OLD MATE (formerly Medgrind)
- Thread starter Timps27
- Start date
Razzle_N_Dazzle
Well-Known Member
From Ben as of December 26th:
"The new laser is ordered and on the way. Not much is going to happen while we’re in holidays unfortunately."
That was almost a week ago so things may have moved along since then. Either way I'm sure once he gets it set up he will send them out quickly.
The Aroma 3 weighs about a pound with 1/2 of that being the top and I've seen people asking for an XL model and a 4 piece. 4 piece grinders don't make any sense to me in the first place but some people like them for some reason. If he went with a design like HerbRipper did for the catcher that might be OK. They just use a screen that hangs between the grind and chamber so it doesn't add height or weight. I shudder at thought of the weight of a stainless steel XL or the price of the titanium.
I wonder how much more the titanium would be over the current size... if it's cut from the same block size I dunno if we're paying for the price of the block or for the finished titanium piece with regards to material. It'll wear down the custom tools with more cutting so that would probably be factored into the price but I'm not sure it'll be crazy compared to the cost of the current titanium version offered.
AndyO
Well-Known Member
Given the "tube" or "cylinder" in the bottom piece of the OMD, I imagine it'd be pretty easy to slide on an after-market kief screen if someone developed one?
Although I guess you'd have to figure out a way to fix it in place so you can still turn the grinder upside down to empty it.
Herb Ripper doesn't have a centre post so they just use a basket that hangs in the bottom and you lift the whole thing out. Not sure what would work best for the OMD. Well it doesn't really matter to me because I don't know why you would take the good part out to use later instead of just using it as is.
Razzle_N_Dazzle
Well-Known Member
The wait is tough 
I got a new vape coming in on Monday and have stashed away some new bud I've been wanting to try out. It's a shame the old mate won't be a part of the new vape christening
I got a new vape coming in on Monday and have stashed away some new bud I've been wanting to try out. It's a shame the old mate won't be a part of the new vape christening
Gaminginvader
Smoke hater
I've got a sweet full ceramic bearing sitting on my desk waiting, hoping I'll be able to get in on the tempest drop and maybe I'll have both my new toys next weekThe wait is tough
Singularity Walker
Well-Known Member
Nice my second naked Aroma-3 arrived. Twin stripped spinners.
Edit: wow, magnet is strong in the second one. Stronger than the first one I got before the holidays. To the point I had to use tools to pry the top apart TWICE already it was sticking so hard. I'm glad my first was not like this. Even the top from the first has gotten stuck on the second. Setting this aside, getting frustrated with it now. The problem is most definitely the middle segment or the second one as the new A3 top works fine on my first, meanwhile the top from my first also has problems on the second's middle piece. Argh. For now just put a ceramic bearing on the second one's top so I could use both the original and the new A3. Just wish I could use the original bearing or any magnetic bearing (the ceramic opens and closes fine but neither the my first A3 top nor the second one will easily remove from the second A3 middle unless using ceramic).
Edit: wow, magnet is strong in the second one. Stronger than the first one I got before the holidays. To the point I had to use tools to pry the top apart TWICE already it was sticking so hard. I'm glad my first was not like this. Even the top from the first has gotten stuck on the second. Setting this aside, getting frustrated with it now. The problem is most definitely the middle segment or the second one as the new A3 top works fine on my first, meanwhile the top from my first also has problems on the second's middle piece. Argh. For now just put a ceramic bearing on the second one's top so I could use both the original and the new A3. Just wish I could use the original bearing or any magnetic bearing (the ceramic opens and closes fine but neither the my first A3 top nor the second one will easily remove from the second A3 middle unless using ceramic).
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Eek! Sorry mate
I am not sure what's gone wrong here because the magnets haven't changed. It could be the post diameter on my part is out of tolerance and is tight on the bearing race.
