Discontinued The RBT Milaana (unregulated single 18650)

[pakalolo]

Can you tell me which forum I can post in. You mentioned general discussion. Can you send me a link to it. I don't see one called "general discussion"
Thanks

Under general there's a few. Which would you like me to use for the GLUE topic.

Use Vaporization Discussion. If there is a general glue safety thread, use that, otherwise start your own.

 

[TheDudeNextDoor]

I have had both the Zion and Milaana apart and inspected the 18mm female piece. Neither have the G-word on the screen. Unfortunately I did not get a good pic (although I post below that pic I did get), but the screen sits in place by simple pressure. The screen itself is kind of bottle-cap shaped, and the edges --extending below what you see when you look into the female joint -- hold the screen in place. This is why the instructions state to be careful when cleaning that screen: Pressure against it can move it farther down the tube to the heater. It's also why the US joint won't work -- it's too long; hence, it risks pushing the screen down.

The ONLY G-word (on both my units at least) is right on the rim of the joint.

 

[Bravesst]

I have had both the Zion and Milaana apart and inspected the 18mm female piece. Neither have the G-word on the screen. Unfortunately I did not get a good pic (although I post below that pic I did get), but the screen sits in place by simple pressure. The screen itself is kind of bottle-cap shaped, and the edges --extending below what you see when you look into the female joint -- hold the screen in place. This is why the instructions state to be careful when cleaning that screen: Pressure against it can move it farther down the tube to the heater. It's also why the US joint won't work -- it's too long; hence, it risks pushing the screen down.

The ONLY G-word (on both my units at least) is right on the rim of the joint.

I've had my first Mi apart many times. Screen sits in place with pressure. It is very heavy duty. G nowhere near it. Its sitting In pieces now. I envision Some Future upgrades, but love love love it as is. Mi #3 is now Pandora. I've opened Pandora's box!

 

[Shit Snacks]

This morning was nice but I got a difficult choice to choose between the 3 vapes I'm actually testing: Apollo, Guru and Milaana......and I gone for the Apollo cause the Milaana made me cough like hell yesterday evening....sorry.

But it is waiting for me, ready, with a full battery and a long stem loaded with some tasty Northern Light. I must to use it more to find my rythm and timing to get a smoother vapor. This is my only complain actually...damn the vapor is harsh and hot, difficult for my throat!

About building quality I'm not puzzled like some others peoples, I was worry about that but my unit is perfectly smooth under my finger, I can't smell any glue,the battery compartment smell like wood that's all!
There is no finish on the wood but it's a matter of time to do it myself.

A question, I know the reply is in the thread but I can't spent lot of time on FC actually, I know there is no a true consensus about it but....Do you need to stir every 1-2 hits or is it possible to not stir at all?

My second session of the day just begin....with the Milaana (sorry but I don't use to give a nickname to things) and I got some tasty hits yet...but still a bit "agressive" for my throat, I need to refine my technique.

Yeah tough to sift through everything, but lot of tips here for cooler vapor and less stirring if you want to search, its all in the technique for how you draw and how you use the trigger (easy hint: hold the trigger less and rely on residual heat with a slow steady suction draw, speed up toward the end, the heater rises in temp longer button is held). It is also tough when used to another vape, since this is a very different manual style than others (Apollo can be harsh too no? Seems you got in good with that one now) I know you can get the most of Milaana too, just practice buddy

I have had both the Zion and Milaana apart and inspected the 18mm female piece. Neither have the G-word on the screen. Unfortunately I did not get a good pic (although I post below that pic I did get), but the screen sits in place by simple pressure. The screen itself is kind of bottle-cap shaped, and the edges --extending below what you see when you look into the female joint -- hold the screen in place. This is why the instructions state to be careful when cleaning that screen: Pressure against it can move it farther down the tube to the heater. It's also why the US joint won't work -- it's too long; hence, it risks pushing the screen down.

The ONLY G-word (on both my units at least) is right on the rim of the joint.

Exactly glue only used in a safe place, heater screen is all friction fit etc.

I've had my first Mi apart many times. Screen sits in place with pressure. It is very heavy duty. G nowhere near it. Its sitting In pieces now. I envision Some Future upgrades, but love love love it as is. Mi #3 is now Pandora. I've opened Pandora's box!

Nice name choice bud!

 

[cybrguy]

It's also why the US joint won't work -- it's too long; hence, it risks pushing the screen down.

You mean why the ISO joint won't work.

 

[TheDudeNextDoor]

You mean why the ISO joint won't work.

