As we grow and learn our priority is our clients we always try to make things simpler for them, I appreciate the feed back you and @FlyingLow provided regarding our customer care. Thanks again.
On a side note. Nibbler AC's back in stock.
Discontinued Omicron Vaporizer for oils
- Thread starter THC SCIENTIFIC
- Start date
As we grow and learn our priority is our clients we always try to make things simpler for them, I appreciate the feed back you and @FlyingLow provided regarding our customer care. Thanks again.
On a side note. Nibbler AC's back in stock.
elmoe420
Well-Known Member
Replacement tip from molehillmountain and new Omicron dated, 08/16. I bought mine when they first came out. Compared to the first ones, the button is a lot more firm. The new tip is just as flawless as the first.
Looking good!
Glad Molehill mountain is back. Guess they sell "necklaces" now.
@THC SCIENTIFIC
Turned one cooling fin off the top of an AC V2 base today. Now my "broken" Nibbler AC fits down over the base further. With the LD battery and no skirt on the Nibbler it is the perfect pocket size. I can't post a pic. If I can email it or text it to someone who can post it let me know.
Turned one cooling fin off the top of an AC V2 base today. Now my "broken" Nibbler AC fits down over the base further. With the LD battery and no skirt on the Nibbler it is the perfect pocket size. I can't post a pic. If I can email it or text it to someone who can post it let me know.
I am going to say that it may thread onto that battery but if it does fire the Herc without frying then it won't last very long at all. I wouldn't suggest trying it if I were you.
I use an evic vtc dual with my Herc with one battery and it works great at 23w on power mode. I have the SR-71 with the black rod.
Just be sure to get good batteries.
Mike
Last edited:
mikek9
Vapor Enthusiast
The site recommends a 40w capable battery for the newest Hercules cart to get the full potential.
23w sounds low. It would be like using my Omicron V4 to try and power it with a max of 19w. W9Tech told me it would actually work, but for now they recommend a box mod with at least 40w capability to get the full Hercules experience. This is in reference to the newest Hercules currently for $129 on their site.
I asked about when W9Tech will release a new and current battery that is capable and they couldn't say much other than sit tight. No promise, but I think they are in development of something beastly.
23w sounds low. It would be like using my Omicron V4 to try and power it with a max of 19w. W9Tech told me it would actually work, but for now they recommend a box mod with at least 40w capability to get the full Hercules experience. This is in reference to the newest Hercules currently for $129 on their site.
I asked about when W9Tech will release a new and current battery that is capable and they couldn't say much other than sit tight. No promise, but I think they are in development of something beastly.
The chart on the W9tech site states the black sr-71 rod is rated for 16w. The original sr-71 rod is up to 40w and the 510 Herc rod is recommended to be used between 20 and 30w.
23w with my .95ohm rod will make huge hits.
Mike
mikek9
Vapor Enthusiast
I feel as if you didn't even read my message or just skimmed it since I said things like "The site recommends a 40w capable battery for the newest 510 Hercules cart to get the full potential." - I specifically said NEWEST and even gave the correct price of $129. The newest Hercules is not the SR-71(which I think is their first one from 2012), they are not the same at all really, but similar designs.
To clarify, this is the one I was talking about in my post:
https://www.w9tech.com/cartridges/hercules-oil-cartridge/
To further my point, the SR-71 is available for $70 US, whereas the new 510 Hercules I am referencing is $130 US. That's a $60 US difference - which can suggest a few things like outdated design, something no longer in production that is being cleared out or other reasons. After reading the article posted to W9Tech's site on January 07,2017 by samurai sam about the Evolution of vaporizers (it was an interesting read):
https://www.w9tech.com/oil-vaporizer-news/hercules-generational-changes-and-our-newest-510-herc/
Here is the quote about the power requirements for the newest 510 Hercules. Also to note, these are designed for sub-0hm vaporizers and doesn't give a voltage requirement like the older Herc cartridges did like 7.4v or 3.7v. You can't operate the newest Hercules on many older vapes, even with higher wattage if they are not sub-ohm I believe.
