Naturally Decarbed Concentrates - Best Yet

[Grow Goddess]

Something I would like to add. I did do another experiment.

I have some 3-4 year old RSO. Some of the best I have ever made. It is sealed in a vial which is also sealed in a jar. The RSO was made with 99% iso. After it having been double sealed for years, I did open it and try some a few days ago. There was no degrading whatsoever. If anything, it seemed to be more potent. My point here is that the stuff has an incredible shelf life when stored properly.

This part is difficult for me to explain, but I will do my best. When I discovered ND Sap I was fully accustomed to RSO. I had been taking it everyday for years. When I sampled the ND Sap, I preferred it and switched over to it. It has been about a year now of only taking ND Sap. After sampling the RSO again, the difference was even more noticeable, a night and day difference between the two concentrates. I guess I could possibly see someone preferring the RSO. The RSO offered me a much different buzz, especially now that I am not used to it. It gave me a lot of anxiety though. It seemed like an extreme sativa type buzz to me. It was not soothe and relaxing for me like the ND Sap is. It almost felt like the RSO was synthetic. I can't really explain it. Two doses and I put it away, hurried up and made an additional batch of ND Sap so I won't run out!! I have been working with the same strains for many years so this has nothing to do with differences in strains. I place all the differences on the heat decarbing and loss of the additional medicinal properties and it being oxidized. The ND Sap is just so much more comfortable for me. It is more potent, but also more mellow. The RSO seemed more intense and less comfortable. That is just my experience, others may have a different experience or preference.

 

[OldOyler]

I have some 3-4 year old RSO. Some of the best I have ever made. It is sealed in a vial which is also sealed in a jar. The RSO was made with 99% iso. After it having been double sealed for years, I did open it and try some a few days ago. There was no degrading whatsoever. If anything, it seemed to be more potent. My point here is that the stuff has an incredible shelf life when stored properly.

@Grow Goddess ,

I also have found the oil to have an incredible shelf life.

And I have already been finding the process of ND to be bearing itself out - I have some unfinished (I *had* originally taken it to low 200s in a 210F hot water bath when I cooked off the Everclear, but that's what I had that was "ready" to be pulled for my own current supply) oil that I just tried and it was definitely more potent than when it was finished in early-February this year, with no decarb added. I sealed it back up!

I tend to go the other way on my desired effects somewhat - I liked to be "jazzed" without being jittery, and the only fix I had for that in the past was to decarb it longer (after CO2 bubble production dropped off). But I could be looking at it with an unknown hanging out there - I start with stuff that has been fairly cured (7-10 hanging colas upside down, then 2-3 weeks jar curing) so it is possible I simply worked out some of the jittery stuff up front. But figured I would mention it!

And I am also the kind of guy that strangely doesn't really like medibles - if I don't use the RSO sublingually (or let it go down my throat too soon) I don't like the resulting effects. I have a buddy that thinks I am crazy for not loving infused medibles. (So I am looking at canna-cap creation to get it down, since my pancreas gremlins are apaprently being bad)

From your other post, I am going to try the KX (?). I never have had any foam or anything from using EC, but I am getting ready to get a vacuum-assist for filtration so I don't have to use heat, so I think it's a good time to switch over - just makes good sense to do it anyway. (Wonder what causes that foam, though).

(And an FYI, closing in on the time to run the "big" ND experiment - about 6 weeks until, uh...the cannabis stork drops by!)

:-)

Peace and excitement for ND!

 

[Grow Goddess]

@OldOyler-

This is why I like these sites and being able to speak with others. Helps us all to learn more. I have never tried using grain alcohol when applying heat. I am guessing you have never had the water issue because you were using heat, which enables the water to evaporate more evenly with the alcohol.

The first time I saw foam is when I was using 99% iso to make QWISO hash. Just a very small amount of that white stuff. With the 99% iso, it was only present on the sides of the pyrex dish, it did not pool up. It was never an issue until I started making QWET with 190 EC. That became a problem with no heat and just a fan aiding the evaporation. The 200 proof KleenXtract seems to have solved that problem. At least for this first run.

