Induction Heaters

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djp1313

Well-Known Member
I have a few heaters that I love, some rechargeable and some plug in wall units. The quickness and convenience is fantastic but I’m thinking they are just too hot.
All of them seem to run at the same temperature. I know using a torch you can stretch out the heating times for a milder more flavorful hit.
With IH it seems any hit after the first and it’s not tasting all that great. I understand either way you have more control with a torch but does anyone know of any tips on how to get consistent decent flavor from using an IH?
It tastes like it’s on the verge of combustion after the first hit. If I go to 3 or 4 hits it’s definitely not tasting good at all. I’m also waiting a few seconds before I pull on it and also waiting a little before heat cycles.
That’s with all my units from a couple different people. I definitely respect the click and pull it out as soon as it clicks.
I clean my DynaVaps on a regular basis so it’s not that. Also the material is of high quality.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
 
djp1313,
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david8613

Well-Known Member
You should try taking it out a little early. I currently picked up a portside mini and noticed it runs a little hotter compared to my lucid customs wall powered induction heater I had.
 
Vaporware

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
Induction heaters can also be adjusted to heat slower, and at least the Fluxer heaters can be adjusted by the user (unless you pay extra for external controls it’s an internal adjustment, but no real technical knowledge required). I’m sure the others can be adjusted too, but I don’t know whether or not there’s a simple way for users to do it...I’d ask the makers about it.

I’m not sure that will solve your problem since I don’t have an induction heater heat, but based on my results with torches and everything I’ve read, I think @TommyDee ’s right that only heating closer to the end of the cap would help, but obviously if you need to insert it fully to trigger the switch, you’d need a spacer or something to still be able to press it down.

...and yes, pulling it out early is also worth a try. :)
 
letter never sent

letter never sent

reckoner
I agree with you. I have a PSM and this has been my experience. It's worse with the Ti Tip because it heats up faster than the stainless steel cap.

Yes, you can take the Vapcap out before the click to combat this, but that takes away from the simplicity and convenience of the device IMO. I want to be able to rely on the click so I don't have to think about it too much.

I heard the new Lucid Customs Apollo may run cooler than other heaters. The creator alluded to this on a Dynavap live stream. Can anyone compare them?
 
D

djp1313

Well-Known Member
letter never sent said:
I agree with you. I have a PSM and this has been my experience. It's worse with the Ti Tip because it heats up faster than the stainless steel cap.

Yes, you can take the Vapcap out before the click to combat this, but that takes away from the simplicity and convenience of the device IMO. I want to be able to rely on the click so I don't have to think about it too much.

I heard the new Lucid Customs Apollo may run cooler than other heaters. The creator alluded to this on a Dynavap live stream. Can anyone compare them?
Click to expand...
I have the bare bones Atlas from Lucid as well as the PSM. They both seem to run at the same temperature.
I tried tonight and it was a little better but I haven’t nailed down the reason.
Could be I’m either packing too tight but I notice if I pack it down a little under the tip it works better than packed even across.
I’m going to try an pack less and see how it goes tomorrow. I’m also thinking my grind size might have something to do with it.
 
D

djp1313

Well-Known Member
djp1313 said:
I have the bare bones Atlas from Lucid as well as the PSM. They both seem to run at the same temperature.
I tried tonight and it was a little better but I haven’t nailed down the reason.
Could be I’m either packing too tight but I notice if I pack it down a little under the tip it works better than packed even across.
I’m going to try an pack less and see how it goes tomorrow. I’m also thinking my grind size might have something to do with it.
Click to expand...
I also gave it more time in between heat ups today and it definitely seemed like a cooler hit.
Yesterday was just a nasty taste like almost combustion.
 
Hackerman

Hackerman

User
All my IH units that use the LARGE wire for a coil are like that. The SJK uses very small wire wrapped many times rather than a LARGE wire wrapped once. I find the heat-up to be TOTALLY different than the large wire IH units I have (I have all 3 of Pipe's and 2 I made myself). They all act about the same except the SJK. It provides a totally different heat-up and give WAY better hits than any of my other units.

Plus, I do have the extra option of placing the VapCap as deep or shallow as I want in the SJK because it uses a proximity switch. All the other units use a tactile switch so you HAVE to use it in the depth that the person who made it decides, not you.

