Discontinued The RBT Milaana (unregulated single 18650)

Status
Not open for further replies.

WakeAndVape

VapeLife X
What cells are you guys using? Are they just old or were they not adequate from the beginning?
I had my old yellow LG's directly from RBT and some MXJO's...they were old and were sitting for sometime while my milaana was being repaired.

when I was waiting on the milaana to return I ordered 2 LGhe2's (red?) instead of HB2's (brown?) from amazon and they have not preformed correctly since I got them.

been waiting on a IMRbattery order since Monday that has been stuck in TX for a few days 'in transit

juggling one great and one good battery is no fun
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Batteries matter. I just restocked with all recommended. I've gotten lost on which works best because I was working with 2 year old stock (at one time I had 30), but in the end, they needed replacement. Now I'll have about 15 in the rotation. I'll let you know which I like best. Samsung, Sony, or LG. Can't wait for my new batch to arrive from IMR.

BATTERY QUESTION
Does everybody keep track of your batteries by position in the case? With divider side down, case open, positive right means new, positive left means dead. Once you get used to it, it's a real easy way of knowing what the status of the battery in the case is.

SCREEN CHOICE
Another recent discovery. Alan has supplied me with my wood stems. He's a small screen guy. I've always went with stock RBT screens, turned both ways over the years. But I gave Alan's little screens a chance. They don't lock into position as well, but that can be a good thing because you can customize load distance (LD) after your pack stem, or after you stir. Since I discovered this, my screen is always at optimal LD, and it stays really clean, not gooey, kinda like a self cleaning oven. I musta done 40 stems, no real cleaning, just pushing the screen close with small loads.

CUSTOM MILAANA
Last night I build a prototype that I had no intention of keeping. I places three 1/16 vent holes in the top, in the recess I built for the copper cap. What is happening is what feels like a more consistent draw, not wispy, not a milkshake. Also, no hotspot.... I'm going to experiment with vent hole(s) size and placement. It just may suit my particular vape print (draw force, lip and tongue placement, lots going on here that changes from person to person), but I am really enjoying flavor, coolness, effect.
 
Last edited:

TheRobbo

Well-Known Member
So I dropped one of my glass stems a while back and it left the GonG intact but was daggers about half an inch above that... but I hung on to it just in case... then I had the great idea to mate it with a little bit of high temp silicone tubing I had lying around for my home brew and a bong and a bit of practice and well then I didn't want to let @AJS get all the limelight (cloudlight?) so here is my contribution to Milaana clouds.
Skip forward to 1:07mins for clouds
screen is dome style and set right back with the base at the base of the GonG
Battery had already done a couple of bowls before hand which helped tame the beast to get the easiest results

The vapor received from the amount of the herb put in is ridiculous.

Nothing but good words coming out of my mouth in regards to this vape.
Kudos to you RBT for your work!
Cheers!

I know this is in reference to Zion and not Mi but it still surprises me how little the Mi needs to work, I'm sure the Zion is the same just enough to cover the screen and you are in business... of course if you want more then that is cool too but hey with 2 hits like in my video I'm pretty good.

:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:RBT
 

mucsusn

60 going on 20
I had my old yellow LG's directly from RBT and some MXJO's...they were old and were sitting for sometime while my milaana was being repaired.

when I was waiting on the milaana to return I ordered 2 LGhe2's (red?) instead of HB2's (brown?) from amazon and they have not preformed correctly since I got them.

been waiting on a IMRbattery order since Monday that has been stuck in TX for a few days 'in transit

juggling one great and one good battery is no fun
Like @KeroZen has counseled on numerous occasions, stick with a known battery vendor. I only have experience with IMR, but I love their selection, pricing and service. Don’t get your batts from eBay or amazon
 

Vapetrees

Vaped Out
So I dropped one of my glass stems a while back and it left the GonG intact but was daggers about half an inch above that... but I hung on to it just in case... then I had the great idea to mate it with a little bit of high temp silicone tubing I had lying around for my home brew and a bong and a bit of practice and well then I didn't want to let @AJS get all the limelight (cloudlight?) so here is my contribution to Milaana clouds.
Skip forward to 1:07mins for clouds
screen is dome style and set right back with the base at the base of the GonG
Battery had already done a couple of bowls before hand which helped tame the beast to get the easiest results



I know this is in reference to Zion and not Mi but it still surprises me how little the Mi needs to work, I'm sure the Zion is the same just enough to cover the screen and you are in business... of course if you want more then that is cool too but hey with 2 hits like in my video I'm pretty good.

:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:RBT
Nice video. I've been placing my screens as close to the tip of the stem as possible. Can you explain why your screens are so deep into the stem?
 

TheRobbo

Well-Known Member
Nice video. I've been placing my screens as close to the tip of the stem as possible. Can you explain why your screens are so deep into the stem?
Thanks. I have screen deep in that stem as I find it gives a lot more leeway when cloud chasing... The extra distance allows to preheat a bit more for faster start and I can hang on the throttle longer during the hit with less fear of scorching/combusting :puke:
Very handy when going through water as there is no feedback of vapour temp so button time is really guess work and experience.
In contrast in my wood stem I have the screen basket and right up at the tip, which gives me better control. Wich leads to better taste less button time and greater battery life. I pretty much don't preheat like this.
 
Last edited:

Vapetrees

Vaped Out
Thanks. I have screen deep in that stem as I find it gives a lot more leeway when cloud chasing... The extra distance allows to preheat a bit more for faster start and I can hang on the throttle longer during the hit with less fear of scorching/combusting :puke:
Very handy when going through water as there is no feedback of vapour temp so button time is really guess work and experience.
In contrast in my wood stem I have the screen basket and right up at the tip, which gives me better control. Wich leads to better taste less button time and greater battery life. I pretty much don't preheat like this.
Ah okay i get it. Yeah I like to have it close for those reasons as well. I am able to let off the button once I start feeling sufficient heat, and because I like to preserve the taste all the way through. I don't really like it when it starts to taste smoky, if that makes sense.
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Ah okay i get it. Yeah I like to have it close for those reasons as well. I am able to let off the button once I start feeling sufficient heat, and because I like to preserve the taste all the way through. I don't really like it when it starts to taste smoky, if that makes sense.
As I mentioned in my last post, this is exactly why I went to Alan's smaller screen. I can push it around during the session, as the load gets spent and shrinks after stirring, I can push load closer to tip. I find the major drawback of a herb being too far from the tip is the gummed up stem real fast. The extra heat keeps things clean and dry. The ABV turns to dust and just falls out.
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
I surprised myself with this...

I turned the grain on a 45, so you don't really have any end grain. Notice the diagonal sweeps. The glass has been recessed and installed from below, no epoxy used. Don't worry, the heater is separated from the switch compartment by the same solid wood barrier, but this time a perfectly fitting plug installed from below. Vent holes are from the top, in the recess for the copper top.

It's a hair shorter, a hair thicker, and a little bit wider. It's got the nice rounded back, but hand planed. The front wall with the switch has a bit of a curve.

I'm hitting it now, first few hits work nice. I am not overly concerned about the best performance ever, as the prototype was built with some old stuff, but the set up seems to hold up the Mi standard.

Meet Mr. Sapele

w48f9ue.jpg


pAxk8rK.jpg


twX8fFZ.jpg


ao6aaG6.jpg


3FTxI2r.jpg
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Could you please share more details about how you secured the female GonG from below? Getting rid of the epoxy would make a lot of users and potential buyers happy... even if probably safe the way it's used at the moment.
 
Last edited:

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
@KeroZen

First, I think the epoxy is safe. I just love the simplicity of a fully recessed glass. The hole must be drilled for the largest diameter of the Gong, so it would make sense to me to use older, smaller glass (like on this piece), but either way, the hole is bored from below for both the glass and electronics compartment. This eliminates the 1/4 inch or so of wood between the oven floor and electronics ceiling that usually has 2 small holes for wires.

I used a hole saw to make a round blank about half inch thick and oversized for the hole. Then I shaped the piece to a really snug fit. Takes time to sneak up on the exact fit. I am able to drill the holes, feed the wire, and install the heater with the wood spacer as one unit from below. I secure the already snug fitting spacer from below with some tiny screws. Even without anchoring, it's not moving.

Everything else remains the same. I have a couple of other ideas I'm going to work into the design, but this seems to make Mi vapor, really hide away the glass, looks cool, and gets rid of the whole gluing process. There is still a very small amount of glue on the bottom cap which is about 1/8 of inch thick on this model.

I think I hit upon a nice design here. It's not much different than a classic Mi, basically the same shape, bit more fitted for a bigger hand (wider, thicker, but shorter). As a first prototype, you know it's gonna change a bunch, but this one I'm going to build again.

I'd like to settle upon 3 or 4 basic ideas, and then morph from there. I can also customize based on an individual's taste, but I need to stay practical as well, it's gotta work just as good as any other Milaana.
 
