Log Concept

[Abysmal Vapor]

Hey guys ! I wanted to hear your feelings on some stuff about log vapes. The one i am making is more like the size of the EV-2 though but still a logvape. Latest prototype is 15 cm x 7 cm bamboo with a 6 x 5 cm corkplug base facilitating female/male 19/26 glass sleeve.
1) First lets discuss the plug.
How do you feel having the plug on the log itself vs having a nice short cable(can be rope,canopy,or colorful patterns )with the plug outside the vaporizer ?
I cant see any real benefits of having the plug onto the log myself . It adds complexity to the build,also bamboo can split while drilling.
My concept involves only Glass,SS,Bamboo,Cork,2 short wires,ceramic connector,2.1/5.5 plug . The only thing that has plastic is the plug,also there is that circuitboard like material into it too. So leaving out of the body contributes for even better purity.
Just to mention my airpath is just glass with 2 screens and the area of intake air is roomtemp. I am talking more like it would still be blasting hot air into the room,so if the plug is left out all it parts are going to be cold too. Another pro point is that you can very easy change the plug or the connection type if needed. Instaling the plug on the unit pretty much makes user repair a lot harder.
The only pro i can think of having the plug onto the vape is that it looks a bit more minimalistic.
2) Controller Knobs vs Buttons ?
I thought i prefer knobs ,but it is sometimes hard to dial precisely the exact voltage in mind,while the buttons offer 0.01 accuracy . With my vaporizer you dont really need to adjust temperature a lot, unless you do concentrates i dont se a reason once you find you sweet spot,but still i would like to hear peoples opinions. My sweetspot on da latest heater is 6.66v eating - 19.19 watts,lol.
3) Do you prefer all in one PSU + Controller or Separate devices ?
Personally dont really care .

 

[lazylathe]

@Abysmal Vapor

Congrats on designing your own log vape!!

1- The plug.
I would prefer a direct connection to the heater versus a plug that is part of the vape.
The E-Nano does the internal plug excellently but it is a much thicker wood.
So long as the connecting cable is very soft and flexible and long enough, you should be good.
As you mentioned, user repair would also be easier.

2- Knob VS buttons.
Does not really make a difference as long as they work. PID's have buttons as well as a lot of vaporizers but then a lot of vapes use knobs as well.
Anything with a nice clear display would be nice.

3- All-in-one VS individual parts.
This also depends on what you are going to offer.
Some PSU's plug into the wall with only a wire to worry about.
Some have the power wire, the brick and then the connecting wire. These are not my favorite as there is a lot of wire to hide and deal with.
A good quality wall-wart that plugs into the controller would be neat and tidy, only 2 wire to deal with.

Have you made a thread about your vape yet or is it still under wraps?

 

[Hippie Dickie]

okay, 3A (more or less) is enough current to start eating the strands of a multi-strand power cable. As you see from my design i opted for the plug soldered directly onto the pcb (the PID heater temperature control). This is for robustness of the connection - never will have a loose solder joint - and when it is unplugged i know for sure that all is safe. The pcb plug is recessed inside the cube (so doesn't disturb the cubiness) - power cable must be removed to fit into the leather case.

potentiometers (knobs) eventually can develop a null resistance spot at the "sweet spot" - either fails from too much current or won't get hot. i like buttons = very precise. With +5 & -4 allows for single degree setting. i find i now like to hit the +5 several times toward the end of the session. Or some super compressed buds require a hotter temp than normal (i once got some GSC from CA that had been stepped on by, i can only assume, an elephant … had to start at 430°F to get it hot enough to convection vape).

i have device + controller all together in a 2" cube - but separate the cube from the battery power source (

42" cable) ​

so there is much less chance for personal danger from a bad battery. you are using a wall wart so not an issue for you.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

@Abysmal Vapor

Congrats on designing your own log vape!!

1- The plug.
I would prefer a direct connection to the heater versus a plug that is part of the vape.
The E-Nano does the internal plug excellently but it is a much thicker wood.
So long as the connecting cable is very soft and flexible and long enough, you should be good.
As you mentioned, user repair would also be easier.

