Discontinued Sublimator XLR

[Monsoon]

I tried messing around with the dial. I don't think it is an issue with the dial-box.

I checked the electrical contacts both within the power supply and on the cord that plugs into the wall, and nothing seems to be wrong.

Probably best to contact Sublimator support. If by chance you live in Quebec, you're covered by the Legal Warranty (provincial law) in which case Sublimator should be covering shipping costs to replace the part. Otherwise it's up to them, though hopefully they're more lenient given that you only just received it.

 

[RandomHero]

So I ordered an XLR style DNail recently. It hasn't come yet but I'm curious what would happen if I tried to connect my Apollo to my DNail controller or vice versa, DNail to Sublimator Control Box?

Could I use a normal XLR Microphone extension cable to extend the length of my Apollo connection?

Just ideas running through my head...

 

[slowbeans]

Probably best to contact Sublimator support. If by chance you live in Quebec, you're covered by the Legal Warranty (provincial law) in which case Sublimator should be covering shipping costs to replace the part. Otherwise it's up to them, though hopefully they're more lenient given that you only just received it.

I've contacted customer support; after a few back and forth messages to check all the possible issues, the support team and I came to the conclusion that the power supply had somehow burned out. They're going to send me a replacement power supply.

From my experience, the support team was quick and helpful!

 

[PlanetHaze]

So I ordered an XLR style DNail recently. It hasn't come yet but I'm curious what would happen if I tried to connect my Apollo to my DNail controller or vice versa, DNail to Sublimator Control Box?

Could I use a normal XLR Microphone extension cable to extend the length of my Apollo connection?

Just ideas running through my head...

The Sublimator XLR connector pin out is custom and will not work with standard XLR extension cables, other controllers or XLR based attachments other than those made and sold by Sublimator.
PV

 

[grokit]

This is how I'm wiring my 1.0 box with XLR:

Does the 2.0 use a 3-prong plug or a polarized 2-prong like the 1.0?

 

[mestizo]

This is how I'm wiring my 1.0 box with XLR:

Does the 2.0 use a 3-prong plug or a polarized 2-prong like the 1.0?

Hi Grokit, I'll be receiving mine soon, I'll let you know when I do, unless somebody else who owns one chime in.

 

[ElevatedMechanics]

I need to get a XLR 2.0, Current Sublimator is sitting next to me plugged in-Love this thing!

 

[Monsoon]

I looks like I may be testing an XLR model this weekend, probably the Dabmaster, so I'll write up a comparison. I'm really looking forward to trying it since I'm still on the fence about upgrading from the 1.0 model.

 

[RandomHero]

This is how I'm wiring my 1.0 box with XLR:

Does the 2.0 use a 3-prong plug or a polarized 2-prong like the 1.0?

My XLR has a 2 prong plug, the negatives and positives aren't marked though.

I looks like I may be testing an XLR model this weekend, probably the Dabmaster, so I'll write up a comparison. I'm really looking forward to trying it since I'm still on the fence about upgrading from the 1.0 model.

I'm really interested in the dabmaster. Any chance you'll be using solventless extracts on it? That's what I'm most curious about.

 

[elmomuzz]

The Sublimator XLR connector pin out is custom and will not work with standard XLR extension cables, other controllers or XLR based attachments other than those made and sold by Sublimator.
PV

If it doesn't conform to the XLR standard why use the term?

 

[PlanetHaze]

This is how I'm wiring my 1.0 box with XLR:
Does the 2.0 use a 3-prong plug or a polarized 2-prong like the 1.0?

grokit, not sure you realize XLR connections are for low voltage DC use only, if you try to run 110v AC through the unprotected XLR connector you will electrocute yourself! We have seen you post this idea several times, thought you were joking at first, but now not sure if it is a good idea to keep posting ideas like this on public forums where others will read this and take it seriously.

If it doesn't conform to the XLR standard why use the term?

We are not the designers, but it is still an XLR connector, there are a vast array of pin outs anywhere from 2 to 7 pins. See the often sourced Wiki for more info http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector
PV

 

[Monsoon]

I'm really interested in the dabmaster. Any chance you'll be using solventless extracts on it? That's what I'm most curious about.

Probably not since what I have isn't full melt, don't want to gunk up my buddy's new unit. I have used bubblehash inside the atomizer on a second screen and it worked pretty well but you should only dab in the holes with extracts that don't leave a trace.

 

[Vapodudule]

Good point @Monsoon for the washing for the inside of an Appolo from the dab residue if there is some. Does the Xlr 2.0 permits to take the Appolo piece apart to soak or it would void the warranty and destroy the unit?

