Paper Roasting Tubes

Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
Looking for a solution to cleaning roasting tubes that is also affordable and easy?
Paper roasting tubes may be the answer. They have the following benefits.
Affordable
Disposable
Renewable
Unbreakable
Light weight
Easy to make
Adds no taste
Provides a good air seal
Screen stays cleaner longer
Can be made almost any size or length
Doesn’t rob heat away from roast
No chance of burning your skin from a hot tube

paperandcorkroastingtube.jpeg


I am using tapered cork tube connectors to secure plain white paper wrapped around an appropriately sized dowel or rod, which is then removed to create the paper tube.
A basket screen fits into the end of the tube and holds firmly onto the paper within the cork connector. The tapered cork connector allows the paper roasting tube to fit into any 18mm female connection units like 7th floor, Lamart, iHeat and GTVF.
This paper roasting tube fits my 7/16” ss heater cover. Will have to see how long it lasts. So far the screen is staying very clean.

Paper roasting tubes will work for any herbal roasting system that uses a separate tube to hold the herbal material. Let’s see how creative everyone can be.

Happy Roasting
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Sounds interesting,but what paper is it ? Baking paper ? Isnt white paper bleached ?
I have rolled stems out of 0.1mm SS316 foil ,it works great,to keep it rolled together i just flatten it a bit towards the mouth end.. You can stack layers if you want to increase heat retention. That foil also works great for lining wooden stems, much easier than with tubing.
 

Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
The tube w/ cork sleeves is just plain white printer paper. The tube w/ silicone sleeves is made from 25% cotton bond paper. Brown paper can also be used. Ideally, the paper would be made from hemp. There is wheat or rice paper as an option. Bleach is probably used to get the paper so white, but is washed away with water as part of the process.
The ss foil is a great idea. It can be cleaned by unrolling the foil to access the oil. Just have to careful of sharp edges with the foil.
I'm finding the less heat absorbed by the roasting tube, the more even the roast. Less heat loss to the tube results in less oil condensing, which is why the screen stays cleaner.
 

Razhumikin

Well-Known Member
I was playing around with my Heat Island today and on a whim I inserted the glass part of my turbo tube into the silicon mouthpiece of my 3" paper tube, and I think this is my new favorite way to use the HI.
It combines the cooling and flavor of the glass with the paper tube's lack of clogging and lack of heat absorption, a really great pairing.
 
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Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
I was playing around with my Heat Island today and on a whim I inserted the glass part of my turbo tube into the silicon mouthpiece of my 3" paper tube, and I think this is my new favorite way to use the HI.
It combines the cooling and flavor of the glass with the paper tube's lack of clogging and lack of heat absorption, a really great pairing.
That is exactly how I use my paper roasting tube for my 3/8" ss heater cover HI. The glass feels nicer on your lips than the silicone. I also place some hemp fiber in the glass tube as a filter. It catches the particles that make it through the screen and makes the vapor smoother. I enjoy roasting the filter when it gets dirty.

Here is another paper roasting tube I made recently. It works well in any 18mm female joint units, like the iHeat, P80, etc.
16mmsilprt.jpeg

The paper is wrapped around a 16mm glass tube and secured with a silicone ring/sleeve. It works with both 14mm and 18mm GonG tubes, in addition to plain end glass tubes. The screen can be either a 5/8" flat screen that uses the glass tube for a stop, or a 3/4" screen can be formed into a basket shape, so it only touches the paper and provides a full 16mm of air flow through the screen. The air flow through the flat 5/8" screen is limited by the ID of the glass tube, which is around 12mm. It has the largest diameter roasting bowl and best air flow of any 18mm tube I have ever used. I have also been using a tap method for stirring. While the material is still hot, I tap the side of the roasting bowl downward at a 45 degree angle, which causes it to lift and flip in the bowl. The material gets fluffed, so the air flow stays good.
Here is how the end of the paper roasting tubes look.
prtscreens.jpeg

The paper roasting tube around the 16mm glass is on the left. Tube for the 7/16" ss heater cover is in the middle. Tube for the 3/8" ss heater cover is on the right.
 

darkstar72

Well-Known Member
I will be getting a paper roasting tube from Alen along with a custom HI. Not sure if the paper aspect is safe. Anyone have thoughts on this? Like how much would the paper chemicals leach out?
 

