next generation e-nails?
- Thread starter bassplayer
- Start date
Hello all
I read a part le this topic and i wanted to know if the auber 20mm coil would fit well with NV FP. I d prefer buy auber coil and nail instead of NV.
Auber parts come from china too?
I find auber enail offres little more functions for an equivally price.
And lots of ppl on this forum seems to recommend them. What do you think? I Will use only with FP for the moment.
And do you know if it is long to cet them in Europe?
Thanks
I read a part le this topic and i wanted to know if the auber 20mm coil would fit well with NV FP. I d prefer buy auber coil and nail instead of NV.
Auber parts come from china too?
I find auber enail offres little more functions for an equivally price.
And lots of ppl on this forum seems to recommend them. What do you think? I Will use only with FP for the moment.
And do you know if it is long to cet them in Europe?
Thanks
Baron23
Well-Known Member
I want to tread carefully here lest I be inaccurately accused of trying to torpedo NV's PID/coil sales.
The NV PID/coil is a perfectly fine Chinese made controller/coil. I believe it is a white labeled Vapecode product.
Now, its my understanding (belief maybe?) that pretty much all K-type thermocouple barrel coils are made in China although somebody above thought that one company made coils in the USA. I can't confirm that either way. But the point is that there is nothing wrong with Chines made coils and I don't think you will find it easy to find anything else.
Also, pretty much all PID controllers are either made in China or, and I believe this is the case of Auberins, or are assembled out of Chinese made parts and sub-assemblies. Again, for me, this China origin is not an issue and I believe that even some of the very expensive controllers made in the USA by some enail companies (Errlectric and Hex-nail, for example) are made with some parts and sub-assemblies of Chinese origin.
The ONLY reason I hesitate to recommend the NV controller/coil is the issue of mechanical interface compatibility. Its just a fact, whether some want to acknowledge it or not, that the vast majority of easily sourced coils are going to use the "D-nail defacto interface" of a five pin, full size XLR with the pin-outs I delineated in above in this thread.
I run an Auber RDK-200 and a G9 Chinese enail for my e-nails (with no-name Chinese hot runner coils, D-nail coils, and Auber coils) and I don't know WTF people are talking about regarding fitment. People have very different views of proper coil fitment and I have long subscribed to the @mutten840 approach which is that they must be spread top to bottom to evenly cover the object being heated and they must be very tight in order to minimize the delta between coil set point and actual nail/heater temp. I have not found a coil that did not need some slight attitude adjustment given my standard for tightness, yours may be different....maybe the NV coil on their FP is an exception. I do not know as I already had two PID's and a few coils laying around.
So what is fitment and why you shouldn't sweat about it too much:
Well, for starters the only benefit I see coil fitment adjustment is what I said above...minimizing delta between set point and the object being heated (in this case a FP heater head). While I like to minimize this just because it suits my anal retentive personality, its not really an issue and most people don't have a K-type TC thermometer and have no idea what the delta is but they are using their devices successfully. They just dial up a set point that gives them the end results that they want and go from there. The delta isn't so big that you will need to drive your coil at 900 F out of necessity in order to vape your flower/'trates. Also, I believe that the NV coil cover also helps in this regard.
I see where somebody in the FP thread indicated that they liked their NV coils best because they had good fitment and that this resulted in a lower drop of temp when they started drawing. I'm not going to argue with anybody on that, but suspect this has much more to do with internal PID settings on their controller than coil fitment.
Secondly, fitting a coil is a piece of cake and I'm one of the least "handy" guys you will meet. Me and tools generally result in broken stuff. But coil fitment...eh? I take a flat head screw driver of some good width and insert it between the coils and give a little twist, then to the next coil, and the next...etc. For tightness, pair of pliers...I use some silicone pliers tips I got at Sears but you can just use a piece of rag or towel to protect you coil from the pliers jaws. Again, if the coil is looser than I like, I start at one end (TC end) and just give a little twist in the right direction, move up, etc until I like it.
