Discontinued Pax Vaporizer by Ploom

[Jarva]

i am still looking around for authorized dealers

 

[Wizsteve]

i am still looking around for authorized dealers

your only best option is to buy directly from ploom unless you can't you wont save more than 25 dollars
on a new one used one you can get for 180 or so .

 

[Belgianvapor]

I'm not sure if this is correct but the way it went for me the last few times I cleaned my pax, every single one of those times I got my temp light button stuck because of the iso that touched the light.
What I do then is I take a piece of tissue paper, fold it pointy and flatten it and then I squeeze it thin, this way I can reach in the gap between the button and the side and suck up some of the iso.
then I wait an hour or so (my button doesn't get stuck right away anymore) and then when the button is stuck (almost every time) I jiggle it back and forth, horizontal and vertical untill it's loose again.
because it's always been a succes (untill now) cleaning isn't as stressfull anymore for me :-)

 

[jeff]

Sorry, my post bothered you so much! And who wants to read through 397 pages? I have read many, sir. I only finally registered after not finding an answer while skimming through.

Onion it wasn't your question that offended the man. The eye roll was not at you. It was at the Trolls on this thread that refuse to believe notches exist. Note to said trolls. I am just messing with y'all by calling you trolls. Much love.

 

[TommydCat]

Much love back to our notch-less brethren.

 

[fogbank]

I recently converted to #0000 steel wool. I think this may be a valid suggestion for addressing the loose screen issue as well.

The main downside of a loose screen is its tendency to pop up and displace the load in the oven. If you tend not to pack your loads this problem is amplified because the "brick" has more room to disperse when the screen pops up.

I tried rolled/bent up pipe screens on top of the load but all tended to pop out, much like a loose Pax screen.

Using #0000 steel wool to pack the load has allowed me to use any size load I want and get consistently great vapor production at lower temp settings. As an added bonus it helps keep the oven lid clean.

If a super clean oven is causing the Pax screen to pop up, maybe topping the load with the steel wool and packing it in will help keep it in place until more resin can build up.

 

[HSIHP]

I recently converted to #0000 steel wool. I think this may be a valid suggestion for addressing the loose screen issue as well.

The main downside of a loose screen is its tendency to pop up and displace the load in the oven. If you tend not to pack your loads this problem is amplified because the "brick" has more room to disperse when the screen pops up.

I tried rolled/bent up pipe screens on top of the load but all tended to pop out, much like a loose Pax screen.

Using #0000 steel wool to pack the load has allowed me to use any size load I want and get consistently great vapor production at lower temp settings. As an added bonus it helps keep the oven lid clean.

If a super clean oven is causing the Pax screen to pop up, maybe topping the load with the steel wool and packing it in will help keep it in place until more resin can build up.

I have always been a skeptic about using steel wool but since I've been using cotton a bunch (not it the Pax) I think I'm more willing to try it out.

Is there any chance using steel wool could be a bad thing? Maybe some impurities or other things that you would not want to breath in?

 

[fogbank]

Is there any chance using steel wool could be a bad thing? Maybe some impurities or other things that you would not want to breath in?

The worst I could find was "Dust or particles produced by use of this product may cause mild irritation to the eyes and respiratory system".

I don't consider what I'm doing to be "use" in the traditional sense, since normally steel wool would be subject to intense friction as part of its typical application.

I certainly would not BURN the stuff, but I don't think that breathing through it while it is heated to relatively low temperatures should be harmful.

 

[CarlosSpiceyWeiner]

I've been using good old aluminum foil. Just folded into an oven sized brick. You can make different thicknesses for smaller or larger loads.

I'm sure there will be talk about inhaling aluminum foil can lead to Alzheimer's. But I believe that's from burning the aluminum foil and inhaling the fumes. There is no burning going on. So I feel it's okay.

Oh yeah, @fogbank. Oven lid stays clean too!

 

[Doug]

Oh man. I just joined the Pax club tonight. This thing is pretty impressive for a portable. Now to learn all the tips n tricks. Has anybody put together an ultimate user guide to the pax somewhere out there?