No heat, you would be making a wise choice using the 200 proof. It is more economical getting it by the 5 gallon rather than only 1.

Like you, I am not a fan of medibles and I prefer to allow the oil to dissolve under my tongue. Keeping the oil runny with EC, I don't recommend using the 200 proof to keep it runny for consumption, it just dissolves instantly in my mouth. It does not leave nearly as much stickiness like RSO does.

I can understand why somebody would prefer a more uppity type of buzz. When it comes to the oil, applying heat you are losing out on essential terpenes and possibly more. Night and day difference between terpenes and no terpenes medicinally speaking.

Actually, I see three types of oil, I like all three, but prefer two of them. Standard RSO which has an intense uppity effect (might not be the correct way to describe it). This other method is not as medicinal, but is very enjoyable. The oil made with 99% iso and winterized with 190 proof EC. Very intense visual buzz, kind of spiritual. I can't say up or down it is kind of neutral. Then there is the method I have been discussing, ND Sap. All three are great but I am preferring the no heat method whether it is winterized or not.

I can't wait to hear your results. Most people are not patient enough at this point to try it out.

Thanks for all of the updates and feedback!

 

[OldOyler]

@Grow Goddess ,

Well, here are the reasons that *I* am embarking on it and maybe that will help someone else.

1. No risk IMO. If I (or anyone) got to xx days in the natural decarb process and didn't like it, the cannabis oil can simply be finished with a 250F heat bath.

2. I have a chronic medical problem. So this means that cannabis and I will be friends until...right around death probably. I think this is the biggest reason that someone could have "patience", as in that is who I think will be drawn to this initially - patients with chronic problems (and their caregivers, of course).

3. It has been initially tested. Many of my own tests are brand new, and I have ruined some oil along the way. (Usually over-decarbed, so I mix it back in at a low concentration with my regular supply when needed). You already did the first test, GG so that puts me way ahead of where I can end up with an untested theory of mine or something.

4. The ND Sap process uses currently accepted and tested methods in its initial creation. There is no need for me to switch from ethanol to ISO, or butane, or something completely new (I can certainly *choose* to, just saying it isn't necessary). I just "stop" before decarb, and don't use any heat to evap the ethanol any more - those are my modifications, and I had already made the latter anyway. Takes a whopping 18-24 hours on a shelf in a dark room to air evap (although I am sure you will want to nail down the specifics, just saying generally here).

5. Lack of scientific research for cannabis yet. This is not a "knock it" reason, I bring it up because I *get* to be in the research of something I am passionate about since the "field" is still wide open. By participating in your discovery and subsequent enumeration of its various pieces, I get to "be" somewhere that a fully-researched field wouldn't allow - cool as can be!

6. ND Sap complements my other research. I am studying heat, ethanol, and pressure so that I can understand it better (I think exothermic, endothermic, and chemical reactions are occurring that are changing the oil that are currently being attributed to heat alone). The ND Sap process frames my current (initial, still-in-flux of course) research interests and related questions - heat at the extremes (none or a crapload) are reported to create incredible finished products - how could I not jump on board immediately?

Not an exhaustive list, but I hope that's enough to encourage anyone who is considering trying the ND Sap process (rough physical times as of late, which in turn makes me choppy in mental acuity).

I also think that this (ND Sap process) will attract folks who are dealing with long-term issues at first, and *especially* caregivers since they are making oil over the long haul for many different patients and conditions and so may have access to a larger starting supply than the average person. They may be in the best starting position to simply run the process on some "extra" oil (or however it works for caregivers, forgive my ignorance) and see what they get.

:-)

And so, on that last vein of thinking, I think the detailed enumeration of the process will be what will "seal the deal". I am research-happy now myself, but that's because I finally feel "adept" at creating oil, with the hope of mastery one decade soon. I, like yourself probably as well, started with "Give me the steps, one at a time, or it will freak me out". If that makes sense. You've always been good at a balance of text and supporting/clarifying pictures - I have not mastered that yet.