Razhumikin

Well-Known Member
Im pretty sure its safe, there shouldnt be any chemicals in the paper that will leach. Bleach is used to create the paper but it is washed out long before it reaches the consumer. I have been using a paper stem from Alan for a while and like it quite a bit. You can also (theoretically) use any paper you want to make the stem, so you could use an unbleached hemp fiber if thats really something you are worried about. I should note though that i have found it very difficult to remake a tube with any paper that is not standard printer paper, due to the varying thickness of the paper. Not impossible im sure, but quite difficult for my admittedly clumsy hands.
 

darkstar72

Well-Known Member
IMG-20220602-115908877.jpg
Please forgive my double post but here is my hemp paper roasting tube setup. It's good for small amounts. The short and narrow paper tube fits inside the heat island's heater cover. The paper tube allows for more heat at the herb before the glass starts to absorb the heat. This is my favorite way to roast herb. Convection in small doses.
 
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Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
The hemp paper roasting tubes look great @darkstar72. I have never made one where the paper tube fits inside the heater cover. Always going for a size that holds larger amounts.

Have made a few more paper roasting tube variations recently. Here is the one I use the most.
18mmcorkprtwpa.jpeg

18mmcorkprtend.jpeg

18mmcorkprttop.jpeg

It uses a champagne cork w/ a 3/4” bored hole as a sleeve for the paper tube. The screen is 3/4” w/ the edges slightly formed into a basket shape. The sharp edges of the screen allows it to remain in place within the paper tube, so there is nothing to block the area behind the screen. There is no buildup in the tube at the screen perimeter, since any oil that does condense, absorbs into the paper. An 18mm male end fits inside of the paper tube, so it works with any 18mm injector style unit, like the GTR-M. The end of the paper tube just fits into an 18mm female connection, so it works with any 18mm enveloping style unit, like the GTR-F or iHeat. It has the largest capacity of all my paper tubes and the screen can be positioned at the appropriate depth for the style of roasting unit being used. It works the best as a WPA, so that the screen stays covered and the material doesn’t fall out. The connection to the dry pipe or water filter is 18mm male.
Here is how it looks using a redwood burl wood sleeve to hold the paper tube. Never need to clean the wood, just replace the paper tube.
18mmredwoodburlprtwpa.jpeg


A couple more I made a while back for the UD alpha. A 14mm hole in the cork or wood sleeve allows the paper tube to be the appropriate size for the UD alpha. The silicone sleeve fits into a 14mm fitting for use as a WPA. Since the paper tube OD is 14mm, it may also fit the Toad, Nomad, and Imp.
alphacorkprt.jpeg

alphawalnutprt.jpeg


Another paper tube I made uses a cork sleeve with a 16mm hole, which allows them to fit the TinyMight.
tmcorkprt.jpeg


Finally made an 18mm tapered cork sleeve for a paper roasting tube that fits a 3/8” ss heater cover.
38corkprt.jpeg
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Have made a few more paper roasting tube variations recently. Here is the one I use the most.
18mmcorkprtwpa.jpeg

18mmcorkprtend.jpeg

18mmcorkprttop.jpeg

It uses a champagne cork w/ a 3/4” bored hole as a sleeve for the paper tube. The screen is 3/4” w/ the edges slightly formed into a basket shape. The sharp edges of the screen allows it to remain in place within the paper tube, so there is nothing to block the area behind the screen. There is no buildup in the tube at the screen perimeter, since any oil that does condense, absorbs into the paper. An 18mm male end fits inside of the paper tube, so it works with any 18mm injector style unit, like the GTR-M. The end of the paper tube just fits into an 18mm female connection, so it works with any 18mm enveloping style unit, like the GTR-F or iHeat. It has the largest capacity of all my paper tubes and the screen can be positioned at the appropriate depth for the style of roasting unit being used. It works the best as a WPA, so that the screen stays covered and the material doesn’t fall out. The connection to the dry pipe or water filter is 18mm male.
Here is how it looks using a redwood burl wood sleeve to hold the paper tube. Never need to clean the wood, just replace the paper tube.
18mmredwoodburlprtwpa.jpeg

Always innovating! These look great, I am going to reach out to order one of the injector style setups, having removable paper bowl with screen housed in the wood shell is brilliant!! Think I need one just like that redwood burl... Need more recognition!!!
 

