Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

[olivianewtonjohn]

Well through lots of burning off the smell went away. Happy to be past that step!

Now I have a wisemec 3rd gen dual and loaded the latest AF with autofire capability, really love the AF box interface and the NFE/AF programs. I am going to try out @Hippie settings from the DNA guys but I am not sure if resistance should be locked in TFR mode like it should be in TCR mode? I have like 6 different profiles ready to test it out LOL wish me luck

 

[Hippie]

I've tried both, locked and unlocked, and don't think it makes any difference either way even if I adjust the resistance (which AF then automatically locks) and leave it or manually unlock it.

Incase it's not clear. Use the same resistance reading with all the profiles, which should be read when your Splinter and mod are both cold, and should also be the lowest resistance reading you see (so once you get a good reading you can just copy/pasta the same value into the other profiles).

 

[david8613]

Well through lots of burning off the smell went away. Happy to be past that step!

Now I have a wisemec 3rd gen dual and loaded the latest AF with autofire capability, really love the AF box interface and the NFE/AF programs. I am going to try out @Hippie settings from the DNA guys but I am not sure if resistance should be locked in TFR mode like it should be in TCR mode? I have like 6 different profiles ready to test it out LOL wish me luck

this is good stuff, please keep us informed and what you find out!

 

[Mr. Me2]

While I wait for my deliveries, I thought I’d ask some noob questions:

When not in use, is it okay to keep the Splinter attached to the mod?

I’m guessing that people don’t leave the stem in the Splinter when not in use, right?

Any storage suggestions?

How many baskets should I expect to go through before needing to charge the batteries (I know there is subjectivity here, but a ballpark will help set expectations)?

Anything else I should know before I get started?

I still have a wait... the mod is supposed to arrive tomorrow. I think Monday’s are Splinter shipping days, hopefully I’ll get that next week. And the batteries...

 

[vapviking]

While I wait for my deliveries, I thought I’d ask some noob questions:

When not in use, is it okay to keep the Splinter attached to the mod?

I’m guessing that people don’t leave the stem in the Splinter when not in use, right?

Any storage suggestions?

How many baskets should I expect to go through before needing to charge the batteries (I know there is subjectivity here, but a ballpark will help set expectations)?

Anything else I should know before I get started?

I still have a wait... the mod is supposed to arrive tomorrow. I think Monday’s are Splinter shipping days, hopefully I’ll get that next week. And the batteries...

I have answers to some of these. Some answers may even be correct...
I leave my Splinter attached to the mod full-time, but always take the stem out when not in use.
Battery charge life will depend a lot on use. When I use in straight power (watts) mode battery will do more bowls than perking along in cruise mode. My single battery will do 4 or more chambers when using simple power mode.
RBT doesn't restrict shipping to Mondays anymore, far as I can tell.

Some folks tend to stir the load midway for more even abv. I don't like to break up the material mid-bowl 'cause I think it's messy. To get less hot-spotting in the chamber I loosen the stem and rotate it about a third of a turn every couple of hits.

It's good if you get the mod before the Splinter, it has lots more buttons and stuff to figure out!

 

[jbm]

RBT doesn't restrict shipping to Mondays anymore, far as I can tell.

They just went back to once a week shipping on Mondays.

 

[olivianewtonjohn]

@Mr. Me2

I really think burn in instructions should be included for all vaporizers but especially the splinter (extra smelly).

Burn in instructions:

Place the unit on a mod box capable of producing 70 watts
Place a clean mouthpiece with no screen or product in the splinter
gently blow into the mouthpiece as your fire the mod at 70 watts for 10 - 15 seconds
Continue to blow into the unit for another 10-15 seconds to cool the heater and clear any volatilizes from the heater chamber
You will detect some odor and/or see some smoke / vapor as any contaminants burn off
Repeat the process 2-3 times with one at least 3 minutes between successive firings
Allow the unit to cool and resume use - Please allow 4 - 5 sessions for any odor or taste to mitigate

 

[jbm]

@olivianewtonjohn
I was under the impression that all RBT vapes get a burn in before shipping. @RBTcole, is this still true?

 

[bossman]

Well through lots of burning off the smell went away. Happy to be past that step!

Now I have a wisemec 3rd gen dual and loaded the latest AF with autofire capability, really love the AF box interface and the NFE/AF programs. I am going to try out @Hippie settings from the DNA guys but I am not sure if resistance should be locked in TFR mode like it should be in TCR mode? I have like 6 different profiles ready to test it out LOL wish me luck

The V1 settings I use in myevic on the rxg3d are in the quoted post above. If it's not making vapor readily at temps in the 360 to 390° range I cheat the resistance up by a tenth and leave the other settings the same.