Peace GG!

 

[Enchantre]

So, I found myself with almost 10 grams of second-run nug grower's blend stiff honey/shattery oil. It's in a Jyarz chico, and I thought I'd toss that in the cupboard, mostly to build a bit of a stockpile of medicine, but also, do you think that bho would naturally decarb? it's pretty stretchy at room temp.

thoughts?

 

[Grow Goddess]

@Enchantre I am just guessing here, but I would assume that the BHO will naturally decarb. I did have someone tell me that their BHO seemed to, but not fully. I believe it will fully decarb if it is in a more liquid state. It needs to be able to release the CO2, which may only be possible in a more liquid state.

This time I am keeping my concentrate in a full liquid state. I have been shaking the vials a couple times per week and opening them to release the pressure build up from the formation of CO2. Not sure if that is good or bad. I am seeing the decarbing taking place. However, the buds were already a couple of months old when I did the extraction. After I believe it to be fully decarbed, I will leave the caps off and allow it to evaporate the remaining solvent. I will follow up with the results.

 

[Snappo]

@Enchantre I am just guessing here, but I would assume that the BHO will naturally decarb. I did have someone tell me that their BHO seemed to, but not fully. I believe it will fully decarb if it is in a more liquid state. It needs to be able to release the CO2, which may only be possible in a more liquid state.

This time I am keeping my concentrate in a full liquid state. I have been shaking the vials a couple times per week and opening them to release the pressure build up from the formation of CO2. Not sure if that is good or bad. I am seeing the decarbing taking place. However, the buds were already a couple of months old when I did the extraction. After I believe it to be fully decarbed, I will leave the caps off and allow it to evaporate the remaining solvent. I will follow up with the results.

Just ground up 1/3 oz of 1 year jar-stored buds. They were dry and crumbly (naturally decarbed?). I ground them to a fine powder in my coffee grinder. Why?!!! Because I want to extract every bit of terpene and chlorophyll content that I can while soaked & shaken every day for at least 4-6 weeks in Everclear 190, and kept in my freezer. Then, I will remove from the freezer environment, strain, and evaporate in open air until I have a very very thin honey oil. From that point on I will keep it stored in a glass jar and dark place for 120 days or more for the added natural decarb to almost complete the process. The final stage of my process will be to do a final open air purge until thickened just a bit more, but still thin enough to dose with a dropper. You may ask: why the 4-6 weeks in the freezer? Well, this worked so POWERFULLY for me when I made my experimental last batch of Green Dragon tincture that I though I'd carry on that part of the tradition to my new ND Honey Oil Tincture. Stay tuned for my report in July or August ...I'm very optimistic about this!

 

[Enchantre]

Just ground up 1/3 oz of 1 year jar-stored buds. They were dry and crumbly (naturally decarbed?). I ground them to a fine powder in my coffee grinder. Why?!!! Because I want to extract every bit of terpene and chlorophyll content that I can while soaked & shaken every day for at least 4-6 weeks in Everclear 190, and kept in my freezer. Then, I will remove from the freezer environment, strain, and evaporate in open air until I have a very very thin honey oil. From that point on I will keep it stored in a glass jar and dark place for 120 days or more for the added natural decarb to almost complete the process. The final stage of my process will be to do a final open air purge until thickened a just bit more, but still thin enough to dose with a dropper. You may ask: why the 4-6 weeks in the freezer? Well, this worked so POWERFULLY for me when I made my Green Dragon tincture that I though I'd carry on that part of the tradition to my new ND Honey Oil Tincture. Stay tuned for my report in July or August ...I'm very optimistic about this!

How much EC are you putting that in, and would having to use 151 EC ruin it?

 

[Snappo]

How much EC are you putting that in, and would having to use 151 EC ruin it?

