Discontinued The RBT Milaana (unregulated single 18650)

[Dan Morrison]

On the concern side...
The 18F glass on Milanesa is starting to wiggle, a little up and down , and sideways. I'm not letting anyone use it anymore unless they are fellow vaporists knowing their doings. I have some questions too...
Is that 18F glass piece attached to something that can break/tear/rip etc etc the heater, if dislodged from Milaana wood body somehow???
Also, I read on the Warranty section at RBT website, that you can use epoxy or instant glue for the glass...
Have someone done that already??? Is there a recommended instant glue, epoxy etc etc for the Milaana???
Safe wise I mean... As I'm seeing, that air intake runs next to the glue that come from stock. I can't feel sense anything from it.
If someone knows what's the best glue, please post and tag me. I'd like to glue it back asap.
Will I need to remove the 18F glass from the body to reglue it???
In my opinon, if you guys aren't experiencing any of this, I'd try to use and smudge some of the useable glue asap to prevent this from happening to you guys...
I can see it as a problem in the future of the units...
Heat + wood, expands/contracts, right???
Glue hardens and brittle with heat, right???
And Glass with hard brittle glue, and wood don't like each other, right???
This could be a little design flaw.
I wonder if little wood chips can be pushed/softly hammered in between the 18F glass and the Milaana body...
Would it be the same or worst?? Would it be too much pressure/stress in the glass.

I have tried not to post in this thread, but I can say for certain that instant glue is a terrible idea. It has very poor temperature resistance, and it's also very brittle. So it's just about the worst glue for this application.

Machinists use super glue to hold down parts temporarily on the lathe. Applying a little heat breaks the bond immediately, I use this technique in the shop all the time.

You are correct in that the wood will always be expanding/contracting, even with changes in the environment. You'll want a glue with lots of flexibility.

I can't say for sure, but if I had to guess, an industrial quality high temperature clear epoxy with good flexibility would be a good bet. Check out the masterbond website. I also wonder if a silicone based adhesive would work...

 

[AJS]

Just found my milk in the cupboard.
Thanks Milaana ...

 

[mrbonsai420]

OK, It was a bad battery. I am able to get huge clouds at will and white wall a bong now with a fresh battery. I could combust if I tried I think, I'm happy. Let me add to this Milaana porn

 

[Shit Snacks]

OK, It was a bad battery. I am able to get huge clouds at will and white wall a bong now with a fresh battery. I could combust if I tried I think, I'm happy. Let me add to this Milaana porn

Yeah that makes more sense lol. Was it you who tried to vape a bowl on a new uncharged battery? That may have killed it? I dono, but glad you're taking to it proper now. I've actually found I need to stir even less with my Evolver HydraTree 2.0 and the pwnt somehow (I've done this more with Zion than Lana though), something about hydratubes and this tech i guess, always wanted to try the hydrabomb too... Those are great pics!

 

[Andreaerdna]

I have tried not to post in this thread, but I can say for certain that instant glue is a terrible idea. It has very poor temperature resistance, and it's also very brittle. So it's just about the worst glue for this application.

Machinists use super glue to hold down parts temporarily on the lathe. Applying a little heat breaks the bond immediately, I use this technique in the shop all the time.

You are correct in that the wood will always be expanding/contracting, even with changes in the environment. You'll want a glue with lots of flexibility.

I can't say for sure, but if I had to guess, an industrial quality high temperature clear epoxy with good flexibility would be a good bet. Check out the masterbond website. I also wonder if a silicone based adhesive would work...

there is a potential health risk IMO in rbt DIY reparation advice: if some chips from an old dry layer of unglued instant glue falls into the heater you risk to vape it, isn't it ?(because it will unglue again, even rbt industrial epoxy fails to bond reliably glass and wood, and so what then, new instant glue layer?) or is there a protection against this risk?

 

[Bravesst]

Herb prep seems to be important, but it's all about the button. Trick is to pull good, tasty vapor, without getting popocorn. The variable of the unregulated battery requires some instinctual technique. Im still over or under triggering sometimes.

Love the non cooking (on demand) aspect. More like smoking a doob, let it die for a few minutes, hit when, and for as long as you need. It's ready when you are - cool feature. I admit, a slow sip session on my AA is sometimes called for, nice to have both.

Got 10 batts (D4), 4 stems, thinking about getting my *BrickHouse* a baby brother. My OCD needs a backup. Anything else I may need Milaana pro's?

TIA ~M

 

[vapen00b]

OK, It was a bad battery. I am able to get huge clouds at will and white wall a bong now with a fresh battery. I could combust if I tried I think, I'm happy. Let me add to this Milaana porn

Nice pics man!


What about the concern putting too much weight onto the joint..? I thought there were quite a number of advices no to do that and it would void your lifetime warranty too? I think we discussed that over in the Zion thread a while back?
Anyway, I'd like to use it attached to a water tool too, so I'm all open to news


Have a nice weekend everyone!