I remember the videos of Enrico In Cuba taking his Appolo Ti Apart. May be there is a way to take it apart w/o breaking any connection. May be another silent improvement for 2.0.

 

[RandomHero]

Probably not since what I have isn't full melt, don't want to gunk up my buddy's new unit. I have used bubblehash inside the atomizer on a second screen and it worked pretty well but you should only dab in the holes with extracts that don't leave a trace.

So you've been using a second screen in the atomizer to hold your solventless extracts? I tried making a bed of herbs for my extract to sit on top of. It worked but not amazingly well. I figure the extracts would need a higher temperature than my ground herbs.

Can you ballpark how hot you got the unit before ripping bubble in your atomizer?

 

[Monsoon]

So you've been using a second screen in the atomizer to hold your solventless extracts? I tried making a bed of herbs for my extract to sit on top of. It worked but not amazingly well. I figure the extracts would need a higher temperature than my ground herbs.

Can you ballpark how hot you got the unit before ripping bubble in your atomizer?

I just dropped an extra screen in so as to not gunk up the main one, you could do without it. Don't know the temperature/wattage I used but I'm pretty sure it was higher than for herbs. I was using unpressed bubblehash too so results might be different if it's been pressed first.

 

[Detonator]

grokit, not sure you realize XLR connections are for low voltage DC use only, if you try to run 110v AC through the unprotected XLR connector you will electrocute yourself! We have seen you post this idea several times, thought you were joking at first, but now not sure if it is a good idea to keep posting ideas like this on public forums where others will read this and take it seriously.


We are not the designers, but it is still an XLR connector, there are a vast array of pin outs anywhere from 2 to 7 pins. See the often sourced Wiki for more info http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector
PV

True 110 V can electrocute people this is probably the reason for the switch to the new low voltage control box. Correct?

 

[grokit]

So yeah I saw that about xlr power.
That's why I haven't whipped out my soldering iron out yet!
I have the connectors laying around from audio use.

I would like to use those old-school connectors for electric fry pans etc.
But they're obsolete for a reason I would imagine.

So sub 2.0 is transformed to 24(?)v dc to the heads (I think max is 48v?),
while sub 1.0 is 115v ac all the way through.
Sorry for the intrusion here, I will continue this in the 1.0 thread.

 

[smokum]

Voltage 'burns', AMPERAGE 'KILLS'... remember, it only takes 20 mA to start a heat, so it can just as easily STOP it

 

[grokit]

Yeah I agree it's easy to see why they changed with the 2.0.

So now we have both low and high-current versions of sublimators.

it will be interesting to see if any difference in actual usage is discovered,
between the two versions down the road.

 

[Detonator]

Yeah I agree it's easy to see why they changed with the 2.0.

So now we have both low and high-current versions of sublimators.

it will be interesting to see if any difference in actual usage is discovered,
between the two versions down the road.

I think the Sublimator Lawyers said wait you got people holding a 110 volt thing on top of water filled glass tubes up to there face? hhmmm? Maybe low voltage is better! But don't worry most of em will pay 250$ just to get the new low voltage XLR version with the lights and everything will be ok......

I aint scared but I aint no lawyer....... lol

 

[grokit]

Livin' on the edge with sub 1.0!

 

[Detonator]

Livin' on the edge with sub 1.0!

yep,



now if you just want your cord longer on your sub 1.0 you can cut it and just put an extension cord soldered in ( mine is soldered in 12ft long ) with or with out regular extension cord plugs.. no fancy plugs are needed..

the longer cord makes it safer cause the box is out of the way and less like to pull it over...

if they really used there own xlr connectors then it might be more difficult to extend the cord on the 2.o but I doubt that would be hard to get around....

 

[grokit]

If it's two-pin dc they might be going with the obsolete yamaha electric piano strategy:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector#Obsolete_patterns

 

[PlanetHaze]

True 110 V can electrocute people this is probably the reason for the switch to the new low voltage control box. Correct?

We heard it was for a future battery pack to make it transportable, needs to run on low voltage DC for this.

So sub 2.0 is transformed to 24(?)v dc to the heads (I think max is 48v?), while sub 1.0 is 115v ac all the way through.
Sorry for the intrusion here, I will continue this in the 1.0 thread.

Sub 2.0 is 36v DC

If it's two-pin dc they might be going with the obsolete yamaha electric piano strategy:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector#Obsolete_patterns

It is actually based off of a 3 pin XLR
PV

 

[grokit]

We heard it was for a future battery pack to make it transportable