Musa 510

[Easywider]

Tc works with my boxmod but not with the cold resistance. I have to increase the cold resistance setting with the box mod from 0.7 ohm to about 0.85-0.9 ohm. Thats not optimal since it is a little bit tricky to adjust it correctly.

Have you guys experienced something similar? With my cold (real) coil resistance the coil seems to stay too cold (with 210°C) but my boxmod setting goes up to 300°C on the display. If I set the resistance too high (1 ohm) the coil heats up very slow. Because of that I prefer wattage mode with my box.

I didn't find the box mod discussion thread @KeroZen
Could you maybe post the link in here?
Thanks in advance!

You should really be increasing your TCR value instead of increasing resistance. If you're using stainless steel coils and SS TRC is 88-95 then you should try 110-120. Since the temp is being calculated at the coils and not at the bowl you will find you need to run a much higher temp at the coils to achieve the desired temp at the bowl increasing TCR will increase overall temp and is a better way. If you increase your resistance you can only go so far off baseline before the resistance/heat calculations are thrown off too much and your mod will error or just force itself out of TC into Wattage mode.

 

[MUSA Vaporizer]

@Easywider thank you! I'm going to test it and will report my results!

@Hippie thanks for the links!

 

[Easywider]

@Easywider thank you! I'm going to test it and will report my results!

@Hippie thanks for the links!

Pleasure is mine! I've learned so much on this forum from helpful knowledgeable members like @Hippie and @KeroZen it's nice to be able to share some of it.

 

[MUSA Vaporizer]

Guys I have a special offer for you:

The next three Musa orders will get a 20% price reduction!
Edit: 2/3 left!

 

[MUSA Vaporizer]

My ijoy captain 18650 works well with TC mode now. I just had to increase the wattage to 40W. But still had to adjust the resistance from 0.7 to 0.89 ohm. Temp setting is 215°C
It seems that my boxmod keeps my adjusted resistance.
I'm fine with that setting for the moment.

I had no time yet to read the posted links but will catch up on the weekend!

 

[MUSA Vaporizer]

You should really be increasing your TCR value instead of increasing resistance. If you're using stainless steel coils and SS TRC is 88-95 then you should try 110-120. Since the temp is being calculated at the coils and not at the bowl you will find you need to run a much higher temp at the coils to achieve the desired temp at the bowl increasing TCR will increase overall temp and is a better way. If you increase your resistance you can only go so far off baseline before the resistance/heat calculations are thrown off too much and your mod will error or just force itself out of TC into Wattage mode.

You was right! Thanks for your helpful information!

I changed M1 to 1.10 ohm and M2 to 1.20 ohm and now my ijoy captain PD1865 works perfectly in TCR mode! That is awesome to use! I set it on 40W and 205°C and reach max vaporisazion temp with just a very short preheat!
(I'm sure I can fine tune it to get totally rid of preheat!)

The ijoy captain 18650 is only 44 Euro and it is a very small box mod with 2 cells. (the only disadvantage of this box mod is, that it shut down after 10 seconds and you need to push the fire button again)

Have a nice day guys!

 

[Seek]

You can shorten the preheat (and make it handle fast pulls better) by increasing the wattage.

That is the point of TC - you can make the wattage higher than a wattage mode coould handle for a fast preheat, and then the TC will prevent it from overshooting the target temp and so the temp of the coil can keep steady even when you are hitting it slow or fast.

But if your TC is not updating fast enough, the temperature could then jump up and down around the target temperature with too high wattage.
A fast-updating well-tuned PID TC wouldn't even have this oscillating problem so those can set wattage really high and would preheat very quickly and keep steady on the target temp.

I've drawn what I mean here:

 

[MUSA Vaporizer]

@Seek
My box mod used to act in 40w like in your 80w drawing.
I increased the wattage to 50w now and my box keeps the temp- regardless the draw- exactly as showed in your PID 80w sample.

 

[Seek]

So you're saying that on 40W it was keeping the temp even when hitting it and was oscillating? And on 50W the oscilations stopped?
I'm not sure how I could explain that...
MAybe your mod has PID, that is well tuned for 50W, but on 40 is under damped (bad PID values causing oscilations).

 

[MUSA Vaporizer]

So you're saying that on 40W it was keeping the temp even when hitting it and was oscillating? And on 50W the oscilations stopped?
I'm not sure how I could explain that...
MAybe your mod has PID, that is well tuned for 50W, but on 40 is under damped (bad PID values causing oscilations).

With 40w the temp on the diplay was oscillating. With 50w it has a drop when I start drawing but after the reheat it keeps the temp.
With 65w it acts similar to 50w,i see no difference. But to be sure, I need to do more tests.

Edit: without drawing, the coil is oscillating while looking at it without housing . So maybe not the best PID?!