Anyway, here is the bit about the requirements for the new and current Hercules for $129
"
The Hercules Oil Vaporizer is not an easy to use, take it out of the box & get going pen. It is a professional grade tool intended for advanced vaporists only and it must be cleaned, assembled and adjusted correctly to output vapor. It can vaporize a wide variety of materials, but works best with stable (thick/solid) full-melt extracts. It must be operated with a specific technique (taking care to passively draw instead of allowing hot oils to sit stagnant) or it may leak internally and fail to perform, but in the hands of someone who has learned how to use it the performance is unparalleled. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions about how to maintain and use the Hercules if you aren't sure it's a good fit before making a purchase.
Hercules is designed to operate within a suggested wattage range of 20-35 watts on 510 threaded devices. While we cannot recommend any specific third party power supplies for use with the Hercules, many box mods capable of firing at 0.8 ohms and providing up to 30w of power should be an eligible candidate. An electrical tester/multimeter is strongly suggested.
This is a native 510 threaded Hercules and it's not compatible with 601 threaded bottom insulators. It is not compatible with V1-V5 Persei with no exceptions."
@THC SCIENTIFIC - From the samurai sam article, the older SR-71's rod design allowed for the hottest temps/highest powers. Then it appears changed for the SR-74 which didn't allow for as much power and likely suffered in the cloud making department? The SR-74x seemed to remedy that with a hybrid like rod design from the SR-71 which appeared to increase the power available. What I am wondering, is how does a 4-5v new Hercules cartridge according to the article outperform the apparently most powerful SR-71 in cloud production? Also, if it does require only 4-5v, could the Omicron V4 power it? I was told over the phone that it would work, but since my V4 only has up to 4.2V and 19W available, I wouldn't get the full potential unless using a 40w box mod. Lastly, why did you guys change on your site the suggestion of a 40w box mod? Now it says 25-35 watts on the product page, but it says 20-35 in Samurai Sam's article? If it does work alright with the v4 I might just order one to play with and learn before W9Tech released a hopefully new generation device that is more than capable of powering the new 510 Hercules.
-oddly, a few days ago it recommended a 40w box mode to power it, but I guess they figured lowering the requirement might sell more since more people have the goods to power it and 30w probably perform well, but I would assume 40w would give the fastest and biggest rips.
Last edited:
I read every word. This post as well. Not arguing with you at all. Just clarifying that I have the older model and the new 510 rod is suggested to be used between 20 and 30w according to W9tech.
All of the Hercules are extremely similar in design. Biggest difference is design of the connection on the bottom of the rod, either spring loaded or friction fit. The rest is air flow, a different wick and size of the chamber. Rods are somewhat interchangeable.
If you notice the sale price sr-71 does not come with the $20 titanium wick, the $10 double o ring base that is compatible with 510 threads and the Nibbler XL or the box and tool. Add another $20 for the black rod to make it run well with a "smaller" mod so that it is comparable to the 510 Hercules and that old model isn't really that good of a deal.
PS: IIRC the 510 is also made from a better grade of stainless steel. @THC SCIENTIFIC , did I miss much? Lol
All of the Hercules are extremely similar in design. Biggest difference is design of the connection on the bottom of the rod, either spring loaded or friction fit. The rest is air flow, a different wick and size of the chamber. Rods are somewhat interchangeable.
If you notice the sale price sr-71 does not come with the $20 titanium wick, the $10 double o ring base that is compatible with 510 threads and the Nibbler XL or the box and tool. Add another $20 for the black rod to make it run well with a "smaller" mod so that it is comparable to the 510 Hercules and that old model isn't really that good of a deal.