Last edited:

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
RBT's got it down. All the variables are worked out to produce a very simple, but effective product. This is a time consuming, a customized process. I just saw a really cool crossover from building furniture, and decided to give it a go. The accuracy needed is actually a bit less here.
 
Last edited:

oddjobold

Vape swap shop
@KeroZen

First, I think the epoxy is safe. I just love the simplicity of a fully recessed glass. The hole must be drilled for the largest diameter of the Gong, so it would make sense to me to use older, smaller glass (like on this piece), but either way, the hole is bored from below for both the glass and electronics compartment. This eliminates the 1/4 inch or so of wood between the oven floor and electronics ceiling that usually has 2 small holes for wires.

I used a hole saw to make a round blank about half inch thick and oversized for the hole. Then I shaped the piece to a really snug fit. Takes time to sneak up on the exact fit. I am able to drill the holes, feed the wire, and install the heater with the wood spacer as one unit from below. I secure the already snug fitting spacer from below with some tiny screws. Even without anchoring, it's not moving.

Everything else remains the same. I have a couple of other ideas I'm going to work into the design, but this seems to make Mi vapor, really hide away the glass, looks cool, and gets rid of the whole gluing process. There is still a very small amount of glue on the bottom cap which is about 1/8 of inch thick on this model.

I think I hit upon a nice design here. It's not much different than a classic Mi, basically the same shape, bit more fitted for a bigger hand (wider, thicker, but shorter). As a first prototype, you know it's gonna change a bunch, but this one I'm going to build again.

I'd like to settle upon 3 or 4 basic ideas, and then morph from there. I can also customize based on an individual's taste, but I need to stay practical as well, it's gotta work just as good as any other Milaana.

Could you not do away with the glass altoghter? Make a female fitting in the wood (like the iheat). If the heater needs to sit in a tube. You could use a piece of metal pipe or glass tube. That could help keep the screen in place as well.

Edit: lots of ideas me. I apologise for my lack of time and ability to carry them out! But FC can have them for free.
 
Last edited:

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
I'm good at the wood. I'm trying to maintain Ryan's variables with a bit of a different set up, but I don't really wanna change the Milaana- it works too well. The glass buried is actually kinda cool, maintains the taste. I need to work with the airspace around the glass (I think), or maybe vent holes smaller diameter, or whatever other variable, but taste is a bit wispy. Maybe a break in period for the Sapele. I really think it's just the old heater that I probably didn't get just right - next one I will - I already cut the blank.

But, to put things in perspective, I'm sipping on a stock maple right now and loving it... Beta testing is hard work, now I can stop analyzing every hit. :rant:
 
Last edited:

mucsusn

60 going on 20
I surprised myself with this...

I turned the grain on a 45, so you don't really have any end grain. Notice the diagonal sweeps. The glass has been recessed and installed from below, no epoxy used. Don't worry, the heater is separated from the switch compartment by the same solid wood barrier, but this time a perfectly fitting plug installed from below. Vent holes are from the top, in the recess for the copper top.

It's a hair shorter, a hair thicker, and a little bit wider. It's got the nice rounded back, but hand planed. The front wall with the switch has a bit of a curve.

I'm hitting it now, first few hits work nice. I am not overly concerned about the best performance ever, as the prototype was built with some old stuff, but the set up seems to hold up the Mi standard.

Meet Mr. Sapele

w48f9ue.jpg


pAxk8rK.jpg


twX8fFZ.jpg


ao6aaG6.jpg


3FTxI2r.jpg
Looking awesome. I'll be dropping the two maple Mi's at the PO tomorrow. Looking forward to one of these sapele beauties! And I love that deep recessed glass!
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Looking awesome. I'll be dropping the two maple Mi's at the PO tomorrow. Looking forward to one of these sapele beauties! And I love that deep recessed glass!
Yes, this is going to be a good week in the Bravesst vape work shop. I've already cut a couple of blanks for your project. Going to be pretty much like this one. We'll private message as I have a couple of questions I want to ask you before I get started with the actual build.
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
My IMR batteries arrived yesterday. I got 3 pink samsungs and 3 green sonys. I've been using all LG brown recently. Some from Ryan, some amazon (never again). I just fired up my first pink stem. Wow... I find weak batteries, clogged screens, spent stems, all make me cough from pulling too hard and losing some fine control. So far... smoother, plenty powerful on the back end. Think I like pink.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom