Musa 510
- Thread starter MUSA Vaporizer
- Start date
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
@MUSA Vaporizer
If you would supply me with an email of a picture of how high the coil is supposed to be as well as the shape of the coil we could troubleshoot much better.
I have nothing from you in my instagram and I still cannot understand how a business person goes somewhere without any email???
I have only been asking for a picture for 10 days.
If you would supply me with an email of a picture of how high the coil is supposed to be as well as the shape of the coil we could troubleshoot much better.
I have nothing from you in my instagram and I still cannot understand how a business person goes somewhere without any email???
I have only been asking for a picture for 10 days.
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
I've had this Musa 510 for about 20 hours now, here is my initial review:
It is a nicely carved harwood cylinder, has an Arizer Solo/Air mouthpiece o-ring at the top, screen in the middle, and metal heat shield around the coil.
O-rings have about the right ammount of tightness, thee mouhpiece goes in and out well and holds tightly in place with minimal wobble.
The RDA has Two o-rings and the wood is slightly carved to hold on them even tighter.
So you can't emove it just by hands or accidentaly.
It has to be screwed on something to get a grip on to be able to separate the RDA.
It can deliver thick hits if you take the wattage up a little.
But it certainly seems to have some learning curve to it.
As I would expect, it hits colder when you pull fast and hotter when slowly.
So I can get thick clouds at high wattages while also pulling fast, but I'm also risking combustion there.
On lower wattages where accidental combustion doesn't happen for me it can be tricky to get the vapor going and he cloud are not as impressive.
I suspect some of the combustion could also be caused by hotspots.
The original coil forms a tight and wide ring of 3 loops and it delivers more heat to the sides than the center and has 2 hotspots on opposite sides (one bigger).
I've tried to make my own coild that would distribute more heat to the center...
...and I think I've overdid that goal. My coil has a hotspot in the middle and is too cool on the sides.
I'll try something inbetween the next time when I get some more SS wire. I've used all I got for this coil.
Or I could try reshape the original one a little.
So far this is a nice and simple 510 vape with a great compatibility with Arizer stems.
And relatively easily user-replaceable coils.
By that I mean you can easily access the coil and you can make one just with some tweezers and a vaping SS wire.
But it's not really easy that any idiot could do it. You have to know what you are doing when making a coil for this.
It can take some work a lot of tinkering to get it right (mostly to make sure there are no shorts and that it's perfectly secure and centered).
Also solving the hotspots can also be challenging, I'm still yet to succeed at that.
That together with the learning curve and those typical manual on-demand temperature swings - I think this vape is more for the advanced vaporists than newbies.
Also remember that I've only had this for 20 hours and I'm still in the process of learning and making the right coil.
My impressions can still change.
Here is a picture of the original coil (left) and the one I made (right on the RDA), and my drawing of their heat/hotspot profiles below (the rotation can be misaligned):
Here are pics of the wooden body without RDA from above/below (standing on a glass jar to make it see-through):
It is a nicely carved harwood cylinder, has an Arizer Solo/Air mouthpiece o-ring at the top, screen in the middle, and metal heat shield around the coil.
O-rings have about the right ammount of tightness, thee mouhpiece goes in and out well and holds tightly in place with minimal wobble.
The RDA has Two o-rings and the wood is slightly carved to hold on them even tighter.
So you can't emove it just by hands or accidentaly.
It has to be screwed on something to get a grip on to be able to separate the RDA.
It can deliver thick hits if you take the wattage up a little.
But it certainly seems to have some learning curve to it.
As I would expect, it hits colder when you pull fast and hotter when slowly.
So I can get thick clouds at high wattages while also pulling fast, but I'm also risking combustion there.
On lower wattages where accidental combustion doesn't happen for me it can be tricky to get the vapor going and he cloud are not as impressive.
I suspect some of the combustion could also be caused by hotspots.
The original coil forms a tight and wide ring of 3 loops and it delivers more heat to the sides than the center and has 2 hotspots on opposite sides (one bigger).
I've tried to make my own coild that would distribute more heat to the center...
...and I think I've overdid that goal. My coil has a hotspot in the middle and is too cool on the sides.
I'll try something inbetween the next time when I get some more SS wire. I've used all I got for this coil.
Or I could try reshape the original one a little.
So far this is a nice and simple 510 vape with a great compatibility with Arizer stems.