 

[Shit Snacks]

@olivianewtonjohn
I was under the impression that all RBT vapes get a burn in before shipping. @RBTcole, is this still true?

QC can sometimes vary with the V1 and V2s it seems. All my RBT gear has always come tasting/smelling among the purest of all my vapes in fact. The V2 had a little more factory scent, but still neutral compared to most other vapes in general... Those are good tips though.

 

[olivianewtonjohn]

The V1 settings I use in myevic on the rxg3d are in the quoted post above. If it's not making vapor readily at temps in the 360 to 390° range I cheat the resistance up by a tenth and leave the other settings the same.

Thank you, I saved it as another profile, I have some settings of yours from an earlier post with different values in another profile as well (I think). Not sure how it will transfer from mytubo to AF but will be fun to find out.

I have my own profile I keep tweaking, wattage profile, a few profiles based on what I found here, and two TFR profiles (hot and splinter).

Lots of testing to do LOL

 

[Vape weed everyday]

I find the splinter and XL8R mouthpiece opening too wide wish it was narrow like the stem pod ones.

Vapefiends cooling mouthpiece i had I didn't like cleaning it because of the bit inside made things difficult and that bit cracked, also the screen hats didn't fit.

I have seen people use dynavap rubber mouthpiece on there stems but I can't get it to fit I don't know how they do it.

In uk so any suggestions on mouthpiece with a narrow tip would be welcome although from what I have seen only Vapefiend sell anything splinter related in uk.

 

[eideal852]

I find the splinter and XL8R mouthpiece opening too wide wish it was narrow like the stem pod ones.

Vapefiends cooling mouthpiece i had I didn't like cleaning it because of the bit inside made things difficult and that bit cracked, also the screen hats didn't fit.

I have seen people use dynavap rubber mouthpiece on there stems but I can't get it to fit I don't know how they do it.

In uk so any suggestions on mouthpiece with a narrow tip would be welcome although from what I have seen only Vapefiend sell anything splinter related in uk.

Yooooo what of the new tapered mouthpieces on the rastabuddhatao.com site? Or are you meaning the “bowl”?

 

[GoldenBud]

I find the splinter and XL8R mouthpiece opening too wide wish it was narrow like the stem pod ones.

Vapefiends cooling mouthpiece i had I didn't like cleaning it because of the bit inside made things difficult and that bit cracked, also the screen hats didn't fit.

I have seen people use dynavap rubber mouthpiece on there stems but I can't get it to fit I don't know how they do it.

In uk so any suggestions on mouthpiece with a narrow tip would be welcome although from what I have seen only Vapefiend sell anything splinter related in uk.

Get a Nub, it's narrower, it's shipped from Switzerland and fits the Splinter (wide 19 length 22)
https://shop.lamart.ch/index.php?route=product/product&path=64_79&product_id=549

 

[Summer]

The OG custom Splinters in the 1st batches back in 2018 take 19/22mm joints. The current Splinters take 19/19mm.

The new tapered mps are indeed narrower.

The burn off instructions posted by @olivianewtonjohn are the official RBT instructions. Don't know if the China Splinters & Zs get burnoffs, but the US Custom ones assembled by Ryan did. Even if they do, it's a good precautionary step to take & it's easy enough to do.

Edited to add:

It looks like the dynavap fat mouthpiece seats inside the stem:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B28hw6nHYqy/?igshid=k4yryarzdh6b

 

[olivianewtonjohn]

@Summer YES, I found it in one of your posts when I was experiencing poor smell. It seemed to take much longer than the instructions suggest to completely kill the smell, most of the smell was gone but a small amount remained which affected flavor. It took some effort (not n00b friendly, a trend with the more niche/connoisseur vaporizers) but well worth the effort. Very helpful posts thank you

@bossman Your profile is currently my goto, I have to run hotter like 450F, but it fared the best so far. Do you have PID on? If so what settings? I have mine on at 1850 for P and 300 for I (default settings), there is no D setting on arctic fox.

Thanks for sharing it, I can confirm that it works well on wisemec 3rd gen dual with AF firmware.

 

[dzunk]

hello guys, i am new to splinter and i have some questions, so please excuse if my questions sound a little bit stupid. i order my splinter z last week so i dont have it yet, but i want to be prepared.

1)i would like to get a cooling mouth piece. in europe i can get either the xl8r set or cooling mouthpiece(that looks like a bubbler). i found someone on reddit who says the bubbler looking cooling mouthpiece is better. is that true? it looks very fragile to me, but i can keep it home and go out with the wooden mouthpiece if its any good

2) so i also want a wooden mouth piece, or mouth piece from any material that isnt as fragile as glass since i will be carrying my splinter and mod in my back pack. is the wooden stem cooling the vapor at least a little bit or is it better to carry around the glass stem and hope it wont get broken? i found the wooden mouthpiece only on eds website, is there any other playce to buy it? seems a lot to me to pay 40dollars+shipping for a single stem.

