Discontinued Imp by MistVape

mistvaporizer

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I wonder if we will be getting some custom Escribe settings for the Imp from @HerbieVonVapster at some point. ;)

Interesting device was away when this one was released. I just read thru the whole tread to catchup on this one.

Haven't bought a new vaporizer in awhile and since I haven't tried a mistvape product so this one is tempting me. Just not much of a micro dose kind of user.


On adding it to FCshare that would be up to @mistvaporizer. I would need to ask his permission before I would agree to post it as a FCshare file.
 

fbustion

New Member
Good questions!
The brass will be plated in production units (betas will be silver plated, eventually I'd like to gold plate them). That should take care of oxidation issues.
All brass will be lead free.
Center pin is not adjustable. The length I'll have to work out, currently it is set up for the evic vtwo mini.
The brass male part has a ceramic tube that insulates the center pin from the brass male tube.
The brass tube threads into the brass connector on the deck to hold it in, there is an external jam nut that locks it together. The central bolt goes through the ceramic tube and threads into the other brass connector.
There is an external peek washer the locks the connector in place.
I am using arctic fox in vw mode. I loaded tubo firmware but didn't get good results in TC but I'm not that familiar with TC settings. Being impatient I just went back to arctic fox. Hoping someone who knows TC can try it out.

Is there such a thing as C260 lead free? I've only ever seen <0.07% which is admittedly small but not lead free
 
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Sativapo

Well-Known Member
Got it working well on Arctic Fox with the primo mini with the TCR settings given by @paytonpen. It works almost as well as Tubo firmware . 15 sec cut off time is enough. Couldn't install sur_myevic.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
I've been quiet for a long while and I'm still lacking time to make my review. But in short: I'm giving my green light. Improvements are already being added with every version so I feel it's safe to recommend the Imp at this point.

:tup:

It compares positively to the Project Pure SF and is better on several very important fronts (namely ease of getting vapor and density, as well as battery efficiency)

It's perhaps less dense than the iHeat but in exchange it's way less harsh, vapor is cooler, and it doesn't seem to have any real uneven browning tendency (aka hotspots) but that's true with all 14mm systems I tested so far. You do get unevenness on the bowl depth axis though if you don't microdose, as the bowl ends up being a long cylinder rather than a puck, so you need to flip it once mid-session.

Cooling stem does work pretty well but will probably be harder to reclaim from than standard stems, that was expected. It's also a bit less stealthy as the balls attract attention a little. Apart from that it's pretty good, get it if you can.

I wish it was 23mm wide to fit into SBS mods for even more stealthiness but it's already way less suspicious than the iHeat or Splinter (yet it still looks a bit like a walkie talkie with its "antenna"...)

At first I had very mixed results when trying it in power mode. First session was nice at only 12W. Then I tried 8W and 10W for the second one and it was super disappointing, taste was spoiled super fast for some reason. Third session was horrible... at this point I didn't know what to think. Then 4th session was using TC and not even with fine-tuned settings (PI mode on AF enabled though but with rather crude coeffs)

It packs a surprising amount of punch and you can draw rather hard on it and get really good hits. I can even use it while walking and that's something I can't do with the Project Pure SF or the Nomad. I never need more than 10 seconds draw, I think everybody should be good with 15 seconds, excepted through water maybe (but you can always retrigger or use another firmware)

I recently broke my iHeat shell so the Imp replaced it on my evic VTC mini and has seen nearly daily use since that day. As for the downsides: it's probably fragile, at least it looks like it is. It also has exposed wood like the original iHeat and that could be solved by using a mirror finish SS foil around the heater, applied to the shell itself. That would improve efficiency by allowing IR and some other wavelengths to bounce back and have more chance to transfer energy to the air.

A second o-ring could help for strength too. No need to cut two grooves, just two o-rings side by side in a single wider groove maybe?

But that's it for now, more testing needed. Yet a very positive impression in the end. Good job Dave!
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
I've been quiet for a long while and I'm still lacking time to make my review. But in short: I'm giving my green light. Improvements are already being added with every version so I feel it's safe to recommend the Imp at this point.

:tup:

It compares positively to the Project Pure SF and is better on several very important fronts (namely ease of getting vapor and density, as well as battery efficiency)

It's perhaps less dense than the iHeat but in exchange it's way less harsh, vapor is cooler, and it doesn't seem to have any real uneven browning tendency (aka hotspots) but that's true with all 14mm systems I tested so far. You do get unevenness on the bowl depth axis though if you don't microdose, as the bowl ends up being a long cylinder rather than a puck, so you need to flip it once mid-session.

Cooling stem does work pretty well but will probably be harder to reclaim from than standard stems, that was expected. It's also a bit less stealthy as the balls attract attention a little. Apart from that it's pretty good, get it if you can.

I wish it was 23mm wide to fit into SBS mods for even more stealthiness but it's already way less suspicious than the iHeat or Splinter (yet it still looks a bit like a walkie talkie with its "antenna"...)

At first I had very mixed results when trying it in power mode. First session was nice at only 12W. Then I tried 8W and 10W for the second one and it was super disappointing, taste was spoiled super fast for some reason. Third session was horrible... at this point I didn't know what to think. Then 4th session was using TC and not even with fine-tuned settings (PI mode on AF enabled though but with rather crude coeffs)

It packs a surprising amount of punch and you can draw rather hard on it and get really good hits. I can even use it while walking and that's something I can't do with the Project Pure SF or the Nomad. I never need more than 10 seconds draw, I think everybody should be good with 15 seconds, excepted through water maybe (but you can always retrigger or use another firmware)

I recently broke my iHeat shell so the Imp replaced it on my evic VTC mini and has seen nearly daily use since that day. As for the downsides: it's probably fragile, at least it looks like it is. It also has exposed wood like the original iHeat and that could be solved by using a mirror finish SS foil around the heater, applied to the shell itself. That would improve efficiency by allowing IR and some other wavelengths to bounce back and have more chance to transfer energy to the air.

