Summer
Long Island, NY
Yeah, you should have gotten a long stem & that short stem. Contact him through his website.
Discontinued The Splinter by RBT
- Thread starter RastaBuddhaTao
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Yeah, you should have gotten a long stem & that short stem. Contact him through his website.
ray_b
Well-Known Member
Thanks! What other stem options are out there? Any third party stems that fit the Splinter?
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Mine came with a short clear and a short amber stem. Have some of the long glass stems so no biggie. I tend use wooden stems with milaana and more than likely will settle in with wooden on the splinter.
420EDC has some nice short colored stem and a milaana cooling unit that should work. It's a common size so tons of choices out there.
420EDC has some nice short colored stem and a milaana cooling unit that should work. It's a common size so tons of choices out there.
@Alan makes some great wood stems Too!!!
Summer
Long Island, NY
That's beat. You gotta have a long & short stem.
420EDC also has the long Milaana 19/22 stems which are the ones used with the Splinter. If you go back through the thread there are a few pics of other glass stem being used. Any 19/22 will work,
Lholding26
Well-Known Member
I will be running my splinter with an Eleaf pico. Just waiting on my heatsink to show up.... Any advice or recommendations?
Also i am worried about the robot fart taste and smell!?!?!?
Mine also came with to of the small stems, same size.
Also i am worried about the robot fart taste and smell!?!?!?
My Splinter arrived today, haven't spent much time with it but I'm already loving it. In Power mode 26w gives me a great flavor hit. Great hits 27-29w, haven't tried higher yet. It works well in TCR mode. With tcr=260, watts=36 and temps from 380F to 400F I get very nice hits with good clouds.
So the Splinter is suppose to come with two sizes of stems? Mine came with two of what's in the pic.
Forgot to mention, I did 6-8 10 sec burn-offs, initial smell was pretty bad.
Mine also came with to of the small stems, same size.
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Lazy Lighting
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know when Ryan will offer his cooling stem in colors?
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Lucky I have a few long ones that came with milaana's so no biggie. The mod I got is copper so amber worked out. Maybe he was low on stock on glass and didn't want hold up orders?
Well mine would be fire it ups without the heatsink
Then again never been good at waiting. Really if these things can't take a few uses without stripping threads theres something wrong. The robot fart smell goes away after a stem or 2. Clean stem unit first maybe do a burn off you should be fine.
almost there
Well-Known Member
Were we suppose to get 2 stems, I only received 1 short clear stem
. Guess i’ll try my luck sending RBT a message on his site.
On a different note I’ve been loving joint packs when using the splinter thru water. It’s so much fun, I’m not into microdosing but I’m not usually a glutton either
. Guess i’ll try my luck sending RBT a message on his site. On a different note I’ve been loving joint packs when using the splinter thru water. It’s so much fun, I’m not into microdosing but I’m not usually a glutton either
ray_b
Well-Known Member
Yeah I saw the pics. That's what I thought but every 19/22 I've tried in my Splinter is loose fitting, not even close to air tight. 18mm GooG from Alan for my HI is a sloppy fit.
IAmKrazy2
Darth Vapor
Wow this thread is moving quick. No time to catch up on others impressions at the moment but just wanted to say WOW the newest Splinter is fucking amazing.
I had two very early betas but i am noticing a huge difference in vapor quality and heat. Much cooler, very impressive.
I had two very early betas but i am noticing a huge difference in vapor quality and heat. Much cooler, very impressive.
Looks like I'm the one idiot here that can't figure out what everyone else seems to with ease. Sigh
I am attempting to use this with an Evic VTC mini. Up to now I have zero experience with these boxes.
I tried setting it to some of the wattage people were listing here. I hit the little button, let it heat up for 9 seconds, hit the button again and start my draw. I've tried variations of this, longer heat up, shorter heat up, less watts, more watts, different battery. Out of 10 times packing the short stem or the special stem with the indentions in it I have achieved vapor on roughly 4 draws. Those times the vapor was there but wispy. Repeated the same steps, no vapor. I am getting flavor at times. It hasn't been good flavor like I'd experience with the Mighty or the Fury 2.
The glass stem is definitely getting hot. The herb is green or sometimes about as brown as what you would see if you emptied your dynavap after one drag.
I thought maybe I should hook the Evic to my computer and try putting in software from FJ. My computer doesn't see the unit.
I am using ground dry herb at about a medium/fine grind.