And relatively easily user-replaceable coils.
By that I mean you can easily access the coil and you can make one just with some tweezers and a vaping SS wire.
But it's not really easy that any idiot could do it. You have to know what you are doing when making a coil for this.
It can take some work a lot of tinkering to get it right (mostly to make sure there are no shorts and that it's perfectly secure and centered).
Also solving the hotspots can also be challenging, I'm still yet to succeed at that.
That together with the learning curve and those typical manual on-demand temperature swings - I think this vape is more for the advanced vaporists than newbies.
Also remember that I've only had this for 20 hours and I'm still in the process of learning and making the right coil.
My impressions can still change.
Here is a picture of the original coil (left) and the one I made (right on the RDA), and my drawing of their heat/hotspot profiles below (the rotation can be misaligned):
Here are pics of the wooden body without RDA from above/below (standing on a glass jar to make it see-through):
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Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
@sickmanfraud I don't know how high the coil is supposed to be exacly (I've got an already user-edited one), but I think it doesn't matter that much.
As long as it's not touching the screen or the base itself (and the metal heater shield in the body).
Ideally it should be as far away from the screen and the RDA as possbile (so in the middle).
And if all fails and you can't find anything technically wrong with your unit (so if your resistance reads 0.5-0.7 ohms) you could try pulling more slowly or longer or upping the wattage a little.
Becaue pulling too fast on 35W isn't producing much vapor for me either and I don't think it's because my unit is faulty (it read the correct resistance and heats up evenly) it's just that hitting it too fast on 35W is just too cold.
I think one good update to the desing could be to use a RDA base with an adjustanble air intake holes. Sometimes I think the air resistance is too low (and I don't get to say that often I even like low air resistance). Mostly for direct vaping with arizer stems, with water the airflow is great (but also needs a higher wattage)
As long as it's not touching the screen or the base itself (and the metal heater shield in the body).
Ideally it should be as far away from the screen and the RDA as possbile (so in the middle).
And if all fails and you can't find anything technically wrong with your unit (so if your resistance reads 0.5-0.7 ohms) you could try pulling more slowly or longer or upping the wattage a little.
Becaue pulling too fast on 35W isn't producing much vapor for me either and I don't think it's because my unit is faulty (it read the correct resistance and heats up evenly) it's just that hitting it too fast on 35W is just too cold.
I think one good update to the desing could be to use a RDA base with an adjustanble air intake holes. Sometimes I think the air resistance is too low (and I don't get to say that often I even like low air resistance). Mostly for direct vaping with arizer stems, with water the airflow is great (but also needs a higher wattage)
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KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Nope, for efficiency it should be as close to the load and screen as possible. That's what we found collectively during the BULLI and Project episodes, also confirmed later by RBT and basically all other convection vape makers.
Every millimeter of distance that you add, the required energy increases with a square law, meaning you have to run you coil hotter for the same result. Hotter coils can glow and also if you draw too fast can yield an increased "sucking a hair drier" impression.
There seems to be a lot of wasted space in the Musa but at least it has an internal reflector. All this extra space could be used to increase the coil surface area (making the vape easier to use in power mode and allowing to prevent the coils from glowing even more) but it's of little use if you switch to TC mode. TC mode is the way to go IMHO, completely prevents combustion incidents if setup right.
On the other hand the hot spotting subject is the most complex one and there's no clear-cut solution, apart from empirical experimentation.
Every millimeter of distance that you add, the required energy increases with a square law, meaning you have to run you coil hotter for the same result. Hotter coils can glow and also if you draw too fast can yield an increased "sucking a hair drier" impression.
There seems to be a lot of wasted space in the Musa but at least it has an internal reflector. All this extra space could be used to increase the coil surface area (making the vape easier to use in power mode and allowing to prevent the coils from glowing even more) but it's of little use if you switch to TC mode. TC mode is the way to go IMHO, completely prevents combustion incidents if setup right.
On the other hand the hot spotting subject is the most complex one and there's no clear-cut solution, apart from empirical experimentation.
oddjobold
Vape swap shop
@Seek Glad everything arrived okay and you are getting results with the Musa.
I sold as it seemed to upset my chest, i find this happens with wide open vapes sometimes.
I found this vape needed tweaking from time to time. However when tuned in gave good results.
Its a nice idea but i feel the vapes needs a little more finessing to get the best out of it.
Edit: with a little adapation this could be turned in to something similar to the beast. Funnily enough that is exactely what i have brought with the proceeds of my Musa 510 sale.
I sold as it seemed to upset my chest, i find this happens with wide open vapes sometimes.
I found this vape needed tweaking from time to time. However when tuned in gave good results.
Its a nice idea but i feel the vapes needs a little more finessing to get the best out of it.
Edit: with a little adapation this could be turned in to something similar to the beast. Funnily enough that is exactely what i have brought with the proceeds of my Musa 510 sale.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
What metal heater shield? I have a metal RDA base, and a wood body (except for the screen and o-ring).
@Seek thanks for the pictures. I still want to see a picture of the "factory-made"(MUSA) OG screen.
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
yes I think that since I've moved the coil higher I haven't combusted yet. I've also been trinkering with the original coil for a while to reduce the hotspots, and I think I've made it better, but a little hotspots on the sides are still there. It could take a while until you get it perfect, but then if you have the screws tightened well it should remain that way.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
Can you please tell me about the metal heat shield that you have and I do not.
Your Og coil is not even from the same wire as mine?
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
My vape does not have this shield which is probably why it has such an awful burning taste. I can describe the taste like too much of the "artificial" smoke that is sometimes added to food.
Considering the wire was different and I do not have the heat shield maybe my MUSA 510 was an Alpha or Beta test unit?
Regardless, it still does not perform as it should.
It takes me like hours to read here because I'm on holidays in spain and have no data volume. Because of that I have to correspond/ send pictures via Instagram. I'm back on the 23th September.
The metal reflector is not needed to make the vape perform properly.
@sickmanfraud I just realised, that your unit has no reflector.
I can send you the reflector for free but it won't change the function. I added it to make it more user friendly. You don't have a beta unit. The vape works perfectly fine without it but the coil has to be centered. Heat the coil without the stem and check the distance to the sides throught the mesh inside the vape. Don't heat the unit longer as needed if you don't draw on it. If you have a burned taste the coil is to close to the wood or you heat it to long without drawing.
I asked you already but please tell me how you are using the unit, so I can determine a user failure. It's hard to help with a lack of information...
According to the wire, that doesn't change function in general, this just changes the heatup time and wattage. When I tested your unit, everything worked as it should!
@Seek thank you for your detailed review! And your simulation is aswosme, how did you do that? To determine the center Hotspot, my coils are shaped like a tornado, the center part of the coil has more distance to the load than the outer part of the coil.
Edit: you can determine the outer hotter spots by pushing it down a little bit on the sides (changes the distance to the load)
The metal reflector is not needed to make the vape perform properly.
@sickmanfraud I just realised, that your unit has no reflector.
I can send you the reflector for free but it won't change the function. I added it to make it more user friendly. You don't have a beta unit. The vape works perfectly fine without it but the coil has to be centered. Heat the coil without the stem and check the distance to the sides throught the mesh inside the vape. Don't heat the unit longer as needed if you don't draw on it. If you have a burned taste the coil is to close to the wood or you heat it to long without drawing.
I asked you already but please tell me how you are using the unit, so I can determine a user failure. It's hard to help with a lack of information...
According to the wire, that doesn't change function in general, this just changes the heatup time and wattage. When I tested your unit, everything worked as it should!
@Seek thank you for your detailed review! And your simulation is aswosme, how did you do that? To determine the center Hotspot, my coils are shaped like a tornado, the center part of the coil has more distance to the load than the outer part of the coil.
Edit: you can determine the outer hotter spots by pushing it down a little bit on the sides (changes the distance to the load)
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Ahhh okay
Push the wire a little bit down on the Hotspot side. I would only do this on the hotter side, the other side looks fine!
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
Then please explain how you made and tested my 510 without realizing the heat shield was not there?
If you added this piece to make it more user-friendly why didn't you realize there was no shield when I told you about the burnt taste?
I have told you I used it up to 34 watts as your user manual says. If I am able to get any vapor it tastes like Nasty over smoked meats. The taste is disgusting.
The problem with your 510 vape is not "user failure" you just admitted to "foretting" to install a piece that would be obvious if you even checked your vape before you sent it to me. The problem is "manufacturer failure". If the vape was properly made and shipped it would have been like every other vape I ever bought. this one, yours, does not work and you blame it on me? and I am still waiting (10 days and counting)for you to send me a picture of a brand new coil, properly installed.
