I used Burt's Beeswax lip balm with good effect. It's a little softer than pure beeswax and has a little peppermint oil in it as well. I didn't sand Millie so much as polished her first with ultrafine wet and dry paper (1200, 1500, and 2000). The beeswax darkened her slightly which I like. No expert on this, but I did this years ago to my MFLB and it still looks good (not that I've used it in a long long time). Multiple light coats over a few days is probably best and of course, the obligatory warning: your mileage may vary.
Both look good as long as they are 100% beeswax.So beeswax is the way to go then, would any of this be a good option?:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-Pure-...623593?hash=item21173a64a9:g:7QsAAMXQC-tS~otd
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pure-Beeswax-Furniture-Polish-100g-200g/221531415708?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid=555012&algo=PW.MBE&ao=2&asc=20140221143405&meid=de28a019fa8b4ac18808793a37b76f89&pid=100010&rk=2&rkt=24&sd=142123623593
Also, before aplying it should I do prepare the wood or something? Any tips/links to how to do it properly? Should I sand/polish her before aplying the wax? Thanks guys, I'm a total noob about wood. All the help is really apreciated
Both look good as long as they are 100% beeswax.
As far as prep get some super fine sand paper and rub her over if you don't feel your unit is smooth enough for the touch...make sure to rub with the grain
Heat the milaana with a hair dryer to get the wood to take the wax easier...apply a few coats and wipe off excess with a rag.
You can also use dyes/food coloring to change the color of the wood before applying the wax.
I am an amateur though...feel I should note that.
@beiberhole69 not HOT to the touch...but defiantly warm to very warm to the touch.. .glass also...if I'm pushing a battery and heat soaking the stem comes out hot, not hot potato hot...but still hot.
Loving the tasty rips while using some full melt with my Mi. Made it a little easier to load without getting hemp fibre stuck to everything.
+1 for Milaana / Vapman!My perfect companion vape for milaana or vice versa is the junior brick or vapman...
Yeah unless you start with a reeaaaal slow, hot draw, it's hard to get perfect performance off a half bowl that has cooled off. Good thing there's no wait for hit #2Most of the time I expect top notchoice performance from cold...which ain't always the case.
I agree 100%. Pretty much absolute same for me, word for word.I've had a Milaana for several months now, and since then I haven't used a single one of my other vapes once. I've gone though many configurations and my favorite is the long stem, with the screen basket style. I find the basket style is better for smaller loads, and the flavor with the long stem is awesome. While the short stem provides better feedback, is more stealth, and easier to carry, there's nothing better IMO than a perfectly dialed in long stem
feel like it did used to get hotter faster before I sent it in to get the glass female re-glued...but it could also be in myour head.
Yep I have had the heat conduct into the button from an extra long sesssion and glass become almost burning hot (makes it hard to wrap fingers round to stir). But never noticed more than a tiny bit in the copper and brass. It is perfectly reasonable that every part of a heating circuit will conduct heat eventually but mine was noticeably hot not just warm. Havent had any extra long sessions since the fix because its just not necessary as either the load is cashed or I'm done before anything gets warmed! When I get re stocked I'll do a few back to back to in the name of science and report back!I think there is truth in what both of you are saying.
There can be contact problems in that post when it unscrews even partly, I experienced it first hand the day it didn't heat at all and it was fixed by just screwing the post counter-clockwise fully. Note that I don't get grime on mine but I imagine it must not be good either...
But I'm also obviously doing way longer sessions than you guys with my unit, with my 20 to 30++ hits per bowl technique. And really, over time everything gets hot, including the trigger button, the copper tab and the post (as well as the GonG, both male and female parts, the wood body, and even the cell itself)
I think it's normal: think about it, copper is an excellent heat conductor. And we have a simple copper circuit directly connected to the two heater electrodes, which themselves conduct heat directly from the nearby mesh. Copper is used in high quality heatsinks for CPUs as well as for heat pipes on motherboards. To me it makes sense that heat would conduct from the heater to basically everywhere else in the circuit over time.
