Iso hash oil questions

[BL4sT]

Hi !

I'm into concentrates for a couple months, I prefer that now.. cause of the intense high you can get with 2-3 single drop. I use 99% ISO with nice buds.. always gave nice results. I just have some questions for you! Or just give tips/opinions about oil

Using hot knives or a nail with oil is vaporizing? I think it is, cause my bong stay clean

You think it's safe even after the alcool evaporate? Any alcool remains in the product ?
Should I use 94% comestible alcool ? Just not sure about the safety of that.. same for bho!

I've seen that when you got your iso oil ready(pic1), you heat it on the stove to get it melting.. and supposed to give a better product, I tried it(pic2).. lot of bubbles in it.. what's about that technique? I was reading about budder.. lol

Oil is the better medecine I've tried. Just concerned about the risks of it ! Maybe make hash with water/ice is a better choice. Just give your toughts!

Thank's!

 

[Rico420]

ISO hash is an alright alternative to BHO in my opinion. ISO, even 99% pulls way too much nasty tasting chlorophyll and other non desirable organic materials in your bud/abv. I would recommend that if you are going to use ISO hash for smoking, to only do several quick ~30 second washes, in the freezer (helps alot with getting actives out of plant materials, and reduces chlorophyll solubility due to temp). If you are going to use your iso hash for edibiles this is not necessary at all, and a long room temp soak will pull all/most of the goodies better compared to a few 30 second quick washes. Basically if you want a good tasting smokable oil, the way to go is quickwash iso or butane. Butane/hexane and other hydrocarbons tend to pull much less if any chlorophyll and are better solvents for THC/CBD/ETC. As far as contaminants go, i always test evap a sample of my iso before using on any extractions, if its good safe pure iso, there will be no residue. The best way to make sure you don't have any extra iso in your product is to heat it up, just a lil bit so you can smell the terpenoids (flavor molecules in weed), if you can smell terps and no iso you are good. Iso boils before terpenoids do. And you are right, water (bubble) hash is the best imo, simply because water is the only contaminant you can have, and you get whole trichromes instead of whatever your iso can pull from the trichromes ie- full spectrum cannabis extract vs. only the portion of the trichrome that is soluble in iso.

 

[weedemon]

I made some oil outta a bottle of iso i had been using to wash all my vape parts with about 3 weeks ago. i filtered the iso though some coffee filters, then using a hot water bath evaporated it all (1 liter) over 4 hours on my patio.

scrape up the remains and ran a heated steel rod to stir it and try to get rid of any extras.

as far as i know this is the best we can do with regards to refining the product.

my product looks like midway between your 2 pics there. a dark golden thick but fluid molasses substance. all one consistency

 

[reece]

Here is a the recipe I use. It works like a charm every time. I've only used it with bud. It doesn't pull any chlorophyll (as best I can tell). The end result of the first wash is always golden.

http://forum.grasscity.com/harvesti...ness-isomerized-frozen-hash-oil-crystals.html

 

[BL4sT]

Thank's for your answers.

The isomerization is the thing I was looking for! I'm trying it now.

And I have to change my way of doing my oil, I think my iso liquid is too greenish.
A T-Break could be usefull too.. damn, so much THC in oil

 

[reece]

I think it's actually decarboxylation. There was some debate in the thread. Not that it matters.

It's been a little while since I've done it but I think I remember the liquid being greenish. When it was time to scrape it was golden. Just follow those directions.

I'm starting to get that itch...

 

[willieR]

I think Isomerization = decaboxylation in this case. The removal of the carboxyl group creates the isomer.

That is one fantastic link, Reese. Thanks for that!

 

[stroh]

like others have mentioned, washing whole nugs for no more than 30 seconds produces great looking oil that turns to shatter if further purged in the oven to remove any trace amounts of alcohol left in the oil. i purge at 220F for about 10-15 minutes depending on batch size.

also, i hear that using a vacuum pump to speed up the filter process, as the alcohol takes awhile to seep through the coffee filter, absorbing more chlorophyll while this happens, and using a pump eliminates this.

heres a couple pictures of the last batch i made

after some dabs

 

[reece]

...as the alcohol takes awhile to seep through the coffee filter, absorbing more chlorophyll while this happens....

