MFLB "Snick" mod

al bundy

Vaporist
i have a dremmel in the garage.
even a little round recess from a drill bit should work well. :peace:
 
al bundy,

kewpcer

Active Member
Disclaimer!

I don't know how this affects the warranty. Although it's functional, it's really little more than a cosmetic change.

It needs to be more like a short channel for a 4-5 mm section of the cover pin to set in. I tried the round hole at first and it didn't really "engage" enough to give it the bite it needed to ride in a pocket.

Be sure to brace the acrylic cover when you're scoring into it, and don't go to deep. Mine is no more that 1 mm deep and 1.5 mm wide.

@biojugg - Haha. That's all the little tools and nick knacks that i've found i need at arms length when I'm sitting on my arse at the computer and doing very little else.

Including

- afforementioned dull scalpel
- paint brush
- small flat and phillips screwdrivers
- small needle nose and angle cutting pliers
- bear pin from my DBV (so handy)
- peg winder
- Allen wrenches for the bridge and truss rod on my tele
- emory boards of varied grits
- pipe tamp
- Bic lighter
- 3M double sided foam tape
- super glue
- Pens and Bic mechanical pencils

I am ready... Bring it...


To my desk.
 
kewpcer,

caseball2051

Well-Known Member
doing this this weekend, thanks for the post.

what a great idea. This looks much easier than the other mods ive seen also.

Im sure this will be merged with the MFLB thread, so if this disappears you know where to look for it.
 
caseball2051,

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
This seems like a simple modification that could be done during the manufacturing process. I wonder if Magic Flight would consider this?
 
Stu,

kewpcer

Active Member
Stu said:
This seems like a simple modification that could be done during the manufacturing process. I wonder if Magic Flight would consider this?

Oh definitely. I could make a dremel jig for it in under and hour.

TBH, the ball detent down on the other side of the lid as others have discussed would be much sturdier, due to the added leverage, but I like simplicity. I didn't want to risk a more expansive modification of the chassis and then worry about the warranty or the off-gassing of glue. This mod is just a well placed scratch in the cover, which I hope won't be an issue with Magic-Flight if it needs to be replaced.
 
kewpcer,
Nice mod.

I was lucky: my MFLB's cover is tensioned tightly enough from the factory that I never needed to mess with rubber bands and have yet to empty a trench accidentally in my pocket.
 
charliedontsurf,

MG23

Relaxin'
How did you know exactly where to make the scratch? I just don't want to fuck up and put it slightly off center, it would drive me insane.
 
MG23,

al bundy

Vaporist
MattyGTwenty3 said:
How did you know exactly where to make the scratch? I just don't want to fuck up and put it slightly off center, it would drive me insane.


i took 2 pieces of blue painters tape ,or masking tape,
tape it to the lid ,closed the lid squarely and pressed the spring into the tape.
when you oped the lid a quarter turn you will see the spring indent.:)

i did mine with a dremmel type tool and a round tip as wide as the spring LENGTH impression.
closes nice more like a round tip so theres a dip where the spring catches.
thanks for the idea.
you could use the cut off wheel and just make a SMALL slice into the dent.
 
al bundy,

weedemon

enthusiast
i would like to hear the folk from MF weigh in on the subject, but I think it looks like a fantastic idea too. :)

not gonna risk it personally though. btw i didn't like the elastic that came with em either. so i used the one you get when you buy broccoli. that one thick little band works a treat :)
 
weedemon,

hanfhead

is high
I actually did this a long time ago to my box. It worked good for a while but the notch will start wearing into a half circle groove. It does not affect operation but it doesn't hold anymore and looks ugly.:/
 
hanfhead,

willieR

Been here since 2009
kewpcer said:
TBH, the ball detent down on the other side of the lid as others have discussed would be much sturdier, due to the added leverage, but I like simplicity. I didn't want to risk a more expansive modification of the chassis and then worry about the warranty or the off-gassing of glue.

I agree. I did the ball catch modification and am really thrilled, but that process is not for the feint of heart. The placement of the hole is critical. The leverage is maxed but the risk is large, though I would certainly do it again for friends, as I now know what to do. No glue, by the way. Literally less than a drop of epoxy in the very bottom of the hole is all.

I think this Snick mod is genius. I'm gurious how it'll hold up.