I have not yet come across a coil that needed to be more open, but if I did and it would not fit over whatever it was intended for, then I would do the same thing but in the opposite direction.
No big deal.
I love my FP, particularly my OG Shower Head. But I'm not posting stuff like this in that thread as there are some real true defenders of the faith on guard over there. Don't get me wrong, most of those guys/gals are folks I highly respect and like a lot, but overall that thread is not as open to dialog as I would wish (how's that for keeping it friendly! LOL).
I think you will be fine either way. One thing I do like about Auberins is that they are located in GA and that's where your tech support and RMA support will come from. I did have a coil fail...TC most likely...while under warranty and the CS for its replacement was perfect and I could understand the person I was talking to. You can also get tech support on the phone to talk about PID settings if you feel like getting that technical...I do NOT mess with PID settings (see above about breaking stuff...LOL).
Hope this is somewhat helpful.
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Hello baron23
Thanks for your response and your other posts in general in this board or other (i read at least 5 or 6 times your Fp review on another forum)
As im total noob regarding enail your response helped me à lot.
Ps you said auberins were located in GA, where/what is GA?
Thanks for your response and your other posts in general in this board or other (i read at least 5 or 6 times your Fp review on another forum)
As im total noob regarding enail your response helped me à lot.
Ps you said auberins were located in GA, where/what is GA?
crashboy420
Member
I finally got to properly use my Sapphire Insert for the SiC Halo by D-Nail.
Much to my initial dismay, due to a shipping error it took a couple weeks after the E-Nail arrived for the carb cap to show up so I haven't been able to use the sapphire insert until today. Customer Service was super helpful though and even sent me the carb cap + forked dabber tool for free.
While it was annoying to fidget around with initially - I had to use a hook tool to take it off the hot nail - the sapphire insert seems like a great purchase. So far I find the best way to use it is just to leave it on the nail the entire time it's in use and put the dab on the insert while inhaling through the bong with carb cap on, as while even at 700F - which I think is a lower temperature for the sapphire insert - there was still conduction vaporization occurring.
What I immediately noticed compared to dabbing it out of the dish was that the wax stayed much tastier after the first inhale and for its entirety.
While the air is a bit harsher due to the higher temperature required, the trade-off for flavor is worth it depending on preference.
It seems like a great purchase for a concentrate user that likes to take small dabs as the advertised Wix material allows the concentrate to spread around the insert for maximum surface area, which is what I purchased it for. The only negatives I've found for the sapphire insert are the hotter temperature, fidgeting with the insert, and in my opinion you have to inhale for longer than a dab off the dish to prevent wasting vapor.
On a side note, everyone else was 100% correct, the D-Nail SiC Halo does not function nearly well enough without the official universal carb cap from them.
Hogni
Honi soit qui mal y pense
just_the_flu
they say im crazy but i have a good time
...whats a good controler/pid that uses the d-nail xlr? (Pin Out: AC Load [1], AC Neutral [2], TC+ [3], TC - [4], Ground [5] )
...im open to other pin layouts, its just all the coils i have are the above...
...im open to other pin layouts, its just all the coils i have are the above...
Baron23
Well-Known Member
just_the_flu
they say im crazy but i have a good time
...thanks, i already have a rdk-200... was eye balling the 300's but seeing what other good options..
Shooby
4ShOObY3 - IG
I love my mininails and is getting a third mininail micro on 420. The temp on the PID is calibrated to be close to the temp on your nail.
I have 14f to 19F deltas on my 20mm Liger from pid temp to dish. They are tiny units you can hide, uses very lil power. Very durable as well. It uses mini XLR coils connectors however.
Baron23
Well-Known Member
I do have a 300 and like it a lot. Can't say I use all of the additional bells and whistles over the 200, but I am very happy.
Most all Chinese PID controllers will be full size five pin XLR with the pin outs you defined.
