Discontinued The RBT Milaana (unregulated single 18650)

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tblast

Well-Known Member
I've had a Milaana for several months now, and since then I haven't used a single one of my other vapes once. I've gone though many configurations and my favorite is the long stem, with the screen basket style. I find the basket style is better for smaller loads, and the flavor with the long stem is awesome. While the short stem provides better feedback, is more stealth, and easier to carry, there's nothing better IMO than a perfectly dialed in long stem. I have 9 batteries in my rotation, I think my favorites are the green Samsung 25Rs, but they're all relatively close. The Milaana has been so ideal for me that I've not felt any VAS since owning it, and I've spent significantly less time browsing FC.

My particular Milaana is one of the original models (raised glass, some metal mesh rather than an actual screen), and compared to other reports, it definitely seems like mine is on the cool side. I get maybe two or three stems before the battery drops to 3.8, which is where I start to notice a performance decline, and charge.

Also I have noticed that my brass(?) knob gets hot over the course of a session. I haven't noticed anyone mentioning that happening to them, and was wondering if that's normal.
 
Philreal187

Philreal187

Well-Known Member
Modicum said:
Does the Milaana come with a batt charger & if not can the Haze V3 charger work?
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I was using the haze charger for a while and it did the job! I eventually upgrade to a 4 port digital read out and it confirmed the haze charger was getting the batteries to a complete charge. I now never use the haze charger since grabbing a new one mainly because the new one is silent, a bit faster, and the digital read out is a very convenient to have!
 
WakeAndVape

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
Back down to one milaana...gifted one to a friend, because he was getting plateau with the pax 2.

Anyhow I gave him a few batteries momentarily shortening my supply (until more are ordered)

I was out yesterday and away from the charger and was pushing batteries to their limits since I had fewer.

When I got home two of the batteries were at 2.75 v's...that shit was crazy.

I was pushing them after a heat soak and was still getting vapor so I was unaware they were so low!

Will have to order more asap...4 ain't enough for a full weekend day...lol

Also upon further reflection...I think the glowing coil technique made me realize the value of a heat soaked stem and the benefits (which is essentially what your doing).

Most of the time I expect top notchoice performance from cold...which ain't always the case.

Session-ing a stem makes the experience 100 times more enjoyable than the random hits from cold.

I hear all this vapcap talk (I do plan on getting one someday)...

My perfect companion vape for milaana or vice versa is the junior brick or vapman...

Brick being first because with torch technique earth smashing hits can be had instantly vs heat up time.
 
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MonkeyTime

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
Hey all, won't have time to play with them until later, but got my shipment from 420EDC.com (thanks @cannabis.pro) today of their custom Milaana glass.

bUq3bOy.jpg


I just got two bullets, a short stem and the water tool to start and test. Report to follow this evening......
 
b0

b0

Cloudy...
I'm waiting for my Sony VTC 5 to come, but so far I like more the LG HG2 that came with my Milaana than the 2 Samsung 25R that I have. All of them work well, but the HG2 is just quicker and seems to last longer. Hope the VTC 5 are as good as everyone says, if not I will probably order some more brown LG. Has anyone tried the Samsung 30Q or the Sony VTC6? They seem to be at the same level as the HG2.

I want to start taking care of the wood in my Milaana, what should I use? Any tips on how to do it or maybe a link? Please!! :bowdown:

This vaporizer changed everything. I have been just using it and ignoring all my other vapes since I got it, amazingly good!
 
BadDog No

BadDog No

Well-Known Member
b0 said:
I want to start taking care of the wood in my Milaana, what should I use? Any tips on how to do it or maybe a link? Please!! :bowdown:
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I used Burt's Beeswax lip balm with good effect. It's a little softer than pure beeswax and has a little peppermint oil in it as well. I didn't sand Millie so much as polished her first with ultrafine wet and dry paper (1200, 1500, and 2000). The beeswax darkened her slightly which I like. No expert on this, but I did this years ago to my MFLB and it still looks good (not that I've used it in a long long time). Multiple light coats over a few days is probably best and of course, the obligatory warning: your mileage may vary. ;)
 
KeroZen

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
scottg402 said:
Hello everyone..... I know these are pricey but I bought a pair and have been using them for a while. They work really well with the Milaana!
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That's quite a markup for a cell with same specs as a HG2! Plus with these rewraps you never know if they sourced A grade or B grade cells.

We really recommend to stick to these 3 manufacturers instead: LG, Samsung, Sony. There's still a risk of getting rewrapped B grades disguised as A grade cells or worse fake cells of unknown specs, but if you get them from a reputable source it's safer and cheaper than rebadger brands.
 
scottg402

scottg402

Well-Known Member
KeroZen said:
That's quite a markup for a cell with same specs as a HG2! Plus with these rewraps you never know if they sourced A grade or B grade cells.

We really recommend to stick to these 3 manufacturers instead: LG, Samsung, Sony. There's still a risk of getting rewrapped B grades disguised as A grade cells or worse fake cells of unknown specs, but if you get them from a reputable source it's safer and cheaper than rebadger brands.
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Just reporting my experience. I like them better than the HG2's and 25R's. I am fortunate enough to work in the industry so I get things as a better deal than most. But yeah I can see they may not be for everyone.
 