 

[KeroZen]

Most mods have a crappy stock TC implementation. Good chipsets are: DNA, Dicodes, Hohmtech, SmoAnt, possibly Vaporesso... then any Joyetech/eLeaf/Wismec trifecta once you flash ArcticFox and enable the PI regulator (or my_evic | sur_myevic | tubo_myevic and PID regulator)

 

[MUSA Vaporizer]

@KeroZen thanks for listing up the well working TC units!!

my iJoy box mod seems to stay at 40W in TC mode, also if i try 80W it only displays 40W while heating up.

 

[MUSA Vaporizer]

Did a custom engravement for a friend of mine.
Custom engravements possible on request!
Tell me your thoughts!

 

[MUSA Vaporizer]

An other custom engravement.
Its the dopamine molecule!

 

[Terweedator]

Playing around with my MUSA510 since August and happy to see there is a thread here on FC about this small and effective 510 dryherb vape. Gotta give a shout out to Tobias for making this little beast and even more for keeping improving its parts and sending those out to be installed.
I was actually sold to this vape when I saw the spiral shaped coil, I was really curious about the performances. The use of arizer stems with o-ring to keep them in place made the rest.
The first try has been good but still some learning curve is definitely there : find the right wattage, draw rate and speed is something personal for this kind of vapes and some bowls are needed to find that sweet spot.
I still had a couple of concerns though : The ss wire was glowing a bit too much, at least the way I was using it, and I've read a bit on the argument and I know how this is a big nono for many . The lack of internal insulation was the other: bit too much wood taste added during the session and more precision while installing a coil needed to avoid charred wood.
Discussing about these issues with Tobias I was very happy to get to know that he was working out some smart solutions : A metallic band and extra meshes were sent out to insulate the wood around the coil and a fused clapton wire replaced the previous smaller one(Now these are already included).
These improvements once installed brought the MUSA510 to the next level : The heating shield does not only improve the taste and protects the wood but adds an extra punch increasing and mantaining the amount of heat. The new Tornado coil wrapped in fused clapton barely glows while in use and produces more heat.
Stirring is for me still required to maximize the vapor production and extraction as is the case for convection vapes but not necessary to avoid hotspots because the coil heats quite evenly and the vapor amount is there.
All in all a well built vape that offers some smart and cheap solutions, like the use of arizer stems, The other is the possibility to install many different coil solutions due to the amount of space inside.
Big thanks @MUSA Vaporizer for the passion and the constant support to my many questions!

 

[Seek]

Yes, Tobias also had some great communication with me and sent me a clapton wire and a heater mesh (which I don't know how to use yet).
I've promised to review it, but I think I've failed to make the coil the same way as before, so it might be hard to compare the performance because I'm not sure what's caused by the wire itself and what is caused by the unique coil shape I made.
Anyway the differences that I think are clear are:
1) The clapton is much more securely screwed in. I rarely need to retighten the screws when tinkering with it. As opposed to the classic wire which losoes the screws pretty mcuh everytime I touch it.
2) The resistance is almost twice the classic wire, and the heat up time seems to also be about twice as long. - This could mean than it would benefit much more from high-power TC than the classic wire for great speed and performance.
3) It is a little more elastic, that can be good for it to stay in shape even when bumped or something. But it also makes the shaping of it a little more challenging - if you want to bend a part a certain way you have to bent it a lot more and then hope it goes back to the degree you wanted.
4) It glows less. (But that might have been just the longer heat up time, but also with the higher surface area it might not need to be as hot as the classic wire to deliver the same performance)
5) At first I though it was more efficient with wattage, but after more testing I think it's pretty much equal in that regard. Or maybe it really is more efficient, but I made the coil more bottom heavy for more preheating, so the possible gained efficiency might have been lost there.

I think that's about as much as I am able to say about this wire.

On an unrelated note - I've also found out that it works well with my E-nano stems. They are a little thinner on the outside, so they are a lot looser (can wiggle around quite abit and could slowly fall out if upside down) but the o-ring still manages to keep it airtight so it vapes just as well as the arizer stems.
But the fit might not be guaranteed because as opposed to arizer stems (which need to have an exact outer diamter to fit the Arizer vapes, the e-nano stems need to have an exact inner diameter because they fit the nano on the outside. So the outer diameter could vary and not all e-nano stems might fit air-tightly as the ones I have.