So many people are loving this device that I know it is 100% me. This makes me very nervous about the Tuboevic I ordered since it will be similar. It is likely I have some setting wrong on the device itself but wouldn't know which.
I need to be able to demonstrate this device to others in a few days and can't. Help?
I'll post a few pics in the hopes that some noob mistake I'm making jumps out that someone can correct me on.
This is the stem with material in it AFTER a pre-heated 9 seconds at 40, then dropped to 30 and took 10 pulls varied from light to hard. The glass and my lips got warm/very warm. The color of the herb in the stem isn't drastically changed from the color of the material put in.
Here is a close up of the stem. Maybe I'm loading it wrong?
Here are two pics of the Evic. Is there something wrong there?
scion34
Well-Known Member
@HughJundys you should be achieving decent vapor with those settings, do any errors flash across the screen while you hold the fire button? I’d tell ya to try it on another mod to determine if it’s the Splinter or just your Evic.
Smoke1ForMe
Well-Known Member
All your settings seem to be right, wattage is pretty high so you should definitely be getting vapor.
Maybe you are drawing too fast? Is this your first RBT vape? Start with a slow draw and once you start feeling the heat you can hit it harder and then let off the button once it gets hot but continue to hit it for a few more seconds. This is the technique that works best for me with all RBT vapes. If that doesn’t work then you might need to contact RBT for a repair.
I don't think I get an error message. It is hard to see the screen when I am pulling a drag from the stem. There isn't one shown when I look at it immediate after.
It is a shame to buy another box when only one is needed. I don't have friends, other than you fine folks, that use these devices so I suppose I don't have a choice. To eliminate that the next box is the culprit is there a sure fire brand and model that just works nearly every time right out of the box?
This is my first RBT vape. My experience is coming from the Mighty and Dynavaps.
I have tried a light drag and a hard drag. I hold the button down, start my drag, and count in my head to about 8 seconds, let go of the button, press it again, and continue my pull for another 4-5 seconds. I can feel it getting hotter as time progresses. It has only once been so hot that I let go of the button and continued my draw without button press. I have tried the short stem and the cool indented stem.
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Smoke1ForMe
Well-Known Member
What wattage are you hitting at? 30? Maybe try going to 35? Idk on my mod I only need to go to 25 watts to finish a bowl. The coil resistance is about where mine normally is cold.
Check in the mirror to make sure the mod is firing when you hit it. Sometimes it will ask if it’s a new coil always say yes so it reads the current resisitance. There aren’t any other troubleshoots I can think of.
AJS
Calm Consistency
@HughJundys
A surefire way to nearly guarantee vapor....
Set Wattage to 30 (I do 27, every mod is different, maybe you need 35), 30 is a good average start and a tad on the hotter side.
Pack a stem lightly 80% full. Tamp down just enough to keep the herb in place.
Don't start with temp control. Stay in Wattage. TC needs extra values to be set depending on the mod, and we want to narrow our variables down as much as possible.
So start around 30W with that described light packing style. Load stem in Splinter. Hold firing button for about 5 seconds before drawing, continue holding button and draw slowly, at about 20% (or slower) inhale speed, for about 15 seconds (can slightly increase speed towards the end). At the start of your draw itll feel slightly cold and slowly ramp up through the hit until within about 5 seconds of drawing you feel the warm resin form in your mouth as the terpenes are vaped. You should get awesome flavor and maybe whispy to decent vapor on this first hit.
Don't wait more than 30 seconds, right away go back and repeat the first hit ... 5 second preheat, long slow draw, etc. this time you should really feel the heat and vapor pouring in. Don't forget to preheat using the same technique as the first hit.
Do this again for the 3rd hit, waiting no more than a minute or so between hits. This will guarantee your vape is hot and your technique is solid. You should definitely absolutely without question be getting vapor by this point. If not either your technique is just so incredibly off, your mod runs cold (turn Wattage higher), or you have one of the first dysfunctional Splinters (at which case congrats, you just made sure no one got that issue ever again, it sucks but it's for the good of the people).
Keep in mind, the Splinter does not require this specific of a technique to get vapor, I can get massive clouds from cold starts if I want, but I know for a fact this will get you vapor and will help narrow down the variable effecting your performance, whether its mod, technique, Splinter, etc.
Bonus tip:
As last resort. Not something RBT will necessarily recommend ...
