Old Head Freight Train

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
this one works too.
They look great!
I just received a glass-cutting disc from Aliexpress that I am going to use to slice a simple 'V' into the side of a coffee mug for a coil rest but I like the idea of the safety cage that stays with the head instead. Just need to find a version that is closer to me...as in DHGate or Aliexpress!
 
LesPlenty,

Slartibartfast67

Well-Known Member
It sounds like this might be the issue, I bumped my FT with my arm and knocked it over while it was at 650 and have a scar now.
I will add that I find the coil heater isn't very hot (not sure how hot it's supposed to be though). I was able to touch it for half a second to a second without burns or pain. Not going to hug it though.
This is all assuming you are using the bowl that came with the device. I think your coil must be damaged and not heating up as much as it should. When mine is on 650 you definitely can't touch it even for half a second. Also, it sounds like you are not getting a lot of vapor. My device on 650 yields large clouds of vapor on every piece of glass I have tried it on within 2 or 3 seconds with basically any pull. Assuming there are no air leaks in your system, I can't see what else it could be but your head not getting up to the correct temperature.

I would contact Old Head or wherever you got it and request a replacement coil. If you have a wattmeter you could test it like fubar suggests. Also one of those infrared surface thermometers would tell you the head/coil temp. I think your head must not be coming up to the correct temperature. I got a minor burn from barely grazing mine for a split second. I can't imagine touching it for half a second when it's set to 650.
 
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Timps27

Feel like I’m winnin’ when I’m losin’ again
I would also recommend not tamping. My experience with ball vapes has been that a coarse cut loose load produces the best results. YMMV of course.

One of the guys from Prrl has a write up on here that seems to validate my anecdotal experience, I’ll link it if I can find it. Here it is.
 
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fubar

Ancient and opiniated inhaler
Prrl has a write up on here
tl;dr I tried to explain why the additional conduction opportunities between solid lumps that are introduced by light packing works so much better for me in my various vaporisers here if anyone cares. Like when making espresso, the extraction profile can be controlled by varying the grind and the tamp for any given temperature/machine/bean....

Putting aside the complexities of how different molecules vaporise once heat arrives to warm up a lump of bud, IMHO what little that article states about heat transfer is grossly oversimplified as if it was written by someone with a limited understanding of the physics.

Fundamentally, it does not account for the very obvious physical fact that hot air cannot flow through any of those little solid fragments of weed or as pointed out below, the good stuff in the trichome heads sitting in your bowl. Air has to flow around anything solid. By definition, the physical mechanism we call convection can only transfer heat to a surface directly exposed to the hot air moving past. Convection only happens at exposed surfaces. Conduction is the physical mechanism by which some of that heat is then transferred toward the cooler interior of the solid pieces. Conduction is the only known physical mechanism for heat to get inside there from the heated surface, to make the material warm enough for the various interesting molecules to break loose and form vapour.

The point is that this remains true no matter what combination of radiation, conduction and/or convection transferred it from the device's heat source to the solid fragments and trichome heads in the bowl. Wherever fragments touch each other, heat can flow from the hotter to the cooler one by conduction. More contact, more efficient conduction so more of the mass in a lightly packed load will reach a higher temperature from any given amount of heat that is transferred from the heat source by any mechanism during a toke, compared to the same load unpacked. Of course, just like espresso, an over-fine grind and/or packing too tight by tamping will choke anything trying to move through the material. It's the balance between them that controls the extraction profile.

It was the swirling but poorly extracted weed in my very first Arizer EQ cyclone bowl tests that made me realise why it didn't work as well as elbow/DDave mod packed loads on that heat source.

With the extremely effective stream of hot air injected by a Freight Train, the need for additional conduction from touching particles is in my experience, less pronounced. It hits hard if you just hold a nug in the way! For me, it hits a little more to my liking with light packing. Everyone has different requirements of course, but I think I understand how the extraction profile is affected for any given heat source and inhalation pattern - earlier and more abundant content of the heavier, less volatile terpenes, that may be stored deeper than the bract surfaces perhaps?
 
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Timps27

Feel like I’m winnin’ when I’m losin’ again
I think I probably end up near the same, the draw lightly compresses the material into what is probably a similar state as lightly packed. I think people are more likely to over pack than they are to under pack, maybe we could more universally say tight packing is not ideal for ‘convection’ style vapes?
 