I use my fingers to hold the bud in the jar so there is only iso in the filter.

 

[willieR]

Hasn't Butane been determined to create a hazard? Not fire (although that's a risk) but rather with incomplete evaporation. I have been concerned about incomplete Butane evaporation

 

[AGBeer]

A method to help keep the chlorophyll down is to freeze your trim/buds as well as the alcohol before hand.
This is coming from a buddy who makes pounds of the stuff.

 

[stroh]

...as the alcohol takes awhile to seep through the coffee filter, absorbing more chlorophyll while this happens....

I use my fingers to hold the bud in the jar so there is only iso in the filter.

i also strain my weed/alcohol mixture before pouring into the filter, if you shake vigorously, then more often than not, very small particles of plant matter become fragmented and pass through my mesh strainer, its just common sense that the longer the alcohol sits on the filter, the more chlorophyll and other unwanted stuff gets absorbed.

Hasn't Butane been determined to create a hazard? Not fire (although that's a risk) but rather with incomplete evaporation. I have been concerned about incomplete Butane evaporation

there is a debate whether or not BHO contains traces of ethyl mercaptan, the chemical used to create butane's "smell", as it is an invisible, odorless gas naturally, E M is added for safety reasons in case of leaks, and it does not evaporate with the rest of the butane. There are those who claim that Vector does not contain this, but im pretty sure all butane available in the U.S. has this chemical in it. As to whether or not this is actually harmful to your health im not certain on, as i know many BHO enthusiasts who seem healthy enough and have been running tane for years. i prefer ISO for the full THC/CBD/CBN ratio as butane mostly dissolves the THC,but not so much the other cannabinoids.

 

[weedemon]

...as the alcohol takes awhile to seep through the coffee filter, absorbing more chlorophyll while this happens....

I use my fingers to hold the bud in the jar so there is only iso in the filter.

i also strain my weed/alcohol mixture before pouring into the filter, if you shake vigorously, then more often than not, very small particles of plant matter become fragmented and pass through my mesh strainer, its just common sense that the longer the alcohol sits on the filter, the more chlorophyll and other unwanted stuff gets absorbed.

Hasn't Butane been determined to create a hazard? Not fire (although that's a risk) but rather with incomplete evaporation. I have been concerned about incomplete Butane evaporation

there is a debate whether or not BHO contains traces of ethyl mercaptan, the chemical used to create butane's "smell", as it is an invisible, odorless gas naturally, E M is added for safety reasons in case of leaks, and it does not evaporate with the rest of the butane. There are those who claim that Vector does not contain this, but im pretty sure all butane available in the U.S. has this chemical in it. As to whether or not this is actually harmful to your health im not certain on, as i know many BHO enthusiasts who seem healthy enough and have been running tane for years. i prefer ISO for the full THC/CBD/CBN ratio as butane mostly dissolves the THC,but not so much the other cannabinoids.

damn, dude welcome to FC! sounds like you can give me some lessons!

 

[reece]

...as the alcohol takes awhile to seep through the coffee filter, absorbing more chlorophyll while this happens....

I use my fingers to hold the bud in the jar so there is only iso in the filter.

i also strain my weed/alcohol mixture before pouring into the filter, if you shake vigorously, then more often than not, very small particles of plant matter become fragmented and pass through my mesh strainer, its just common sense that the longer the alcohol sits on the filter, the more chlorophyll and other unwanted stuff gets absorbed.

I see what you're saying. I thought you had the whole buds sitting in the strainer. From the results I've seen I'd say the amount of extra chlorophyll absorbed makes little difference.

 

[VWFringe]

from another site:

This guy (Robert A. Nelson) wrote some pretty solid sounding instructions roughly based off of this method also:

6.2 Extraction ~

Cannabis must be dried be it is extracted, because it is not possible to remove more than 50% of the cannabinoids from fresh material THC-Acid is difficult to extract If you plant to convert the THCA to THC, the plant material should be thoroughly decarboxylated by heating it under nitrogen at 105 C for 1 hour before performing a solvent extraction.