Some exceptions: HighFive has different pin outs, at least on version of VapeCode controller uses a screw on connector that will not fit the "D-nail type" coils you have. This is the one white labeled by NewVape, I believe.
Also, watch out for Gimodo as some of their controllers have four pin XLRs. Need to look closely at their stuff.
Me...I would just get another Auber...they work perfectly and I have had to use CS once on a coil and it was great to communicate with someone I could understand and who works in Alpharetta, GA, USA.
If you do get one off of DHGate or the like, I would look very hard for one that uses an Omron E5CC PID assembly. If you look closely at the pics at the face of the PID itself, it should say that on the outside. I believe it is the -QX version that has output for driving an external solid state relay and you definitely want that versus a mechanical relay internal to the PID.
Is there some functional shortfall you are looking to fill or just want another controller?
Cheers
PoopMachine
Well-Known Member
You cant beat Auber for the money. I think I was one of the first people here to buy a 200 and it was awesome.
Im considering a KubeOne but I just dont know if it will get me anything over the Hexnail.
Im considering a KubeOne but I just dont know if it will get me anything over the Hexnail.
just_the_flu
they say im crazy but i have a good time
...just seeing what other options are out there I may have overseen.
EDIT: ...i just picked up the rdk-300 for my second to my rdk-200... selling my hn-02... thanks @Baron23 & @PoopMachine for your help.
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MuushuPork
Well-Known Member
@Baron23 or anybody who can maybe help- need some help guys- I got my rdk 300 and 16 mm 100 W compatible coil from dhgate. I treble checked with Auber to make sure the coil is compatible.
However the coil is not heating up, the controller simply doesn't register that it is even connected. I set the controller correctly for the 100w coil. I can't see that there is anything else that I can do? I am hoping the Chinese sent me the right coil because there were two pin configurations to choose from and I specifically requested the one Auber told me I need.
I wonder if the Chinese gave me type A instead of type B and if this was the case then would I be experiencing this where the coil just does not receive any power or recognition by the controller that the coil is connected?
I have already stretched the coils apart with players to work with the Elev8r so I'm hoping it does not need to be sent back because I'm not sure about getting it back to original shape.
Any ideas would be highly appreciated and big thanks in advance.
Edit its okay guys no need to reply. Auber are advising me, the coil is either faulty, has the wrong pin layout, or it was suggested to me that :
"Well maybe you have shorted the coil when reshaping it. There is a nichrome wire insidepowder which keeps it from touching the metal".
Thanks anyway wishing you all a nice weekend.
However the coil is not heating up, the controller simply doesn't register that it is even connected. I set the controller correctly for the 100w coil. I can't see that there is anything else that I can do? I am hoping the Chinese sent me the right coil because there were two pin configurations to choose from and I specifically requested the one Auber told me I need.
I wonder if the Chinese gave me type A instead of type B and if this was the case then would I be experiencing this where the coil just does not receive any power or recognition by the controller that the coil is connected?
I have already stretched the coils apart with players to work with the Elev8r so I'm hoping it does not need to be sent back because I'm not sure about getting it back to original shape.
Any ideas would be highly appreciated and big thanks in advance.
Edit its okay guys no need to reply. Auber are advising me, the coil is either faulty, has the wrong pin layout, or it was suggested to me that :
"Well maybe you have shorted the coil when reshaping it. There is a nichrome wire insidepowder which keeps it from touching the metal".
Thanks anyway wishing you all a nice weekend.
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Baron23
Well-Known Member
There is no way that I can tell you if the pin outs are wrong from here. I suppose depending on which pins are changed (like putting hot power on ground pin) you might damage the controller but it sounds like everything is working just the coil doesn't heat up.@Baron23 or anybody who can maybe help- need some help guys- I got my rdk 300 and 16 mm 100 W compatible coil from dhgate. I treble checked with Auber to make sure the coil is compatible.
