)
 
Shit Snacks,

cptofnthng

Well-Known Member
lets try this:


i see that without sound and Cut by imgur it might not really be helpful.
what i recorded was me trying to Hit it 3 times with barely any visible vapor. i Loaded about 0.2/0.3, enough to cover the hole screen. preheated about 45 minutes with 12V, also hit@12V
 

Vapefanatic

Well-Known Member
Location specific laws may differ but I don't really see the point of discussing this. Sorry for sounding like a dick. We're in the Vapdong thread after all lol.

The way I see it, the seller didn't even bother cleaning it. First warning sign. I'd have sent it back right then. Then again, I'd never buy a used one but that's just me. Especially at 300 bucks, as I paid lesser, shipped, for a new OAB (during sales of course).

Please do a chargeback if you used CC. Escalate your dispute in PayPal. For G&S, you can return it. Don't let that fucking scammer get away with it too. Do what you can to expose that asshole. If the guy pulls something like this in my neck of the woods, he'd have a minimum broken leg. Minimum… :rofl: :rofl:
 

cptofnthng

Well-Known Member
CC?
man. i really tried politely to return it, explaining what i learned from AoV, but he claims its working fine and im the problem, so he wont take it back, insulting AoV at the same time. i already opened a dispute Claim on PayPal. He threatened with lawyers already. im relaxed anyway, These Things happen. my used Tetra p80 on the other Hand was in perfect shape and i still dig it. but now psychologically defeated i want a vapdong even more, even though mine sux.
and youre right, lesson learned here. that was the Last vape i bought used. but considering it was advertized as such a sturdy, no maintenance, good for forever device, i figured it was worth the risk of buying it used at the time.
Captain hindsight sends his greetings.
 

Vapefanatic

Well-Known Member
CC?
man. i really tried politely to return it, explaining what i learned from AoV, but he claims its working fine and im the problem, so he wont take it back, insulting AoV at the same time. i already opened a dispute Claim on PayPal. He threatened with lawyers already. im relaxed anyway, These Things happen. my used Tetra p80 on the other Hand was in perfect shape and i still dig it. but now psychologically defeated i want a vapdong even more, even though mine sux.
and youre right, lesson learned here. that was the Last vape i bought used. but considering it was advertized as such a sturdy, no maintenance, good for forever device, i figured it was worth the risk of buying it used at the time.
Captain hindsight sends his greetings.
CC means credit card btw
 
Vapefanatic,

Zuhdj

Charles Mingus
CC?
man. i really tried politely to return it, explaining what i learned from AoV, but he claims its working fine and im the problem, so he wont take it back, insulting AoV at the same time. i already opened a dispute Claim on PayPal. He threatened with lawyers already. im relaxed anyway, These Things happen. my used Tetra p80 on the other Hand was in perfect shape and i still dig it. but now psychologically defeated i want a vapdong even more, even though mine sux.
and youre right, lesson learned here. that was the Last vape i bought used. but considering it was advertized as such a sturdy, no maintenance, good for forever device, i figured it was worth the risk of buying it used at the time.
Captain hindsight sends his greetings.
If someone needs 300$ so bad that they’ll send a broken dirty vape to you, they have no lawyers. Do everything to get your money back. If PayPal won’t handle it the go to your bank and talk to them. And nice reference there ;) Thank god we have hindsight So we know what we should’ve done.
 

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member

After watching you rotate the nut freely in place, I'm guessing it's an air path issue and you're sucking in too much fresh air with the hot.

You might want to find some high temp silicone, run a good bead around the nut while its cool and press it into place creating a sort of gasket where the sides mate. Once it's cured, if you can pull it off carefully and get to stay in place on one side you should have a decent seal and be able to see if that helps?
 

cptofnthng

Well-Known Member
After watching you rotate the nut freely in place, I'm guessing it's an air path issue and you're sucking in too much fresh air with the hot.

You might want to find some high temp silicone, run a good bead around the nut while its cool and press it into place creating a sort of gasket where the sides mate. Once it's cured, if you can pull it off carefully and get to stay in place on one side you should have a decent seal and be able to see if that helps?
that is what i will do, If that dispute doesnt work itself out. good Idea man.
but i heard good things about paypals G&S. i think they even kept the money for now somehow. and AoV promised an OAB reservation for the next batch as consolidation. (not for free obv)
but they werent interested in taking that thing Off the Market.
 