3)i am planning on getting rimec 3rd gen mod since i read here that its a good mod for begginers. what software should i put on it that is also good for begginers? i would like to use log mode or tcr mode.

4) is there something i should be looking out when buying batteries or can i just buy any 18560 batteries?

5)does anyone has a tip where can i buy some spare mouthpieces in europe?

 

[olivianewtonjohn]

@dzunk

I suggest a hard case like this one (you can get them in different sizes) then put the case in your bag:

https://www.amazon.com/CLOUD-TEN-Mouthpiece-Charger-Stirring/dp/B0773XT9B7

When I'm out and about I use the fury edge. Splinter comes with me if I'm going to a friend's house and I use a case like that one

 

[bossman]

@bossman Your profile is currently my goto, I have to run hotter like 450F, but it fared the best so far. Do you have PID on? If so what settings? I have mine on at 1850 for P and 300 for I (default settings), there is no D setting on arctic fox.

PID was not enabled on my rxg3d. I enabled it now and the values already set from me borrowing from another post here were P: 600 I:850 D:0. I know nothing about that and hadn't been using it of late anyway.

You're using a V1 or a V2? What's the resistance? I increase the resistance on my Splinters until they readily making good clouds at 360°. For my V1 that's in the .24 to .25ohms range and for the V2 it's from .26 to .28ohms.

I doubt I'm creating a profile with real world temps that match my session vapes. It's more important to me to have even avb and good clouds quickly. Most of my Splinters are set to do their best work from 355 to 390°. Two of my Zs enjoy a conventional session vape temp range up to 430°. It's mostly my preference to see dark, fully extracted avb from only running my Splinter up to 390 or maybe 400°. It's for sure not scientific, I'm just fiddling until I'm feeling smooth hits on the way in and seeing dense clouds on the way out.

 

[sickmanfraud]

hello guys, i am new to splinter and i have some questions, so please excuse if my questions sound a little bit stupid. i order my splinter z last week so i dont have it yet, but i want to be prepared.

1)i would like to get a cooling mouth piece. in europe i can get either the xl8r set or cooling mouthpiece(that looks like a bubbler). i found someone on reddit who says the bubbler looking cooling mouthpiece is better. is that true? it looks very fragile to me, but i can keep it home and go out with the wooden mouthpiece if its any good

2) so i also want a wooden mouth piece, or mouth piece from any material that isnt as fragile as glass since i will be carrying my splinter and mod in my back pack. is the wooden stem cooling the vapor at least a little bit or is it better to carry around the glass stem and hope it wont get broken? i found the wooden mouthpiece only on eds website, is there any other playce to buy it? seems a lot to me to pay 40dollars+shipping for a single stem.

3)i am planning on getting rimec 3rd gen mod since i read here that its a good mod for begginers. what software should i put on it that is also good for begginers? i would like to use log mode or tcr mode.

4) is there something i should be looking out when buying batteries or can i just buy any 18560 batteries?

5)does anyone has a tip where can i buy some spare mouthpieces in europe?

I will attempt to answer your questions in order

1. This is the Nub cooling moouthpiece Sold by Lamart of Switzerland https://shop.lamart.ch/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=549 @funkyjunky ships VERY fast.

2. Vapefiend has an Eds T&T stem https://vapefiend.co.uk/products/milaana-2-splinter-stem?_pos=4&_sid=5b0d11f30&_ss=r

3. I will suggest a DNA250C as the best mod type, but they are close to $100 and hard to find. I do have an Gen 3 Dual coming but I don'thave it yet. Reach out to @bossman to answer this question.

4. Batteries you want 18650 flat top batteries I personally use the LG HG2 batteries for the most part. There are a lot of "fake" batteries so only buy from a well known source. There are some EU suggested sellers but you may need to search this thread to find the names.

5 If you mean extra glass mouthpieces I would suggest that you wait and see how you like the wood stem, the included stem and or the Nub before buying extra accessories.

 

[bossman]

3. I will suggest a DNA250C as the best mod type, but they are close to $100 and hard to find. I do have an Gen 3 Dual coming but I don'thave it yet. Reach out to @bossman to answer this question.

AliExpress has a few sellers with the Think Vape Finder for around $100usd. The one I got works well but I think the three cell size is overkill for a V1 or V2. I suggested the rxg3d to @dzunk in another thread. No need for mod upgrades at this early stage, especially considering how shit the DNAc landscape is.