However the coil is not heating up, the controller simply doesn't register that it is even connected. I set the controller correctly for the 100w coil. I can't see that there is anything else that I can do? I am hoping the Chinese sent me the right coil because there were two pin configurations to choose from and I specifically requested the one Auber told me I need.
I wonder if the Chinese gave me type A instead of type B and if this was the case then would I be experiencing this where the coil just does not receive any power or recognition by the controller that the coil is connected?
I have already stretched the coils apart with players to work with the Elev8r so I'm hoping it does not need to be sent back because I'm not sure about getting it back to original shape.
Any ideas would be highly appreciated and big thanks in advance.
Does the Auberin show a temp at all from the coil...room temp? If so, pins are probably good and the issue is just a bad coil which happens.
I had an Auberins coil go bad not too long ago...thermocouple just failed and it wouldn't heat up.
Do you have another coil or can borrow one to try with your controller.
But I'm betting its the coil.
Thanks very much for your thoughts which are very settling to me right now actually- Im so disappointed in myself in case I damaged the coil stretching it. I should have tested it first really.
But it may have been faulty to start with? We won't know now, that would actually make me feel better in some ways, but a right fool for not checking it before deformity.
There is no temp showing for the coil at all. Just not registering. I dont have another coil, EXCEPT Baron... Newvape's one for my mum's FP, and we all know how useful that is to me right now don't we?!
That would have been really handy though to use the 20 mm FP coil as a check. I am pretty sure it is the coil, but wish I knew if it was
A) faulty to begin with, but otherwise compatible.
B) wrong pin layouts. They say they will send type A unless you specify otherwise. I asked for type B after consulting Auber. I made it very clear but who knows?
C) I damaged the coil myself. I don't know anything about coils and didn't think it was very prone to damage this way, just plain ignorance and naivity. I did scratch it a bit at the bottom to get it going.
So I need to get somebody to check it with a mutlimeter. If they sent the wrong pin type it may show as working. Likely the coil is dead though. I intend to email the Chinese and ask if they think there there is a chance they sent type A. Who knows, I may be lucky and they send a replacement with no return, especially if a multimeter confirms it is dead.
That is my best hope but at worst I lose $30. My main woe is the dissapointment of it after using torches daily for some months, itching for the Herbo (and then Elev8r mod).
But the only thing REALLY bugging me, looking ahead- getting another coil and not damaging it again. Im so apprehensive about it now even more.
Thanks Baron. I needed consoling, unusual for me, I normally try to do that for everyone else. I was sure any thoughts you had would only help to ground me, which they have.
Enjoy your weekend and see you around bro.
Thanks dude really appreciate the reassurance, and I hope you are right because that means I might be able to safely reshape another one.
I did wonder just now if it was the final twisting torque I applied to widen the overall ID. The strain would have been right up the coil. Just conjecture though.
Yeah Im hoping they trust it is dead and send new one. As long as I CAN get it rigged up eventually, even for another $30, all well that....
Or get my Herbo Ti sooner, currently cleaning and prepping sales first so I can't quite see me buying it before mid/late April. Gosh, what a hard life eh, isn't it tough?
I didn't expect the coil for another week at least, so I started thinking- Nice! No rush for the Digi-Ti now with this coil. Hence, situational disappointment as much as anything.
Having to resist the FP, always luring me in!
Cheers for assurance have a good night out if you going. I loved my UNI days, so it's so cool to see others doing likewise now (amidst studies of course, and I know you do your homework first.
)
Kanna_Kult
Well-Known Member
So I have an auber RDK 300 (2 years old)with a dnail extended life flat coil (6-8 months old) and it worked fine till today when it stopped heating up. It won't get past 77 degree, I've tried unplugging and cleaning all ports nothing is working how can I fix this
alittledabwilldoya'
Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
Sounds like your coil is kaput.
Do you have another to see if your controller is still functional?
Baron23
Well-Known Member
Got you bookmarked!
@mutten840 is the man....honest, knowledgeable, trustworthy. I would do business with him any day of the week.