Bravesst

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
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TheRobbo

Well-Known Member
tblast said:
Also I have noticed that my brass(?) knob gets hot over the course of a session. I haven't noticed anyone mentioning that happening to them, and was wondering if that's normal.
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This can definitely happen but is certainly not normal!
It is a sign there is a bad contact somewhere in that area causing high resistance... This will sap power leading to a seemingly cold unit and heat where its not supposed to be.
Now hopefully for you it is the same reason mine was getting hot there last week (did post about it a few pages back) and not something else... Because mine was easy to fix!
Now I noticed a slow decline in performance but I think there was a problem from day one as now I have fixed it I'm confident my unit runs hotter than when I received it.
I had to adjust technique and have combusted 2 times since the fix, and this is why I say it has more power as I used to have to really push it just to get close to hot enough to combust, now I have to be mindfull not too.
Its good though the extra power actually enables me to get smoother vapor because of less button time I think... This in turn leads to less heat up of the body and best of all bat life increased. The other night I counted 5 baskets and bat was at 3.98v wich should give me enough juice for at least one if not two more (though charged any way cause why not) which is better than the 3 or 4 bowls max before the fix...

Ok, ok enough with the babbling get on with it :nod:
Unscrew the brass knob all the way off and take off the washers and copper tab. Now grab the post and gently twist your thum and finger round, it should not move at all, good! Now look at your fingers dirty? This was my problem grime in the thread causing high resistance at the point of contact with highest surface area (I.E. the supposed path of least resistance)
Quick clean of both male and female threads and WOW better than new!:rockon::science:
 
BadDog No

BadDog No

Well-Known Member
As much as I like TheRobbo's post and have no reason to doubt his experience, there could be an alternative simpler explanation. I've noticed the whole unit gets almost as warm as a log with prolonged "session" use, usually with water. I think unless you're getting a hot knob with light use, there's no problem. Of course it certainly doesn't hurt to clean your threads; I've added it to my maintenance thanks to Robbo's previous post.
 
MonkeyTime

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
Good morning all,

I only got the run the short stem with bullet thru one test cycle as well as the m2m adapter last night.....

It almost felt like the bullets created just a bit of conduction heating, the hits were very smooth, felt cooler and were more consistent in a way. I felt like I could lean on the unit a bit more and wasn't close to charring anything. It does reduce bowl size a bit, but I could see loading up two or three and heading out for the day.

I would say the extra glass in the bowl also reduces the feedback some. It didn't seem to change anything for me at all.

The one thing that I quickly noticed is that the glass in this stem seemed to retain a little more heat than the OEM version. I'm guessing it's just because of the added glass mass of the bullet, which also comes out pretty hot.

Hard draws did pull some material thru the glass stem, but only towards the end of the bowl and with hard draws.

The m2m unit is pretty short, it feels like the center joint could have been a little longer. With the adapter in the unit and the unit in glass, because of the short neck, the brass knob sits just off the mating glass. They don't touch, but just barely.

The m2m worked great, I thru a half used bullet in it and into a HT and went like hell! I did get a touch of combustion, the change in draw with the bullet and the lack of feedback had me going after it pretty hard.

I'll try and run them both thru proper paces tonight, but if you have any questions, let me know. If I can't answer them, I'll keep it in mind tonight.

MT
 
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TheRobbo

Well-Known Member
BadDog No said:
As much as I like TheRobbo's post and have no reason to doubt his experience, there could be an alternative simpler explanation. I've noticed the whole unit gets almost as warm as a log with prolonged "session" use, usually with water. I think unless you're getting a hot knob with light use, there's no problem. Of course it certainly doesn't hurt to clean your threads; I've added it to my maintenance thanks to Robbo's previous post.
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I half agree :evil:
I have felt the warmth of a sessioned unit and it all comes from the area around the heater... makes sense! And no warmth in the nut till one day it got hot quite quick. I dont think there is any time heat anywhere else but the heater (edit:not counting heat soak to the body) is acceptable, it means there is resistance where there shouldn't be and the contact there should have no problems keeping up with our requirements, with all that surface area in the threads. Although I do agree a little warm could conduct from the body into the post and nut.

On a related note I am noticing significantly less body warming since the thread clean
 
KeroZen

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
I think there is truth in what both of you are saying.

There can be contact problems in that post when it unscrews even partly, I experienced it first hand the day it didn't heat at all and it was fixed by just screwing the post counter-clockwise fully. Note that I don't get grime on mine but I imagine it must not be good either...

But I'm also obviously doing way longer sessions than you guys with my unit, with my 20 to 30++ hits per bowl technique. And really, over time everything gets hot, including the trigger button, the copper tab and the post (as well as the GonG, both male and female parts, the wood body, and even the cell itself)

I think it's normal: think about it, copper is an excellent heat conductor. And we have a simple copper circuit directly connected to the two heater electrodes, which themselves conduct heat directly from the nearby mesh. Copper is used in high quality heatsinks for CPUs as well as for heat pipes on motherboards. To me it makes sense that heat would conduct from the heater to basically everywhere else in the circuit over time.

Now as @BadDog No said, if it gets hot just after a few hits, then yes maybe it's suspicious?
 
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WakeAndVape

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
My copper battery lid gets warm while in use too.

Is this indicative of an issue?

I feel like it did used to get hotter faster before I sent it in to get the glass female re-glued...but it could also be in myour head.

Cleaned the posts that had a little dirt on them as @TheRobbo suggested but it didn't make the change night and day

Is the lid supposed to get warm at all? Or am I just trippin?
 
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