PS: IIRC the 510 is also made from a better grade of stainless steel. @THC SCIENTIFIC , did I miss much? Lol
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
Hi-o, since thc scientific hasn't dropped by to answer your questions and since I wrote the article that you're referring to, I hope I can clear up some of the confusion
The SR-71's press fit bottom post did allow for more power to be transmitted than the two piece spring loaded post that has been used since, the -71's side-clamping solid fitment means that lots of electrons can flow w/out resistance up through the post to the rod. Coupled with a 1.5 ohm rod, send 7.4V and you get a lot of power, up to 47 watts IIRC. As the battery voltage falls, the power output falls a bit too. The -71 was powerful so you'd use short pulses of power with it, continuously drawing to try and keep it in a good flavor zone. The SR-74 and later posts have a spring that pushes into the bottom of the rod and the parts of that post must fit together. It's not as solid of a connection which is why its rated for a maximum of 35 watts, and its White rods had higher resistance to deliver less power at 7.4V:
The reason the SR-74 didn't have as much power is due to it using the highest resistance (~2.3 ohm) rod. Again, this matters only on a Persei, and if you were using a 510-601 bottom adapter with a sufficiently capable box mod it could produce the exact same power as any other Hercules or rod. The next generation -74x dropped the resistance 0.2 ohms to give a small bump in power. With either the -74 or -74x you would use longer button pulses than the -71 to achieve the same vapor; or the same technique would produce a lot less vapor (but why would you want to use it that way). With a box mod its much much much easier to set the power level you want and get the vaping experience you want dialed in with the Herc via a combination of power level & pulse technique (or a low enough power level & dialed cool-down tech) that pulsing isn't crucial- let off the button a few seconds before you end your hit, and enjoy slurpin' terps.
I hope this helps! I better get back to packing up this box...
In my personal experience I never achieved much vapor with any Omicron at 19 watts but perhaps newer Omicron V4 are able to send out more power. I am able to achieve vapor at 19 watts on any box mod I have tried, and I do recall asking if it might be worth while to expand the stated operating range of the Hercules from 20-35 watts a little further, say 15-35 watts, because many users really enjoy the awesome flavors of lower wattage vaping. The lower the wattage, the more the entirety of the oil load and Herc chambers are heated, compared to higher wattages which tend to vaporize powerfully right at the rod. When used with appropriately shorter button pulses, higher wattage operation can solve excessively long cool down issues and leakage... I used to use my Herc like that but now i just leave it low and slurp terps...
Just wanted to state in case it wasn't known, that the wattage chart derived wattages are simply equated out using the Ohm's Law calculator, because all previous SR versions were designed for the Persei operating at either 7.4V (any White rod) or 3.7V (the Black rod). That's why voltages were stated for those models- since the batteries inserted into the Persei determine the power and the correct rod must be used with those batteries for proper operation. With the newest Hercules, a rod of the same resistance (~0.8 ohms) as the Black rod, formerly designated for 3.7V is used. The higher resistance White rod from SR-71, -74, -74x may be used on a box mod, or more preferably the older SR series Black rod, or the current ".8" rod inside the "Hercules Oil Cartridge" with lower resistance may be used with a variable wattage box mod. Any of the rods will work, I've run them all. But for less voltage boosting, the lower resistance rods don't need as much voltage to reach your target wattage.
The different generations of Hercules, particular all SR-71 and onwards are very, very similar designs, and that's what I hoped to outline in my article were the minor revisions between each generation. The biggest changes were going from the SR-71 chamber to the SR-74; the deeper chamber of the SR-71 held more oil and allows 2 Ti coils to be used, the shorter upper chamber & rod placement of the SR-74x and 510 Herc works best with one coil only. And the next 'major' change was the 510 threading natively on all parts, and the 510 made out of a higher quality steel compared to all previous versions. Regarding pricing, all previous versions had a $99.99 MSRP for at least 1.5 years; I bought both my first two Hercs (first -74, then -71) for that price at retail stores. The price for the SR-71 listed at w9tech is only lowered now, if you read the item description, is because it's an unboxed bare unit without a wick, no instructions, and no tool. The SR-71, 74, and -74x all retailed for that hundred dollar price point, so there's really only a $30 increase going to the 510 threaded Herc; not a 60 dollar one.