 

[MUSA Vaporizer]

 

[Justpassedu]

Had the Musa a few weeks now , no complaints on my end. Shipping did not take as long as expected to the US, it works well right out of the box . Took me a little time to tinker and find the sweet spot with it like all my on demand Vapes but once I got it down I have been getting amazing flavor throughout every hit & even browning when packed correctly which is not to loose and not to tight. It had a slight wood taste upon the first few bowl packings but diminished as I used it, maybe more so if a smell rather than taste but that is gone . I love love love the fact it’s using the Arizer stem system , this is what drew me to the vape in the 1st place plus the fact I been having a bit of on demand Vas lately . I really can’t complain , bought it on a whim and did hesitate at 1st bc I felt it was a bit pricey in the on demand scene but those worries quickly went away when it arrived and got some use . I feel like I got my money’s worth , the quality and build of it feels really nice . The owner/maker has also been really helpful with any questions I had and quick to answer despite his first language not being English , very helpful and friendly and that’s all I could ask for . I really appreciate it and can’t wait to keep trying all the stem options out in the wild . So far my technique with it has been packing it full but not tamping the load down to hard , I hold the fire button at around 38W’s for a few seconds for a preheat, release and than hold again and start drawing with a medium to slow airflow , as I feel some heat and vapor I release holding the button and speed up my airflow a bit and the vapor just starts flowing . Ty @MUSA Vaporizer for making this really nice Vape , it may not be for everyone but I am definitely enjoying it .

 

[Seek]

So I've finally manager to get my hands on a beautiful top-notch DNA mod. Commence the quality TC testing tomorrow! (Still waiting for High-Amp 18650 cells for it).
But I've already designed my own theme for it so I might post some nice new photos later today.
It has the latest 250C DNA chip in it, with replay mode that I might also try out with this (but I think a well tuned TC might be even better than that).

Update: I put in the Low-Amp arizer batteries in so I can at least try my theme. I set the max Amps to 5A to prevent accidental damage to them. The theme needs a bit of bugfixing, but what is worrying me is that whenever I press the fire button it just asks me again if I put a new atomizer on.

Update: My bad, the fire button acts as a cancel in the new atomizer screen, which to me feels quite unintuitive bt I don't think I could change that.

 

[Seek]

 

[Seek]

Finally got the batteries. Charging them RN, So I might have some results on TC later today. So far I could only use the Arizter ones, which are very restricted and I could only heat it up very slowly with those. But with that testing I figured the stock SS temperature maximum is too cold and I needed to make the TCR curve a lot steeper to fool the mod into thinking it needs to heat up X degrees for every degree it measures - to make it capable of reaching the temperature where it can produce vapor.

 

[Seek]

So I've made the TCR to bring down the vaping range from outside of range to LOW (200°C/392°F) - HIGH (300°C/572°F)

The MAX temp (316°C/600°F) is the maximum the DNA allows and still vapeable on this TCR but very very toasty.
The LOW temp is about the lowest temp where i can get very mild vapor.
The HIGH temp is where it gets very toasty, I would be worried aobut combustion in wattage mode but never combusted yet on TCR, even at the MAX temp.

What I did is that I left the TCR for SS316 the same until 93°C/200°F, so it is not fooled at at when its cold.
The the curve is steeper to force it to leatp forward in the temperature until 204°C/400°F, which is just a bit above the LOW temp. Then the curve returns to a more steady ascension.

Here is the change in the eScribe (SS136 on the top, Musa on the bottom):

As you can see, there is the leap from 200 (boiling water) to 400 (LOW vaping temp), then it coinnues to 600 (HIGH vaping temp / MAX temp) and still continues steadily to 800 (overheat).

So it basically means my stainless 0.8 ohm clapton coil requires to hit a 1.4 - 1.5 TCR coefficient to vape (which is originally beyond the overheat keyframe on the SS316 setting).

Anyway the TC on the DNA has impressed me and I already had high expectations from it (with it's reputation). I expected the temperature of the coil to be very steady and it seems to be so. But I also expected the faster pulls to still be colder because of air spending less time in contact with the heater heating itself up. But so far the vapor output seems to be consistent even if I change my drawing speed a lot.

 

[Seek]

The TC works nicely, but it is clamped at 50W. I think it's because the clapton coil is 0.8 ohms and the DNA chip can't step up the voltage. So 50-60W is about the maximum wattage that it can put through this coil.
That means I can't really boost the heat up with coil and also it strugles with fast draw speeds where 50W is not enough to keep up.
I might try to install the classic simple wire one which has half the ohms, so it should be able to accept twice the wattage.
As for the clapton, shortening it is not really an options, that would reduce the surface area too much.
Using a slightly thicker wire might be one solution if the screws can handle that and if the spiral can be spun and if it exists.
Or maybe a double clapton coil might be a good solution, that would be harder to make especially without touching each other, but probably possible.
Or I think it might be possible to make a spiral of two touching claton wires in parallel, if they go side by side there would not be any voltage at the touching points and they would basically acts like one wire.

 

[KeroZen]

You must be huffing like an elephant if 50W is not enough for your draws. I'm fine with 25-35W in all my similar vapes, obviously YMMV.

 

[Seek]

50W is definitely enough for any normal hit. But keep in mind that Musa 510 has a very open airflow so it's quite easy to hear a strong wind in there when you hit it harder.
As long as I hit it slowly or naturally, 50W is enough and the airflow is also good. But it's easy to put some extra strength to it and take a massive hit in few seconds. And it might be capable of keeping up with it if it wasn't bound at 50W.