Damnit, I'm always mixing up the names! lol. Henceforth, I shall refer to them as the Bob and Dave.

 

[adam_baumm]

Here's the planetvape.ca shorty with the rbt screen kinda deep. And the arizer extreme q tool. It fits perfectly in business end of stems for tamping. I'm worried about the metal touching the heater with the extreme q tophat that planetvape.ca puts in them.

 

[DocGonzo]

Is the heater that close to the screen? I've never really understood why it couldn't be pushed down two more mm so it works with both US and ISO. Especially since the glass itself could be recessed, which I assume moves the screen closer to the heater as well.

 

[WakeAndVape]

Is the heater that close to the screen? I've never really understood why it couldn't be pushed down two more mm so it works with both US and ISO. Especially since the glass itself could be recessed, which I assume moves the screen closer to the heater as well.

The act of an intentional push down could probably dislodge the screen, break the internal glass stem or drop on the heater and throw it off

 

[ZC]

Is the heater that close to the screen? I've never really understood why it couldn't be pushed down two more mm so it works with both US and ISO. Especially since the glass itself could be recessed, which I assume moves the screen closer to the heater as well.

After taking it apart I can tell you, there really isn't 2mm of space to push that down without touching the screen to the heater.

But, there's plenty of space underneith the heater. They could have drilled the hole a little deeper to leave more room and then used the longer ISO joint.

 

[DocGonzo]

I don't mean why you can't use ISO as it comes, I'm asking more about why it couldn't be moved 2 mm lower carefully at home, say if someone wants to remove the glass to clean off the glue and make a retaining plate or ring as a replacement. Is the heater nearly touching the screen from underneath, or could the screen be a bit lower in the glass?

edit: Looks like ZC answered with what I was looking for.

 

[WakeAndVape]

I don't mean why you can't use ISO as it comes, I'm asking more about why it couldn't be moved 2 mm lower carefully at home, say if someone wants to remove the glass to clean off the glue and make a retaining plate or ring as a replacement. Is the heater nearly touching the screen from underneath, or could the screen be a bit lower in the glass?

edit: Looks like ZC answered with what I was looking for.

ZC did provide a better answer. But I wasn't answering why you couldn't use ISO as it came, I was saying what the potential dangers might be of pushing down a pressure fit screen (without having ever taken apart one myself)...MIGHT be.

And also why it would be generally advised against (for someone like me for example) to begin with.

I'm sure shop-wise, or crafty folks would be fine navigating the waters.

 

[Oogendoogan]

An EQ cap would be fine wth those planet vape stems I think.. as long as they are filed down more than the space that the EQ screen takes up. It looks like they are more than short enough leaving room to pack a full ELB in there If you wanted and if it would fit.. Those stems are tight like the RBT ones I imagine so probably not but using the EQ cap is a great idea. Can I get these from planet vape now? I am about to order a solo gong because I just got one and wanna try it with water and I thought I should wait and get both in one order.

 

[adam_baumm]

An EQ cap would be fine wth those planet vape stems I think.. as long as they are filed down more than the space that the EQ screen takes up. It looks like they are more than short enough leaving room to pack a full ELB in there If you wanted and if it would fit.. Those stems are tight like the RBT ones I imagine so probably not but using the EQ cap is a great idea. Can I get these from planet vape now? I am about to order a solo gong because I just got one and wanna try it with water and I thought I should wait and get both in one order.

Yes . The guy who I picked up from at planetvape.ca said he was cutting them now

I am not sure if the eq screen actually touches the heater surface. I put the rbt one in and will try later and post back.

 

[cybrguy]

ZC did provide a better answer. But I wasn't answering why you couldn't use ISO as it came, I was saying what the potential dangers might be of pushing down a pressure fit screen (without having ever taken apart one myself)...MIGHT be.

And also why it would be generally advised against (for someone like me for example) to begin with.

I'm sure shop-wise, or crafty folks would be fine navigating the waters.

That, and the fact that you will void your warranty. As long as you don't care about the warranty you can try whatever you want. That warranty is much more important to me than trying to out think RBT.

Y'all need to realize that a lot of thought went in to these devices before you ever saw them...

I have one shorter joint (2mm shorter than US) that I DO use the Arizer screen in, but on my regular US joints that screen makes the joint too long and I don't use them.

 

[Bravesst]

Pandora is yet to be fired up. I can see the mica indentation. With the recessed joint, heater touches, screen, both units. On first unit there was a gap. I don't think the Screen is really adjustable, as it fits into seem of gong and tube, the angle changes here, and provides a stop for a tight, heavy, double layered screen. Can only be removed down, but with lots of pressure. I'd think the longer its in, the harder to remove. I had to really push with something of almost equal diameter, with some steady even pressure. Goes in a lot easier, hits the stop and stops.