Oil420FL

Well-Known Member
Always innovating! These look great, I am going to reach out to order one of the injector style setups, having removable paper bowl with screen housed in the wood shell is brilliant!! Think I need one just like that redwood burl... Need more recognition!!!
Yes and I was looking at Alan's post and thinking that when my name comes up for a custom I am going to ask about a wood shell to match the log :-) I get that the cork is practical and has natural flex for a secure fit, but "Champagne don't drive me crazy" like the look of that wood
 

darkstar72

Well-Known Member
Yes and I was looking at Alan's post and thinking that when my name comes up for a custom I am going to ask about a wood shell to match the log :-) I get that the cork is practical and has natural flex for a secure fit, but "Champagne don't drive me crazy" like the look of that wood
Alan's woodwork is excellent.
 
darkstar72,
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Haze Mister

Verdant Bloomer
Manufacturer
Over paper is food safe and heat proof, and oil will not stick to it ---sounds ideal but what else is in it?

Please forgive my double post but here is my hemp paper roasting tube setup. It's good for small amounts. The short and narrow paper tube fits inside the heat island's heater cover. The paper tube allows for more heat at the herb before the glass starts to absorb the heat. This is my favorite way to roast herb. Convection in small doses.
This is a brilliant re-purposing of combustion related product!!! This is the shit I come here for! :clap:
 
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Haze Mister,

Hagbard Celine

Well-Known Member
Hello all. Alan sent a paper roasting tube secured using silicon bands to use with my standard 3/8" core HI a couple of years ago. When I got it, I promptly tried it a few times - I liked it - but I didnt spend too much time playing around with it. Fast forward a couple of years... I still had it sitting around here and decided to try it out some more, and man I really love using this tube! It roasts more easily/quickly/evenly than any other tube I've tried with the HI.

I've decided that I need to make a few more of these. I have a couple more crafted already, but i must admit that it has been a bit finicky for me to make them with my clumsy hands. I'm looking for some pointers...

I've been wrapping regular white printer paper around wooden dowels. But I struggle to get them to be the exact diameter that work best. Sometimes they turn out just a tiny bit too small, making it difficult to get the screen in there without smashing the opening end of the paper tube. I resorted to try to make the tubes with a screen already in place while rolling the tube, but this has been challenging to keep together. Other times they turn out a tiny bit too big, and when I try to get silicon bands around the ends of the paper tube, I wind up crushing the tube a bit.

Can anyone provide better tutorials on how they make their paper roasting tubes? Maybe I need to source the exact right sized wooden dowel and silicon tubing to make this work better. Any help?
 

Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
Hello all. Alan sent a paper roasting tube secured using silicon bands to use with my standard 3/8" core HI a couple of years ago. When I got it, I promptly tried it a few times - I liked it - but I didnt spend too much time playing around with it. Fast forward a couple of years... I still had it sitting around here and decided to try it out some more, and man I really love using this tube! It roasts more easily/quickly/evenly than any other tube I've tried with the HI.

I've decided that I need to make a few more of these. I have a couple more crafted already, but i must admit that it has been a bit finicky for me to make them with my clumsy hands. I'm looking for some pointers...

I've been wrapping regular white printer paper around wooden dowels. But I struggle to get them to be the exact diameter that work best. Sometimes they turn out just a tiny bit too small, making it difficult to get the screen in there without smashing the opening end of the paper tube. I resorted to try to make the tubes with a screen already in place while rolling the tube, but this has been challenging to keep together. Other times they turn out a tiny bit too big, and when I try to get silicon bands around the ends of the paper tube, I wind up crushing the tube a bit.