EDIT: I just read the post above...
 
willieR,

kewpcer

Active Member
hanfhead said:
I actually did this a long time ago to my box. It worked good for a while but the notch will start wearing into a half circle groove. It does not affect operation but it doesn't hold anymore and looks ugly.:/

That possible outcome is why i made the catch divot as small and shallow as I could. I thought about putting a very thin coating of superglue in the channel to fill in the micro scratches and flaking that the scoring process leaves in the channel that could flake away with use. I guess I'll go ahead an try that.

How long did your catch divot last before it rounded out"

Perhaps a shallow circular depression and a tweak to the spring to add more downward pressure would work better for this. The shallow depression, especially if polished out somewhat, would be less likely to wear.

Of course it would lose it's "snick" sound that i like so much, but it would have a smoother "glide into place and stay" effect. I have in my mind a near magnetic kind of feel if it's done right.
 
kewpcer,

hanfhead

is high
It lasted a couple months until it wasn't holding anymore. It hasn't gone much further than the original hole but it has definitely made "ramps" so it doesn't sit in the groove tight.

I would be wary of using CA glue as it will cloud the lid from the fumes.
 
hanfhead,

kewpcer

Active Member
Have you tried bending the spring down more to add pressure to the lid from the spring?
 
kewpcer,

hanfhead

is high
kewpcer said:
Have you bending the spring down more to add pressure to the lid from the spring?

At one time I did tighten it because I dropped the box and it would spin open freely. I opened the lid backwards and kind of twisted the clip downward with a small tipped pair of needlenose.
 
hanfhead,

wthanna

Well-Known Member
kewpcer said:
hanfhead said:
I actually did this a long time ago to my box. It worked good for a while but the notch will start wearing into a half circle groove. It does not affect operation but it doesn't hold anymore and looks ugly.:/

That possible outcome is why i made the catch divot as small and shallow as I could. I thought about putting a very thin coating of superglue in the channel to fill in the micro scratches and flaking that the scoring process leaves in the channel that could flake away with use. I guess I'll go ahead an try that.

How long did your catch divot last before it rounded out"

Perhaps a shallow circular depression and a tweak to the spring to add more downward pressure would work better for this. The shallow depression, especially if polished out somewhat, would be less likely to wear.

Of course it would lose it's "snick" sound that i like so much, but it would have a smoother "glide into place and stay" effect. I have in my mind a near magnetic kind of feel if it's done right.

You used a key word that got my attention... MAGNETIC. What if there were small magnets recessed in the corners of the box and/or lid?
 
wthanna,

willieR

Been here since 2009
You would want the ball catch. It really is an elegant solution. It's in the front corner of the LB so it has the most leverage to stay shut. The ball is on a spring, so it gets depressed until it is under the small round area I made in the lid. Then it clicks into place. No marks on the lid due to the smooth round ball bearing surface. The lid is sealed tight, tight.

Again, this came out so well that I would do it again in a heartbeat. I used a drill press with a brad point bit for a super-precise drill. Worked perfectly.
 
willieR,

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
willieR said:
You would want the ball catch. It really is an elegant solution. It's in the front corner of the LB so it has the most leverage to stay shut. The ball is on a spring, so it gets depressed until it is under the small round area I made in the lid. Then it clicks into place. No marks on the lid due to the smooth round ball bearing surface. The lid is sealed tight, tight.

Again, this came out so well that I would do it again in a heartbeat. I used a drill press with a brad point bit for a super-precise drill. Worked perfectly.

That is the best and most elegant solution, but as I said in the MFLB thread I think the extra manufacturing complexity and cost would exceed the value added for most customers.
 
pakalolo,

hanfhead

is high
The ball catch looked fantastic but the link from the other thread was almost 20 bucks for a tiny ball bearing and a spring. A little pricey for what it is, magicflight would need to get a huuuuge volume discount to justify adding the extra build time to each unit. Also there was rumor of the price raising as it is.


How about this. I think a small round headed brass tack would be like the poor man's ball catch.

Think trunk trim or decorative upholstery nails, not thumbtacks. Smaller diameter and higher bump.

FAaX5.jpg
 
hanfhead,

willieR

Been here since 2009
There are much less expensive ball catches (I've seen brass ones for under $5... mine's stainless steel which isn't needed) and I also bought from the manufacturer and they're always higher than their distributors. I didn't care, as I was hot for a solution.

The rounded brass button should work, given that the lid can be raised slightly to get over the hump
 
willieR,
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