Texus

Well-Known Member
Yeah. I was thinking about a similar sort of fix. Something like Surgru might work too. I'd start at the bottom. And with the unglazed lip on the ball whatever you do there will remain out of the airpath.
 
Texus,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
Good luck @cptofnthng! Yeah legally they do not have a leg to stand on, so that's hilarious they would threaten with lawyers, like for what?? Not that I know German law, but still, even if the thing was broken during shipping, that would be more his fault than yours!
 

Jaxel

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Dear ones, sorry. I was not in here for some time now. You have noticed by now that we also have to change the name. Daniel has already submitted the change notarially. We can no longer use our previous packaging in the direction of America. Since we want that each Vapo arrives safely with you. Nothing should conclude on a Vapo. We will also have to change the name Vapbong. Canada we will also change. We do not have wooden boxes for a very long time. Here in Portugal, we can't store them well enough. These have unfortunately warped quickly due to the high humidity. Dear ones, you can also write Axel or me directly on Telegram should we not respond here. Or also Daniel via EMail. We will answer everything with pleasure. We have planned to show you in the form of a video, how a Vapo is created. In time lapse otherwise the video goes weeks. But briefly summarized: Each herb head must be pre-built and already dried through before he then comes to the Vapo. Axel has already prepared for the next batch. Then he starts, there he must adapt to the weather conditions. So he always builds differently. In the summer, the clay dries during construction and in the winter it is partly too wet to process. So, when he has finished building a vapo, it has to dry through. When it is dry, the ground is controlled. Sometimes it warps as it dries. Then it must be straightened. In addition, the vapo can now be washed out. It must then be dried again. Then it can be fired. After firing, we have to grind and wash the vapos and check again if the bottom is still straight. Then we pour them with inner glaze and clean them again. Only then can I glaze. Before I apply the first layer of glaze, I go over the vapo again with a wet rag. After glazing, I clean again. Since there must not be paint everywhere and the tuning works well. Then he goes into the glaze firing and we are afraid every time. Unfortunately, not only the crystals are different from the amount, the intensity of the colors different, no also other factors change in the glazes and sometimes we just stand there speechless when we open the fire..... So, after the glaze firing, we leave them for another day. The bandits still like to work. Also now the floors are checked again. Then Axel can start with the tuning. This means that the head must be ground in such a way that it fits perfectly and the Vapo steams as best as possible. After tuning, we test each Vapo. After that, it's back to cleaning. We wipe out the herb ball and clean the vase. Then we pack. And the whole thing for two pallets. I wanted to let you have a part in it. Be greeted sweetly Janine
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
Dear ones, sorry. I was not in here for some time now. You have noticed by now that we also have to change the name. Daniel has already submitted the change notarially. We can no longer use our previous packaging in the direction of America. Since we want that each Vapo arrives safely with you. Nothing should conclude on a Vapo. We will also have to change the name Vapbong. Canada we will also change. We do not have wooden boxes for a very long time. Here in Portugal, we can't store them well enough. These have unfortunately warped quickly due to the high humidity. Dear ones, you can also write Axel or me directly on Telegram should we not respond here. Or also Daniel via EMail. We will answer everything with pleasure. We have planned to show you in the form of a video, how a Vapo is created. In time lapse otherwise the video goes weeks. But briefly summarized: Each herb head must be pre-built and already dried through before he then comes to the Vapo. Axel has already prepared for the next batch. Then he starts, there he must adapt to the weather conditions. So he always builds differently. In the summer, the clay dries during construction and in the winter it is partly too wet to process. So, when he has finished building a vapo, it has to dry through. When it is dry, the ground is controlled. Sometimes it warps as it dries. Then it must be straightened. In addition, the vapo can now be washed out. It must then be dried again. Then it can be fired. After firing, we have to grind and wash the vapos and check again if the bottom is still straight. Then we pour them with inner glaze and clean them again. Only then can I glaze. Before I apply the first layer of glaze, I go over the vapo again with a wet rag. After glazing, I clean again. Since there must not be paint everywhere and the tuning works well. Then he goes into the glaze firing and we are afraid every time. Unfortunately, not only the crystals are different from the amount, the intensity of the colors different, no also other factors change in the glazes and sometimes we just stand there speechless when we open the fire..... So, after the glaze firing, we leave them for another day. The bandits still like to work. Also now the floors are checked again. Then Axel can start with the tuning. This means that the head must be ground in such a way that it fits perfectly and the Vapo steams as best as possible. After tuning, we test each Vapo. After that, it's back to cleaning. We wipe out the herb ball and clean the vase. Then we pack. And the whole thing for two pallets. I wanted to let you have a part in it. Be greeted sweetly Janine