Chloroform is the most efficient solvent for the extraction of THC from cannabis. A single extraction will remove 98-99% of the cannabinoids within 30 minutes. A second extraction removes only 88-99% of the cannabinoids within 30 minutes. A second extraction removes 100% of the THC. Light petroleum ether (60-80) also works well, but a single extraction removes only 88-95% of the cannabinoids; a double extraction removes up to 99%. Ethanol also can be used, but it removes ballast pigments and sugars which complicate the purification of the resin (11, 12)

Extract the dried cannabis with a suitable solvent for several hours at room temperature or by refluxing. Filter through charcoal to clarify the solution, then chill overnight to precipitate waxes, then filter the solution again. Concentrate it to one-half volume, and extract it with 2% aqueous sodium sulfate (to prevent oxidation). Separate the aqueous layer, and strip the solvent. The residue is crude hemp oil.

The odoriferous terpenes can be removed by steam or vacuum distillation. Cautious distillation in vacuo yields a fraction of crude red oil (bp 100-220 C/3 mm). This can be purified by redistillation or column chromatography. Use ethanol to remove the residue from the flask while it is still hot. Filter the solution through charcoal, and strip the solvent. Distill the residue to yield pure red oil (bp 175-195 C /2 mm). Distillation must be stopped if smoke appears, indicating decomposition. (13, 14)

Because THC is heat-sensitive, it is preferable to isolate the cannabinoids by column chromatography. The simplest method of column chromatography is performed with ethanol and ether extracts of hemp on alumina, yielding two major fractions: (1) chlorophyll, CBD, and CBN, and (2) THC. A second, more difficult method is performed on Florisil (use 10 times the weight of the oil) with the solvent system hexane:2% methanol. This yields a doubly-concentrated, viscous oil which can be repeatedly chromatographed on alumina to separate the THC and CBD. (15)

this was a thread from 2006 where a guy was thinking of isolating THC using a chromotography column and silica gel...someone responded in 2011, pointing out it will never be cost effective and would take $500 in solvent alone and a ten inch column filled with 10 liters of silica gel to process just 10 grams of BHO. (the responder says no drug that's mass produced uses chromotography in any step of it's manufacture. interesting, answers an old question i had...oh, well

 

[stroh]

I use my fingers to hold the bud in the jar so there is only iso in the filter.

i also strain my weed/alcohol mixture before pouring into the filter, if you shake vigorously, then more often than not, very small particles of plant matter become fragmented and pass through my mesh strainer, its just common sense that the longer the alcohol sits on the filter, the more chlorophyll and other unwanted stuff gets absorbed.

Hasn't Butane been determined to create a hazard? Not fire (although that's a risk) but rather with incomplete evaporation. I have been concerned about incomplete Butane evaporation

there is a debate whether or not BHO contains traces of ethyl mercaptan, the chemical used to create butane's "smell", as it is an invisible, odorless gas naturally, E M is added for safety reasons in case of leaks, and it does not evaporate with the rest of the butane. There are those who claim that Vector does not contain this, but im pretty sure all butane available in the U.S. has this chemical in it. As to whether or not this is actually harmful to your health im not certain on, as i know many BHO enthusiasts who seem healthy enough and have been running tane for years. i prefer ISO for the full THC/CBD/CBN ratio as butane mostly dissolves the THC,but not so much the other cannabinoids.

damn, dude welcome to FC! sounds like you can give me some lessons!

why thank you for the kind welcome i am enjoying my stay here thus far, this community seems very friendly and holds a wealth of knowledge regarding vaporizers, of which i am still a novice (heck i still consider myself a novice at making ISO oil, only been doing it for a couple years, and only in the past year have i refined my technique to produce oil with little contaminants instead of the usual black qwiso hash)

I use my fingers to hold the bud in the jar so there is only iso in the filter.

i also strain my weed/alcohol mixture before pouring into the filter, if you shake vigorously, then more often than not, very small particles of plant matter become fragmented and pass through my mesh strainer, its just common sense that the longer the alcohol sits on the filter, the more chlorophyll and other unwanted stuff gets absorbed.

