Discontinued The Splinter by RBT
- Thread starter RastaBuddhaTao
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BestBuds
The Dude
Gauze? Do you mean the screen inside the splinter itself? No it's not supposed to hit that. The RBT Splinter stems are 19/19 the ones off Dhgate are longer. That will not allow your stem to seal properly. I have a Dremel rotary tool and got a glass cutting wheel for it. I took an hour one day and cut down 3 stems to fit better. Most may be able to cut them faster. LolHi all
Could someone tell me if the cooling mouthpiece should hit the splinter gauze when inserted
I’ve just bought a replacement and am not quite sure that my last one did
Catnipmint
Well-Known Member
To reply for myself about too much heat. The hot spot are not at the middle, and if using any vaporizer which has proper TC not just meant for exact temperature control but to compensate the inhaling speed for stable temp. In wattage mode there arent, just heating with the WATT selected till the stars reached or blown out (in normal operation and not pulsing this wont occur). The slow drawing for even ABV and the air ,whirling' while drawing fast maybe my problem. Maybe the heater are too close for even heating, this was the problem with my Flip Brick and had to use heat shield upside down. I had an idea: using EVO baskets but without the cap, like a deeper stock screen for the Splinter. I would like to setup and use the splinter similar to EVO, foolproof if temp setted correctly.
PS: how bad are my english?
PS: how bad are my english?
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Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
To reply for myself about too much heat. The hot spot are not at the middle, and if using any vaporizer which has proper TC not just meant for exact temperature control but to compensate the inhaling speed for stable temp. In wattage mode there arent, just heating with the WATT selected till the stars reached or blown out (in normal operation and not pulsing this wont occur). The slow drawing for even ABV and the air ,whirling' while drawing fast maybe my problem. Maybe the heater are too close for even heating, this was the problem with my Flip Brick and had to use heat shield upside down. I had an idea: using EVO baskets but without the cap, like a deeper stock screen for the Splinter. I would like to setup and use the splinter similar to EVO, foolproof if temp setted correctly.
PS: how bad are my english?
We've seen far worse in these parts!
The ELB's just hold too much for me to be efficient, too deep. Maybe you could try using an internal screen and a rim screen to cap it?
But yeah with proper TCR, you might be able to get the results youre after, it will just take a lot of testing and tweaking (I wouldn't trust the basic material settings personally). If you were to buy a DNA mod, and load the profiles, you may have better luck since it will all be done for you and more precise...
Catnipmint
Well-Known Member
Precise? How much, I read opinions who liked much more RX Gen3 Dual with sur myevic or AC than some DNA, dont care if I had to tinker. If precision are in 5-10 degree I think its enough for proper full extraction, doesnt care for temp profiles. Also I know its not real temp control, just math behind resistance, not real electrodes current measuring.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Pretty much every opinion here will agree that DNA mods have more accurate temp control. @HerbieVonVapster set up FC profiles for each 510 convection vape so no guesswork. They are more money though, and yes the RXG3D is one of the nicer mods physically, so I prefer it as well with my Z but I only use wattage (typically 45w through water, 25sec aurofire on surmyevic). My V2 is on bronze RX DNA250 for temp control, but I had it on a P80 for wattage too, may switch back to that and try to configure some TC with ArcticFox since that worked well for my Imp on AsterRT (there I used MistVape's settings, but tweaked the TCR value much lower to get more accurate temps for my useage). So all I can advise is that you keep testing trial and error until you find the right TC settings for you, it can be quite tedious and have you going through lackluster bowls to get there, but it should be worth it in the end... By 10 degrees is fine too.
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
DNAc chips are the best available for Splinter use but I love my rx gen3 dual too. I tend to keep my rxg3d set with the resistance on the high side to use for rapid extraction with my V2. The DNA mods with my V1 and especially the Z are better for flavor and temp stepping in wattage or TC. When folks say "precise" about dna and dnac mods it also means the results are more consistent and repeatable. This is especially true with getting big hits without hot spots or the need for frequent stirring.
Friends, at last I've started getting consistently good results with my V2 and Paranormal. This is sick!!!! I've started with Herbie's hot profile, but changed wattage to 44W and set temp to 440F. Doing fast draws was a game changer. Thanks everyone who helped. Woo hoo! This vape is really good when you figure it out, don't give up!
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
So true. Splinter Z with a dna chip mod, at 50W gives consistent results. thick clouds without any hotspots. it works perfectly without TCR
Catnipmint
Well-Known Member
Yesterday I tried AC-s TFR316L (stock curves, without PID) with XLR8 stem and Easyflow cooling stem (much more draw resistance). But same hotspotting and scorhing, I dont know why. Tomorrow I upload some pics, what causing If my AVB using stock screen (basket) scorched in the hotspots and but there are lot of material left in green colour?
Oh and a question, why in lot of TC setups max wattage set to 40-50W if the mod only using it in the 2-15W range after it reached the setted temp? At the first couple of secs reaching the desired heat much faster, but after does it have some other benefit?
Oh and a question, why in lot of TC setups max wattage set to 40-50W if the mod only using it in the 2-15W range after it reached the setted temp? At the first couple of secs reaching the desired heat much faster, but after does it have some other benefit?
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KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
TC mode without enabling PI(D) = as crappy as stock implementation... in short: don't!
There's strictly no point in installing AF or sur_myevic if you don't enable the PI(D) regulator. Thankfully it's enabled by default in tubo_myevic.