The SR-71's press fit bottom post did allow for more power to be transmitted than the two piece spring loaded post that has been used since, the -71's side-clamping solid fitment means that lots of electrons can flow w/out resistance up through the post to the rod. Coupled with a 1.5 ohm rod, send 7.4V and you get a lot of power, up to 47 watts IIRC. As the battery voltage falls, the power output falls a bit too. The -71 was powerful so you'd use short pulses of power with it, continuously drawing to try and keep it in a good flavor zone. The SR-74 and later posts have a spring that pushes into the bottom of the rod and the parts of that post must fit together. It's not as solid of a connection which is why its rated for a maximum of 35 watts, and its White rods had higher resistance to deliver less power at 7.4V:
The reason the SR-74 didn't have as much power is due to it using the highest resistance (~2.3 ohm) rod. Again, this matters only on a Persei, and if you were using a 510-601 bottom adapter with a sufficiently capable box mod it could produce the exact same power as any other Hercules or rod. The next generation -74x dropped the resistance 0.2 ohms to give a small bump in power. With either the -74 or -74x you would use longer button pulses than the -71 to achieve the same vapor; or the same technique would produce a lot less vapor (but why would you want to use it that way). With a box mod its much much much easier to set the power level you want and get the vaping experience you want dialed in with the Herc via a combination of power level & pulse technique (or a low enough power level & dialed cool-down tech) that pulsing isn't crucial- let off the button a few seconds before you end your hit, and enjoy slurpin' terps.
I hope this helps! I better get back to packing up this box...
Last edited:
mikek9
Vapor Enthusiast
Hi-o, since thc scientific hasn't dropped by to answer your questions and since I wrote the article that you're referring to, I hope I can clear up some of the confusion In my personal experience I never achieved much vapor with any Omicron at 19 watts but perhaps newer Omicron V4 are able to send out more power. I am able to achieve vapor at 19 watts on any box mod I have tried, and I do recall asking if it might be worth while to expand the stated operating range of the Hercules from 20-35 watts a little further, say 15-35 watts, because many users really enjoy the awesome flavors of lower wattage vaping. The lower the wattage, the more the entirety of the oil load and Herc chambers are heated, compared to higher wattages which tend to vaporize powerfully right at the rod. When used with appropriately shorter button pulses, higher wattage operation can solve excessively long cool down issues and leakage... I used to use my Herc like that but now i just leave it low and slurp terps...
Just wanted to state in case it wasn't known, that the wattage chart derived wattages are simply equated out using the Ohm's Law calculator, because all previous SR versions were designed for the Persei operating at either 7.4V (any White rod) or 3.7V (the Black rod). That's why voltages were stated for those models- since the batteries inserted into the Persei determine the power and the correct rod must be used with those batteries for proper operation. With the newest Hercules, a rod of the same resistance (~0.8 ohms) as the Black rod, formerly designated for 3.7V is used. The higher resistance White rod from SR-71, -74, -74x may be used on a box mod, or more preferably the older SR series Black rod, or the current ".8" rod inside the "Hercules Oil Cartridge" with lower resistance may be used with a variable wattage box mod. Any of the rods will work, I've run them all. But for less voltage boosting, the lower resistance rods don't need as much voltage to reach your target wattage.
The different generations of Hercules, particular all SR-71 and onwards are very, very similar designs, and that's what I hoped to outline in my article were the minor revisions between each generation. The biggest changes were going from the SR-71 chamber to the SR-74; the deeper chamber of the SR-71 held more oil and allows 2 Ti coils to be used, the shorter upper chamber & rod placement of the SR-74x and 510 Herc works best with one coil only. And the next 'major' change was the 510 threading natively on all parts, and the 510 made out of a higher quality steel compared to all previous versions. Regarding pricing, all previous versions had a $99.99 MSRP for at least 1.5 years; I bought both my first two Hercs (first -74, then -71) for that price at retail stores. The price for the SR-71 listed at w9tech is only lowered now, if you read the item description, is because it's an unboxed bare unit without a wick, no instructions, and no tool. The SR-71, 74, and -74x all retailed for that hundred dollar price point, so there's really only a $30 increase going to the 510 threaded Herc; not a 60 dollar one.
