New guy in town, have a Vape Pen Voltage Question.

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BeastMode335i

New Member
What's up everybody, found you guys' on Google and after lurking through a few threads I figured I'd go ahead and join so I could learn quite a bit.. Been a smoker for about 19 years but just recently got into vaping THC oil.. I had a few disposables that I picked up from Harborside but now I went and purchased some Ganjagold Honey Oil, and my buddy gave me an Ego C Twist 1300mah battery, but I have a question that he can't help me with and I'm hoping someone here can..

On the bottom of the battery it has an adjustable knob, from 3.2v to 4.8v and I'm not sure which setting I should have it on for this Honey Oil from Ganjagold..?? I figured the lowest setting so it don't burn it, but I've read others say they have to heat theirs up before it even draws and I just want to be educated on what I'm doing and how to use it..

If anyone cares to fill me in, I'd appreciate it!

I've called Ganjagold directly but nobody got back to me yet, and I'm not in Cali at the moment so I can't just swing by Harborside..

Thanks!
 
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dilvish

in hypno-vision
welcome!
since we don't know the resistance of the atomizer, or the wire that was used to build it, i think it would be wisest to start at the lowest voltage, like you have, and Very Carefully bump it up until you start to notice flavor degredation, then turn it down a little bit.
good luck!
 

BeastMode335i

New Member
welcome!
since we don't know the resistance of the atomizer, or the wire that was used to build it, i think it would be wisest to start at the lowest voltage, like you have, and Very Carefully bump it up until you start to notice flavor degredation, then turn it down a little bit.
good luck!

Thank you for your feedback!

Would I be able to find out that info by contacting the company and asking them? I have the box at home it may even be stated on there I assume..??
 
BeastMode335i,

dilvish

in hypno-vision
Thank you for your feedback!

Would I be able to find out that info by contacting the company and asking them? I have the box at home it may even be stated on there I assume..??
no worries man. the package your atomizer came in may very possibly tell you what the resistance is, and maybe also the voltage or wattage at which to use it. if it doesn't, maybe try googling the name of the atomizer and see if you get a good answer. not sure about asking the company, it's probably worth a try though.
 

BeastMode335i

New Member
Well i just got home and looked at the box, and what do you know lol.. I guess I should have paid closer attention to the box, especially the part that says 510 thread and 3.3v or 6watts, lol.. So I imagine this means, by having the battery set to 3.3v is where I'll achieve maximum flavor and desirability..

no worries man. the package your atomizer came in may very possibly tell you what the resistance is, and maybe also the voltage or wattage at which to use it. if it doesn't, maybe try googling the name of the atomizer and see if you get a good answer. not sure about asking the company, it's probably worth a try though.

Yeah I found it brother, I should have looked there first but just got it last night and been at work all day lol.. Thanks
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
l.. I guess I should have paid closer attention to the box, especially the part that says 510 thread and 3.3v or 6watts, lol.. So I imagine this means, by having the battery set to 3.3v is where I'll achieve maximum flavor and desirability..

Perhaps, it does vary from strain/batch to batch sometimes and it's still a pretty subjective call, what I might call best might not agree with you?

Ego type 'batteries' (technically they are not, they're power supplies that have a single cell (a battery is two or more working together like grouped cannons in the military (called 'Batteries'?)) typically 'cut off' at 3.3 Volts, many provide higher voltages earlier on, some limit this to 3.6 Volts or so some do not and give four Volts or a bit more when freshly charged. The carts you buy have to deal with that too.

You should also know the Twist is also power limited. Low resistance carts (like the popular 1.5 Ohm ones) can cause the unit to go into 'power limit' a bit under 4 Volts IIRC, while some 'mods' could easily power a 1.5 Ohm load to dozens of Watts, not so the Twist. The knob turns, it just doesn't make it hotter past a point.

Best advice is to start at 3.3 or so, no '510 battery' is going to provide less. Then slowly dial it up a tenth or two and a time and see what you get? Expect increased production with little else by way of change at first, then it'll start becoming hotter and more hash as you advance. Pick a spot you like, kick back and enjoy the fruits of your efforts.