Grass Yes

Yes
Staff member
By definition, the physical process of convection can only transfer heat to a surface touched by the hot air. Conduction is the physical mechanism by which heat is then transferred into the cooler interior of the solid pieces.
This ignores completely where the trichomes that hold the cannabinoids are located. You don't need heat to reach the middle of a piece of ground flower, the surface is where the action is. More exposed surface, the more hot air that can vaporize the goods.
 
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fubar

Ancient and opiniated inhaler
This ignores completely where the trichomes that hold the cannabinoids are located. You don't need heat to reach the middle of a piece of ground flower, the surface is where the action is. More exposed surface, the more hot air that can vaporize the goods.
Not sure I'm ignoring that fact, since my comments about conduction being the physical mechanism for heat to reach the insides of those solid capitate trichome heads where many of the goodies are stored, remain true. Does your hot air blow right through them somehow? That's the only physical way convection alone could be responsible for vaporising their beloved contents.

That said, the personal and subjective issues are way more complicated than the physics alone can explain - I'm walking a fine line trying to talk about the physical processes of heat transfer because it's the effect that matters, not the physics - I just happen to be interested in the details of the physical heat transfer part of the story.

For example I do not enjoy trichome sift as much as I like vaporised whole flower, probably because the trichome story is only one part of the complicated mix of terpenes - the ensemble of the extraction profile that makes me medicated - but all vapour depends on exactly the same physical heat transfer processes.

If you really believe that trichomes are all that matter, and are always completely surrounded by air flow so conduction can empty them all quickly, then that's your right and I wish you happy vaporising.

It's certainly less obvious to me in the FT than in the EQ/DDave mod or underdog that I've used previously. If I vaporise an unshredded lump of bud until the vapour slows down to a whisp and the bud surfaces are a nice even darkish brown with zero spots of black carbonised char, I know that I'm not done yet. It may be that there are simply no more contents in any trichomes to heat up because they were all completely exposed to the air flow, but if I unload and finger-crush the material, then put it back without packing, it will be far more powdery with a much higher total surface area. That means there will be higher impedance to air flow when the material is packed, but another toke or two will always produce what is for me additional useful vapour now that new surfaces are in contact or have been exposed that were formerly inside the previously uncrushed head of flower. Is that second lot of vapour only coming from non-trichome sources? Maybe. Hard to be sure, but it does not seem that way subjectively to me. More subtle, but it still is noticable for me with the FT.

Of course, your needs are probably different from mine, although AFAIK we share the same physics.
 
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Haze Mister

Verdant Bloomer
Manufacturer
Looks like it can have more airflow with some more holes under the rubies.
 
Haze Mister,

Pcloudy

Well-Known Member
I am very interested in the FT pro, coming from a Flowerpot B1 I am wondering if it will be a downgrade? Worth the $380 price tag?
Well it's on sale right now so I'd say it's the time to jump on it because at 300ish it's a pretty screaming deals. Can't speak of it's performance compared to a b1 unfortunately. I imagine pretty close with a slightly tighter draw.

Edit. I didn't even realize the pro kit was a different head with more airflow. I can't imagine there being much difference between the two but I'm no expert. You could just buy a setup with no pid if the pin layouts are the same as the b1 and you already have a pid
 

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
Good that the coil guard is preinstalled on pro kit
Especially using with smaller water pieces

Recently bought small rig, face only 4 inches from hot coil
(Had removed guard for better Hangar fit)
Felt like a mini space heater

heat-shield.jpg


Put guard back on -- good reduction in radiation
Could comfortably use small piece
So, for me, the coil guard isn't just for burn prevention
 

gmo67

Well-Known Member
Nows the time with the 20 percent off. Im tempted to sell my standard so I can buy the pro kit.
i just bought a TM2 along with batteries and all the rest lol,im in the uk not sure if ill get the discount here anywayi,ill get it eventually :lol:
 
gmo67,

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
Will Fright Train work with CH Controller?
Yes

Like that spelling - Fright Train:rockon:
choochoo-fright-train.jpg


5 pin XLR quick disconnect
I use Auber 300 with FT, same controller that CH has offered for a few years

this CH blog post discusses their pin layout change:
 
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RedZep

Well-Known Member
Does the taper of the Pro Engine allow it to sit inside the Sticky Brick wooden bowls? As opposed to rest over the top of it like the B-Zero.
 
RedZep,

Pcloudy

Well-Known Member
Does the taper of the Pro Engine allow it to sit inside the Sticky Brick wooden bowls? As opposed to rest over the top of it like the B-Zero.
I believe it sits inside the bowl like the standard glass one thats included but I have not used the sticky brick labs one yet.
 
Pcloudy,
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