The SR-71's press fit bottom post did allow for more power to be transmitted than the two piece spring loaded post that has been used since, the -71's side-clamping solid fitment means that lots of electrons can flow w/out resistance up through the post to the rod. Coupled with a 1.5 ohm rod, send 7.4V and you get a lot of power, up to 47 watts IIRC. As the battery voltage falls, the power output falls a bit too. The -71 was powerful so you'd use short pulses of power with it, continuously drawing to try and keep it in a good flavor zone. The SR-74 and later posts have a spring that pushes into the bottom of the rod and the parts of that post must fit together. It's not as solid of a connection which is why its rated for a maximum of 35 watts, and its White rods had higher resistance to deliver less power at 7.4V:
The reason the SR-74 didn't have as much power is due to it using the highest resistance (~2.3 ohm) rod. Again, this matters only on a Persei, and if you were using a 510-601 bottom adapter with a sufficiently capable box mod it could produce the exact same power as any other Hercules or rod. The next generation -74x dropped the resistance 0.2 ohms to give a small bump in power. With either the -74 or -74x you would use longer button pulses than the -71 to achieve the same vapor; or the same technique would produce a lot less vapor (but why would you want to use it that way). With a box mod its much much much easier to set the power level you want and get the vaping experience you want dialed in with the Herc via a combination of power level & pulse technique (or a low enough power level & dialed cool-down tech) that pulsing isn't crucial- let off the button a few seconds before you end your hit, and enjoy slurpin' terps.
I hope this helps! I better get back to packing up this box...
Thanks for the amazing response and detailed descriptions between the differences in Hercules iterations.
Can I ask you, if you know, why the W9Tech site changed the recommended wattage from 40w to the 20-35w it currently recommends? Based on the previously available information suggesting 40w I was trying to find a box mod for that. Should I now look for one for only 35w?
Could you recommend one thing for me? I really want to get into the newest Hercules, but my V4 doesn't seem like it will quite cut it. What box mod is of excellent quality both in build and safety (close to medical grade, etc) that will power the new Hercules cart to its absolute full potential?
Thanks.
The Omicron V4 will not power the Herc. Tried it. I suggest the evic VTC mini for the temp control while using your ACV2 top and plenty of power to run the Hercules in a small and reliable package. I am sure @SamuraiSam will agree seeing he just got a new one of them.
Mike
mikek9
Vapor Enthusiast
Did you do your warranty claim directly through the reseller (puffitup) or did you have to contact W9 first. I have not had any warranty concerns as of yet thankfully and I worn two v4s, one 2100mAh battery and another in the smallest form factor for taking out while on the go or to events with the 900mAh battery. That thing with the KISS Gen 3 dual-Ti coils is so small.
-----------------
Few questions for the community or the experts at W9Tech.
So I bought the 1701 5 pack of titanium doughnuts to try to add them to my current carts/atomizers and was just wondering what kind of results you have been getting. I particularly read that they work well with the KISS gen 3 and even allow you to load up to a 0.3 of oils in there without leakage as you have excess wick available to draw it in until it gets vaped. Anyone try this?
Also, when I dropped the doughnut in I noticed it could not get as hot as quickly as before likely as the titanium doughnut is conducting some of the energy away down the coils. I tried the warranty test within 2 hours and following the instructions I could not even get a warm flow from the coils with the 5 second pulses though, but they were heating up as I could feel the cart being quite warm and I could smell some burn off. The manual says for the doughnut 1701 atomizer/cartridge to use 10 second pulses. Should I be pulsing this baby for 10 seconds or even longer? It looks like it will take quite some time for all that titanium to reach vaping temps. Or do I just have the wrong doughnuts or simply the wrong idea about them?
I was sure I read people getting great results in the KISS Gen3 carts with the 1701 doughnuts added as well as some talk of people using them in their EHD dual coil Ti ceramic and quartz. I specifically remember reading somewhere in here I think about the doughnuts hitting the quartz carts better. They sure sit loosely in there.
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
I do not know where any '40w' suggestion came from. When I helped develop the packaging and instructions and wrote the product description for the 510 Hercules, it was 20-35 watts, always. I suggest in the latest instructions to use lower power, 15-20 watts to melt in oils. Some people enjoy vaping at those lower wattages, too, and there's nothing wrong with that. If you have any links to any information about 40 watts that might help clear up the question, I was told 35 watts was the most power you should put through the spring loaded bottom pin, and that's why that number was put on the box, and in the instructions.
