I see no reason it shouldn't work with the Maud Dib, but I haven't tried it (don't own one). Here's some additional information that might us to better understand it:
A regulated sub-ohm capable mod is required. It needn't be super high powered, but the sub-ohm capable ones generally are. An RDA base is required to provide the physical and electrical connectivity to the mod. It will fit RDA's up to 25mm, which is a common size. Insert the RDA base into the dock and screw it into the mod, sandwiching the dock between mod and RDA and tighten down with the dock oriented as you like. Attach the wires to the RDA, polarity doesn't matter (the blue wire is +, if you must). Push the clip down a bit and slide the MFLB onto the dock. Squeeze it on somewhat firmly, and allow it to spring back some and come to rest against the clip. Widths of MFLB's can vary quite a bit, so you might need to remove and repeat this, slightly bending the dock's positive conductor tab (the shiny spring steel thing on the end of the dock's AA emulator) to ensure good contact. Dial your mod down to about 10 watts to start with. Upon firing the mod, it should detect the resistance of the MFLB at about .14 ohms. Up to about .18 is okay, but above that and you probably don't have good contact. It is important to confirm this, and check it periodically. We don't have this problem when using AA's, since we physically press them into contact firmly when using the MFLB as delivered. When you're happy with the mount, fire it and enjoy, carefully dialing the power level of your mod up/down as desired. Please be cautious here, too much power can damage the MFLB and excessively heat the dock. I typically use about 12-14 watts on my setup.
Thanks for your interest.