A second o-ring could help for strength too. No need to cut two grooves, just two o-rings side by side in a single wider groove maybe?

But that's it for now, more testing needed. Yet a very positive impression in the end. Good job Dave!
Thanks for the thoughtful, detailed review. I've been stalking this thread and I'm more interested than ever now. If my Lil Bud is any indication I should perhaps wait for Dave to take that foil suggestion. I've bought two Lil Buds one before and one after he added a foil surround and it improved performance for me.
 

Sativapo

Well-Known Member
I recently broke my iHeat shell so the Imp replaced it on my evic VTC mini and has seen nearly daily use since that day. As for the downsides: it's probably fragile, at least it looks like it is. It also has exposed wood like the original iHeat and that could be solved by using a mirror finish SS foil around the heater, applied to the shell itself. That would improve efficiency by allowing IR and some other wavelengths to bounce back and have more chance to transfer energy to the air.

A second o-ring could help for strength too. No need to cut two grooves, just two o-rings side by side in a single wider groove maybe?
For the foil do you have any link or specifications available ? Because the maple inside of my cover has darkened a bit near the coils. I wonder if it's easy to apply and fix. If performance gets better than it already is, it's only a plus...

Sounds like a nice idea for the o-rings because I wondered how he could add a second groove in such a tiny place. Never saw 2 o-rings in a single groove in any device though...
 

mistvaporizer

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Going to try the side by side O ring. I've been looking at making a change to the rings and have tried a few things but nothing has looked better.
As far as metal or foil liners I'll think about it. When i used a SS liner on a different style vape the wood still got toasted.
 

Sativapo

Well-Known Member
Maybe that mirror finish of the SS he's talking about repels more (absorbs less) the heat ? Idk...
 
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GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Why would he raise resistance to 0.412? as i see almost everybody got 0.25 resistance max by default, also another reviewers, are set the resistance to 0.25~
What raising the resistance gives? (Can't check now myself, I broke my mod)


And he got some pretty hits..
 
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Sativapo

Well-Known Member
I took his TCR and watt settings, not the resistance. I guessed his resistance was just higher. mine is around 0.22 Even if you add 0.01 (like explained in mistvapes instructions) it has an impact, I guess adding 0.2 would really mess things up.
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
I took his TCR and watt settings, not the resistance. I guessed his resistance was just higher. mine is around 2.15. Even if you add 0.01 it has an impact, I guess adding 0.2 would really mess things up.
and it works well? with tcr 190 32watts?
 
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Sativapo

Well-Known Member
Yes I put 37 watts finally, but it worked, a bit slower, with 32. I tuned it adding or cuting 0.01 in resistance. There was a mistake in what you quoted from me I did some editing in the original post.
 
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Improvaper

Well-Known Member
Just a tip for those unfamiliar with box mods:

If you're trying to get TCR going on-demand, you're probably missing the point. I certainly was this whole time trying to get to know my Imp. Just go straight power mode if you want an on-demand hit. At whatever strength you like but I find 28-32 watts to be controllable between light and flavorful and strong as hell depending on draw speed.

But if you intend to do more than one hit... even just 2 or 3... you owe it to yourself to check out TCR cruise mode with mods that support it. It's actually more efficient, battery-wise, than on-demand-button usage for >1-hit sessions even if you wait a minute or so between hits. And it really develops a strong flavorful vapor that is great for one or two people in a session format. My wife and I have been sharing a long stem with a short pack (maybe .1g) that goes for 5-6 really large hits each in about 5 minutes that certainly does the trick. Try it if you haven't yet. It's a surprisingly good session vape for how small it is!
 

Improvaper

Well-Known Member
My wife holds it it too much between hits in session mode. that pieces me off. Like when she was sleeping on js.

Haha, I know that person. Just set your cruise for a shorter timeout.

You'll still win on battery overall, I'll bet, unless you guys space out your hits literally 5-10 minutes. Not sure exactly where the threshold would be where one mode is more efficient than the other. But it seems it's like what cruise control does to the mileage on your car.

I've been eeking out what I can from some truly crap batteries I got on Amazon waiting for some real ones to arrive from IMR and I can tell a big difference using cruise.
 

Sativapo

Well-Known Member
I am having the same discussion on another topic on 510 convection. I Think it still makes sense to use TC for on demand vs wattage as it's really usefull to set it at a temp you're sure you wont combust or that you will have low temp effects and rip it no limit it without being carefull for overheating.
Edit : @KeroZen yeah I thought the same thing about charring the shell and cruise mode if used too often. Not so much for health (I smoked in wooden pipes so many times, which is uncomparable) than degrading the device.
 
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mistvaporizer

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
I don't use cruise mainly because one use fried his coils in cruise. Didn't realize he was"on" and when he did it was too late.
For experienced users who pay attention i guess it's fine. But after a couple good hits who can pay attention.
In tcr i find it is essentially on demand and I'm happy with the performance.
 

Improvaper

Well-Known Member
Was that user in temp control or wattage mode? There is an auto shut-off timer when cruising. You should set it for as short as you usually do a session. Also, I find I can use lower temperatures in cruise mode. I can get decent vapor even at 310 and no glowing at all.
 
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