You can use a power supply (and not that any battery and mod will be "medical quality" nor do they need to be) of any power rating - 40 wattts, 75, hell, a 200 watt li-po DNA mod might suit your fancy. So long as you don't set it higher than 35 watts you should be fine, there are hundreds or thousands of e-cig box mods out there that will power the Hercules just fine. I have used an eVic Mini in the past and it served me well for a long time with the AC V2 & Hercules, and now I use an eVic VTwo Mini thanks to @slozukimc. It seems to be an identical device to the prior model but comes with newer firmware pre-loaded. Joytech's customizable TCR value makes it my go-to device for vaping oils with the AC V2's Gr2 Ti coils. It's VERY durable and its menu and fire buttons are super clicky and durable. They'll last for years all the way up until you lose the dang thing while moving
mikek9
Vapor Enthusiast
I do not know where any '40w' suggestion came from. When I helped develop the packaging and instructions and wrote the product description for the 510 Hercules, it was 20-35 watts, always. I suggest in the latest instructions to use lower power, 15-20 watts to melt in oils. Some people enjoy vaping at those lower wattages, too, and there's nothing wrong with that. If you have any links to any information about 40 watts that might help clear up the question, I was told 35 watts was the most power you should put through the spring loaded bottom pin, and that's why that number was put on the box, and in the instructions.
You can use a power supply (and not that any battery and mod will be "medical quality" nor do they need to be) of any power rating - 40 wattts, 75, hell, a 200 watt li-po DNA mod might suit your fancy. So long as you don't set it higher than 35 watts you should be fine, there are hundreds or thousands of e-cig box mods out there that will power the Hercules just fine. I have used an eVic Mini in the past and it served me well for a long time with the AC V2 & Hercules, and now I use an eVic VTwo Mini thanks to @slozukimc. It seems to be an identical device to the prior model but comes with newer firmware pre-loaded. Joytech's customizable TCR value makes it my go-to device for vaping oils with the AC V2's Gr2 Ti coils. It's VERY durable and its menu and fire buttons are super clicky and durable. They'll last for years all the way up until you lose the dang thing while moving
any ideas about what I was asking about in my post just above your last response about the compatibility of the 1701 coils with different carts? Thank you so much for clearing the wattages up.
*About the 40w, I honestly wish I could show you, but I swear I seem to remember reading it off your site, but I would 100% believe you guys over my memory which isn't always the most reliable unfortunately. So I may have read, or maybe in discussion with tech support through email about how to get use out of the new 510mod Hercules and they might have recommend a box mod that can handle 40w and maybe that's where I got it stuck in my head. What makes more sense, is they would suggest a 40w mod because I don't think 35w exists or is readily available and 30 wouldn't allow be to get the full potential. So maybe that's what it was, they recommended a 40w box mod as it would be able to be set to the recommended max of 35, whereas a 30w mod would be insufficient for the higher power use.
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
I'm glad I've been able to provide good support for my former employer. I guess since there's no one else here to help I'll keep on filling in for the current support staff (its ok I get dozens of PM's a month here & on reddit from people needing assistance that cant get answers & info from W9 Tech)
To my knowledge there is no 'titanium 5 pack' for the 1701. The 1701 I am familiar with uses a (white) ceramic heating donut with a (black) porous ceramic wick on top.
This is the wick:
It's intended to be installed inside the 1701 like so:
I like to use the 1701 wicks inside the 1701 heater. If I want to load more into any other cartridge or heating element, I just load more into that heating element. Placing a loose wick into a big cartridge that wasn't designed to hold that wick never did anything positive for me personally, since when the oils heat up, the wick can move. The 1701 wick sits flat on the 1701's heating donut which transfers heat to it effectively so it can feed oil effectively. Coil heaters where the wick just sits on top won't hold the wick in place nor have the same heat transfer to the wick. Other vaporists may have different experiences, I'm just sharing my own personal opinion.