Thank you Janine! Always love your posts here and this was a great one, the process is more or less as I expected from my own experience with ceramics so I'm not surprised how long it takes, but very impressed with all of your work and dedication! Since both of mine are built by you, and my third Tahiti Grape (I guess my fourth as well, still so sad the third was broken in shipping, but look forward to its return!) I know that all your hard work really pays off in the final product because mine are just wonderful all around!! Be well :D
 

NimChimpsky

Well-Known Member
So I don't like doing long ones, but I have an interesting experiment I wanted to share that has given me some clarity and I think will help some folks here.

I got a couple new vapes recently so went several days without firing up my VB/OAB (for the first time since I got them - I should note I am VERY careful/delicate with my VBs during use and not, including the cord - like I take care not to let it move around too much near where it connects to the VB. Also, do I call then Vapos now??)

Was super excited to have a session with my OAB. I set it to 11.2V, had a good session but noticed the hits weren't quite as big and the AVB was significantly lighter than usual. No bother.. I guess it has been a little colder this week? Turn it up to 11.8. Darker, but still not near as dark as it normally would be at this voltage. Whatevs, maybe a power supply issue - I've had one fail before, but this one was at least displaying everything normally.. I'll try my backup VVPS tmrw (today). This afternoon fired her up again with the new power supply with a good 1.5 hr soak to a stable 11.9V. I milked the bowl for every last drop, like until absolutely no vapor with the lightest draw possible. AVB was still very light.. Ok, somethings not right.. I looked inside the heater and everything looked normal and glowing.. heater nut is hot.. the heater coil is a little tilted to one side, but I think it's always been this way and im not a big believer that its placement makes a big difference in performance, if really at all. I wasn't going to stick anything in there to try to try move it (especially while on), but I noticed there was a little give to the cord so I very delicately pulled the cord out a little bit (maybe 1/2 to 1cm) and noticed the heating element centered up and went back up into the heater (further away from the herb) the same length that I pulled it. Aight.. let's see.. I put the same bowl on that I had just milked. BOOM. Huge hit, nearly combusted. OK... I'm on to something here.

Repeated the experiment exactly. First time with the heater in original (tilted) position 11.9V. Milk it till nothing comes out. Then take a few hits with the same bowl with new heater position (cord pulled out slightly).

Here's the pics of the heater before and after, as well as the AVB before and after:


The third pic is a another bowl I did at 11.6V with the new heater position. The pic doesn't do justice to how done that bowl is - it was BLACK. Like I will def be turning down the voltage more.

My Theory:
While the tilt vs centering might make some difference, the big thing I think is how 'far back' the heating element (coil) is. The further back it is, the closer it is to the hole that the air passes through, minimizing the gap between that hole and the heating element - effectively forcing the air to pass closer to the coil, making it hotter.

I should add that, even with the reduced heat, the experience was still great, I just see now there is definitely a lot of wasted thermal energy if the heater isn't 'tuned' correctly (i.e. if the heater is placed optimally you can get the same or better outcome at lower voltages).

I should also note that my VB/OAB were both made by @Jaxel . I totally believe they test and tune all their devices and mine are among my most treasured possessions. I think what might be happening is that, for some units, during shipping the pressure from the packaging/bubble wrap maybe pushes the cord a bit to either untune it slightly, or 'loosen the tune' so the heating element is more susceptible to movement as the cord moves.

I have pulled the cord out to where it's pretty snugly in the 'new' position, not using too much force, and it is running beautifully (now at lower voltages).

I am not completely confident that my theory above is true, but I am 100% sure that heater placement as I describe makes a considerable difference (which, again, is contrary to my original belief). I took great care to make sure the oven nut was completely sealed each hit so that wouldn't be a variable.

I am also not suggesting people start fiddling with their VB heaters, or tugging on their cords, especially if they are getting the results they want - but if you find you are having to go 12V+ to get darker AVB, this info might help you, but you might want to get a 2nd opinion from the makers themselves before messing with anything like I did!

Love you guys @Jaxel - looking forward to what the future holds for you and the team!
 
Last edited:

Vapefanatic

Well-Known Member
So I don't like doing long ones, but I have an interesting experiment I wanted to share that has given me some clarity and I think will help some folks here.

I got a couple new vapes recently so went several days without firing up my VB/OAB (for the first time since I got them - I should note I am VERY careful/delicate with my VBs during use and not, including the cord - like I take care not to let it move around too much near where it connects to the VB. Also, do I call then Vapos now??)