Regards,

OF
 

BeastMode335i

New Member
Perhaps, it does vary from strain/batch to batch sometimes and it's still a pretty subjective call, what I might call best might not agree with you?

Ego type 'batteries' (technically they are not, they're power supplies that have a single cell (a battery is two or more working together like grouped cannons in the military (called 'Batteries'?)) typically 'cut off' at 3.3 Volts, many provide higher voltages earlier on, some limit this to 3.6 Volts or so some do not and give four Volts or a bit more when freshly charged. The carts you buy have to deal with that too.

You should also know the Twist is also power limited. Low resistance carts (like the popular 1.5 Ohm ones) can cause the unit to go into 'power limit' a bit under 4 Volts IIRC, while some 'mods' could easily power a 1.5 Ohm load to dozens of Watts, not so the Twist. The knob turns, it just doesn't make it hotter past a point.

Best advice is to start at 3.3 or so, no '510 battery' is going to provide less. Then slowly dial it up a tenth or two and a time and see what you get? Expect increased production with little else by way of change at first, then it'll start becoming hotter and more hash as you advance. Pick a spot you like, kick back and enjoy the fruits of your efforts.

Regards,

OF

Thanks for the bit of info man I appreciate it..!

I actually am looking online now for a decent 510 battery that is in that 3.3-3.7 range but it seems that many are rated at 4.8 which I believe to be too much, right..? I know you said it's different from strand to strand but I wasn't sure if the little differences were actually very big.. Pulling a draw at 3.3v compared to pulling one at 4.8v, would probably be a big difference I'd imagine..

I suppose the hardest thing I'm having a trouble with is finding out the actual voltage when it's not listed.. For instance, I saw on eBay a few eGo-T batteries which arent variable voltage, but one site said they are 4.8v and another said they are 3.6v, so yeah confused me a bit lol.. Guess I have lots to learn still..!!

Thanks again!

PS - Just for clarifying, the part that confuses me is on batteries where it says Output - 3.3-4.2 but it's not a variable battery.. Does this mean on full charge it's 4.2 and when it's dying it's 3.3..???
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
PS - Just for clarifying, the part that confuses me is on batteries where it says Output - 3.3-4.2 but it's not a variable battery.. Does this mean on full charge it's 4.2 and when it's dying it's 3.3..???

You're welcome.

Yes, that's exactly what they mean, no regulation. They'd rather you not notice you have no real control (except when your recharge and how much).

I wouldn't worry too much about too much power, just don't dial it up that high? My car can go way faster than I want to go......

OF
 

Dramma Lamma

Looks like a job for!
3.6 - 3.9 For whatever reason, really don't ask me IDFK. This is the range in which the overwhelming majority of pre-filled oil cartridges work the best the longest for.

This is NOT my personal opinion, its me asking the thousands of customers who come into my shop weekly and use these cartridges EXCLUSIVELY for all their medication needs what they like the most.

This obviously can vary depending on the coil resistance, your draw speed, ambient temperature and a lot of other factors it's just a rule of thumb to start out on I tell new customers.

If they still seem dumbfounded I tell them to just just leave it on 3.7 all the time.
 
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Dramma Lamma,

SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
Ego type 'batteries' (technically they are not, they're power supplies that have a single cell (a battery is two or more working together like grouped cannons in the military (called 'Batteries'?)) typically 'cut off' at 3.3 Volts, many provide higher voltages earlier on, some limit this to 3.6 Volts or so some do not and give four Volts or a bit more when freshly charged.
There's absolutely nothing incorrect or wrong about referring to a battery as a battery and the nitpicking could have been omitted from this post to "be nice" The first listed dictionary definition should suffice for our discussion over the second, less common usage, since everyone knows exactly what we're talking about.

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SamuraiSam,
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OF

Well-Known Member
There's absolutely nothing incorrect or wrong about referring to a battery as a battery and the nitpicking could have been omitted from this post to "be nice" The first listed dictionary definition should suffice for our discussion over the second, less common usage, since everyone knows exactly what we're talking about.

