tgvp
Well-Known Member
Hey there,
I recently bought an IH for my DV and the currently available model was the UFO, a simple looking (kinda like a BT speaker) and cheap IH but with an interersting customization, you can tune the deepness of the DV insertion in the heater by swapping glass tubes. The description and what I read on the internet (and on this forum) just says that different tube length will lead to a more or less aggressive heating. And this is where I struggle, cause I don't care about the emotional state of my heater, I just want to achieve an efficient extraction of both taste and effect, thus my need of a better understanding. As a side note, until now I've been a (mostly happy) single flame butane torch user for 2 years.
From what I remember from my physics classes is that inductive heating is generated by an varying electrical current passing through a coil generating an electromagnetic field in which a conductive metal piece is inserted and the generated eddy currents in the said piece will dissipate as heat by Joule effect. In our case, the the coil is in the heater, surrounding the glass tube and the conductive metal piece is the cap of the DV. So the tip will heat up and by conduction will transfer part of its heat to the tip. And when I draw, the air will heat up by contact with both the cap and the tip and will flow through the weed (partially pre-heated by contact with the tip) to extract the brain-nutriments I crave for.
Now we introduce the variables, first one being the depth at which the DV is inserted. With the default tube which is shallow, there is less of the cap exposed to the magnetic field, so I suppose the energy absorbed is more or less the same, but as the hot part is located closer to the tip of the cap, where the click mechanism is, then it will click faster, having less time to dissipate heat in the tip, resulting in a lower temperature for the extraction? And by contrast, with the deeper tube, more of the cap is exposed, so it will have more surface to dissipate the same amount of energy, resulting in a slower heating of the click mechanism, but more dissipation in the tip, thus achieving higher temp when I draw?
Another variable is the method, such as the pulse method or doing 2 heatings back to back by using the magnet to cooldown the click mechanism faster. Once again, in my undestanding, by doing the pulse method, you input heat in the system, but interrupt before the click in order to give time to said heat to transfer to the tip while avoiding to let the cap reach the temperature where it clicks then repeat it which results in a build up of heat in the tip. And by using the magnet, I fasten the cooling of the clicking mechanism even if the rest is still hot and I can start a new heating faster. But by using the magnet, I will dump part of the heat into said magnet instead of the tip, so wouldn't it be better to wait for a few seconds to let part of said heat reach the tip then sticking it to the magnet?
Last one is the width of the glass tube. As 2 of the bundled tubes have the same depths but one is thicker than the other. I don't get what is the difference regarding to the heating as glass is transparent to magnetic fields. So what's the point?
Does any of this rumble make sense? I'm probably overthinking it as always, but I've got a quite nice heating method with my torch for both weed and rosin (with the DynaCoil) and while I'm happy with weed by using just the "middle tube" up to the click and repeating until it is tasteless, for the rosin, I'm not as satisfied yet.
P.S. Those are the parameters I see for this specific heater, but some models give access to customization of the electric power (W) in the coil or have an infrared thermometer. I suppose the power gives an effect similar to the depths (lower power will result in slower heating -> more time to transfer heat to the tip before the click) and the temperature... I don't know, as it can only read the temp on the surface (the cap) and not inside (the tip). If you have an opinion on those, I take it too
I recently bought an IH for my DV and the currently available model was the UFO, a simple looking (kinda like a BT speaker) and cheap IH but with an interersting customization, you can tune the deepness of the DV insertion in the heater by swapping glass tubes. The description and what I read on the internet (and on this forum) just says that different tube length will lead to a more or less aggressive heating. And this is where I struggle, cause I don't care about the emotional state of my heater, I just want to achieve an efficient extraction of both taste and effect, thus my need of a better understanding. As a side note, until now I've been a (mostly happy) single flame butane torch user for 2 years.
From what I remember from my physics classes is that inductive heating is generated by an varying electrical current passing through a coil generating an electromagnetic field in which a conductive metal piece is inserted and the generated eddy currents in the said piece will dissipate as heat by Joule effect. In our case, the the coil is in the heater, surrounding the glass tube and the conductive metal piece is the cap of the DV. So the tip will heat up and by conduction will transfer part of its heat to the tip. And when I draw, the air will heat up by contact with both the cap and the tip and will flow through the weed (partially pre-heated by contact with the tip) to extract the brain-nutriments I crave for.
Now we introduce the variables, first one being the depth at which the DV is inserted. With the default tube which is shallow, there is less of the cap exposed to the magnetic field, so I suppose the energy absorbed is more or less the same, but as the hot part is located closer to the tip of the cap, where the click mechanism is, then it will click faster, having less time to dissipate heat in the tip, resulting in a lower temperature for the extraction? And by contrast, with the deeper tube, more of the cap is exposed, so it will have more surface to dissipate the same amount of energy, resulting in a slower heating of the click mechanism, but more dissipation in the tip, thus achieving higher temp when I draw?
Another variable is the method, such as the pulse method or doing 2 heatings back to back by using the magnet to cooldown the click mechanism faster. Once again, in my undestanding, by doing the pulse method, you input heat in the system, but interrupt before the click in order to give time to said heat to transfer to the tip while avoiding to let the cap reach the temperature where it clicks then repeat it which results in a build up of heat in the tip. And by using the magnet, I fasten the cooling of the clicking mechanism even if the rest is still hot and I can start a new heating faster. But by using the magnet, I will dump part of the heat into said magnet instead of the tip, so wouldn't it be better to wait for a few seconds to let part of said heat reach the tip then sticking it to the magnet?
Last one is the width of the glass tube. As 2 of the bundled tubes have the same depths but one is thicker than the other. I don't get what is the difference regarding to the heating as glass is transparent to magnetic fields. So what's the point?
Does any of this rumble make sense? I'm probably overthinking it as always, but I've got a quite nice heating method with my torch for both weed and rosin (with the DynaCoil) and while I'm happy with weed by using just the "middle tube" up to the click and repeating until it is tasteless, for the rosin, I'm not as satisfied yet.
P.S. Those are the parameters I see for this specific heater, but some models give access to customization of the electric power (W) in the coil or have an infrared thermometer. I suppose the power gives an effect similar to the depths (lower power will result in slower heating -> more time to transfer heat to the tip before the click) and the temperature... I don't know, as it can only read the temp on the surface (the cap) and not inside (the tip). If you have an opinion on those, I take it too