I guess there are no internet cafes in Spain? Why sell a vape right before you go on holiday where you have no ability to offer support?
@sickmanfraud I sent you the pictures on Instagram. I asked you to write me a message there to make sure I sent it to the correct account, but there is only one sickmanfraud in insta. You didn't write me a message, so I can't make sure I sent it to the correct person.
I didn't forget the heatshield. I installed it to my new batch to make it more userfriendly. It makes it easier to install the coil.
And I told you that you may need more wattage if you have a faster draw. I also told you to check if the coil has the same distance on every spot to the inner side of the vape.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
I just looked there is no message in my instagram (which I told you last night via PM).
Please send a picture via email which is what I have been asking for all along.
It was just pointed out to me that the burning smells coming from the vape may be unsafe to inhale.
Regarding resistance numbers My DNA 75C says it is not there, my Cuboid mini says no atomizer and my Sinous P80 says resistance is .34 half of what you said it should be.
oddjobold
Vape swap shop
I think this thread shows why i think this vape has potential, but needs a little finessing.
Some (like seek) will love the tinkering opportunities this vape can provide. Adjusting and tweaking to hit the sweet spot. Once reached it does work really well.
Others (like sickmanfraud) will find this frustrating and annoying.
We have a saying in the UK. This vape is "marmite" (you eiher love it or hate it).
I am also not sure if once you have reached the optimal coil build if the coil will wonder and move?
Whatever you think - The compatibility with arizer stems is also a huge bonus, along with the quality of the wood work which is top notch.
Some (like seek) will love the tinkering opportunities this vape can provide. Adjusting and tweaking to hit the sweet spot. Once reached it does work really well.
Others (like sickmanfraud) will find this frustrating and annoying.
We have a saying in the UK. This vape is "marmite" (you eiher love it or hate it).
I am also not sure if once you have reached the optimal coil build if the coil will wonder and move?
Whatever you think - The compatibility with arizer stems is also a huge bonus, along with the quality of the wood work which is top notch.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
The woodwork is top notch but it is a VERY expensive paperweight.
I agree with you @oddjobold that coil should NOT wander.
oddjobold
Vape swap shop
@sickmanfraud
You are misquoting me. I said "i am not sure" if the coil wonders.
In regards to your PM. @MUSA Vaporizer sent me the heat shield and i fitted it myself.
I would also like to add the customer service i recieved from @MUSA Vaporizer was top notch. Genuinely good guy in my opinion.
Edit: Dry herb vapes are a relativley new and evolving product. All vapes should work, but dont expect new and original vapes to be plug and play.
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Thank you so much for your positive vibe! ❤ ❤ ❤
I try to be as helpful and nice as I can.
According to the coil: it doesn't move around in general! My coil get lose once too in the beginning but it stays in place since I screwed it in very tight. Since several months now it works perfectly fine.
I will screw the coil as tight as possible in the future and make sure the coil can't fail anymore.
I agree that the musa 510 has a little learning curve, but I think all the 510 mods has to deal with this. Too many human factors are involved while using it.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
If you want to sell a beta or "not ready for prime time" vape then you should be clear to the customer.
The MUSA 510 was not sold as a beta. For what it cost it should work 100% out of the box.
The burning coil/wood/? is not healthy to breathe in.
@sickmanfraud
I didn't sell you a beta unit as I told you before. And I tested your unit myself and it worked fine! It should worked out of the box. It's unlucky that your coil seemed to move while shipping.
Have you followed my advice and tried to find the point where the coil is to near to the wood? Just bend it a little bit to the other side and everything would be fine. Adjust the wattage to your drawing speed afterwards (fast draw is up to 55w) and your unit would work as it should. You are one minute away from a working unit.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
I followed your advice. However, if I wanted to have to "adjust" parts to make it work I would have made it myself.
As long as there is the foul burning smell when I press the button I will not bring it to my lips or risk inhaling.
Bottom line I received a non-working vape from @MUSA Vaporizer.
@sickmanfraud I told you in pm that it seems to me that you don't want the unit get to work, because you was ignoring all my advices.
And you directly confirmed me that.
Thanks to all the people who tried to help this guy but I think we can't help him.
Good night.
And you directly confirmed me that.
Thanks to all the people who tried to help this guy but I think we can't help him.
Good night.