OK lets take a step back here. Is the "warranty test" you're asking about the procedure for testing brand new, unloaded cartridges? Are you testing a brand new 1701? If so, remove the dry donut wick so you that you can look at the top of the white ceramic heater in a dark room and pulse for 10 seconds at 10 watts. Let off the power as soon as you see a faint glow. Your 1701 is confirmed to be working and I suggest loading your first oils on the underside of the wick and sandwiching them between the heater and wick. After your first rip or two, load oils directly on top of the ceramic wick. They'll melt down through the wick into the heater as you use the 1701. There is absolutely no need for the entire black ceramic wick to reach vaping temps, in fact if it did that would defeat the purpose of using it as a wick. Only the heating element needs to reach vaping temperature to produce vapor, the wick's purpose is to feed oils into that heating element.
If you are testing any other brand new coil than follow the pulsing directions for that heater, not the 1701. If you loaded oils, the "warranty test" no longer applies, since with oils loaded the wire must vaporize the oils its in contact with before it can reach a higher temperature, the "warranty test" doesn't apply once oils have been loaded into the cartridge, or when an extra wick is sitting on top of the coils- there's more material to heat, so the visual temp indicator on the wire will not respond as quickly. personally, I dont want my wires to EVER get close to red hot if there's oil loaded.
mikek9
Vapor Enthusiast
I'm glad I've been able to provide good support for my former employer. I guess since there's no one else here to help I'll keep on filling in for the current support staff (its ok I get dozens of PM's a month here & on reddit from people needing assistance that cant get answers & info from W9 Tech)
To my knowledge there is no 'titanium 5 pack' for the 1701. The 1701 I am familiar with uses a (white) ceramic heating donut with a (black) porous ceramic wick on top.
This is the wick:
It's intended to be installed inside the 1701 like so:
I like to use the 1701 wicks inside the 1701 heater. If I want to load more into any other cartridge or heating element, I just load more into that heating element. Placing a loose wick into a big cartridge that wasn't designed to hold that wick never did anything positive for me personally, since when the oils heat up, the wick can move. The 1701 wick sits flat on the 1701's heating donut which transfers heat to it effectively so it can feed oil effectively. Coil heaters where the wick just sits on top won't hold the wick in place nor have the same heat transfer to the wick. Other vaporists may have different experiences, I'm just sharing my own personal opinion.
OK lets take a step back here. Is the "warranty test" you're asking about the procedure for testing brand new, unloaded cartridges? Are you testing a brand new 1701? If so, remove the dry donut wick so you that you can look at the top of the white ceramic heater in a dark room and pulse for 10 seconds at 10 watts. Let off the power as soon as you see a faint glow. Your 1701 is confirmed to be working and I suggest loading your first oils on the underside of the wick and sandwiching them between the heater and wick. After your first rip or two, load oils directly on top of the ceramic wick. They'll melt down through the wick into the heater as you use the 1701. There is absolutely no need for the entire black ceramic wick to reach vaping temps, in fact if it did that would defeat the purpose of using it as a wick. Only the heating element needs to reach vaping temperature to produce vapor, the wick's purpose is to feed oils into that heating element.
If you are testing any other brand new coil than follow the pulsing directions for that heater, not the 1701. If you loaded oils, the "warranty test" no longer applies, since with oils loaded the wire must vaporize the oils its in contact with before it can reach a higher temperature, the "warranty test" doesn't apply once oils have been loaded into the cartridge, or when an extra wick is sitting on top of the coils- there's more material to heat, so the visual temp indicator on the wire will not respond as quickly. personally, I dont want my wires to EVER get close to red hot if there's oil loaded.
Thanks for the awesome response and you are are correct that the doughnut 5 pack I ordered was the black porous ceramic that is a part for the 1701 style cart.
About the warranty testing, I was talking about having 24 hours to report problem coils and you are supposed to test them in a dark room. I didn't load any likes yet so it was still valid. Though, I didn't just test the coils alone first, I dropped in the doughnut first. If I didn't have he wick in there it would have likely had a slight glow, my theory why it wasn't glowing with the wick loaded was that I believe the extra wick on too helped to draw some of the heat energy being generated away from the coils alone. Which you mentioned something similar. I just wanted to get that answer to confirm my suspicions. I did not get even the slightest glow up to 5 seconds pulses in low power. But it got quite warm around the coil and I could smell burnoff so I know it wasn't dead and was likely just working with a greater mass heat. I just assumed the black ceramic dougnut coil dropped on top must have something to do with it. So, can you confirm that is likely the Case?