The stock implementation is just a very crude on/off controller with no hysteresis. It's akin to trying to dim your halogen lamp by just using your wall switch and toggling it very fast...
There's strictly no point in installing AF or sur_myevic if you don't enable the PI(D) regulator. Thankfully it's enabled by default in tubo_myevic.
The stock implementation is just a very crude on/off controller with no hysteresis. It's akin to trying to dim your halogen lamp by just using your wall switch and toggling it very fast...
Catnipmint
Well-Known Member
And what PID settings to use, stock one are good in AF? TFR with PID or TCR with PID is better?
If TFR stock curves are good or what to set? Which TFR profile, I tried TFR SS316L because I'm read mostly heater is SS316L, is it correct?
Thanks for all the helps!
If TFR stock curves are good or what to set? Which TFR profile, I tried TFR SS316L because I'm read mostly heater is SS316L, is it correct?
Thanks for all the helps!
DogBoy
know fear
...that was my Splinter Experience...stirring seemed to be mandatory and difficult...
...I had to keep rotating the stem...
...I got better at it but it seemed like it was a fine line between vapor production and scorching...
This is correct.
I'll just bang this drum one more time: precise and accurate temperature control is a unicorn. There are too many other variables in the equation, so just getting the temperature in the ballpark is all anyone needs to or can do. The strain, the dampness of the load, how tightly you pack it, how fast you draw, your own state of mind... all of these vary enough to overwhelm the difference made by one or two or even five degrees.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
look here: (Scroll down a abit)
http://fuckcombustion.com/resources/splinter-tubomyevic-quick-start-guide.27/
Catnipmint
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I dont find this!
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
Which firmware have you got? Arctic Fox?
Look in your PROFILE tab.. down on the right side.. then
P 750
I 550
D 10
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
For the Splinter micro dosing folks 
Easy to do Slide in tube Splinter stem mod > 10mm/7mm OD/ID glass tube (just look for reusable boro glass straws at Amazon or elsewhere) holding a formed screen at the front end slides into the Splinter 19/19 stem. Small 15mm silicone sleeve used, to hold both tubes together.
Remove original Splinter screen; push sliding tube completly to the front; suck in herb into the business end of the sliding tube with the straw method; draw sliding tube back in half a centimeter; set in Splinter basket screen; enjoy
Herb gets captured between the two screens, so nothing can fall out. Silicone sleeve also doubles as seal for any 19mm female bong joint.
Easy to do Slide in tube Splinter stem mod > 10mm/7mm OD/ID glass tube (just look for reusable boro glass straws at Amazon or elsewhere) holding a formed screen at the front end slides into the Splinter 19/19 stem. Small 15mm silicone sleeve used, to hold both tubes together.
Remove original Splinter screen; push sliding tube completly to the front; suck in herb into the business end of the sliding tube with the straw method; draw sliding tube back in half a centimeter; set in Splinter basket screen; enjoy
Herb gets captured between the two screens, so nothing can fall out. Silicone sleeve also doubles as seal for any 19mm female bong joint.
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Catnipmint
Well-Known Member
Yes Arctic Fox, thanks.
budblue
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the response
Yes it’s hitting the splinter screen
I’ve just measured the male joint from the mouthpiece and it’s 21/22 mm
I will get back in touch with vapefiend as this is the 3rd one they have sent out
All 3 too long
and hitting the screen
an0maly
Well-Known Member
Hey guys. I just broke out my Splinter custom after not having used it for a few months. Back to trying to use it with my RX Gen3 Dual running sur_myevic. I was using TCR 165, 32W, 390F. Not so sure about the TCR value now after seeing a few posts where TCR was mentioned. I do recall not getting all that great vapor production when using the mod in TCR mode with those settings. What are good settings to use? I've been scanning through this thread and have not been able to find yet any mention of good ones.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
No you had to use 45W, TCR 120-140
Basically 32W sounds to me too low (IN TC mode), but the TCR should be closer to 120~ (SS Mesh)
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an0maly
Well-Known Member
Thanks. The lower TCR number definitely works better. I had the wattage turned down to 32W because I was using autofire.
Summer
Long Island, NY
It's kind of late to be posting this, but Ryan (buddharastatoa) has an IG stream up only for the next 3 hours. It's an 1 hour stream wherein he films within his completed RV & discusses this some, uses the G43 & Z, and discusses the new rbt bus. structure. It's a nice, laid back, & interesting stream. And pleased to note that Ryan finally got a new phone & the high def feed is great. If you can catch it in time, check it out.
So I pulled the trigger and ordered a Splinter v2 which came today. Fired it up unloaded at 35W and there was a strong plastic-y burning smell coming off of it. I did a little Googling and found some posts about doing a burn-in. I did about 6 burn-ins at 70W per RBT instructions, but there is still that burning plastic smell, albeit a lot fainter. I can definitely smell/taste it when I pull through the stem (with nothing loaded in the stem). Probably psychosomatic, but now I've got a headache.
I got this unit in search of a more pure flavor, but now I'm concerned about the smell. Not only ruining the flavor, but the health effects. Any advice? I'm thinking I probably just need to send it back before it's considered "used" and thus unreturnable...
I got this unit in search of a more pure flavor, but now I'm concerned about the smell. Not only ruining the flavor, but the health effects. Any advice? I'm thinking I probably just need to send it back before it's considered "used" and thus unreturnable...
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