Finely ground 1/3rd oz herb and about 5 ounces 190 EC in a 1/2 pint Ball mason jar kept in freezer. In the pic below, unfiltered, you can already see the extreme extraction by the whitish top layer (trichomes & waxes) covering two additional layers below that! I shake the jar like a madman for about 30 seconds several times a day. I just made this batch about an hour ago and look at the extraction/separation already! The first time I used EC 151 for GD tinc the results were good ...but not nearly as good as what I achieved with the 190 EC!!! 1-2 drops only from my last batch sends me into orbit for hours!!!

 

[Grow Goddess]

Just ground up 1/3 oz of 1 year jar-stored buds. They were dry and crumbly (naturally decarbed?). I ground them to a fine powder in my coffee grinder. Why?!!! Because I want to extract every bit of terpene and chlorophyll content that I can while soaked & shaken every day for at least 4-6 weeks in Everclear 190, and kept in my freezer. Then, I will remove from the freezer environment, strain, and evaporate in open air until I have a very very thin honey oil. From that point on I will keep it stored in a glass jar and dark place for 120 days or more for the added natural decarb to almost complete the process. The final stage of my process will be to do a final open air purge until thickened just a bit more, but still thin enough to dose with a dropper. You may ask: why the 4-6 weeks in the freezer? Well, this worked so POWERFULLY for me when I made my experimental last batch of Green Dragon tincture that I though I'd carry on that part of the tradition to my new ND Honey Oil Tincture. Stay tuned for my report in July or August ...I'm very optimistic about this!

You might not need to let it soak that long. My first time making oil I did a 2 week long soak. I did use the RSO method at that time though. It was not anything like a pot buzz with the final product. I don't know what I would label it as, but it was too intense for me. That is what lead me to the quick rinses. I could see somebody preferring it.

Since it is already naturally decarbed (the buds potentially). The oil may be ready when evaporated or it may only take an additionall week or two to finish. Don't know.

With that amount of time soaking I don't think it will require the additional 100 day wait for decarb.

I am very interested to hear of your results. Especially since it is regarding a natural decarb.

The stuff looks really good in the jar the way it is.

 

[Snappo]

You might not need to let it soak that long. My first time making oil I did a 2 week long soak. I did use the RSO method at that time though. It was not anything like a pot buzz with the final product. I don't know what I would label it as, but it was too intense for me. That is what lead me to the quick rinses. I could see somebody preferring it.

Since it is already naturally decarbed (the buds potentially). The oil may be ready when evaporated or it may only take an additionall week or two to finish. Don't know.

With that amount of time soaking I don't think it will require the additional 100 day wait for decarb.

I am very interested to hear of your results. Especially since it is regarding a natural decarb.

The stuff looks really good in the jar the way it is.

You may be right...I just don't know. Perhaps my experiments have been a bit too aggressive - the effects thus far have been VERY INTENSE (maybe too intense)...I hadn't really considered that. I would like to have a potent long lasting yet very pleasing & mellowing effect as you've described vs. the intense & somewhat overpowering buzz. The extraction does look pretty good as it is now, so I will take your suggestion and run it through the filtration process this weekend. Then, after evaporated down into a very thin honey oil state, let it naturally decarb some more in a dropper bottle kept in the dark - but will test an initial dose for potency and effect right away, then store the rest and do dose tests every few weeks to monitor how it develops. Since the buds may have already been decarbed (to what extent I don't know), the oil may be as ready as it needs to be now ...or perhaps additional decarbing will take place - either improving more over time, staying the same, or devolving somehow into a lesser product. I welcome your thoughts and suggestions! Experimenting is fun!!!

 

[OldOyler]

@Grow Goddess ,

This ended up being the perfect time to post a question I wanted to ask!

When the um...stork...brings me finished white widow colas, I would *really* like to cut down on the trim work usually needed. I am already aching (and shuddering) at the thought...but nonetheless happy to do it, if you feel it is important.

What I want to do is dry the single branches, trim off any large fan leaves and any fan leaves growing out of the buds. But leave the sugar leaves on - on a side note, with this strain, they are pretty trikey. First time the...stork brought it, I panicked because I thought I had the dreaded white powdery mildew! (The stork knew better, and it was a *beautiful* sight up close. It's why the Vlasic stork wears two jeweler's loupes disguised as glasses!)

