HiYes I have been able to repair a unit that had suffered the same fate I believe... It appeared to begin it's normal start up but it wasn't able to heat so it would shut down at a period of time......
The trouble with attempting to work on these earlier batches... differing things were done to address issues along the way so you will very likely run into things being glued making disassembling near impossible without breaking something.......
There are additional things to be careful of like; cap w or w/o retaining screw, early versions of the ribbon cable very fragile.....yea you really need to understand how it was assembled and even then it is very easy to break it further or more completely......
Should you successfully gain access to the inside the only issue that I was actually able to repair was the issue where the heating chamber cannot heat because it has lost connection to the 1 or both of the posts it is soldered to...... and I can tell you it was a royal pain in the ass to get it to reattach with my small soldering iron {pencil}......now the sad news in my case I was able to finally after several failed attempts....I got it to stay soldered and it was now heating up while all apart on the bench in front of me.....yep thats correct.....once I attempted to reassemble the whole thing again.... I must have shorted something out..... I made sure by taking it all back apart again and the chamber had stayed connected and I had now broken it more or actually ...completely.....
I know how you feel.... and if it's out of warranty and you still wish to try.... I can give you a few things to watch out for while taking it apart if you like.....
I would like to recommend that you at least ask Greg to see if he feels he could possible repair it for you..... he has posted in the past that he has had a better track record repairing the earlier revision models and I think the INH1004 was even a bit better but I'm sure availability of still having or being able to get the older parts might be an issue...... Greg is your guy to give you the best coarse of action by far........so please give him a shout out at admin@inhalater.com
OK so I hope we are talking about a unit that is NOT under warranty any longer or Inhalater has told you they will not warranty it for whatever reason.....Hi
How did you actually get the heating element out of the unit??? Is it glued in?? I had a look and didnt wanna force it just in case
OK s I hope we are talking about a unit that is NOT under warranty any longer or Inhalater has told you they will not warranty it for whatever reason.....
The heating chamber slides out of the bottom just like the battery...after you have removed the switch cap and you were careful to lift {opposite the USB} the switch assembly out and let it flop to the outside and remove the battery..... up inside you will see a small spring....the chamber is directly above that...
So now you will need to push that entire white sleeve down and out the bottom....without a cap in it you should be able to see a small white ring {the top of the chamber sleeve} use something like a tool set socket or nut driver that will be able to fit inside the XP outer shell and still get a bite on the white ring...
Now you need to carefully with even pressure slide {push down} the entire white chamber sleeve..it will likely catch the edge at the bottom and hang up a little but it will push past the lip..... once that is out of the body shell you can now see a small circuit board at the base of the sleeve which is where the ribbon cable attaches....this will pop out of the chamber sleeve but I would NOT pull on anything to get it out of the sleeve..... but rather I would again push it out of the sleeve from the inside....maybe use a pencil with a good eraser on it so we don't damage anything...{eraser end down}....
Now you will have the heating chamber removed and be able to see the thicker pins that the chamber actually is soldered to.....
One of my two legs had lost a good connection.... and I had a heck of a time trying to get it to stay soldered......once I did it began to work again......but as I had posted.....be extra careful putting it all back together..... something else happened when I put mine all back together cause it worked 1 more time then that was it....back to the same issue but this time after taking it all apart again....expecting to find that my solder joint had failed again....well it was still good {checked it with Ohm meter}....
Btw if you have an Ohm meter....Greg can tell you what and where to Ohm things out to determine if this is even your issue.... I got the impression this was the most common failure for "not heating" issue but not the only cause....and I further got the impression that if it was something else like an electronic component then it was unrepairable.....
If it will still charge a battery then is can be used for that....which is what mine is now......
should you decide to make it a charger.... I would recommend just cutting a large notch where the USB slides in the body shell.....this makes it very easy to gain access to the battery.....mine works great...
Good Luck...... OH one last thing if you had the XP where a small screw secures the switch cap to the actual switch assembly....well that will need to be removed before popping the cap off.....
.......and none of this worked as the fucking led that sticks through the hole at the top Is preventin the chamber from comming out, and the white plastic part is so soft even when i put a socket into it it still manages to ram into the heating chamber, ripping it appart. This really is the worst designed and manufactured product i have ever seen!!!OK so I hope we are talking about a unit is hat is NOT under warranty any longer or Inhalater has told you they will not warranty it for whatever reason.....
The heating chamber slides out of the bottom just like the battery...after you have removed the switch cap and you were careful to lift {opposite the USB} the switch assembly out and let it flop to the outside and remove the battery..... up inside you will see a small spring....the chamber is directly above that...
So now you will need to push that entire white sleeve down and out the bottom....without a cap in it you should be able to see a small white ring {the top of the chamber sleeve} use something like a tool set socket or nut driver that will be able to fit inside the XP outer shell and still get a bite on the white ring...
Now you need to carefully with even pressure slide {push down} the entire white chamber sleeve..it will likely catch the edge at the bottom and hang up a little but it will push past the lip..... once that is out of the body shell you can now see a small circuit board at the base of the sleeve which is where the ribbon cable attaches....this will pop out of the chamber sleeve but I would NOT pull on anything to get it out of the sleeve..... but rather I would again push it out of the sleeve from the inside....maybe use a pencil with a good eraser on it so we don't damage anything...{eraser end down}....
Now you will have the heating chamber removed and be able to see the thicker pins that the chamber actually is soldered to.....
One of my two legs had lost a good connection.... and I had a heck of a time trying to get it to stay soldered......once I did it began to work again......but as I had posted.....be extra careful putting it all back together..... something else happened when I put mine all back together cause it worked 1 more time then that was it....back to the same issue but this time after taking it all apart again....expecting to find that my solder joint had failed again....well it was still good {checked it with Ohm meter}....
Btw if you have an Ohm meter....Greg can tell you what and where to Ohm things out to determine if this is even your issue.... I got the impression this was the most common failure for "not heating" issue but not the only cause....and I further got the impression that if it was something else like an electronic component then it was unrepairable.....
If it will still charge a battery then is can be used for that....which is what mine is now......
should you decide to make it a charger.... I would recommend just cutting a large notch where the USB slides in the body shell.....this makes it very easy to gain access to the battery.....mine works great...
Good Luck...... OH one last thing if you had the XP where a small screw secures the switch cap to the actual switch assembly....well that will need to be removed before popping the cap off.....
Listen I happen to think this design is awesome in particular how they elected to reclaim and make use of heat that otherwise would have been wasted {Hybrid conduction with a convection kicker}...........and none of this worked as the fucking led that sticks through the hole at the top Is preventin the chamber from comming out, and the white plastic part is so soft even when i put a socket into it it still manages to ram into the heating chamber, ripping it appart. This really is the worst designed and manufactured product i have ever seen!!!
I wonder how many other vaporizer you have "seen!!!" or taken apart like this because I felt completely ripped off when I got a peek inside my VB 2.0 DLX design was so weak and I paid so muchjust simply heating it from the bottom just like a PAX it's no wonder you have to keep stirring the damn things..... however this design provides a chamber wrapping around a tube....just look at all that contact surface area....and then they make use of normally wasted heat by warming the incoming air... I immediately fell in love with it and have thus far purchased a total of 6 units....spreading the love...This really is the worst designed and manufactured product i have ever seen!!!
I have been using my XP since July of last year without any issue . It is my favorite portable that I've owned so far . I am worried because I plugged it in around 3:45 pm yesterday , and it is now 7:04 am the following day and the light that indicates it's charging is still on . There's no way it should take that long to charge . Any thoughts on why this might be happening ??