I see what you're saying. I thought you had the whole buds sitting in the strainer. From the results I've seen I'd say the amount of extra chlorophyll absorbed makes little difference.

yeah the amount of contaminants absorbed is definitely minimal at best, i've just heard and seen good things about the vacuum pump/filter flask. i have yet to try it though, so perhaps in the future i will do a little comparison of filter flask vs standard coffee filter setup.

 

[BL4sT]

Nice to see i'm not alone into concentrates here !

Thank's to all of you for your answers.. really appreciated.

I changed my method, and results a greattt. I froze my buds and alcool, and didn't pud the buds and alcool mixture in the filter. So liquid was pretty much transparent , and not greenish. But i only shake 5-10 secs, I'll do another run tonight. I changed my buds too.. just got some jack herer, love that medical bud!

Love that stuff.. It's the first time I've had some clear oil like that.. no black at all.. no purge done too!
Stroh, I love that dish !!! I have to get one, really nice

see yA!

 

[stroh]

mmmm tasty looking batch bl4st, how does the consistency come out without purge? my oil always turns to shatter after purging, which i don't mind, but it can be hard to work with after it melts onto my dish. also etsy has some pretty talented glass blowers that are usually happy to make just about anything to your specifications. i wanted a dish that was stealthy and on the smaller side, though still able to hold a decent amount of errls, and ended up with this sweet snail dish that can be turned upside down to disguise the contents.

 

[BL4sT]

Haha nice, and pretty useful!

The oil was harder than my last batch, not the oil texture, strech a lot ..
It looks like BHO, really clear.. no green or black, fantastic. But, for 8g i got about .2 so.. another run is needed Best one so far for me though!

What about the white/yellow color? can't believe it's iso.lol

Little update. I decided to add no heat after evap this time.. I only stirred it ! You'll see the difference in the 3 pictures.. no heat, only stir a bit. It looks like budder..... lolll never saw that yet..
And take a look at the non-focused part .. creamy, butterscotch, no words.. !

 

[stroh]

ahh that is beautiful, i buddered up one of my last batches, but as a second thought after already smoking most of the oil. i had such a small amount left that it was hardly worth it, but it did make it a little easier to handle. man i wanna do a batch now sooo bad haha i just don't have the cash to drop on the herb right now

 

[VWFringe]

how do you purge?

is purging the same as clearing?

i saw some Chubb's Wax that looked white chips, but didnt appear oily or buddered at all

the pictures look so different from when the herb isn't frozen, huh? wow

good info if ISO carries more cannibinoids than butane

 

[BL4sT]

I'll let the other answer for the purge.. but I think, it's by heating it after the evap.. to get it more pure.. not sure.

First time I used frozen buds, first time I have these results. Beside the texture and color.. I didn't see a difference really in the taste or high.. even with purge..

How do you buddered it? Mine looks like budder .. but it's clearly not. And I'm pretty sure Budder is a chemical process to get the THC-acetate.. and playing with acid, so.. too many people think they make budder, while it's not..

 

[stroh]

purging refers to using heat to cook off any remaining solvent, whether your method be a double boiler, baking, or even whipping into budder

to my knowledge, budder is made simply by heating the oil and whipping air into it (which can be achieved simply by stirring) to create a more solid end product, and to help remove any traces of ISO as heat and mechanical energy help to evaporate this.

i would classify your second picture as budder for sure

 

[BL4sT]

I never apply heat on these And, tbh .. it was pretty much the same.. budder seems to have a gain of thc .. 99.7% pure , read about the THC-Acetate.. thats interesting!

 

[stroh]

i have not read into THC-acetate so i cannot comment on that, but i will be sure to check it out later when i have more free time

i was under the impression that budder was made simply by "churning" the oil product, an outside source of heat isn't really necessary if your product isn't shatter, even then just stirring the oil will usually generate enough heat to "budder" it up, and that is why you notice a thickened, less translucent end product after stirring it.

i think the purer end product refers, not to an increase of THC percentage, but to a decrease in solvent percentage as whipping it up helps evaporate that. In theory, budder actually DEGRADES THC, as light and exposure to air degrades THC normally, and what are we whipping up into the budder? air! that being said, i do not feel that the degradation is in any form noticeable, and i actually feel that budder may be a superior consistency, but i do not have all that much experience with it so i cannot judge that quite yet.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcaLGxk_m9c&feature=related