Discontinued The Splinter by RBT

[vapviking]

Is the mouthpiece on the new V1 a 14mm tapered glass joint? It's hard to tell from his photo (I don't have instagram or FB access). I'm wondering if I'll be able to use direct with a 14mm glass bubbler.

 

[Summer]

@vapviking, it's a 19/19mm joint.

 

[bossman]

Where you see "Pwr" in the settings, that is to turn on power mode and keep you in Watts (it turns the cruise bar into a power bar just showing how the power rises as you hold button). There is also an option to allow you to edit what's on your main screen and you can do it there without locking yourself to power mode too

Thanks! I finally found pPwr in the Interface menu rather than in the Vaping menu where I'd previously looked.

So now I know how to switch the VTC Dual to cruise in wattage and try my Splinter as a slow and low log with the preheat and heat soke method you describe. I also found Vaping>Timer and upped that to 300s for low wattage use.

Once I'm out of the settings it still says TCR 185 M1 at the top of the screen. I remember setting M1 185 initially for the Tubo X. Is there a preferred material and... um.. 155-185 number for the Splinter or Splinter Z with this mod? Is that setting important and distinct in both TC and wattage or is it only relevant in TC?

I also found the 1Watt setting to just increment by whole numbers. Right below that was 1CSF. Still don't know what that does.

 

[vapviking]

@vapviking, it's a 19/19mm joint.

In his store, the replacement stems (short or long), at the end that goes into Splinter are described as 19/19. The first 19 is the outside diameter and, far as I can tell, the second 19 is the length of the joint. (he makes it clear elsewhere that a 'standard' length joint will not fit (too long).

My point is, I'm not sure when you say 19/19, if you are describing the V1 mouthpiece end. In his only 'sales' photo, that seems to be gone now, it's hard to tell, but it looked like the m.p. end has a taper (unlike the ones shown for Milaana, etc.)

 

[cybrguy]

The numbers always refer to the joint. 19/19 is RBT's custom size for his newer Splinters. All the others are 19/22 which is a US standard joint. The ISO standard, 19/26, are too long for any of the RBT products that I am aware of. And yes, the second number is the length of the joint.

If you are handy with glass it wouldn't hurt to take a mm off the 19/22 joints for other RBT devices in case you would like to use rimmed screens but it isn't really necessary. I haven't done it.

 

[vapviking]

Thanks, @cybrguy , this confirms what I thought about his fittings, and glass joints in general.
My main questions, though, are about the mouthpiece end of a V-1's stem. Straight or tapered? If tapered, what size?

 

[Hippie]

He posted a pic of an adapter and some new spikey xl8r stems on instagram recently
You can view them without an account here https://www.instagram.com/buddharastatao/

 

[cybrguy]

Thanks, @cybrguy , this confirms what I thought about his fittings, and glass joints in general.
My main questions, though, are about the mouthpiece end of a V-1's stem. Straight or tapered? If tapered, what size?

They look like pretty standard straight stems in all the pics I have seen, like this one.

His XL8R stems are a different story, but don't come standard with the Splinter V1 unless something has changed or a special offer comes up.

I would still really like to try one of those...

 

[Shit Snacks]

My main questions, though, are about the mouthpiece end of a V-1's stem. Straight or tapered? If tapered, what size?

Straight as it always was, but he now will also have an official 19-19 m2m stem.

 

[Grifo]

is the mouth piece wide enough to use on a hydrotube?

 

[Shit Snacks]

is the mouth piece wide enough to use on a hydra tube?

A standard mouthpiece is not tapered to connect so it will not unless you wrap it or something. The new male to male adapter will fit 18mm hydrotubes and bubblers (19 is the same, since measurement is technically 18.8). You would need an adapter or a male to male that has one end 14mm to use with the smaller size bubblers and tubes.

 

[Grifo]

A standard mouthpiece is not tapered to connect so it will not unless you wrap it or something. The new male to male adapter will fit 18mm hydrotubes and bubblers (19 is the same, since measurement is technically 18.8). You would need an adapter or a male to male that has one end 14mm to use with the smaller size bubblers and tubes.

yeah just searched hydrotube on reddit and got a better understanding i thought the HVT hydrotube had a joint on it but its just rubber. I do have a RBT male to male on the way.

 

[cybrguy]

I do have a RBT male to male on the way.

I'm really glad he is selling them now. Should make life easier for many...

 

[Grifo]

I'm really glad he is selling them now. Should make life easier for many...

yeah especially if hes using a "custom" size. I just popped in the light and saw some new cooling mouth piece it was sick.

 

[bossman]

Begin by turning the wattage up to something like 50W and heating for 10-15 seconds to soak the heater. Drop the wattage down to something like 12-14W and start cruising. The heater remains on and you just take draws at your own pace. It's supposed to be similar to a log vape experience,

Thanks! I was able to do this for the first time and I'm really happy with the results.

I had my timer set to 300. I'm thinking I should lower that because I've forgotten and left it on twice already. My og is heating more evenly than in TC. I see why folks like logs. Seeing this kind of performance with a $25 TC mod makes the Splinter value seem even more impressive.

Edit: is there a shortcut to edit the temp without jumping into the menus?

 

[vapviking]

Thanks for the talk about stems, folks. I have a good understanding now. So I know that I need a new hydrotube (Been using a 14mm pinnacle pro a lot with a Hopper and Mighty. I can actually carry it short distance in my jeans pocket, though sitting down is out of the question!) Could use an adapter, but I'd rather track fewer parts. The 19/19 male to male stems seem a must for water lovers. I did see an inline 18mm hydrotube on ebay, a bit long at almost 8".