I have BONE dry air here (my highest spike was 23% RH), so if I choose to just dry on the branches to keep enough moisture to slow it down they are still going to dry quicker than I would let them if I was going to jar cure. (In that case, maybe 7 days drying on branches, then 2-3 weeks jar curing).

I would like to leave them up for 14 days or so. They will be pretty darn dry, but I don't think horribly so.

Then, I would just trim the nugs off the branches and put them in the EC191 just like that (or possibly KX, I would prefer to stick with EC for the test since I "know" it) with the sug leaves still on them. (If I thought they were still too wet at the bud level at this point, I could just put them in my Milliard drying rack for however long).

I separated the sug leaves last time when making oil (because I manicured and jar cured the buds first) but found little discernible difference to straight flower, except for a smaller yield of course. (Now the rest of the trim that the stork brings me - fan leaves, stems, etc. I now only use for topicals because the chlorophyll transfer was obvious even with fairly decent straining).

Anyhoo, what do you think? Honestly not trying to lazy-out on any necessary steps. But I am "all-in" with ND Sap, and so I absolutely will process the starting material in whatever way seems needed.

Thanks as always, and peace!

 

[Grow Goddess]

You may be right...I just don't know. Perhaps my experiments have been a bit too aggressive - the effects thus far have been VERY INTENSE (maybe too intense)...I hadn't really considered that. I would like to have a potent long lasting yet very pleasing & mellowing effect as you've described vs. the intense & somewhat overpowering buzz. The extraction does look pretty good as it is now, so I will take your suggestion and run it through the filtration process this weekend. Then, after evaporated down into a very thin honey oil state, let it naturally decarb some more in a dropper bottle kept in the dark - but will test an initial dose for potency and effect right away, then store the rest and do dose tests every few weeks to monitor how it develops. Since the buds may have already been decarbed (to what extent I don't know), the oil may be as ready as it needs to be now ...or perhaps additional decarbing will take place - either improving more over time, staying the same, or devolving somehow into a lesser product. I welcome your thoughts and suggestions! Experimenting is fun!!!

Here is what I recommend based upon the experience I have. It may not be for everyone, but have found it to be best for me.

I don't really care for the extreme intense buzz. Like you mentioned, I want something that is nice and mellow but long lasting. I don't have 100% experience yet with the ND Sap oil, but at this point, I have 2 recommendations that I am working with. One is longer lasting and the other is really enjoyable visual effect for a good 24 hours. The non winterized method lasts at least 48 hours if not longer, that is taking it everyday. Just a small maintenance dose. I use fresh premium bud that is very dry. I store the buds in mason jars. With both methods I put the alcohol in the freezer. The more medicinal, full spectrum method, after everything is frozen for a few days, I will use the 200 proof KleenXtract organic ethanol. I pull the jar of buds and alcohol out of the freezer. Pour the alcohol into the jar with buds until the liquid line goes above the half way point then I will put the cover back on and shake the jar. The buds should crumble almost instantly. With the first wash, I will shake for an additional 20 to 30 seconds after the buds completely crumble. I immediately strain it into a bowl, not filter, strain with a wire mesh strainer for the purpose of straining quickly. I will add more alcohol to the jar with the bud material, usually just a little above the bud line. I will just shake it a few times and strain it quickly again. I will repeat that one more time so that would be three rinses (you can get a fourth rinse or long soak, but I recommend to keep that separate from the other to be used in a topical solution or something else). At this point I will have a second bowl of the same size. I usually use stainless steel mixing bowls, but glass would work just fine. I will allow the THC solvent to sit for 10 to 20 minutes, sometimes longer. Then I filter it to the other bowl using a reusable metal mesh coffee filter. Again I let the solution to sit sometimes up to an hour. I call this a type of gravity filtering. You may want to do that a couple more times. After filtered and there is not much sediment left, then I will filter it one last time, you can use a paper filter if you want at this point. I usually don't but sometimes I do. This last filtering goes into the pyrex baking dish. The larger the dish, the more quickly the solvent will evaporate due to the larger surface area. I open a couple of windows in the room and have a fan blow across it to aid in the evaporation. In the winter when the air is more dry in the house I usually don't even use the fan. When it is basically finished evaporating where it is dry in some spots and a little wet in others I will add some more of the 200 proof and use a mini spatula and gently stir it around and make sure I get all of the oil that stuck on the sides. I will then pour that off into either a glass or stainless steel measuring cup. I allow it to evaporate from there. While it is still liquid I will pour it into a vial, but only fill it half way. Then I seal the vial and put it or them into another jar. I am not sure if it is best to weekly crack the vial open after shaking to release the CO2 as it starts to build up or just leave them sealed for the 100 days and maybe shake them, but not open. I am doing a comparison right now with my most recent batch. Then, I plan to let the 200 proof to fully evaporate, after I believe the solution is finished decarbing. I will know it is finished decarbing when the CO2 pressure stops building up. You will be able to tell over time. After it is fully evaporated and is down to the thickness of honey, I will add a bit of 190 or 192 proof grain alcohol to thin it out so I can use a dropper for dosing. I prefer it to be slightly diluted with alcohol so it will quickly absorb rather than have a bunch of sticky stuff in my mouth. At this point I consider the product to be finished.