If you were down with it, you could heat the very top of the post make the magnet weaker. If you didn't want to do this, i am happy to exchange the middle piece and i can work out what went wrong. You should never have to pry the grinder open ever. I am sorry you had this experience.
-------
I hope everyone had a great Xmas and break!
Update on my laser. The new parts did not fix the issue. I am now waiting on more parts to see if this fixes the problem. (third time's the charm right?)
My new laser engraver is due at the end of January. For anyone interested its a Trotec Speedmarker 700 Fibre.
I reached out to Trotec in desperation and they have very kindly offered to engrave my parts using their showroom floor demo laser so i can start shipping again. I pickup the first lot of engraved parts tomorrow!
Unfortunately the custom engraved orders need to wait around 1 or so weeks for me to fix my broken laser.
2024 has kicked my butt already!
Sorry to everyone waiting on me, Please trust i am working as hard as i can to get every issue ironed out and smooth sailing.
Cheers,
Ben
Gaminginvader
Smoke hater
Singularity Walker
Well-Known Member
Woo!Eek! Sorry mate
I am not sure what's gone wrong here because the magnets haven't changed. It could be the post diameter on my part is out of tolerance and is tight on the bearing race.
I've got it working well now. I was using the Dremel to polish out the scratch I put in the top of the post and got to really looking into it.
I tried few things to get rid of the scratches I put in, and to help make things work (some sanding, buffing, polishing, and even cutoff wheel work.
I think the last thing I tried (softening the bottom edge of the post wings) with the cutoff wheel helped the most.
Anyway, here is a pick of them both side by side, and the post. I'm happy now, can barely tell from the outside I did anything and I can use it with stock bearing again and open without straining.
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Dear mates what about a full ceramic bearing without cage, save up to 1200 degrees celcius and dry, no lube fat or anything.
The bearing completely is from Si3N4 silicon nitride ceramic, without cage just balls from the same material.
link to (german) ebay: https://www.ebay.de/itm/305019147441
The bearing completely is from Si3N4 silicon nitride ceramic, without cage just balls from the same material.
link to (german) ebay: https://www.ebay.de/itm/305019147441
Cheebsy
Microbe minion
vapviking
Old & In the Way
Appreciate this!
So do you know if we have a good option for a bearing that can be iso soaked? (Is that a Peek bearing? It's been a while for me since reading up on this)
For one that can negate the magnetic attraction in the lid? (ditto on Peek?)
I've been real close to ordering a bearing puller from Ben, maybe not now...
.brew
Well-Known Member
I seem to have missed the earlier discussions about the concern over ISO soaking the bearing.
Is there any particular reason people don't want to ISO soak the bearing that comes with the A3? You can grease them safely with NSF H1 food grade grease.
Cheebsy
Microbe minion
@vapviking you're welcome mate!
I use the PEEK one @LesPlenty linked earlier in the thread, the races are PEEK and the balls are ceramic I think. No lube needed so it's fine to ISO soak, and also helps with the magnet if you don't want it to attract the lid.
@.brew yeah you got it, people don't want to wash out the lubrication and leave a dry bearing.
I use the PEEK one @LesPlenty linked earlier in the thread, the races are PEEK and the balls are ceramic I think. No lube needed so it's fine to ISO soak, and also helps with the magnet if you don't want it to attract the lid.
@.brew yeah you got it, people don't want to wash out the lubrication and leave a dry bearing.
vapviking
Old & In the Way
My understanding is that the installed bearing is a sealed bearing, but alcohol can seep in there and break down the lubricant.
Do you know how to lubricate these bearings? I think popping it out with the proper tool (prior to cleaning the grinder) is probably the easier/cleaner way to go?
Do you know how to lubricate these bearings? I think popping it out with the proper tool (prior to cleaning the grinder) is probably the easier/cleaner way to go?
.brew
Well-Known Member
Yes, used to do it all the time for skateboards.
Here's a video from a skater:
Since they aren't getting dirty like a skateboard bearing does, you could also just soak them in ISO and then soak/pack grease into the bearing without removing the seal.