Set your Wattage between 30-35. Go in a super dark room and cup your hand over the Splinter to reduce any bit of light that gets in. Hold the firing button (without stem). Within 7 seconds or so you should see a very faint glow starting. Do not let this get to RED. The second you see the glow let off the trigger. This is just to test that your heater is getting hot enough at this Wattage. If nothing shows even after 10-15 seconds on 30-35 watts, maybe your mod is running cold. But if you see the glow, you know it is working properly and it is most likely user error or something else.
Bonus tip #2:
Shine a phone light close up to the stem as you hit. You can see the vapor forming this way and really helps understand when vapor production starts. Pair the visual aspect of the vapor with the physical feedback you feel in your mouth. Will help you fine tune your session. Keep in mind vapor won't start instantly. Takes about 5 seconds of drawing as the herb soaks in the hot air. Remember the material has to go from room temp to about 360 or so before you start seeing vapor, takes a few seconds.
If your vape is functional, we won't let you leave this thread without getting awesome vapor. Don't you worry!
_______
Off topic from that ... the cooling stem is fucking phenomenal. The RBT stock stems would always give me super harsh throat hits, the cooling stem I can crank up the temp and feel almost nothing at all. The feedback is nice with the Milaana, but with the Splinter I just set the Wattage I like and let the cooling xl8r stem do its magic. Super flavorful, comfortable, cool hits. Love it. Honestly such a game changer with RBT vapes. Highly recommended.
A surefire way to nearly guarantee vapor....
Set Wattage to 30 (I do 27, every mod is different, maybe you need 35), 30 is a good average start and a tad on the hotter side.
Pack a stem lightly 80% full. Tamp down just enough to keep the herb in place.
Don't start with temp control. Stay in Wattage. TC needs extra values to be set depending on the mod, and we want to narrow our variables down as much as possible.
So start around 30W with that described light packing style. Load stem in Splinter. Hold firing button for about 5 seconds before drawing, continue holding button and draw slowly, at about 20% (or slower) inhale speed, for about 15 seconds (can slightly increase speed towards the end). At the start of your draw itll feel slightly cold and slowly ramp up through the hit until within about 5 seconds of drawing you feel the warm resin form in your mouth as the terpenes are vaped. You should get awesome flavor and maybe whispy to decent vapor on this first hit.
Don't wait more than 30 seconds, right away go back and repeat the first hit ... 5 second preheat, long slow draw, etc. this time you should really feel the heat and vapor pouring in. Don't forget to preheat using the same technique as the first hit.
Do this again for the 3rd hit, waiting no more than a minute or so between hits. This will guarantee your vape is hot and your technique is solid. You should definitely absolutely without question be getting vapor by this point. If not either your technique is just so incredibly off, your mod runs cold (turn Wattage higher), or you have one of the first dysfunctional Splinters (at which case congrats, you just made sure no one got that issue ever again, it sucks but it's for the good of the people).
Keep in mind, the Splinter does not require this specific of a technique to get vapor, I can get massive clouds from cold starts if I want, but I know for a fact this will get you vapor and will help narrow down the variable effecting your performance, whether its mod, technique, Splinter, etc.
Bonus tip:
As last resort. Not something RBT will necessarily recommend ...
Set your Wattage between 30-35. Go in a super dark room and cup your hand over the Splinter to reduce any bit of light that gets in. Hold the firing button (without stem). Within 7 seconds or so you should see a very faint glow starting. Do not let this get to RED. The second you see the glow let off the trigger. This is just to test that your heater is getting hot enough at this Wattage. If nothing shows even after 10-15 seconds on 30-35 watts, maybe your mod is running cold. But if you see the glow, you know it is working properly and it is most likely user error or something else.
Bonus tip #2:
Shine a phone light close up to the stem as you hit. You can see the vapor forming this way and really helps understand when vapor production starts. Pair the visual aspect of the vapor with the physical feedback you feel in your mouth. Will help you fine tune your session. Keep in mind vapor won't start instantly. Takes about 5 seconds of drawing as the herb soaks in the hot air. Remember the material has to go from room temp to about 360 or so before you start seeing vapor, takes a few seconds.
If your vape is functional, we won't let you leave this thread without getting awesome vapor. Don't you worry!
_______
Off topic from that ... the cooling stem is fucking phenomenal. The RBT stock stems would always give me super harsh throat hits, the cooling stem I can crank up the temp and feel almost nothing at all. The feedback is nice with the Milaana, but with the Splinter I just set the Wattage I like and let the cooling xl8r stem do its magic. Super flavorful, comfortable, cool hits. Love it. Honestly such a game changer with RBT vapes. Highly recommended.