Now for option 2, I will use 99% isopropyl alcohol for the extraction using the same method as stated above. After it is first purged of the iso I will then dilute it with 190 proof or higher grain alcohol. Put it into a small jar then into the freezer. I will leave that in the freezer for a couple of days. I will then filter with a paper coffee filter and get it into a vial. I like to use a syringe to do this. I will then allow it to do the 100 day decarb, keeping it in a liquid state with the grain alcohol. After it is decarbed, I will allow it to evaporate to the desired thickness.

I consider these to be 2 completely different oils. The first is more medicinal that lasts longer. The second method, by winterizing, it is more of a pure THC oil. It does not last as long. It offers a comfortable visual buzz and is very potent, but not an uncomfortable intensity.

Hope this helps!

I think you are making the right decision. Experimenting in all aspects, as long as the methods are safe, is a great idea to discover what is best for you.

 

[Grow Goddess]

@Grow Goddess ,

This ended up being the perfect time to post a question I wanted to ask!

When the um...stork...brings me finished white widow colas, I would *really* like to cut down on the trim work usually needed. I am already aching (and shuddering) at the thought...but nonetheless happy to do it, if you feel it is important.

What I want to do is dry the single branches, trim off any large fan leaves and any fan leaves growing out of the buds. But leave the sugar leaves on - on a side note, with this strain, they are pretty trikey. First time the...stork brought it, I panicked because I thought I had the dreaded white powdery mildew! (The stork knew better, and it was a *beautiful* sight up close. It's why the Vlasic stork wears two jeweler's loupes disguised as glasses!)

I have BONE dry air here (my highest spike was 23% RH), so if I choose to just dry on the branches to keep enough moisture to slow it down they are still going to dry quicker than I would let them if I was going to jar cure. (In that case, maybe 7 days drying on branches, then 2-3 weeks jar curing).

I would like to leave them up for 14 days or so. They will be pretty darn dry, but I don't think horribly so.

Then, I would just trim the nugs off the branches and put them in the EC191 just like that (or possibly KX, I would prefer to stick with EC for the test since I "know" it) with the sug leaves still on them. (If I thought they were still too wet at the bud level at this point, I could just put them in my Milliard drying rack for however long).

I separated the sug leaves last time when making oil (because I manicured and jar cured the buds first) but found little discernible difference to straight flower, except for a smaller yield of course. (Now the rest of the trim that the stork brings me - fan leaves, stems, etc. I now only use for topicals because the chlorophyll transfer was obvious even with fairly decent straining).

Anyhoo, what do you think? Honestly not trying to lazy-out on any necessary steps. But I am "all-in" with ND Sap, and so I absolutely will process the starting material in whatever way seems needed.

Thanks as always, and peace!

