Portable halogen vape.

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
I found this video interested.


Am I right in thinking any 3s 11.1v lipo could power a g4 halogen?

You could get a much smaller lipo such as the one used In the PSM.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy...light-compatible-eflb0995.html?___store=en_us

For people who know more about these things, is this a good idea?

How to add USB charging?
There are already 12v power banks (even one with replaceable cells)that can do the job for any logvape ,icluding the halo-ones.
I have a working prototype of a 510 halogen device,but most mods chips overheats after a 2-3 minutes continuos operation for some reason with them and still havent found a workaround,but if you dont go back to back it works. I have best success with Smoant Battlestar
Sadly photos have gone to shit.,
There are even power banks with stepless voltage output :).
H1c541d7e81574da1bf7aafc0e7a70ccdD.jpg

 
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KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Hell no! Quoting the first result for halogen bulb resistance here:

"The initial halogen lamp resistance value can be up to 1/15 the steady-state resistance value, resulting in a high inrush current for the first few cycles after switching on. So, the ratio between the inrush current and the steady-state current can be up to 15."

Some extra read here: https://www.edaboard.com/threads/halogen-lamp-limit-resistor.385899/

Running a cold bulb directly from a Lipo could mean basically shorting it for a brief while, and with that much current rating it can be dangerous. You'd need a soft-start of some kind to limit the inrush current.
 
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FlyingLow

Team NO SLEEP!
I used 3s300-3s5000 lipo's for power for ages... used primarily to recharge via usb, did not set up for passthrough power.

I used this little anodized Secraft XT60 to USB adapter. It was the cleanest looking and simplest setup I liked.

secraft_usb_charging_adaptor-1.jpg
 
FlyingLow,
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Hippie

Well-Known Member
Wasn't the Venus Apollo a portable Halogen vape?

I think they used a higher wattage bulb than needed, to make it work

I advise you do the maths first, if you're gonna experiment
Using Ohms law
V=IR and P=IV
V = voltage
I = Current
P = Power
R = Resistance
To calculate your expected max and min values, to be safe
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
AFAIK the Appolo and its predecessor had power electronics inside, it was not just a high discharge rate battery pack (especially those RC hobby ones) directly connected to a bulb.

Once the bulb is hot it really draws its rated power so no worries, the problem is the initial inrush current until its resistance rises and settles. Some kind of soft-start / ramp-up with a PWM driver and/or current limiting would be better.
 
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badbee

Well-Known Member
So from what I understand I need a BMS? Would this do the job? Again I have taken this from the PSM parts list.

That should be fine. Note that you also need a variable buck\boost circuit so you can adjust power. Cells need to be charged externally unless you also add a charging circuit, a BMS is not a charger. Others have mentioned the issue with high start up currents for Halogen bulbs so you might also need a soft start or constant current circuit that prevents big current spikes. That is a feature found on better buck\boosts. These things tend to reach a level of complexity that requires a custom PCB if you want them small enough to be portable.
 
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