Now as @BadDog No said, if it gets hot just after a few hits, then yes maybe it's suspicious?
My copper battery lid gets warm while in use too.
Is this indicative of an issue?
I feel like it did used to get hotter faster before I sent it in to get the glass female re-glued...but it could also be in myour head.
Cleaned the posts that had a little dirt on them as @TheRobbo suggested but it didn't make the change night and day
Is the lid supposed to get warm at all? Or am I just trippin?
This heat convo is a little bit refreshing. I too get the hot threaded rod problem from time to time. One thing that's helped the most is I've been placing the battery pos. side down. This for the most part has cured mi. mi issues.
My mi gets totally heat soaked while I'm using her. The glass gets way too hot to handle. It won't blister me but it's very uncomfortable. I feel me and @KeroZen probably run our "sessions" pretty damn close to each others. I'm usually getting around 20 hits a load. Of course I take a bit of a mi break to hit my PP VC. Then I will return to the mi session after I run 1 load through the vc. It always takes a few seconds to get the mi load back to producing monster hits.
I've always quietly wondered if the cooler running units weren't draining power somewhere else. I know for sure when I'm loosing power to battery compartment that my heater suffers from it. Big time.
The very fact that the Milaana has been putting in this much work without any huge hiccups is awesome.
Yea following the lines...going across can cause unsightly scratches.Cool, will do exactly as you say! Any grit recommendations for polishing? I will order everything tonight, Milaana has become my favourite vape and I want to take care of my girl as good as I can!
When you say to rub it with the grain, you mean following the lines of the wood right?
Sure, why not? Milaana is basically a portable log. I used Burt's Bees wax lip balm because I had some around but probably some form of log butter is even better. Linseed oil is not a smell I'm fond of, but I'm sure it works great too and eventually the smell goes away. Have fun!All this wood care feels way over my head. But I really wanna learn so I can take good care of mil. So baddog you think we can use the stuff log people make safely?
I use both Ed's TnT butter and the stuff from Sticky Bricks....both work very well on the Mi.All this wood care feels way over my head. But I really wanna learn so I can take good care of mil. So baddog you think we can use the stuff log people make safely?
Linseed oil is not a smell I'm fond of
All this wood care feels way over my head. But I really wanna learn so I can take good care of mil. So baddog you think we can use the stuff log people make safely?
Is RBT still selling the Milaana from his website or do you have to go to a third party vendor?
Looks like I might need to have one of these. Any discounts anywhere?
Hey kids, just got a D020-d and ran the Milaana through it for the first time. A little underwhelmed!
I give it a decent preheat and then place it on the m2m, start inhaling and I'll see clouds start forming but then go away. It's as if my drawing is cooling the heater down to a point where it can't keep up - and this is on a fresh battery, mind you.
I thought maybe the load was small and I spent it but nope. Take the Mi out, preheat again, repeat .... clouds.
This doesn't seem to be consistent with many of the reports here about how great Milaana is through water!
If done correctly on a fresh battery, with a full bowl you should not be able to overpower the heater. It should combust if you hammer on for that long and draw that hard with a fresh battery on all 3 of the Mi's I have used EXCEPT for my cold unit that was replaced. It couldn't brown a bowl dry either though.
Try a finer grind and "suck" your load into the stem. Make sure you get it covering the bottom and at least 1/8" deep, don't be too skimpy .
Preheat for 4-5 seconds and then start your draw. Steady draw any speed until you see the vapor then let off but keep pulling, this is when you really get the bulk of your vapor , After letting off. This is my technique, I rarely feather the button anymore.
Do you think putting the battery in one way or another changes the angle of the copper tab enough to not contact the brass knob well causing HR? I know before I dropped my unit and squashed the inner spring a little bit my tab wouldn't contact the bat at all if put in + side down!