Doing the quick trim job is just fine as long as you are using premium bud.

When it comes to ND Sap, I am willing to bet that you will notice a big difference between the oil made form bud vs the oil made from the trim. There is nothing wrong with leaving some of the sugar trim on the buds, but just sugar shake, I am betting you will notice a difference with ND Sap due to the terpenes. The terpene production in the leaf sugary area is very low, if not none at all. Most of the terpenes are contained in the buds.

read my post above, give it a try it does not require a large amount to do it.

 

[OldOyler]

Doing the quick trim job is just fine as long as you are using premium bud.

When it comes to ND Sap, I am willing to bet that you will notice a big difference between the oil made form bud vs the oil made from the trim. There is nothing wrong with leaving some of the sugar trim on the buds, but just sugar shake, I am betting you will notice a difference with ND Sap due to the terpenes. The terpene production in the leaf sugary area is very low, if not none at all. Most of the terpenes are contained in the buds.

read my post above, give it a try it does not require a large amount to do it.

GG,

Sorry, I meant "bud with sug leaves" oil versus "just bud". (As in, I didn't do a run of just sug leaves or anything).

Well, like I said earlier - I already have 10g oil "in process" that I started - sitting in a dark place in three 5ml syringes (wanted room for any remaining solvent to push on the stopper between burps).

I am running another 8 zips of just ND Sap when the stork delivers, along with my other tests (4 zips each for two other projects, and for "oil in the meantime"). So I think as long as I use the same material (bud with sug leaves) it should give an "even" starting point. (My trim goes into topicals now).

Yeah, it's pretty high-test. Tested out at 24.1%THC (on a side note, also 0.8% CBD) when I had the dried flowers tested (hadn't been jar cured, just 14 day dry).

These white widows get bat-crap crazy trikes on the sug leaves. Obnoxiously so. Trikes cover over 1/2-3/4 of all the sug leaves, so I might do more harm than good by trying to remove it (loss to the trimming process, etc.) since I'm making oil exclusively with the result.

Thanks @Grow Goddess , I can't wait!

Peace everyone!

 

[Grow Goddess]

It really means a lot to me OldOyler to hear of your results. I do not have much feedback from the community and I love to be able to share. I have not been able to share my experiences. So any feedback on experiences from others in the community is very valuable.

 

[OldOyler]

It really means a lot to me OldOyler to hear of your results. I do not have much feedback from the community and I love to be able to share. I have not been able to share my experiences. So any feedback on experiences from others in the community is very valuable.

GG,

Exactly why I am happy to be on board. I offer what I can when I think it's helpful (I yam what I yam and that's all that I yam), and I like I said before I am just *really* excited to be researching ND Sap!!!

I am also in the midst of diddly squat with my free time except for these cannabis projects. YOU, however, also have patients to care for!

So helping describe, enumerate, and test the ND Sap process so that it is as repeatable as any other process currently available for making oil is MY pleasure.



Peace!

 

[Snappo]

ND tincture, hash, honey oil, & RSO - Pictures and process details tomorrow - stay tuned!!!

 

[Snappo]

Sooner than I expected...
Will keep all proceeds seen below in a dark place for 90-120 days, with periodic dose tests -

Taking from my posts above, we continue... the pic below shows the gruel evaporation process - total 6 hours...

Hash/sediment after evaporation... nice and dry and super powdery fine.

End results: 1). ND Hash; 2). tincture 3/4 ounce; 3&4). ND honey oil (with all terpenes, chlorophyll, waxes, etc.); 5). ND thick RSO (approx. 1 gram - front row) -

 

[Neicey76]

Love the experiments my friends. Keep em coming. I never even thought you would want to leave in for so long. I always thought quick n done .... But very very interesting.

Thank u all

 

[Nesta]

A few questions from an interested bystander…

What does RSO stand for? Are they the initials of someone who first tried this process?

Several pages back @215z wrote:

100% ethanol is unsafe to consume because of the heat produced as it reacts with water. I'm serious. You can burn yourself.

