Discontinued Omicron Vaporizer for oils

[mob]

I was using 1 pure gold cap in a new cart and the first 3 or 4 hits went smooth then I set it down for a while, when I came back and tried again I got a harsh metal taste, everything was/is brand new. I mean I blew out a fat cloud it just tasted like robocops ass. Any ideas of what I could be doing wrong? When taking moderate to fat rips how many hits should one pure gold cap last? It tasted like it was cashed already.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

Guys your gonna hate me for this, but the new units being shipped out today will have the fill tools, and the fill tools for everyone who currently has them will be shipped out to me on Tuesday. So i should get it by December 12th and will have them available for current Omicron Users.

I am truly sorry for this, they packaged the fill tools with the current units, and did not have extra to ship out.

Please forgive us and we will make it up to everyone soon.

 

[mob]

Just weighed the cart 8.2 so its not empty....strange, hope i dont taste that again.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

Just weighed the cart 8.2 so its not empty....strange, hope i dont taste that again.

A hit is 1x5 seconds. Some people count a dose 3x5 seconds. That is wrong. That would be 3 doses.

It really depends on a person, some people do 3 second hits, some do 6 seconds. Its to wide to set a standard, but we count 1x5 second as a dose.

 

[Keak420]

I just grabbed a pure gold as well shots the truth fat clouds!! Weird mine has a citrus taste.

 

[DubCRider]

Citrus is how it should taste.

Mob- it may not have run all the way down the cart. Put a flame to the top of your cart for 4-6 seconds to melt it down. The metallic taste is just the heating elements getting hot. Similar to a hair dryer.....

 

[lesvape]

Are you expecting the Centauri to have the same or less battery life vs the Omicron? I take it that the flower cartridges will also work on the Centauri?

 

[PurpleHaazeHashOil]

So when I load the cart, could I just touch my oil (non-sticky), and put it into the cartridge with a dental tool? And then if necessary, maybe heat it lightly with a creme brulee torch? Or do I need to stick to heated up and a bic. I am hesitant to use a bic, as the residue is not something I like to consume.
Also, I have my oil in clear 1 dram vials, a .8 gram and a .4 gram vial. Should I load both, or will the unit work better with just .8 in it.

 

[DubCRider]

Just load the .8 to start.

Any way you decide to get the oil in will work. Your above stated method will definitely work but not as fast as the frosting tip. You can do a frosting tip and mini torch. Just be sure to avoid torching the cart lower than the mouthpiece covers.

 

[eLiguL]

THC SCIENTIFIC: Will PV have the same policy in regards to the new filling tool? Or would I have to do it directly with you?

 

[mob]

Citrus is how it should taste.

Mob- it may not have run all the way down the cart. Put a flame to the top of your cart for 4-6 seconds to melt it down. The metallic taste is just the heating elements getting hot. Similar to a hair dryer.....

yeah most likely, i've used it about 10 times since with no issue so hope i just fucked up somehow draw wise, or like you had said.

btw sj heads elemental is a no-go on pre-fills atm.

 

[Keak420]

Pure gold is magic in this thing woke up still baked lol!! Sucks tho I have 6 carts and can't tell them apart should had labeled them. Is the nitro og then the pure gold? And the wax elemental had last night was 3 different colors so I passed.

 

[mob]

I tried that nitro og when it first hit up here when it still came with the teal caps, that was before i got the omicron though.
Iam sure it'll be a whole beautiful new world once i load it in a cart.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

Sorry guys, no drop shipping for toys for tots contest, your original receipt from Delta9vapes.com must be included in the box. It just getting out of hand trying to match orders.

 

[MarcellusWiley]

reposting from page 37, hope I get a response this time

@THC
Just wondering if you are still going to be sending an e-mail when you receive my vape. as I didn't know (or maybe it wasnt there) that you had the 25.00 trade in built-in to the website now. So I had no transaction ID included.
I'm thinking you guys should receive it fairly soon if you haven't. Just wondering what my next step might be now that you have the trade-in on the website.

Sent it the Friday before thanksgiving. probably about two weeks ago. Just wondering if there's any info!