 

[KeroZen]

I'm starting to wonder if RBT didn't get a batch of bad cells, maybe B-grades rewrapped to look like A-grades. Those are prolly the worst because it's pretty hard to detect unless you perform deep tests (you can't just remove the shrinkwrap and look under as it's really a cell coming from the right factory, but for some reason it didn't pass their QC and was rejected)

We've had quite a few reports of poorly performing cells already. The two HE4 I got with my production Zion are not bad but for some reason they perform not as good as my VapPower (which are supposedly rewrapped HE2) I'm under the impression I'm getting one less bowl per charge with them...

I've heard that even reputed wholesalers can get crap cells without realizing and they pass them down the chain. Ryan sounded pretty sure about his source, but who knows?

For the glue holding the female GonG, trust me we battled hard to have Ryan find another solution. And for those who know me in particular, I was a real pain in his ass about that topic! I take materials safety and health very seriously because I started vaporizing for that very reason: it's supposed to be healthier. I hope that in the future Ryan will come with an alternative but for the time being it's the way it is.

It's not optimal but the epoxy he chose is safe, heat-resistant and smell+taste-less. I wouldn't consider any silicone glue like Dan hinted, as I got pretty bad experiences with them (cf FM8 and Elo prototypes) The stuff stinks to high heaven and heat makes it even worse. It stays soft for a very long time which is desirable in some situations I guess, but it gives the impression that it never cures (and when it does and become hard it means all the plasticizers have leached out)

The right glue to chose should be added to RBT's FAQ if it's not there already. Otherwise contact him directly to request the right brand and type.

 

[Zangano Cruel]

So, Im hoping to connect this thing to a Pinnacle Pro style water tool. Something like this item.

Can anyone here recommend one? Preferably low diffusion and 18MM to take advantage of the wider draw path. Smaller size and cheap price is a bonus also.

Along with detailing how I need to go about getting the right adapter for such a tool?

Have 2 of the OG PNWT a few years ago. You can get an US18M14M adapter and you'll set. I couldn't tell if the one you posted was 18 or 14 F.
I can't tell if I used that adaptor in my videos but I'm sure I post a photo. I'll post one video soon with the PNWT and it was really good. Still haven't glued the 18F. Pretty annoying the feeling of pulling the 18F.
Stay vaped my friends....

 

[flotntoke]

Have 2 of the OG PNWT a few years ago. You can get an US18M14M adapter and you'll set. I couldn't tell if the one you posted was 18 or 14 F.
I can't tell if I used that adaptor in my videos but I'm sure I post a photo. I'll post one video soon with the PNWT and it was really good. Still haven't glued the 18F. Pretty annoying the feeling of pulling the 18F.
Stay vaped my friends....

Yeah, I think an 14/18 adapter my be the best option, too. I've never seen a PNWT type with an 18mm. The one you link to should be fine as a cheap option. Either that or go with a more intricate hydrotube like @mrbonsai420 put pics of above. See many of those with 18mm female GonG.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Nice pics man!


What about the concern putting too much weight onto the joint..? I thought there were quite a number of advices no to do that and it would void your lifetime warranty too? I think we discussed that over in the Zion thread a while back?
Anyway, I'd like to use it attached to a water tool too, so I'm all open to news


Have a nice weekend everyone!

Yeah, still can't be recommended, if it did break like that, I'm sure you could still get it fixed, but I would recommend always keeping one hand holding the hydratube and not let it rest on it like it was in that photo. The pwnt is smaller and can handle it better, but yeah its at your own risk but probably fine.

Yeah, I think an 14/18 adapter my be the best option, too. I've never seen a PNWT type with an 18mm. The one you link to should be fine as a cheap option. Either that or go with a more intricate hydrotube like @mrbonsai420 put pics of above. See many of those with 18mm female GonG.

There are some 18mm hydratubes being made by sunshinestore now, also vapor blunt had some, aside from the VXL options. Also really regular bubblers work well too, more accessible.

And re glue, myself I would be sending it back to be fixed personally, would suck to be without it, but I don't trust my own glue skills and want to be sure I get proper epoxy and seal. To each their own though, share tips whatever you do, and advise caution!

@Bravesst interesting to hear you compare on demand to a joint, I always think of it more like a pipe or bubbler set up, where as a session vape like the Air makes me think of a doob, constantly cooking/burning down. But i know people relight em, was never my style though always burnt em down unless it was a pipe. And along with a back up (didn't you get two Airs and two Nanos too? lol) maybe see if you can get a wooden stem when Ed is free again...

 

[Dan Morrison]

It's not optimal but the epoxy he chose is safe, heat-resistant and smell+taste-less.

It'd be nice to see the MSDS and data sheet. Even the most advanced epoxies on the market would have trouble with this application. I don't know of a room temperature curable clear epoxy with a service temp rating higher than 350F for bonding dissimilar materials.

In any case, glue is the wrong solution IMO. It should be a mechanical seal.

Edit: I should clarify that I don't think the epoxy would be a health hazard, because it's outside of the airway, I am only talking about the bond longevity/durability.

 

[DocGonzo]

Given the turn around time on the few warrantied Zions, I think I'd try to avoid sending anything in unless it was absolutely necessary. I'd also be wary of gluing anything myself, though. Not sure what I would do. Anyone come up with a non-glue fix for if the female glass comes undone?