Can anyone provide better tutorials on how they make their paper roasting tubes? Maybe I need to source the exact right sized wooden dowel and silicon tubing to make this work better. Any help?
3/8” wooden dowels are generally a little smaller than 3/8” in diameter, which will make a paper tube that can be too tight. Using something exactly 3/8”, like a ss tube, works the best. It is possible to wrap the wooden dowel with masking tape to make it larger in diameter. 1” wide tape will almost make a complete wrap around the dowel. Cut the tape the same length as the wood dowel. Place the tape on the table sticky side up, then lay the dowel on the center of the tape and wrap it around the wood. It may require a second piece of tape to make it large enough in diameter. Since the ID of the silicone sleeve is 3/8” and the OD of the paper is 7/16”, it needs to stretch a bit. I find it works best to install the silicone sleeve while the wood dowel is still in place to keep the paper from smashing.
Another recently discovered option for making paper roasting tubes for 3/8” ss heater covers is to use a wine cork or wooden tube with a 7/16” hole drilled through it. Expand the rolled paper tube until it is tight in the cork sleeve and it fits the 3/8” heater cover nicely. Can still use a silicone sleeve for a mouthpiece.
 

Hagbard Celine

Well-Known Member
3/8” wooden dowels are generally a little smaller than 3/8” in diameter, which will make a paper tube that can be too tight. Using something exactly 3/8”, like a ss tube, works the best. It is possible to wrap the wooden dowel with masking tape to make it larger in diameter. 1” wide tape will almost make a complete wrap around the dowel. Cut the tape the same length as the wood dowel. Place the tape on the table sticky side up, then lay the dowel on the center of the tape and wrap it around the wood. It may require a second piece of tape to make it large enough in diameter. Since the ID of the silicone sleeve is 3/8” and the OD of the paper is 7/16”, it needs to stretch a bit. I find it works best to install the silicone sleeve while the wood dowel is still in place to keep the paper from smashing.
Another recently discovered option for making paper roasting tubes for 3/8” ss heater covers is to use a wine cork or wooden tube with a 7/16” hole drilled through it. Expand the rolled paper tube until it is tight in the cork sleeve and it fits the 3/8” heater cover nicely. Can still use a silicone sleeve for a mouthpiece.

Thanks Alan. Do you also install the screen while the wood dowel is still in place?

Edit: Wow, put a couple strips of tape around the dowel, and this last one I made was the quickest/easiest yet! I found that a little piece of clear tape on the ends helps to keep the paper tube together, and also might be helping to slide the silicon bands around. Still kinds futzing with getting the screens down in place. I was able to push the screen down pretty easily this time while the dowel was still in place, but once the screen is pushed down I'm finding it VERY difficult to move it back up if you need to adjust... I'm using basket screens FWIW (I think that's what the one you sent me had as well).
 
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Hagbard Celine,

Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
Thanks Alan. Do you also install the screen while the wood dowel is still in place?

Edit: Wow, put a couple strips of tape around the dowel, and this last one I made was the quickest/easiest yet! I found that a little piece of clear tape on the ends helps to keep the paper tube together, and also might be helping to slide the silicon bands around. Still kinds futzing with getting the screens down in place. I was able to push the screen down pretty easily this time while the dowel was still in place, but once the screen is pushed down I'm finding it VERY difficult to move it back up if you need to adjust... I'm using basket screens FWIW (I think that's what the one you sent me had as well).
I remove the dowel before installing the screen and stand the paper tube vertically on a table while inserting the screen so that the center of the roll can't be pushed out. The screen stays in place by the edges biting into the paper. It is fairly easy to push in, but almost impossible to push back out, so be careful how deep you place the screen. You can push the screen all the way through and start again if it is too deep. The sewing needle tool can be used to help get the screen level in the paper tube by pushing on the high side.
 

Hagbard Celine

Well-Known Member
I remove the dowel before installing the screen and stand the paper tube vertically on a table while inserting the screen so that the center of the roll can't be pushed out. The screen stays in place by the edges biting into the paper. It is fairly easy to push in, but almost impossible to push back out, so be careful how deep you place the screen. You can push the screen all the way through and start again if it is too deep. The sewing needle tool can be used to help get the screen level in the paper tube by pushing on the high side.

Excelllent. I need to stand the tube up vertically as you say, the center of the paper was getting pushed out. This should probably do the trick.

Thanks for also verifying the difficulty in getting the screen back up, yes I have had to push one all the way through already to reseat
 
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