2- Knob VS buttons.
Does not really make a difference as long as they work. PID's have buttons as well as a lot of vaporizers but then a lot of vapes use knobs as well.
Anything with a nice clear display would be nice.

3- All-in-one VS individual parts.
This also depends on what you are going to offer.
Some PSU's plug into the wall with only a wire to worry about.
Some have the power wire, the brick and then the connecting wire. These are not my favorite as there is a lot of wire to hide and deal with.
A good quality wall-wart that plugs into the controller would be neat and tidy, only 2 wire to deal with.

Have you made a thread about your vape yet or is it still under wraps?

Thanks for your input ! Yes it is going to be under wraps for some time.. I wasted almost an year being happy how great the heater concepts are working both in 18mm and 14mm, male and female versions. All behaving a little different but working great..
The most hard to build part is the heater,it takes some serious finger yoga and torch play,but after a lot of trial and error i have started to achieve what i want.Wasted a lot of time exploring different variations and i ended up having , another 2 versions of my heater,that worked great and were even more innovative that my original idea ,but i decided to leave them for the future and get shit done with this concept..Experimented with various SS grades and Kanthal grades and Nichrome, ended up using 1mm Zirconia wire for vaping purposes,it gives me most comfortable ohm value for my needs and is very pure.
I left the body concept for last cause my brand new drillpress got stolen in a house robbery a while ago,and since money were tight lately decide to go with a bamboo for the prototypes. Which is not a less hassle than wood, got only 2 pieces good enough for my needs from 3 meter bamboo rod.. diameter and shape vary a lot,you are not in control like with wood.
For now the next on the list is to make a few units for few local buddies and gather feedback and monitor the wear and tear. Also going to try rebuild my toolbox,so will try to get add something useful whenever i can.
) Gonna share a few photos once i am trough with the above,but for now i dont wanna post anythign concrete as everything is a subject to a change.. Fitting things into body is a bit of a obstacle when one whats to preserve purity of airpath .

okay, 3A (more or less) is enough current to start eating the strands of a multi-strand power cable. As you see from my design i opted for the plug soldered directly onto the pcb (the PID heater temperature control). This is for robustness of the connection - never will have a loose solder joint - and when it is unplugged i know for sure that all is safe. The pcb plug is recessed inside the cube (so doesn't disturb the cubiness) - power cable must be removed to fit into the leather case.

potentiometers (knobs) eventually can develop a null resistance spot at the "sweet spot" - either fails from too much current or won't get hot. i like buttons = very precise. With +5 & -4 allows for single degree setting. i find i now like to hit the +5 several times toward the end of the session. Or some super compressed buds require a hotter temp than normal (i once got some GSC from CA that had been stepped on by, i can only assume, an elephant … had to start at 430°F to get it hot enough to convection vape).

i have device + controller all together in a 2" cube - but separate the cube from the battery power source (

42" cable) ​

so there is much less chance for personal danger from a bad battery. you are using a wall wart so not an issue for you.

Thank you too ! I have eaten all your thread and it is my main inspiration along with the GS. My heaters have good mass and are very stable with simple PWM regulation,I gave up on the PID part for now as it is going to be just too much for my limited skillset ,but i wanna try that at some point . My cables are two pretty fat (4mm2),everything in my concept is luke warm at best ,except from the heater i can touch any part outside and inside the log.

 

[strech]

Knobs or buttons don't matter much I would choose based on your cost and manufacturing.

I'm not sure what you saying about the plug. Could just be in not following been a long day with the CPA today. (I hate taxes)

For cables make them durable. I had some issues with cables on my underdog. Took awhile to pinpoint the cable as the issue.

 

[Hippie Dickie]

Wasted a lot of time exploring different variations … that worked great and were even more innovative that my original idea ,but i decided to leave them for the future and get shit done with this concept

i know exactly what you mean!

For cables make them durable.

totally agree!