Kids are taught to drip EtOH into water in chem lab, and to never drip water onto a vessel full of EtOH.

Nobody responded to this warning. Does everyone believe that the KleenXtract is safe to use?

Thanks for your work, this is exciting stuff!

 

[wootze]

A few questions from an interested bystander…

What does RSO stand for? Are they the initials of someone who first tried this process?

Several pages back @215z wrote:


Nobody responded to this warning. Does everyone believe that the KleenXtract is safe to use?

Thanks for your work, this is exciting stuff!

RSO...Rick Simpson Oil. Go forth and Google.

You don't want to drink KleenXtract. The way it's being used here, It is evaporated off.

 

[Grow Goddess]

RSO...Rick Simpson Oil. Go forth and Google.

You don't want to drink KleenXtract. The way it's being used here, It is evaporated off.

you are right wootze. For me, I am sure you will agree, to keep a concentrate in a liquid state after purging off the KX, I just add a little 192 proof polish vodka or 190 everclear so I can use a dropper for dosing.

You can use the 190 or 192 proof grain alcohol for the extraction, but it can be a pain. However, I don't see a reason to if one is to use the KX with common sense.

You are right Nesta, you don't want to drink the 200 proof, even diluted 50/50. The stuff is safe to use for the extraction. After evaporated, adding a bit of the 190 or 192 proof to keep it in a liquid state so terpenes are not lost, also to help it decarb. I feel perfectly comfortable using KX as long as it has evaporated off before consumption.

It is not so much that it is poisonous, but more the concern of the potency of it. It can be dangerous and it does burn.

The concentrate that still contains KX, which would be minimal, can cause some minor 'chest burning', kind of like heartburn, but worse. How I know this is because I had a little leak out of the storage vial when I opened the cap to release the CO2. It went onto my finger and I licked it off. (I should have allowed it to air dry before licking my finger). My best guess is it was probably 70% KX at the time. After I believe the concentrate has decarbed, then I will allow the remaining KX evaporate off.

 

[Snappo]

you are right wootze. For me, I am sure you will agree, to keep a concentrate in a liquid state after purging off the KX, I just add a little 192 proof polish vodka or 190 everclear so I can use a dropper for dosing.

You can use the 190 or 192 proof grain alcohol for the extraction, but it can be a pain. However, I don't see a reason to if one is to use the KX with common sense.

You are right Nesta, you don't want to drink the 200 proof, even diluted 50/50. The stuff is safe to use for the extraction. After evaporated, adding a bit of the 190 or 192 proof to keep it in a liquid state so terpenes are not lost, also to help it decarb. I feel perfectly comfortable using KX as long as it has evaporated off before consumption.

It is not so much that it is poisonous, but more the concern of the potency of it. It can be dangerous and it does burn.

The concentrate that still contains KX, which would be minimal, can cause some minor 'chest burning', kind of like heartburn, but worse. How I know this is because I had a little leak out of the storage vial when I opened the cap to release the CO2. It went onto my finger and I licked it off. (I should have allowed it to air dry before licking my finger). My best guess is it was probably 70% KX at the time. After I believe the concentrate has decarbed, then I will allow the remaining KX evaporate off.

@Grow Goddess ...does any of my product pictured above resemble anything that you make? Can you identify what I have there? ...because I'm not quite sure... I mean, I've named things, but only for lack of knowledgeable identification. Thanks!

 

[Grow Goddess]

@Grow Goddess ...does any of my product pictured above resemble anything that you make? Can you identify what I have there? ...because I'm not quite sure... I mean, I've named things, but only for lack of knowledgeable identification. Thanks!

Yes and no. Kind of difficult to tell with just a picture.

Different strains and different techniques will have an effect on the appearance. The appearance doesn't matter with the ND Sap. What matters is no heat, essential terpenes, and it being fully naturally decarbed. Of course the most important is the starting material, which I prefer to use buds only.

Keep in mind I have less experience with the organic alcohol than I do with using the 99% iso. The iso did make products that were more pretty, but not necessarily better, and surely not as safe.