I believe you are incorrect, for the reason I said:

Misusing the term, even commonly done, doesn't make it right. Cells (plural) make up batteries, as defined here?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery

An individual one is a cell:
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/types_of_battery_cells

When combined in series or parallel they become batteries:
http://www.splung.com/content/sid/3/page/batteries

It's not important, but is a detail I believe I'm correct on. And am willing to 'back that up'.

A car has a 12 Volt battery (six cells in series) a normal flashlight uses two D cells to make up it's battery.

If you have any further personal criticism of my posting WRT to following the rules please report me rather than throwing stones? I neither want not think I need such advice/lectures from you. TIA

OF
 

SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
As you linked,
"An electric battery is a device consisting of one or more electrochemical cells"

One or more, no plurality required. A single cell is indeed a battery. A single lithium button cell is a battery. I've never seen anything else on any button battery I've purchased.
 
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StickyShisha2

Well-Known Member
On the bottom of the battery it has an adjustable knob, from 3.2v to 4.8v

there is a plethora of box mods to run your cartridge, especially now that you know how much power it wants.

my first and only is the TC40w from eleaf iStick. I bought it together with my DivineTribe oil head. it hasn't let me down
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
As you linked,
"An electric battery is a device consisting of one or more electrochemical cells"

One or more, no plurality required. A single cell is indeed a battery. A single lithium button cell is a battery. I've never seen anything else on any button battery I've purchased.

Exactly so, made of cells? The cell is the 'quantum'.

No, it's not a battery until it's connected to something, until then it's 'just' a cell. The idea comes from the cells (rooms) medieval Monks lived in as I recall. Two or more connected are a battery, they are then part of something bigger working as a part of it. One cannon is a field gun, several are a battery if working together. To hold a cell in you hand it has to be plural or part of a bigger assembly. Four loose are 'four loose cells'.

I understand that a lot of folks misuse the term, doesn't make it right? And for sure it has little to do with making vapor. But there is a difference in terms. Sticking to the facts, I think I have it right. 'All batteries have cells, but not all cells are batteries'? Just like 'not all Democrats are horse thieves, but all horse thieves are Democrats'.

A button cell is a button cell. It says so on it? It's not a watch battery until it's installed. A fine point, in a world that largely doesn't care, but IMO an important one. It makes it fit other areas of science, an important thing. You did follow the 'flashlight uses two D cells to make it's battery'? Did you disagree with that?

OF
 
OF,

SamuraiSam

Extraction Technician
No, it's not a battery until it's connected to something, until then it's 'just' a cell.
I believe you are incorrect, for the reason I said:

bat·ter·y
ˈbadərē/
noun
  1. a container consisting of one or more cells, in which chemical energy is converted into electricity and used as a source of power.
I'm not sure at all what your "quantum" refers to, nor do I wish to. I have no interest in artillery batteries nor any secondary or tertiary usages of this word, nor any rooms where monks lived in medieval times. I'm addressing your "correction" of @BeastMode335i 's usage of the word "battery in context.

The goal of language is to establish a means by which people may easily communicate. To facilitate language, we standardize "dictionaries" and "encyclopedias" with definitions of words so we can all agree on their meaning. Your overtly narrow definition of this word is in disagreement with more than "a lot of folks", even the source you linked to refute me.

Wikipedia said:
Historically the term "battery" specifically referred to a device composed of multiple cells, however the usage has evolved to additionally include devices composed of a single cell.

Though your etymological origin story is factually correct, it's again (just like the monks in medieval times) irrelevant; the word today means what the dictionary (and encyclopedias) says it means.

Feel free to use the term battery sparingly if you wish, the rest of us could do without incorrect "corrections". @BeastMode335i is a newcomer to FC, and there's nothing nice about being nitpick-corrected by a "Well-Known Member" as you're beginning to explore a new, large, intimidating community.
 
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