 

[Wizsteve]

I'm not sure if this is correct but the way it went for me the last few times I cleaned my pax, every single one of those times I got my temp light button stuck because of the iso that touched the light.
What I do then is I take a piece of tissue paper, fold it pointy and flatten it and then I squeeze it thin, this way I can reach in the gap between the button and the side and suck up some of the iso.
then I wait an hour or so (my button doesn't get stuck right away anymore) and then when the button is stuck (almost every time) I jiggle it back and forth, horizontal and vertical untill it's loose again.
because it's always been a succes (untill now) cleaning isn't as stressfull anymore for me :-)

my post is couple pages back ,but i solved all these problems lol

The lube your using is the problem it dissolves in water vapor is water and when it dries out gets sticky
use food grade lube instead .however this is a design flaw of the pax the button should far away from the vapor path.possible fix is a o ring that will fit making a tight seal. also charge with mouth piece up.

for the screen just cut a mirco razor foil to the shape of the screen or cut and use a volcano oil pad .
(pad to thick for me but other may like using less)

 

[Shadowdjinni]

I recently converted to #0000 steel wool. I think this may be a valid suggestion for addressing the loose screen issue as well.

The main downside of a loose screen is its tendency to pop up and displace the load in the oven. If you tend not to pack your loads this problem is amplified because the "brick" has more room to disperse when the screen pops up.

I tried rolled/bent up pipe screens on top of the load but all tended to pop out, much like a loose Pax screen.

Using #0000 steel wool to pack the load has allowed me to use any size load I want and get consistently great vapor production at lower temp settings. As an added bonus it helps keep the oven lid clean.

If a super clean oven is causing the Pax screen to pop up, maybe topping the load with the steel wool and packing it in will help keep it in place until more resin can build up.

I found that quad 0 was too light and felt that #00 was where it's at. I only use it to scrub the screen though. With my 90% Iso, I pre-soak the screen as I clean everything else with a nondisposable pipe cleaner. That gets dipped in the 90%, the extra is dabbed off with a paper towel, and I'm able to get the mouthpiece, bottom, and inside the chamber.

Side note: I've found that a nail clipper's dirt remover is the right hardness and angle, with the little curved end, to remove the excess resin that builds up under the screen and around the bottom pathway hole. The dirt remover, for me, is dipped in Iso and I just scrape around the edges with moderate pressure then wipe it off on a paper towel. No scratches or damage so far; personal mileage may vary.

 

[Da_Man]

I found that quad 0 was too light and felt that #00 was where it's at. I only use it to scrub the screen though. With my 90% Iso, I pre-soak the screen as I clean everything else with a nondisposable pipe cleaner. That gets dipped in the 90%, the extra is dabbed off with a paper towel, and I'm able to get the mouthpiece, bottom, and inside the chamber.

Side note: I've found that a nail clipper's dirt remover is the right hardness and angle, with the little curved end, to remove the excess resin that builds up under the screen and around the bottom pathway hole. The dirt remover, for me, is dipped in Iso and I just scrape around the edges with moderate pressure then wipe it off on a paper towel. No scratches or damage so far; personal mileage may vary.

Hey guys I'm thinking about getting a pax and was just wondering, other than the issues most people have with the pax which result from not cleaning the device are there any problems with it?

 

[Wizsteve]

Hey guys I'm thinking about getting a pax and was just wondering, other than the issues most people have with the pax which result from not cleaning the device are there any problems with it?

for pocket dry herb vape that holds the most its a good choice,it holds more than most ,so if you want a vape to carry around in your pocket pax is a good choice.

personally its the only one on the market that will fit in my pocket and holds a good amount
the other pocket vapes i seen are too small and /or made to use oils and waxes.

so yes if you need a portable vape buy the pax.

 

[Belgianvapor]

my post is couple pages back ,but i solved all these problems lol

The lube your using is the problem it dissolves in water vapor is water and when it dries out gets sticky
use food grade lube instead .however this is a design flaw of the pax the button should far away from the vapor path.possible fix is a o ring that will fit making a tight seal. also charge with mouth piece up.

for the screen just cut a mirco razor foil to the shape of the screen or cut and use a volcano oil pad .
(pad to thick for me but other may like using less)

I don't use the lube and I never tried it either
I don't have any problems with my pax, it was more a post about the fact that the sticking light button (from iso use) is not the worst thing that can happen because it happened a couple times with my pax

 

[Wizsteve]

I don't use the lube and I never tried it either
I don't have any problems with my pax, it was more a post about the fact that the sticking light button (from iso use) is not the worst thing that can happen because it happened a couple times with my pax

yes and what i was saying if ppl used the food grade lube the button wouldnt stick lol nor would anything else .

 

[Belgianvapor]

the temp button gets stuck because it reacts with the iso it's not getting stuck from resin

 

[Wizsteve]

yes lol i got that ,its late i guess i am not explaining what i mean .

so will ask you why you need to clean it than? why use iso at all there?

 

[Belgianvapor]

yes lol i got that ,its late i guess i am not explaining what i mean .

so will ask you why you need to clean it than? why use iso at all there?

because when it gets dirty, I have to clean the vapor path, I do that with a pipe cleaner and some iso, to get it real shiny again, when I do that, a little bit sometimes spills in the part where the temp button light is

*edit* there might be other things that could be used than iso but alot of the things that are available in the us are not available in Belgium and are way to expensive to order overseas
I don't like to do it with water when it's hot or whatever, I like to use iso, I use it on all my vaporizers, it gets things clean

 

[Wizsteve]

aww i see i never have that happen to me . i use a dry pipe cleaner to remove the screen,than go in from the oven side wet but it never spills i think your using too much iso on your pipe cleaner.

also was trying to tell you is my lube would prevent it from stuck from the iso since it would provide some protection from the iso.

you pax is air tight right not leaking vapor inside mouthpiece?

 

[Belgianvapor]

aww i see i never have that happen to me . i use a dry pipe cleaner to remove the screen,than go in from the oven side wet but it never spills i think your using too much iso on your pipe cleaner.

also was trying to tell you is my lube would prevent it from stuck from the iso since it would provide some protection from the iso.

you pax is air tight right not leaking vapor inside mouthpiece?

I rotate the use of my vaporizers alot, so I don't use my pax daily so I don't have that much problems with resin build up.
I cleaned the spring area once but that wasn't really needed s not much build up there either.
I don't have much if any of the general "pax problems" so I guess there is not much vapor leaking into the mp area.
While cleaning I always try to use as little iso as possible but when my pipe cleaner is too dry, it leaves more fluff behind than cleaning the tube so it's always a delicate balance for me between just enough and just too much.

 

[mossontree]

Sorry if I posted in the wrong section, but I just made my account. I recently got the pax and I cleaned it when I got it (I got it used). It worked well for the first 5 or so sessions, but now whenever I turn it on by clicking the mouthpiece up, it'll briefly show the heating symbol and then it'll switch to the mode that asks me to select my heat as if the mouthpiece were removed. The only way for it to stay in heating mode is to slightly hold down the mouthpiece or slightly bend it to one side. I've tried cleaning it, but nothing changes. Maybe I'm not cleaning something. Any ideas someone?

mod note: Moved to correct thread, which you clearly have not read. Please search before posting, thanks.

 

[mossontree]

Sorry if I posted in the wrong section, but I just made my account. I recently got the pax and I cleaned it when I got it (I got it used). It worked well for the first 5 or so sessions, but now whenever I turn it on by clicking the mouthpiece up, it'll briefly show the heating symbol and then it'll switch to the mode that asks me to select my heat as if the mouthpiece were removed. The only way for it to stay in heating mode is to slightly hold down the mouthpiece or slightly bend it to one side. I've tried cleaning it, but nothing changes. Maybe I'm not cleaning something. Any ideas someone?

mod note: Moved to correct thread, which you clearly have not read. Please search before posting, thanks.

sorry mods, as i said im new to the forum, and I was on my phone. Well after looking around this thread it seems people dont have the exact issue i describe as my temp button still works, changes settings, and depresses normally.

 

[Deadshort480]

sorry mods, as i said im new to the forum, and I was on my phone. Well after looking around this thread it seems people dont have the exact issue i describe as my temp button still works, changes settings, and depresses normally.

You are getting the most common Pax problem, the temperature light issue. It's all about how clean you keep your Pax.

 

[Wizsteve]

sorry mods, as i said im new to the forum, and I was on my phone. Well after looking around this thread it seems people dont have the exact issue i describe as my temp button still works, changes settings, and depresses normally.

is it recharging? charge with mouthpiece up .post some pics of inside if possible otherwise clean than lube fixes most of these problems

http://www.vapecritic.com/blog/2013/03/12/pax-cleaning/