induction heater diy battery powered

[YellowBossman]

Hi, I want to build a battery powered diy induction heater.
I bought few parts from reading faq-vc induction heater from pipes I think,
but the problem is I don't know anything about wiring or even if the things I bought can power something

Part list
1. zvs induction board
2. xt60 plug baterry -LW 7.4V 3000mah +18650 20c 23D5
3. button
4. mosfet board
5. some wire

I included image of parts I have, please help someone appreciate it

 

[RustyOldNail]

Another thread you may be interested in.

DIY Induction Heater Builds and References

Hi all. So I just finished building my own induction heater using the same design that kent1146 made to make his. I've tried looking at the supplies that were needed and I looked at his pictures on his imgur and his design notes. And even after spending a lot of time looking at his design notes...

fuckcombustion.com

 

[Xapove]

VapOven's documentation is one of the most complete. The "Roll Your Own" section of their website is worth a look!

 

[badbee]

I mean this nicely, but are you sure this project is within your capabilities? What you are missing is a Battery Management System (BMS). You need one of those to control charging and discharging of that battery. It's critically needed for safety. Most people start with a BMS and a battery cradle (just a couple of dollars each) and just buy loose 18650's to put in it. Battery operated IH's are more difficult and complex to build than wall powered units.

The documentation for that battery should specify how to connect it to the BMS. You can use the existing connectors you have or attach new ones. You'll need a soldering iron. Since you choose a 2 cell battery rather than 3 you'll need to adjust the coil to work effectively at that lower voltage, reduce it to 6 or 7 wraps from the current count of 10. The coil should be soldered to the board, they almost always fail when the screw clamp connecters are used. Never apply power without the coil properly connected, that typically results in instant circuit death.

I built several of these but was never entirely happy with them. The Wand from iSpire on the other hand is the perfect IH (for my usage). Good luck with the project.

 

[YellowBossman]

What you are missing is a Battery Management System (BMS). You need one of those to control charging and discharging of that battery. It's critically needed for safety.

The documentation for that battery should specify how to connect it to the BMS. You can use the existing connectors you have or attach new ones. You'll need a soldering iron. Since you choose a 2 cell battery rather than 3 you'll need to adjust the coil to work effectively at that lower voltage, reduce it to 6 or 7 wraps from the current count of 10. The coil should be soldered to the board, they almost always fail when the screw clamp connecters are used. Never apply power without the coil properly connected, that typically results in instant circuit death.

I built several of these but was never entirely happy with them. The Wand from iSpire on the other hand is the perfect IH (for my usage). Good luck with the project.

Thanks . Yeah, the issue is I don't have 100$+ to spend on a IH. I'm trying to build bare bones cheapest available IH for like under $40 or something.
For the charger I'll be using b3 compact charger for drone batteries, as the battery I have is with xt60 plug. here: charger

 

[badbee]

Thanks . Yeah, the issue is I don't have 100$+ to spend on a IH. I'm trying to build bare bones cheapest available IH for like under $40 or something.
For the charger I'll be using b3 compact charger for drone batteries, as the battery I have is with xt60 plug. here: charger

I don't know anything about that charger but will assume it has the charging aspect covered. You should still have a BMS to protect the battery from short circuit scenarios and over-discharge. Letting the battery go below 6.5 V will stress and prematurely age it, going below 5.0 V can kill it. A 2S BMS goes for as little as a dollar on eBay and AliExpress. Otherwise it looks like you are good to go.

 

[DeadRabb1t]

Unregulated IH is a novel approach

I second the please get a BMS

Having messed up and shorted 18650's myself I would be worried about a 2 cell lipo without short-circuit or undervoltage protections

 

[YellowBossman]

should I get 2s or 3s bms then ?

 

[badbee]

should I get 2s or 3s bms then ?

It has to match the battery, 2S in this case. If you aren't familiar with the lingo 2S stands for 2 cells in series. You can tell the cells are in series from the 7.4 V output (each Li Ion cell is 3.7 nominal voltage).

 

[YellowBossman]

It has to match the battery, 2S in this case. If you aren't familiar with the lingo 2S stands for 2 cells in series. You can tell the cells are in series from the 7.4 V output (each Li Ion cell is 3.7 nominal voltage).

ok, thanks for replying. Does the version matter?
there is standard version and balanced version.

There's a lot to choose from I don't know which one to get.
I found 2s 7.4V, and there's 3A 5A 8A 20A. Is the letter A important? thanks

 

[NutBall]

Is the letter A important? thanks

Don't do this if you are seriously asking that question

 

[RustyOldNail]

Before you finish the project, Consider buying some of these FIRST:

18650 Battery Safety

The shop don't sell VTC5A but VTC6 I bought them from vapoclope.fr and they send they would send me a return label and exchange them for any of their battery. I know. I bought them because of all the good reviews of happy users like you but I got bad ones for sure. Thankfully Vapoclope CS...

fuckcombustion.com

 

[badbee]

ok, thanks for replying. Does the version matter?
there is standard version and balanced version.

There's a lot to choose from I don't know which one to get.
I found 2s 7.4V, and there's 3A 5A 8A 20A. Is the letter A important? thanks

Normally a balanced BMS is recommended but that doesn't apply here since you are planning to charge with that RC charger that has balancing built in. Balancing only applies to charging, it ensures that current flow into each cell is managed independently to charge each one to it's maximum. The A stands for "Amperage" and is the maximum safe value, you need one with a max value higher than what your board will pull. 8 A might be just high enough but I would go with > 10 (the specs for electronics are for the "best case" scenarios, always assume your scenario is not best case).

 

[YellowBossman]

8 A might be just high enough but I would go with > 10

this will work?
8A-15A peak max

 

[badbee]

this will work?
8A-15A peak max

That's just barely in the acceptable range, but would likely be fine. You can ignore the "peak" value, what matters is the continuous max, which is 8 A in this case.

 

[Gotobuuy]

when will you start to do it,remember make a video and share here.Thanks