If you want to get really into cleaning the balls inside you can buy shielded bearings that have plastic rings that are meant to be popped off. Probably a few bucks at a skate shop. The "608" in the SKF Explorer 608-2RSL is the size, which is a common skateboard bearing size. SKF is a huge bearing company with a lot of history--you'll find SFK bearings at your local skate shop. You can probably use any lube since it's not making any contact with anything but NSF H1 food grade grease will mitigate contamination concerns.
vapviking
Old & In the Way
If I were a skateboarder I might consider this, doing it in a batch with other bearings. But realistically, maybe I just treat myself to a new bearing once every few years?
I did clean the grinder very well yesterday, I left bearing in and for the top section soaked only the cutters portion, so in about 1/4" deep iso. 30 minute soak then a brushing. The outside of the bearing got wet with iso but not flooded.
I will at some point go with a PEEK bearing, thanks @Cheebsy. I'm ready to be done with the magnetic aspect of the top section, and a lube-free bearing.
.brew
Well-Known Member
I linked the video to show you what it looks like inside and so you can see even "sealed" bearings can be taken apart, cleaned, and greased again. I don't think you'll ever have to break down the bearing that extensively. Skateboard bearings need to be because of dirt and grime getting into them but in this application the main concern is incidentally rinsing the grease out. We're not particularly worried about cleaning the bearing on the OM.
When you spin the bearing you'll hear the difference between when it's well-lubricated and when it needs to be greased again. When it doesn't have enough grease inside you'll hear a rattly sound, like a whirrrr. When it's properly greased it won't make any sound when spinning.
Instead of buying a new bearing, just smash some food grade grease into it with your thumbs/palms of your hands (like you're making a hamburger patty with the bearing) or you could get fancy and put a vacuum on the other side (with like a shop vac) and pull the grease through. If you do decide to buy one every few years keep your old one and eventually you'll have a batch to clean
To me the whole issue seems overblown or people trying to over-optimized. A PEEK bearing isn't necessary and comes with it's own issues--primarily the concern over the much harder ceramic damaging the SS shaft. Presumably we all got to a stainless steel grinder due to a relatively remote concern about Al dust so it doesn't make sense to me to ignore ceramic dust from a PEEK bearing. SFK is using inert stainless bearings and any incidental dusting will be caught by the grease.
Cheebsy
Microbe minion
Are we getting ceramic dust from our PEEK bearings?
The issue wasn't ceramic dust, but steel dust created from the ceramic bearing rubbing against the steel center pole. PEEK bearings avoid this since the PEEK race essentially acts as a (softer-than-steel) barrier between the ceramic balls and the steel of the grinder.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Yeah this was my plan for cleaning, to try to just be careful with it, as I don't have the removing tool, not sure I would want to mess with that anyway... Goal still to get a second one eventually, and also install ceramic with peek bearing at that time, to make cleaning even easier and limit the magnet's extra pull... I mean might have to figure out how to do that part myself at that time though lol Personally I really don't want to mess with any kind of grease and rubbing it all over etc. I don't like doing that with anything honestly
Huhu
Just ordered this nice premo bearing 608 hybrid:
It is SS, even the cage but the balls are Si3N4.
Maybe we should ask Ben what he is thinking about these.
Just ordered this nice premo bearing 608 hybrid:
608 Hybrid Kugellager Edelstahl Keramik 8x22x7 mm offen ungefettet ungeschmiert | eBay
Rillenkugellager / Industrielager. Maße (Innen x Außen x Breite):8x22x7 mm (Innen x Außen x Breite). SS 608 2RS mit Si3N4 Keramik-Präzisionskugeln (G10) - Ringe und Käfig aus Edelstahl (rostfrei) = SS Stainless Steel / INOX / NIRO.
www.ebay.com
It is SS, even the cage but the balls are Si3N4.
Maybe we should ask Ben what he is thinking about these.