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IAmKrazy2
Darth Vapor
I'll post a few pics in the hopes that some noob mistake I'm making jumps out that someone can correct me on.
This is the stem with material in it AFTER a pre-heated 9 seconds at 40, then dropped to 30 and took 10 pulls varied from light to hard. The glass and my lips got warm/very warm. The color of the herb in the stem isn't drastically changed from the color of the material put in.
Here is a close up of the stem. Maybe I'm loading it wrong?
Here are two pics of the Evic. Is there something wrong there?
Probably no help but have you tried taking off the splinter and than screwing it back on again? Maybe a poor connection?
AJS
Calm Consistency
I told RBT about the burn ins. He told me to tell you all this:
"In processing the last batch of Splinter some of the units did not pass through the burn-in test. Please use the following process to safely and effectively burn-in your Splinter or send it back to RBT for processing. This escape has been root caused and will not happen again. All units shipping to the international customers and VapeFiend have been 100% verified. Thanks for your understanding as we are just getting started up and process are still immature.
Instructions on how to burn-in your Splinter
Place the unit on a mod box capable of producing 70 watts
Place a clean mouthpiece with no screen or product in the splinter
gently blow into the mouthpiece as your fire the mod at 70 watts for 10 - 15 seconds
Continue to blow into the unit for another 10-15 seconds to cool the heater and clear any volatilizes from the heater chamber
You will detect some odor and/or see some smoke / vapor as any contaminants burn off
Repeat the process 2-3 times with one at least 3 minutes between successive firings
Allow the unit to cool and resume use - Please allow 4 - 5 sessions for any odor or taste to mitigate"
-RastaBuddhaTao
"In processing the last batch of Splinter some of the units did not pass through the burn-in test. Please use the following process to safely and effectively burn-in your Splinter or send it back to RBT for processing. This escape has been root caused and will not happen again. All units shipping to the international customers and VapeFiend have been 100% verified. Thanks for your understanding as we are just getting started up and process are still immature.
Instructions on how to burn-in your Splinter
Place the unit on a mod box capable of producing 70 watts
Place a clean mouthpiece with no screen or product in the splinter
gently blow into the mouthpiece as your fire the mod at 70 watts for 10 - 15 seconds
Continue to blow into the unit for another 10-15 seconds to cool the heater and clear any volatilizes from the heater chamber
You will detect some odor and/or see some smoke / vapor as any contaminants burn off
Repeat the process 2-3 times with one at least 3 minutes between successive firings
Allow the unit to cool and resume use - Please allow 4 - 5 sessions for any odor or taste to mitigate"
-RastaBuddhaTao
Lholding26
Well-Known Member
AJS
Calm Consistency
I believe he runs the Wattage high during burnoffs anyway. Just make sure you are blowing through the stem while on this heat just to help keep the heat down a little. Don't just let it burn at 70W, get some air moving through there as suggested. I'm sure the last thing he wants is return units for repairs so I would imagine this is safe to do for the first burnoffs. Just follow the instructions and I guess you should be good to go! lol.
Smoke1ForMe
Well-Known Member
What coil material should I select when trying to use temp control with my DNA mod for the splinter? I tried SS 316 but it just went into temp protect. Nickel 200 seems to be working but I really don't know enough about mods to know what the difference between the two is. I know on my pico I was able to change the TCR value, but it doesn't look like I have that option with the DNA.
Thanks AJS for at least acting as some conduit between consumer and manufacturer.
A couple of questions if I may..
- Are there any safety concerns about units with no burn-ins? Imagining something is safe is a bit different to knowing it right? As a person in remission for cancer, I'm not massively keen on taking risks. And presumably some people will have been using units with no burn-in for some time now? "LOL"
- If the manufacturer seemingly has no idea how many units may be affected, are customers expected to diagnose whether their unit needs one or not? And equally, how can the uninitiated be sure that they've effectively completed the burnin? "LOL"
- "The problem has been root caused".. when we're looking at a manual part of the process in an one-man production line, I imagine there wasn't far to look? "LOL"
- Do you think, in hindsight, it's appropriate to make light of a failure by a company to follow due practice when it comes to the health of the consumer? "LOL"
In my opinion, if the manufacturer really cared then every unit should be recalled and checked. Again, as a person in remission for cancer, I'm not massively keen on taking risks..
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