Add the dependability of not having mosfets fail every week and the $50 price and you just can't beat the SJK for price, performance and dependability.

I love my SJK and use it all day, every day.
 
Vaporware

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
@Hackerman Do you know *how* it heats differently? I mean does it heat the cap faster so the tip gets less hot, or is there something else going on?

For people who want portability, I wonder if any of the current builders have experimented with that type of coil...

By the way, the Fluxer heaters that were having all of those mosfet failures seem to have been fixed (there was a miscalculation that was allowing them to be easily overheated), so hopefully that type of failure will not be an ongoing problem for anyone.
 
Vaporware,
Hackerman

Hackerman

User
Fluxer fixed his mosfet problem by going to the same type of switch that is used in the SJK.

I never timed them exactly so I can't say why the SJK heats better or if it's faster or slower. I can only relate it to the tiny wires vs the one big wire is like pouring water out of a jug onto a plant vs pouring water out of a watering can with a sprinkle spout. Very gentle heat-up.

Plus, the coil in the SJK is easily 3 times bigger than the others that are used in everybodies home made units. I'm sure that makes some difference.

I like my SJK so much better that I sold 2 of my Pipe's units and 1 home made to Stark1 and I have a Portside Mini that I am going to sell, also. Unfortunately, like all my Pipe's heaters it died in about a week so it's not working now.

I have also wanted to look at the possibility of making the SJK run on batteries instead of 110v. But, I almost never take my VapCaps out so it's a back burner project.
 
Hackerman,
D

djp1313

Well-Known Member
Hackerman said:
All my IH units that use the LARGE wire for a coil are like that. The SJK uses very small wire wrapped many times rather than a LARGE wire wrapped once. I find the heat-up to be TOTALLY different than the large wire IH units I have (I have all 3 of Pipe's and 2 I made myself). They all act about the same except the SJK. It provides a totally different heat-up and give WAY better hits than any of my other units.

Plus, I do have the extra option of placing the VapCap as deep or shallow as I want in the SJK because it uses a proximity switch. All the other units use a tactile switch so you HAVE to use it in the depth that the person who made it decides, not you.

Add the dependability of not having mosfets fail every week and the $50 price and you just can't beat the SJK for price, performance and dependability.

I love my SJK and use it all day, every day.
Click to expand...
Do you have a link or contact info on the SJK?
 
djp1313,
Hackerman

Hackerman

User
Are you in the USA? They are all over eBay and amazon. Search "dental induction heater" at your favorite shopping site.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dental+induction+heater&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr..._TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=induction+dental

Be advised that they have 2 models, a 110v and a 220v, depending on where you are. And, plan to replace the plug. It's under a dollar and is way better than the converted plug that comes with it. I just cut the end off and replaced it with a plug from Home Depot. 2 screws and no soldering and I was in business. It will work with the stock plug, but I didn't like the cheapo converter.
 
Hackerman,
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djp1313

Well-Known Member
Hackerman said:
Are you in the USA? They are all over eBay and amazon. Search "dental induction heater" at your favorite shopping site.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dental+induction+heater&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr..._TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=induction+dental

Be advised that they have 2 models, a 110v and a 220v, depending on where you are. And, plan to replace the plug. It's under a dollar and is way better than the converted plug that comes with it. I just cut the end off and replaced it with a plug from Home Depot. 2 screws and no soldering and I was in business. It will work with the stock plug, but I didn't like the cheapo converter.
Click to expand...
Thanks
 
djp1313,
gunkleener

gunkleener

Member
Hackerman said:
Are you in the USA? They are all over eBay and amazon. Search "dental induction heater" at your favorite shopping site.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dental+induction+heater&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr..._TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=induction+dental

Be advised that they have 2 models, a 110v and a 220v, depending on where you are. And, plan to replace the plug. It's under a dollar and is way better than the converted plug that comes with it. I just cut the end off and replaced it with a plug from Home Depot. 2 screws and no soldering and I was in business. It will work with the stock plug, but I didn't like the cheapo converter.
Click to expand...
The plug as in the wall plug that plugs into the wall? Link or description of the plug you used please.
 
gunkleener,
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