 

[nondarb]

The ONLY G-word (on both my units at least) is right on the rim of the joint.

And the bottom cap, and the button, and the threaded post. Not bashing, simply stating fact. Most likely it contains it in the heaters screen as well (mine does), I still don't buy the press to fit screen staying swaged in place expanding and contracting under heat.

heater screen is all friction fit etc

Maybe on SOME but its clearly NOT on others and a friction fit will not stay secure (long anyways!). Making broad statements about the Milaana is a dicey situation at best with all the inconsistencies/variations it seems.. Then again this latest manufacturer is the third one unless the second simply changed their name? So that could account for some of the variants maybe?

That said mines unit #23 apparently made by Ryan himself and adhesive is plainly visible on the perimeter of the screen with my F fitting removed.

Mine has white glue. There is something white along the walls of the wood around the top of heater screen.

Mine was/is white as well, by chance is yours out of the first 50?

To those of you who measured the Ohms on your Mi's how did you go about it? I'd like to see where mine is riding, I'm also curious if anyone's recessed their own F fitting yet? I wouldn't mind a little more heat and the newer units look a fair bit more refined..

 

[DocGonzo]

That warranty is much more important to me than trying to out think RBT.

Y'all need to realize that a lot of thought went in to these devices before you ever saw them...

RBT was operating under cost and time constraints, I would not be in modifying it. Taking off the glue then securing a large washer over the female glass would be pretty easy to do. Part of the appeal of a vape this simple to me is modification and the potential for repairing minor issues myself.

 

[Vapington]

And the bottom cap, and the button, and the threaded post. Not bashing, simply stating fact. Most likely it contains it in the heaters screen as well (mine does), I still don't buy the press to fit screen staying swaged in place expanding and contracting under heat.



Maybe on SOME but its clearly NOT on others and a friction fit will not stay secure (long anyways!). Making broad statements about the Milaana is a dicey situation at best with all the inconsistencies/variations it seems.. Then again this latest manufacturer is the third one unless the second simply changed their name? So that could account for some of the variants maybe?

That said mines unit #23 apparently made by Ryan himself and adhesive is plainly visible on the perimeter of the screen with my F fitting removed.



Mine was/is white as well, by chance is yours out of the first 50?

To those of you who measured the Ohms on your Mi's how did you go about it? I'd like to see where mine is riding, I'm also curious if anyone's recessed their own F fitting yet? I wouldn't mind a little more heat and the newer units look a fair bit more refined..

so are you still comfortable using your Mi despite the above, or did you make some modifications?

 

[TheDudeNextDoor]

And the bottom cap, and the button, and the threaded post. Not bashing, simply stating fact. Most likely it contains it in the heaters screen as well (mine does), I still don't buy the press to fit screen staying swaged in place expanding and contracting under heat.

Well true...I was meaning in terms of the joint itself. Neither my Milaana nor Zion have glue on the heater screen. Both are pressure fit and actually move without much force at all. You can buy that or not, but it's the truth for the two units I have in hand.

I should add that my Zion is beta and my Milaana was among the first 10 sent out, so it's possible something changed since then. I can only speak on what I have experienced first-hand.

 

[cybrguy]

Like I said, its yours, modify it to your hearts content. Just don't expect warranty service.

And y'all remember this from his page, right?

Is there adhesive in the Zion?

Yes, Loctite® M-121HP™ Hysol® Medical Device Epoxy Adhesive is used to attach the rim of the heater glass to the wood. This is the coolest part of the heater glass and rarely does it reach over 150 degrees F which is well below the 300 F temperature limit of the this epoxy . Not only is the adhesive biologically tested to ISO 10993, a burn-off cycle is conducted at nearly 1.5 times the operating voltage to ensure any contaminants are removed from the entire heater assembly. Issues with adhesives and plastics are usually encountered when they are used outside of there temperature range. The adhesive is not part of the primary flow path and the inlet air cools the epoxy joint. All things considered, it is much safer than a power source of butane or charcoal which are known carcinogens.

 

[Bravesst]

Like I said, its yours, modify it to your hearts content. Just don't expect warranty service.

And y'all remember this from his page, right?

Is there adhesive in the Zion?