Was super excited to have a session session my OAB. I set it to11.2V, had a good session but noticed the hits weren't quite as big and the AVB was significantly lighter than usual. No bother.. I guess it has been a little colder this weekend? Turn it up to 11.8. Darker, but still not near as dark as it normally would be at this voltage. Whatevs, maybe a power supply issue - I've had one fail before, but this one was at least displaying everything normally.. I'll try my backup VVPS tmrw (today). This afternoon fired her up again with the new power supply with a good 1.5 hr soak to a stable 11.9V. I milked the bowl for every last drop, like until absolutely no vapor with the lightest draw possible. AVB was still very light.. Ok, somethings not right.. I looked inside the heater and everything looked normal and glowing.. heater nut is hot.. the heater coil is a little tilted to one side, but I think it's always been this way and im not a big believer that heater placement makes a big difference in performance, if really at all. I wasn't going to stick anything in there to try to try move it (especially while on), but I noticed there was a little give to the cord so I very delicately pulled the cord out a little bit (maybe 1/2 to 1cm) and noticed the heater centered up and went back up into the heater (further away from the herb) the same length that I pulled it. Aight.. let's see.. I put the same bowl on that I had just milked. BOOM. Huge hit, nearly combusted. OK... I'm on to something here.

Repeated the experiment exactly. First time with the heater in original (tilted) position 11.9V. Milk it till nothing comes out. Then take a few hits with the same bowl with new heater position (cord pulled out slightly).

Here's the pics of the heater before and after, as well as the AVB before and after:


The third pic is a another bowl I did at 11.6V with the new heater position. The pic doesn't do justice to how done that bowl is - it was BLACK. Like I will def be turning down the voltage more.

My Theory:
While the heater tilt vs centering makes some difference, the big thing I think is how 'far back' the heating element is. The further back it is, the closer it is to the hole that the air passes through, minimizing the gap between that hole and the heating element - effectively forcing the air to pass closer to the heater, making it hotter.

I should add that, even with the reduced heat, the experience was still great, I just see now there is definitely a lot of wasted thermal energy if the heater isn't 'tuned' correctly (i.e. if the heater is placed optimally you can get the same or better outcome at lower voltages).

I should also note that my VB/OAB were both made by @Jaxel . I totally believe they test and tune all their devices and mine are among my most treasured possessions. I think what might be happening is that, for some units, during shipping the pressure from the packaging/bubble wrap maybe pushes the cord a bit to either untune it slightly, or 'loosen the tune' so the heating element is more susceptible to movement as the cord moves.

I have pulled the cord out to where it's pretty snugly in the 'new' position, not using too much force, and it is running beautifully (now at lower voltages - still experimenting).

I am not completely confident that my theory above is true, but I am 100% sure that heater placement as I describe makes a considerable difference (which, again, is contrary to my original belief). I took great care to make sure the oven nut was completely sealed each hit so that wouldn't be a variable.

I am also not suggesting people start fiddling with their VB heaters, or tugging on their cords, especially if they are getting the results they want with it - but if you find you are having to go 12V+ to get darker AVB, this info might help you, but you might want to get a 2nd opinion from the makers themselves before messing with anything like I did!

Love you guys @Jaxel - looking forward to what the future holds for you and the team!
Makes a lot of sense. Now I understand why my heater seems to change position slightly every now and then when I looked. Fortunately for me, it never affected performance.

After reading Janine's post, I'm starting to get a feel of how the VB works. As I expected, the magic is in the heater head. I used to think the heater is just a bowl housing the kanthal wrapped ceramic element. But it didn't make sense because of how much vapor that can be produced in a hit. I'm no engineer but do own quite some Vapes, and have learned some from the research that comes with these purchases. If the VB is as simple as hot air passing through a ceramic element, why can't some of my similar vapes do the same?

Then I started to tap the bowl and heater with my fingers and found the heater to be rather solid inside. There's much more than just a kanthal wrapped ceramic element inside there. This is why it has to be made separately. There are certain parts that needs precision and I'm guessing AOV has molds for those parts. It is really quite unlikely that everything is 100% handmade. For our sake, I really hope it isn't lol.

Which brings me to my ultimate guess. I should've figured it out earlier but as I'm not an experienced Bong user, it took me some time to figure it out, although not completely. The heater head has a Diffuser in it. Or at least something that slows down the hot air. As open as the VapBong is, there is no way incoming air passes through the heater head without some kinda obstruction. Otherwise, we wouldn't get the kinda hits we do. Just don't make sense LMAO.

