OK, I'm back from lunch. I wasn't able to find the CC bill easily, I'll look again later, thanks very much to those who checked theirs and found the charges correct despite the paperwork. I won't sweat it for now then. That I'm sure can be easily straightened out.
My top and caps fit fine, all is black so the theory that it's the chrome plated ones seems to hold.
The new top does seem to fix the voltage drop issue. I measure about .4 Volt drop driving 2.4 Ohm carts (3.77 Volt battery gives 3.33 out, 4.21 in is 3.82 out) basically what the V1 and old V2 did, however switching to 1.5 Ohms shows the improvement others are reporting (3.14 and 3.65 out respectively), this is basically what you get from the TV Ultra supply which has no electronics. Again, the 'lost power' issue seems to be corrected.
I can't tell you anything about 7.4 Volts as I too got a defective 14250 cell (Ticket started....). I used my WF-188 charger since it can be turned down to 300 mA charge rate rather than using the factory charger at 700 mA. Unfortunately this means the adapters are harder to use, but I'd rather do that I guess.
There's also no (or very little) capacitor to 'keep alive' the unit during brief drops in power like the former unit has, this leads to extra 'start up flashes' from bumps or 'holidays' in the contacts as you screw and unscrew stuff. This defaults to off so there doesn't seem to be any danger of accidentally turning it on setting it down (although you can sometimes turn it off that way it seems. It can be done in other handling, I turned it off without knowing while taking voltage readings....suddenly everything was zero and the light was off. I must have hit the button. Right now for myself at least, extra care is called for IMO, I could goof this up.
Electrically it seems to bring the 1.5s back to life again. A/B tests between the new top and the TV Ultra or one of my VV tops come out a push for production (which makes sense since their voltages now agree), so I guess we wait for the availability update on the 'non regulated, momentary' heads to make the call. This guy is a clear improvement, and may well be close enough for many?
Oh, yes, one other observation, you can also use the new (longer) end cap with the long tube for another 3.7 Volt system
if you use 14500 batteries instead. Lucky for me I have a fair number of them, that's what I'm running right now in fact. For now, keeping the new top on the short tube should help prevent brain fade from causing an accident. For now, the short one is very different.....and also kinda neat. Makes the cart seem longer now.
Now you know as much as me.
Best wishes with yours, guys that haven't got one might be missing a bet....subject IMO to this on/off thing and the parts fit issues of course. If the momentary tops are not long in coming that too may become a problem of the past.
Make sure the threads are clean. Maybe use a drop of oil as suggested, but I personally wouldn't want to add resistance, the threads are used to complete the circuit
Good thought, but IMO not an issue. The 'point contact forces' in threads can be huge, liquids like oils or greases are generally 'wiped away' in the process and you come down to metal on metal contact. The current levels in play actually help this happen, "dry" (non powered) and more heavily loaded contacts are much more vulnerable to this sort of problem. The special greases sold for this purpose are actually insulators as well, they don't conduct, take your ohm meter to the jar of the stuff and see.
I still have a question about ohms and carts, though. With the regulated top, the 1.5 ohm carts produced the biggest clouds. With the HVD, what would be the equivalent and what would be the benefit of having a higher ohm cart as opposed to lower ohm one?
It doesn't matter, no matter what conditions, lower resistance carts will draw more current and therefore produce more power than higher ones. You need to change conditions (like voltage) at the same time for that not to happen.
Let's look at a couple of numbers. Say you're happy with 1.5 Ohm carts with the old V2. That's 2.98 Volts delivered for 6.0 Watts developed. Put that same cart on the new V2 and you get 3.65 (from a fresh 4.2 Volt battery, a typical 3.7 Volts still gives 3.14 still a significant improvement) for almost ten Watts (9.9). For contrast, the 2.4 under those conditions gives 3.82 Volts out (3.33 for lower input above) for 6.1 Watts. 3.33 Volts (mid charge) still delivers 4.6 Watts a much closer match? You've no other choices.
Put another way, with a fresh battery charge the new top with a 2.4 Ohm cart outperforms the 1.5 on the old one by a tiny bit. This makes using the 1.5 an whole other thing again. It's basically a nearly 70% boost in power (six to ten Watts). That will slow up as the battery discharges of course, but it's still much improved.
HTH?
OF
then create a ticket
The v2 top on the hvd short tube works fine