Yes, Loctite® M-121HP™ Hysol® Medical Device Epoxy Adhesive is used to attach the rim of the heater glass to the wood. This is the coolest part of the heater glass and rarely does it reach over 150 degrees F which is well below the 300 F temperature limit of the this epoxy . Not only is the adhesive biologically tested to ISO 10993, a burn-off cycle is conducted at nearly 1.5 times the operating voltage to ensure any contaminants are removed from the entire heater assembly. Issues with adhesives and plastics are usually encountered when they are used outside of there temperature range. The adhesive is not part of the primary flow path and the inlet air cools the epoxy joint. All things considered, it is much safer than a power source of butane or charcoal which are known carcinogens.

Like I said, its yours, modify it to your hearts content. Just don't expect warranty service.

And y'all remember this from his page, right?

Is there adhesive in the Zion?

Yes, Loctite® M-121HP™ Hysol® Medical Device Epoxy Adhesive is used to attach the rim of the heater glass to the wood. This is the coolest part of the heater glass and rarely does it reach over 150 degrees F which is well below the 300 F temperature limit of the this epoxy . Not only is the adhesive biologically tested to ISO 10993, a burn-off cycle is conducted at nearly 1.5 times the operating voltage to ensure any contaminants are removed from the entire heater assembly. Issues with adhesives and plastics are usually encountered when they are used outside of there temperature range. The adhesive is not part of the primary flow path and the inlet air cools the epoxy joint. All things considered, it is much safer than a power source of butane or charcoal which are known carcinogens.

Very "cool" , pun intended.

 

[Shit Snacks]

And the bottom cap, and the button, and the threaded post. Not bashing, simply stating fact. Most likely it contains it in the heaters screen as well (mine does), I still don't buy the press to fit screen staying swaged in place expanding and contracting under heat.



Maybe on SOME but its clearly NOT on others and a friction fit will not stay secure (long anyways!). Making broad statements about the Milaana is a dicey situation at best with all the inconsistencies/variations it seems.. Then again this latest manufacturer is the third one unless the second simply changed their name? So that could account for some of the variants maybe?

That said mines unit #23 apparently made by Ryan himself and adhesive is plainly visible on the perimeter of the screen with my F fitting removed.



Mine was/is white as well, by chance is yours out of the first 50?

To those of you who measured the Ohms on your Mi's how did you go about it? I'd like to see where mine is riding, I'm also curious if anyone's recessed their own F fitting yet? I wouldn't mind a little more heat and the newer units look a fair bit more refined..

Yeah I believe you, but believe me that is not normal and I would see about getting a proper one then. There should not be any glue there at all, that has always been part of the design for Milaana coming from the lesson learned in Zion... I understand yours could be different, and that you might be loathe to deal with any warranty service again, but that just doesn't sound right given the standard design for the product

 

[nondarb]

Both are pressure fit and actually move without much force at all. You can buy that or not, but it's the truth for the two units I have in hand.

Oh I believe that, just not that they will stay affixed by pressure and pressure alone for extended periods of time. Saying they are pressure fit with a little play is entirely believable. Infact I imagine its gotten looser over time?

so are you still comfortable using your Mi despite the above, or did you make some modifications?

No modifications outside of finish sanding and roughing up the female fittings glass before reinstalling. I still use it some, after the first day or two any sort of glue smell dissipated. Honestly I'm not scared of a little 2 part epoxy, but I'm not sure if I should be!? I'll have to study up on the appropriate threads I suppose...

Yes, Loctite® M-121HP™ Hysol® Medical Device Epoxy Adhesive

This is out of date information. I was told as recently as late May the epoxy is low odor Devcon 5 minute 2 part. Not sure if that's better or worse, just thought it may be worth noting!

I understand yours could be different, and that you might be loathe to deal with any warranty service again, but that just doesn't sound right given the standard design for the product

While I agree that it shouldn't be there I will not be sending my unit away with it in a functional state. My warranty dealings were rather unpleasant thus far (you know!), I'd like to avoid it at most any cost save actually voiding it.

Should have some more HG2's in the mail today. I'll delegate my HE4's to other uses, the HG2 seems to preform considerably better the first 2-3 stems in my experience. After 2-3 stems I typically swap batteries anyways, granted I could get more at the expense of extra button time. I suppose butane vapes have made me inpatient!?

 

[TheDudeNextDoor]

Oh I believe that, just not that they will stay affixed by pressure and pressure alone for extended periods of time. Saying they are pressure fit with a little play is entirely believable. Infact I imagine its gotten looser over time?

Possible, I suppose, but I don't know. It was snug enough not to move on its own, but it didn't take much force to move it either. It definitely made me more conscious of using a very light touch when sweeping anything off the heater screen.