I don't expect AOV to reveal anything. I wouldn't If I was them. Just pretty curious is all lol
 

Abysmal Vapor

Saturnine in my mind
Makes a lot of sense. Now I understand why my heater seems to change position slightly every now and then when I looked. Fortunately for me, it never affected performance.

After reading Janine's post, I'm starting to get a feel of how the VB works. As I expected, the magic is in the heater head. I used to think the heater is just a bowl housing the kanthal wrapped ceramic element. But it didn't make sense because of how much vapor that can be produced in a hit. I'm no engineer but do own quite some Vapes, and have learned some from the research that comes with these purchases. If the VB is as simple as hot air passing through a ceramic element, why can't some of my similar vapes do the same?

Then I started to tap the bowl and heater with my fingers and found the heater to be rather solid inside. There's much more than just a kanthal wrapped ceramic element inside there. This is why it has to be made separately. There are certain parts that needs precision and I'm guessing AOV has molds for those parts. It is really quite unlikely that everything is 100% handmade. For our sake, I really hope it isn't lol.

Which brings me to my ultimate guess. I should've figured it out earlier but as I'm not an experienced Bong user, it took me some time to figure it out, although not completely. The heater head has a Diffuser in it. Or at least something that slows down the hot air. As open as the VapBong is, there is no way incoming air passes through the heater head without some kinda obstruction. Otherwise, we wouldn't get the kinda hits we do. Just don't make sense LMAO.

I don't expect AOV to reveal anything. I wouldn't If I was them. Just pretty curious is all lol
Smaller ceramic elements in SSV/DBV/VaporBrothers/Herb Iron etc.. are more than enough to combust,magic wand/versa infinity had the same size heating element as the VB and pulled bigger clouds than ones with smaller ceramic elements :). So that element is more than enough for the work it is doing ;). The only difference between the AOV element and the rests is that the Kanthal is not encased in the ceramic but around it . If the heater is not static and can be moved,it is very possible that this happens in transport,rather than something being not tuned.
 

Vapefanatic

Well-Known Member
Smaller ceramic elements in SSV/DBV/VaporBrothers/Herb Iron etc.. are more than enough to combust,magic wand/versa infinity had the same size heating element as the VB and pulled bigger clouds than ones with smaller ceramic elements :). So that element is more than enough for the work it is doing ;).
I guess I'm not smart enough to understand what you mean. Don't seem relevant to what I'm saying at all. Any of the above have intentional obstruction of intake air? Like a diffuser before the heater? If not, I haven't a clue why the comparison was made. Please do enlighten me though. Also didn't mention combustion once in my post.

The only difference between the AOV element and the rests is that the Kanthal is not encased in the ceramic but around it .
If you say so buddy!
 
Vapefanatic,
  • Like
Reactions: passenger

Abysmal Vapor

Saturnine in my mind
@Vapefanatic What i am pointing is that even without air diffusion and smaller size heating element you can achieve big clouds,for me there isnt "more" magic behind it. I dunno if have tried any other ceramic rod vapes,but cloud level is on par with the VB. With everyone claiming how open the airflow of the VB is ,i doubt there is much obstruction of the airpath,maybe the hole in the center of the heater just adds more area for thermal transfer to the air. Most of the vaporizers using ceramic rod,have a small air intake ,to limit airflow to a certain extent and direct it towards the rod,but airflow is pretty open on all.
 
Last edited:
Abysmal Vapor,
  • Like
Reactions: passenger

Vapefanatic

Well-Known Member
@Vapefanatic What i am pointing is that even without air diffusion and smaller size heating element you can achieve big clouds,for me there isnt "more" magic behind it. I dunno if have tried any other ceramic rod vapes,but cloud level is on par with the VB.
It's a whole different ball game when the VB has a bigger, well, everything.

Just imagine hitting a VB. Picture the air entering the bong. You've probably used it more than me. I'm sure you can feel it too. You can chug hard and fast but still get awesome vapor. Its just not possible in my mind for it to be just a normal Bong airflow. It wont woorrrrkkkk lol.

Usually bongs add percs at the water area. I believe one was added to the heater head, to slow down air passing through the ceramic element.

I really hope the manufacturer can confirm this so i don't feel like a crazy dude lol. No need to reveal any further details. I just wanna know if I'm right?
 
Top Bottom