idea for heating element
- Thread starter asdf420
- Start date
Me thinks it's a very good idea .
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Would be hard to regulate the temperature though. Also hard to shove a temp sensor in there without having the wires touch anything (also what effect would the magnetic field have on the sensor is unclear but it would probably mess with the readings)
Since hot metal will be in the air/vapor path anyway, I'm unsure what advantage it would have over directly heating a SS element. But interesting idea nonetheless. If you have good arguments I'm all ears!
Since hot metal will be in the air/vapor path anyway, I'm unsure what advantage it would have over directly heating a SS element. But interesting idea nonetheless. If you have good arguments I'm all ears!
btka
Well-Known Member
the glass symphony vape is sounding similar but it uses glass beads... Glass Symphony XLR
Is there an SS element that'd be simpler and similarly high surface area? maybe like the iHeat? Or resistance heating could be used instead, or a cartridge heater like with the Glass Symphony? Hopefully the steel would have enough heat capacity and the element enough surface area that it'd be unnecessary to regulate the temperature much.
what if the sensor was right after the heating element on the airpath?
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btka
Well-Known Member
to be honest if the sensor would be in the bowl or short before the bowl it would be the best in my opinion and most accurate ... but then you would need a heater that can quickly change heat to adapt to your drawing speed, ambient air and so on.. so the heat of the air which passes your bowl/herbs is always constant.. important is the temp of the air which passes your herb not the temp of heating element ... but think this is technically hard to achieve...
well, i was hoping this could be kind of like the supreme which just has a very long air-heating path and very high surface area. i imagine that as surface area of a heater increases, the heating element and air-through-herb temps should get closer regardless of draw speed. but this is all conjecture
Since this is SS and not aluminum, the heat capacity should be higher, but conductivity lower? dunno exactly how that would affect things
guess I won't know until i try
Since this is SS and not aluminum, the heat capacity should be higher, but conductivity lower? dunno exactly how that would affect things
guess I won't know until i try
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blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Thing to consider first maybe is, what kind of vape you want to build? What's the bowl size and material you're going for and how much herb can it hold? How far away from the heater is the bowl?
For a log vape for instance, that uses a tiny stainless steel bowl < 10mm, a cartridge heater or resistor in the 20ohm vicinity and with a surface area resulting from a mere 6mm x 20mm diameter set into a < 10mm steel tube, is already enough to heat up the air passing to about 230°C at 12V/7W and gives you huge clouds. Anything more powerful, will result in combustion.
Set that same tiny cartridge heater into a wider enclosure (maybe an 18mm female tapered glass joint, like in the splinter/iHeat) for heating up a bowl twice that size in diameter and all you'll get is a whiff of hot air but no clouds. You want a more powerful heater there with a wider surface area to get the same results.
Then there is the question of pre heat time and usage.
Given ideal conditions, the 20ohm/7W cartridge in a log vape needs 5-7 minutes to reach usable temps for vaping. Ok for a plug-in/desktop vape, but no use for a portable, where you want it going within seconds to maybe one minute tops and also won't have it running several hours, but only for minutes at a time. So a portable log vape following otherwise the same design with the tiny ss bowl and all, wouldn't be helped with a higher surface area heater there, but rather one of the same surface area, but of a lower resistance, capable of churning out more watts at the same or even lesser voltage, to speed up pre heat time and be ready to use (for my own DIY portable, I use a 3,66ohm/40W cartridge there, driving it at 10V, producing about 25W of power).
So an 'one size fits all' approach to the heater might be difficult in general. And just thinking of the size... 6" x 1" would be a really fat bugger indeed. Heater bigger, than me whole log, wood and all
For a log vape for instance, that uses a tiny stainless steel bowl < 10mm, a cartridge heater or resistor in the 20ohm vicinity and with a surface area resulting from a mere 6mm x 20mm diameter set into a < 10mm steel tube, is already enough to heat up the air passing to about 230°C at 12V/7W and gives you huge clouds. Anything more powerful, will result in combustion.
Set that same tiny cartridge heater into a wider enclosure (maybe an 18mm female tapered glass joint, like in the splinter/iHeat) for heating up a bowl twice that size in diameter and all you'll get is a whiff of hot air but no clouds. You want a more powerful heater there with a wider surface area to get the same results.
Then there is the question of pre heat time and usage.
Given ideal conditions, the 20ohm/7W cartridge in a log vape needs 5-7 minutes to reach usable temps for vaping. Ok for a plug-in/desktop vape, but no use for a portable, where you want it going within seconds to maybe one minute tops and also won't have it running several hours, but only for minutes at a time. So a portable log vape following otherwise the same design with the tiny ss bowl and all, wouldn't be helped with a higher surface area heater there, but rather one of the same surface area, but of a lower resistance, capable of churning out more watts at the same or even lesser voltage, to speed up pre heat time and be ready to use (for my own DIY portable, I use a 3,66ohm/40W cartridge there, driving it at 10V, producing about 25W of power).
So an 'one size fits all' approach to the heater might be difficult in general. And just thinking of the size... 6" x 1" would be a really fat bugger indeed. Heater bigger, than me whole log, wood and all
cheapo supreme wannabe, 16mm tube stem or 18mm tapered, glass or wood. so up to 0.5g of herb? but i'm hoping it'd work well with small doses, too
the bowl might be up to 1" from the heater? i dunno. i just wanna lay here and imagine how to make it rather than actually do it
what's the harm in overkilling the surface area? could just heat the heater less, might be more forgiving of draw speed? more conjecture
thinking i could put this on top of a d020-d
the bowl might be up to 1" from the heater? i dunno. i just wanna lay here and imagine how to make it rather than actually do it
what's the harm in overkilling the surface area? could just heat the heater less, might be more forgiving of draw speed? more conjecture
thinking i could put this on top of a d020-d
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ChooChooCharlie
Well-Known Member
Cool idea I never thought of using steel balls, look into glass beads they are excellent IMO for vape use.
In my Project A heater I'm using a SS wire coil wrapped around a glass rod and then surrounded by the glass balls
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
How about a heater made out of 19 awg SS wire with glass beads on it.I would call it a Neckless style heater,lol.. For the purpose one will need beads with hole of course. The VapBong heater( The electric one ,not the vaponics old version) is made with nichrome wire and beads and looks like it works like a charm
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