 

[cybrguy]

Anyone come up with a non-glue fix for if the female glass comes undone?

If such a thing existed I'm sure RBT would be using it. This issue was a consideration in the design and the glue, completely out of the airpath, was the best solution.

 

[WakeAndVape]

@UnshavenFish its a 30a battery.
Since i am going to be using 18650's for the near future alot...us there a for dummies guide to 18650s? I feel like and idiot with all this technical terminology i dont understand.

@IAmKrazy2 GZA/Method man and thank you and @Shit Snacks for a solid recommendation.

The wait was rocky, but the mountain tops are beautiful...except the button lol.

Edit:

It'd be nice to see the MSDS and data sheet. Even the most advanced epoxies on the market would have trouble with this application. I don't know of a room temperature curable clear epoxy with a service temp rating higher than 350F for bonding dissimilar materials.

In any case, glue is the wrong solution IMO. It should be a mechanical seal.

Edit: I should clarify that I don't think the epoxy would be a health hazard, because it's outside of the airway, I am only talking about the bond longevity/durability.

I left my milaana on a warm stovetop and the bottom came off exposung the guts of the unit.

it looks like super glue or similar.

Im almost tempted to peek further inside, but would prefer not to have an acceidental expensive paperweight.

 

[flotntoke]

Given the turn around time on the few warrantied Zions, I think I'd try to avoid sending anything in unless it was absolutely necessary. I'd also be wary of gluing anything myself, though. Not sure what I would do. Anyone come up with a non-glue fix for if the female glass comes undone?

If it gets loose, may be able to push it down a little tighter in the hole so that friction will hold it there. Just be very careful while pushing it in and go easy on it so it doesn't come back out.

Hoping this works well until things slow down a bit with pre-orders and all else to get a quicker turnaround on warranty fix. And, may be able to hold out until Zion arrives so not as missed while it is in for fix.

 

[KeroZen]

In any case, glue is the wrong solution IMO. It should be a mechanical seal.

I couldn't agree more and I hope it will be implemented in a future product revision. But again, easier said than done!

 

[DocGonzo]

If such a thing existed I'm sure RBT would be using it. This issue was a consideration in the design and the glue, completely out of the airpath, was the best solution.

I'm sure the glue was the most economically feasible solution for RBT, but I highly doubt there was literally no way to secure the glass joint without glue.

 

[WakeAndVape]

I'm sure the glue was the most economically feasible solution for RBT, but I highly doubt there was literally no way to secure the glass joint without glue.

True..the botton and bottom both are glued as well.

I highly doubt glue was needed to conncect the bottom or the bottom to a wooden housing...

Screws anyone?

 

[nondarb]

True..the botton and bottom both are glued as well.

I highly doubt glue was needed to conncect the bottom or the bottom to a wooden housing...

Screws anyone?

If there were screws the first thing half of us would do is open it up and take a gander at that heater everyone's so cloak and dagger about. I understand the use of glue on the bottom honestly, but I don't like it on the inside or on the joint.

 

[Andreaerdna]

It is strange that the bottom felt out after been heated..

Wood on wood can be easily and durably glued. Not by instant glue though...

 

[cybrguy]

I'm sure the glue was the most economically feasible solution for RBT, but I highly doubt there was literally no way to secure the glass joint without glue.

I don't doubt there are other ways to do it, I merely said this was "the best solution". "Best" is going to be based on many factors including time and cost. It wouldn't take much in time and/or materials to bring the cost up to less attractive price points. For example you might be able to secure the bottom with screws as someone suggested. However, I'm guessing that the wall thickness would make that difficult and time consuming. While it might be "possible" that doesn't make it practical...

 

[TheDudeNextDoor]

@UnshavenFish its a 30a battery.
Since i am going to be using 18650's for the near future alot...us there a for dummies guide to 18650s? I feel like and idiot with all this technical terminology i dont understand.

This is a good place for info and updates.

Here's a pretty in-depth explanation, maybe more than you want, but I couldn't resist linking to an ironically named vape vendor.

 

[Andreaerdna]

I don't doubt there are other ways to do it, I merely said this was "the best solution". "Best" is going to be based on many factors including time and cost. It wouldn't take much in time and/or materials to bring the cost up to less attractive price points. For example you might be able to secure the bottom with screws as someone suggested. However, I'm guessing that the wall thickness would make that difficult and time consuming. While it might be "possible" that doesn't make it practical...

Time and cost will be higher by far if peaples decide not to glue back by themselves (as suggested by rbt) and do as @Shit Snacks and send it back for warranty (best solution IMO). Glue in assembly is the fastest solution not a good one (excepted few applications: wood on wood, or plastic on plastic...)

What surprise me is that there is a very easy, nice looking solution that cames to my mind looking at the vape that will not only secure the joint but will allow for easy replacement of it (in case it shatters) and add 0 hazard to it. A metallic crown secured by screws or even better using the same screwing thing used to secure copper battery door...am I over simplifing things?

 

[little maggie]

OK, It was a bad battery. I am able to get huge clouds at will and white wall a bong now with a fresh battery. I could combust if I tried I think, I'm happy. Let me add to this Milaana porn

What is your water device?