 

[olivianewtonjohn]

3)i am planning on getting rimec 3rd gen mod since i read here that its a good mod for begginers. what software should i put on it that is also good for begginers? i would like to use log mode or tcr mode.

Im using arctic fox, its biggest negative is that it didnt have cruise mode but with the latest version they added it on. Not sure if it mattered but first I updated to latest wisemec firmware then used NFE tools (great manual for it showing how to use it) to install arctic fox. Was very easy (I believe I used "firmware updater" in NFE to install AF).

Profile I have from @bossman I setup using "arcticfox configuration" from NFE tools, 37W, .240 ohms (locked), Mode: Temp Control then setup and checkmark PI-Regulation (I left default values), Coil Material: TCR 135, I also like 5C/10F temp stepping instead of 1 degree at a time so I selected that too.

Then under advance tab I changed "Puff Cut-Off" to 20 seconds (this way even if I forget and leave it on at least its only 20 seconds).

Under Controls tab you can pick "Multi Clicks" and set too clicks to "autofire" now you will have cruise mode.

Then you can setup another profile for watt mode so you can play with both aspects


EDIT:

PID was not enabled on my rxg3d. I enabled it now and the values already set from me borrowing from another post here were P: 600 I:850 D:0. I know nothing about that and hadn't been using it of late anyway.

You're using a V1 or a V2? What's the resistance? I increase the resistance on my Splinters until they readily making good clouds at 360°. For my V1 that's in the .24 to .25ohms range and for the V2 it's from .26 to .28ohms.

I doubt I'm creating a profile with real world temps that match my session vapes. It's more important to me to have even avb and good clouds quickly. Most of my Splinters are set to do their best work from 355 to 390°. Two of my Zs enjoy a conventional session vape temp range up to 430°. It's mostly my preference to see dark, fully extracted avb from only running my Splinter up to 390 or maybe 400°. It's for sure not scientific, I'm just fiddling until I'm feeling smooth hits on the way in and seeing dense clouds on the way out.

Yeah I agree what the temp shows isnt that important as long as its working. I used the default PI values for now, it seems to work better with it enabled.

I have a V2 and the resting resistance is .242 and I think I had it around .240 but I played with it going up and down and couldnt really tell much of a difference, I will play with the settings more but those settings are a good starting point on AF.

I will attempt to answer your questions in order

1. This is the Nub cooling moouthpiece Sold by Lamart of Switzerland https://shop.lamart.ch/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=549 @funkyjunky ships VERY fast.

Wont this be too long if he has a 19mmX19mm glass joint?

 

[Mr. Me2]

My box mod arrived! It’s so purdy, and smaller than I expected.

But no batteries, no Splinter (yet)...

WHAT A TEASE!!!

 

[lordtinuviel]

Got a splinter z v1 (arrived last Thursday) I have a sinuous p80 & loaded arctic fox, can anyone share the settings for wattage and how to configure tcr and cruise? Thanks

 

[bossman]

Got a splinter z v1 (arrived last Thursday) I have a sinuous p80 & loaded arctic fox, can anyone share the settings for wattage and how to configure tcr and cruise? Thanks

@lordtinuviel as it happens @olivianewtonjohn just detailed his Arctic Fox settings a few posts up. You can try that on your P80 but with the resistance that's right for your V1.

Im using arctic fox, its biggest negative is that it didnt have cruise mode but with the latest version they added it on. Not sure if it mattered but first I updated to latest wisemec firmware then used NFE tools (great manual for it showing how to use it) to install arctic fox. Was very easy (I believe I used "firmware updater" in NFE to install AF).

Profile I have from @bossman I setup using "arcticfox configuration" from NFE tools, 37W, .240 ohms (locked), Mode: Temp Control then setup and checkmark PI-Regulation (I left default values), Coil Material: TCR 135, I also like 5C/10F temp stepping instead of 1 degree at a time so I selected that too.

Then under advance tab I changed "Puff Cut-Off" to 20 seconds (this way even if I forget and leave it on at least its only 20 seconds).

Under Controls tab you can pick "Multi Clicks" and set too clicks to "autofire" now you will have cruise mode.

Then you can setup another profile for watt mode so you can play with both aspects


EDIT:



Yeah I agree what the temp shows isnt that important as long as its working. I used the default PI values for now, it seems to work better with it enabled.

I have a V2 and the resting resistance is .242 and I think I had it around .240 but I played with it going up and down and couldnt really tell much of a difference, I will play with the settings more but those settings are a good starting point on AF.




Wont this be too long if he has a 19mmX19mm glass joint?