 

[Shit Snacks]

Thanks for the talk about stems, folks. I have a good understanding now. So I know that I need a new hydrotube (Been using a 14mm pinnacle pro a lot with a Hopper and Mighty. I can actually carry it short distance in my jeans pocket, though sitting down is out of the question!) Could use an adapter, but I'd rather track fewer parts. The 19/19 male to male stems seem a must for water lovers. I did see an inline 18mm hydrotube on ebay, a bit long at almost 8".

yeah those tubes are always a little bigger, I know they have a new small one on puff it up though. It can be tough to find an 18 to 14 adapter, I'm sure even harder with new Splinter measurements, but I'm lucky enough to have a few that do work well with the previous more standard glass joints in my RBT vapes

 

[Summer]

@vapviking, Ryan posted more stem pics which might give you a better idea of the width. I would say 15 or 16mm?

http://www.instagram.com/buddharastatao/

And I believe the 19/19mm wpa currently sold on the website is not the new ones he just rec'd. & is gonna sell in the near future. The new one is longer between the joints. Ryan wanted more length for finger-grasping when he cleared the rig. I'm holding out for the version.

 

[bossman]

I don't think I'm actually cruising in wattage for real. For one thing I was unable to repeat my success. The other thing is that I'm still in TC and setting the VTC Dual to 12 to 18W is still only cruising at 3 or 4 even I'm not drawing. I was able to get a better initial heat soak last time maybe. It's hard to see how that 50W preheat/heat soak amounts to anything lasting since the wattage is only there for an instant.

My understanding of the Splinter-as-log method was that a low wattage was set to run continuously. Where I'm at now is still wattage jumping around like I'm used to in TC only with the new ability to change the interface settings so I'm varying the max wattage rather than the temp.

 

[Summer]

I don't think I'm actually cruising in wattage for real. For one thing I was unable to repeat my success. The other thing is that I'm still in TC and setting the VTC Dual to 12 to 18W is still only cruising at 3 or 4 even I'm not drawing. I was able to get a better initial heat soak last time maybe. It's hard to see how that 50W preheat/heat soak amounts to anything lasting since the wattage is only there for an instant.

What do you mean your still in TC. Shouldn't you be in straight wattage mode? (Oh

I think some members preheat at a higher wattage life 40W for like 5 - 10 sec. & then the cruise is engaged.

Now I have to make sense of all this as I really want to put the sur_myevic (or vice versa ) on my mod so I can use Ryan's method.

@bossman, although this is the G43, it's being run the same way as Ryan runs the Splinters. In the video you
can see that the only value that fluctuates on the draw is the volts -- if I'm seeing the screen correctly.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrU0MNSj9-f/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1uw31f7ffqcm7

 

[entirely_foreign]

Tried out the V1 tonight for the first time. Overall I'm very impressed. Used VW, 5W steps, from 25W to 45W, the overall recommended range by the instruction manual. Did 3 second pre-heats, with very light draw, to heat soak the herb. Not sure about the effects (used CBD, my first time with it, no calibration for what effects should be), but the vapor production and flavor are on point. So far my only complaint is that there's hot spotting in 2 spots, but I am going to play around with draw speed to see if I can mitigate it. I pulled pretty hard.

 

[Hippie]

I don't think I'm actually cruising in wattage for real. For one thing I was unable to repeat my success. The other thing is that I'm still in TC and setting the VTC Dual to 12 to 18W is still only cruising at 3 or 4 even I'm not drawing. I was able to get a better initial heat soak last time maybe. It's hard to see how that 50W preheat/heat soak amounts to anything lasting since the wattage is only there for an instant.

My understanding of the Splinter-as-log method was that a low wattage was set to run continuously. Where I'm at now is still wattage jumping around like I'm used to in TC only with the new ability to change the interface settings so I'm varying the max wattage rather than the temp.

PPwr mode
Toggle Priority Power mode On/Off. In temperature control modes, this switches the power and the temperature display; the power is displayed at top of screen and is directly editable by the + and - keys just like in Power mode, and the temperature is displayed on the first of the 3 informations lines in the center of the screen. Temperature remains editable in Edit mode.
The purpose of this function is near the preheat function in PWR mode; once you have set your correct vape temperature (not burning your dry cotton), your comfort come from the heat rise speed. This feature let you adjust this parameter more easily.

To cruise in wattage mode with sur_myevic (like the video)
In the clicks menu make sure edit is set as an option then activate the edit mode from the main screen and cycle through the options with the up button until it says power at the top

 

[little maggie]

Are the v1's shipping now?

 

[PapaEmeritusCDXX]

Small update from me.

The custom XL8R stem I won makes a world of difference. 34.5W with a normal xl stem gets Hot as fuck, XL custom stem? No problem. Not as hot or harsh. Fantastic idea, even if it wobbles a little bit in the splinter.

The iPV5 is alright for "joules" mode. Joules mode is basically the chinglish version of temp control mode. While it works and I dig it, I am still gonna sell it.

even though it is pseudo temp control, it's still wattage at heart, but only a 20 sec draw time.

Should've kept the evic.

 

[pakalolo]

I don't think I'm actually cruising in wattage for real. For one thing I was unable to repeat my success. The other thing is that I'm still in TC

You are definitely not cruising in wattage mode. If you're in TC mode then you can't use it like a log. You're using the FJ firmware so click the fire button the number of times you've set up to enter Edit. Mine is set to 3 but I recall that I changed the default. Anyway, once TCR at the top of the screen starts flashing, you should be able to cycle through the available modes until you see PWR. If PWR doesn't come up, then you need to go to the Vaping|Modes menu and make sure that Power is set to Y.