I know you said it is of no use for you, but have you tried it? That's the important question. You are definitely right that the dougnut not being made for KISS or AC carts will allow it to move around slightly. But really once you out a glob of oils and place it in the centre when melting it down it sticks and stays in place better than you suggest. Also if you are holding the pen straight it doesn't seem to move when using it as you suggest. Your theory is logical, but I think it actuality once he wick is loaded with material and you are applying power, only the closest the the coils oils will melt down and get vaporized, but I believe what runs down after the power is off and solidifies quickly it sort of re-adheres to the wicks. Sort of how you keep drawing Air to help prevent clogging as it solidifies or even semi-solidifies the oils so they are no longer runny.
Additionally, once you use a coils a few times the who thing gets kind junky and that in itself would hold the wick in place which I am noticing after my first load. So it should only get better the more it is used. I draw this in comparison to a steel screen in a bowl and how it doesn't even stay in place until it's used a bunch of places in an already used bowl with some resign in there to provide adhesion.
Anyway, last night I decided to load it with a 0.11 and see how she does. Well I was so impressed. I got one huge monster hit from it in my first try and was done for the night. I placed it with a glass dab tool right over the coils and dropped my small be sized ball and sort of pushed it in the middle of the doughnut hole and started firing it in quick pulses to melt it in. I was so impressed by how absorbent they were. I'm going to post pics but it just seemed to get sucked up like a sponger. Then the hit? As I said it was fantastic And very flavourful. I am curious how long this will preserve the flavour of my bubble gum x jack herer shatter.
I was wondering if you had heard of others doing this but it seems you haven't. I also read of people using it in the AC EHD coils.
I feel like you should give it a test if you haven't already. From what I remember reading, but can't remember where, is that you can load an easy 0.3g with this black ceramic doughnut and KISS gen 3 cart. I believe it because it was the most absorbent wick I have ever seen and there was room for at least another 0.1 or more once properly absorbed.
Here's a few pics of the losing procedure with the Omicron v4 900mAh battery with a KISS Gen3 Ti dual coil Cartridge with a 1701 black ceramic doughnut wick placed on top.
Zoom in to see the awesome wicking abilities of the doughnuts.
SamuraiSam
Extraction Technician
Very nice! You are not alone, indeed I have heard heard of others using extra FC-2000 wick like you are. And, I did try it myself, after learning of it from the creator of all this stuff, G. He suggested it in either this, or the Persei thread some time ago. He's a fan of the extra capacity of the wick when used on top and loaded as an extra reservoir.
I haven't spoken to him in a while, but it looks like he might have worked to further this concept and incorporate as much black wick as possible with the newest Sirius and Canopus coils.
I haven't spoken to him in a while, but it looks like he might have worked to further this concept and incorporate as much black wick as possible with the newest Sirius and Canopus coils.
Omicron v5 batteries are now available to be purchased with Kiss AC v2
The batteries include 5 different watt settings and a 12 second timer on them.
6 watts, 9 watts, 13 watts 16 watts 19 watts.
You can now use most of the prefilled carts at the lowest setting of 6 watts and the 9 watts. Depending on which cart you have, may not work with all carts but it should work with most.
As always we will begin rolling out the v5 batteries in our warranty program soon. No one left behind.
The batteries include 5 different watt settings and a 12 second timer on them.
6 watts, 9 watts, 13 watts 16 watts 19 watts.
You can now use most of the prefilled carts at the lowest setting of 6 watts and the 9 watts. Depending on which cart you have, may not work with all carts but it should work with most.
As always we will begin rolling out the v5 batteries in our warranty program soon. No one left behind.
StormyPinkness
Rhymenocerous ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
Just want to say I'm loving the Canopus and Sirius coils. I ran one at 19w which seemed to high and another at 13 which tasted better and still gave off enough vapor for me. I got some of the new ehd dual coils, but I haven't tried them yet. My wax right now tastes kind of bad so I'm using my crappier stuff that doesn't give me as much flavor. I'm getting more tonight though and I'm looking forward to trying them out some more. One thing I love is no splatter so far, it's still early though.