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

reposting from page 37, hope I get a response this time

@THC
Just wondering if you are still going to be sending an e-mail when you receive my vape. as I didn't know (or maybe it wasnt there) that you had the 25.00 trade in built-in to the website now. So I had no transaction ID included.
I'm thinking you guys should receive it fairly soon if you haven't. Just wondering what my next step might be now that you have the trade-in on the website.

Sent it the Friday before thanksgiving. probably about two weeks ago. Just wondering if there's any info!

Please use the contact us page on www.delta9vapes.com its better to log this type of questions.

 

[SD_haze]

Looks like I have the omicron on its way

San Diego isn't known for its affordable oils/waxes, so might have to drive up to LA to stock up on some primo stuff.

Definitely looking forward to this pre-occupying me during Cloud Wait 2011

 

[MarcellusWiley]

reposting from page 37, hope I get a response this time

@THC
Just wondering if you are still going to be sending an e-mail when you receive my vape. as I didn't know (or maybe it wasnt there) that you had the 25.00 trade in built-in to the website now. So I had no transaction ID included.
I'm thinking you guys should receive it fairly soon if you haven't. Just wondering what my next step might be now that you have the trade-in on the website.

Sent it the Friday before thanksgiving. probably about two weeks ago. Just wondering if there's any info!

Please use the contact us page on www.delta9vapes.com its better to log this type of questions.

done, thanks!

 

[shobi]

I had a cartridge that I thought had stopped working and wanted to know for sure but THCScientific hasn't released their testing tool yet.

For the Omicron to work, electricity flows from the battery through the cartridge completing a simple circuit. Therefore all we need is a continuity tester to see whether a cartridge is good or bad.

For you DIY types that have a volt meter that also measures resistance (ohms), you can test your cartridges (both new and used) to see if they are working.

Here's the meter I used, iirc, I got it for about 15 bucks at Lowes.

The ranges on my meter for resistance are 200, 2k, 20k and 200k.

I set the meter at 200.

Here is an incomplete circuit (probes not touching), and it reads 1 on the meter.

Here are the probes being touched together, the meter measures a resistance 00.0 (there is still resistance in the wires)

Here is the meter testing a good cartridge that is in-use

Here is the meter testing a good cartridge that is un-used

Here is the meter testing a bad cartridge (THCScientific says the resistance reading should be 5.4)

I'm sure a cheap tester could be made with an led, resistor and battery. A plug-in or screw-in socket would be easier than touching probes/wires to the cartridge.

 

[OF]

First post, after nearly a year of lurking and hugely profiting from the collective wisdom and experience, let me thank those who have helped in that effort (on this and several other products I enjoy thanks to the advice). Then again, you clowns are the basic reason I'm short of Christmas money at the moment........

Finally, I have a chance to contribute something useful (I hope) by way of payback.

The above 'DMM ohmmeter test' is going in the right direction as I understand it, but it's still a bit wide of the mark. The good carts should measure 1.5 ohms as a result of the TWO HEATER COILS inside. They are 3 ohms each, and being in parallel give a total resistance of 1.5 when both are intact. Not 2.7 which is too close to 3 and too far from 1.5 to be conclusive. One 'burned out' (or otherwise defective) coil will show 3 ohms but will not work in that it won't either vaporize oil or feed it to the second chamber to be fed to the vaporizer coil. Both have to work for our purposes.

The meter above can give a useful test, but you need to do a little more. First, use the lowest range available, we need to see low resistances and small differences. A range or two lower (CCW on the switch) will give more resolution. And at these lower ranges the resistance of the leads (usually pretty cheap) the ohm or so involved can cause us issues. The correct technique is to first touch the probes together to read their total resistance (probably a bit over an ohm here?), this value is then subtracted from the second reading (meaning the true reading from the cart is probably closer to 1.7 ohms.

So that's the drill. Use a range where the answer comes up 1.500 ohms, not 001.5, and subtract the error from the leads (so you get the actual reading of the cart, not the total of it and the leads).

Thanks again for the past good info, please keep it coming (I actually have a little money left.....), I'll go back to lurking until I can contribute again.

OF

 

[shobi]

First post, after nearly a year of lurking and hugely profiting from the collective wisdom and experience, let me thank those who have helped in that effort (on this and several other products I enjoy thanks to the advice). Then again, you clowns are the basic reason I'm short of Christmas money at the moment........

Finally, I have a chance to contribute something useful (I hope) by way of payback.

The above 'DMM ohmmeter test' is going in the right direction as I understand it, but it's still a bit wide of the mark. The good carts should measure 1.5 ohms as a result of the TWO HEATER COILS inside. They are 3 ohms each, and being in parallel give a total resistance of 1.5 when both are intact. Not 2.7 which is too close to 3 and too far from 1.5 to be conclusive. One 'burned out' (or otherwise defective) coil will show 3 ohms but will not work in that it won't either vaporize oil or feed it to the second chamber to be fed to the vaporizer coil. Both have to work for our purposes.

The meter above can give a useful test, but you need to do a little more. First, use the lowest range available, we need to see low resistances and small differences. A range or two lower (CCW on the switch) will give more resolution. And at these lower ranges the resistance of the leads (usually pretty cheap) the ohm or so involved can cause us issues. The correct technique is to first touch the probes together to read their total resistance (probably a bit over an ohm here?), this value is then subtracted from the second reading (meaning the true reading from the cart is probably closer to 1.7 ohms.

So that's the drill. Use a range where the answer comes up 1.500 ohms, not 001.5, and subtract the error from the leads (so you get the actual reading of the cart, not the total of it and the leads).

Thanks again for the past good info, please keep it coming (I actually have a little money left.....), I'll go back to lurking until I can contribute again.

OF

I edited my post to show that the meter I use has a resistance of 00.0 when the probes are touching and listed the ranges available on my meter and that I had chosen the lowest range on the meter.

thanks for the info on the two wires. I guess I was thinking more in terms of continuity than in terms of resistance. I knew I could use the resistance meter part to test continuity.

 

[OF]

Interesting indeed.

Given those readings, I'd have to say the cart was defective, wouldn't you? If a good cart reads 1.5 ohms and a defective one reads 3.0 or infinite depending on one or both heaters opening, I'd have to say 2.7 is a whole lot closer to 3.0 than 1.5. 2.7 is well within specs for most low cost DMMs this case. The typical spec is one percent (at best) of full scale (2 ohms in this case) plus or minus one count (.1 ohms here). Thus a 3.0 reading could show up as anything between .9 (two ohms and one count low), however unlikely that really is, and 5.1 ohms (2 ohms and a count high). This is, of course, why you try to use a meter that uses a larger percentage of full scale and more resolution if you can.

The cart could also, of course, be a dead short (zero ohms) which we also need to check for against that 1.5 ohms expected.

So, I'd have to say, given the instrument and measurement made the cart is actually defective??? "The proof is in the vaping" of course...... Often such measures are most useful if they are relative to a known. What does a known good cart read on that meter that way?

It's a good test generally, I'm picking some (IMO important) nits with how much we can count on the data.

Fun stuff, thanks for the additional info.

OF

 

[Vitolo]

Ut Oh... 3 carts all filled, and Battery appears to be dead!

 

[bruno13]

Each cart has a resistanes of about 2.4 ohm. So the 2.7 one is fine. When the two probes are touched together the resistance of the wires is not zero. It should be so small that you may not be able to read it on your meter, but it should show 0.00, meaning there is some resistance and there is continuity. A reading of "1 ." means infinite resistance, ie, no continuity.

 

[shobi]

Each cart has a resistanes of about 2.9 ohm. So the 2.7 one is fine. There is nothing in parallel in there. The "two heaters" are one peice of wire with a total resistance of about 2.9 ohm. When the two probes are touched together the resistance of the wires is not zero. It should be so small that you may not be able to read it on your meter, but it should show 0.00, meaning there is some resistance and there is continuity. A reading of "1 ." means infinite resistance, ie, no continuity.

thanks for summing it up nicely.

all I wanted to show was, imo, all that's needed to 'test' a cartridge is something that tests continuity and I happened to use a meter I had on hand.

A couple pieces of wire, battery and flashlight bulb would work just as well.

THCScientific, please correct me if I'm wrong, but the cartridges either work or don't work, but they don't partially burn out, hence a simple continuity test is all that's needed to see if a cartridge is good or bad.