I have a seriously wild idea...

[Tinkerer]

It would definitely be one where it would need a minute to warm up. I dont know how well vapor production would be, but the hits would probably be pretty nice.

Cleaning would be easy. Swish some alcohol through the bulb.

My biggest concern would be extraction speed. If its rotating, will it be able to do a nice smooth hit, or will you only get a small whisp? If you manage to get a nice hit, do you have to wait for it to roast a few more minutes?

Also with changing out the herb. Gotta let it cool down or you'll burn the crap out of yourself. Maybe add a fan to do a "rapid cool" for changing?

Def a challenge. Might be able to make a cheap prototype for around 30ish. Mostly that low because I've already got most of the parts. Just need a motor for the rotation.

Edit to add: I've got some sketches I did last night. I'll post up a pic when I get home.

 

[TommyDee]

Sweet... indeed, I see the rotation velocity to be quite slow. The idea is more to 'remove the heat before the hot spot develops'. The 'zone' temperature will be elevated. However, the gradient between surface and air temps will be quite high.

I too am very curious as to how fast this can produce vape. I'm thinking everyone gets that tasty initial trichome draw with a big enough chamber load. The thinner the glass, the faster the warm-up.

I have an Arduino setup, a gear-reduced stepper, and the current thinking on "show" is an exposed worm gear setup eventually carved from wood and stylized. this is easily made with a 3D print design for the prototype. That is my first effort to get this done for a prototype. The motor is a 28BYJ-48 and an appropriate driver like an 2PH85309A. I'm getting really good torque out of this little setup.

I do have a couple of important elements worked out. Cooling the 'flask' is one obviously. That is one reason for considering an aperture on the heater unit, something like an iris, to reduce the heat-affected-zone. The best of all worlds here is if the chamber temp can remain a nice constant low temp. A bubbler is almost a must... not for the anticipated warmth, but for the completion of bling. I don't really know how vapers feel about bubblers as filters. This element needs to be well integrated. It also affects the overall draw pressure that must be managed at the rotating junction.

 

[Tinkerer]

I was thinking of using an 18650 mod for heat. Stainless steel coils would be perfect since it wont be in the airway. Basically turn it into a big tubo evic. Something with 2 or 3 batteries that can run custom firmware. The stempod has the weird notch coils that would be really easy to install ~ even as a replaceable part. Only thing would be figuring out what temp it's actually at when you set it at "X" degrees.

Btw, what site should be used for pictures? I see so many threads with dead links...

 

[TommyDee]

I like your thinking in 'on-board' power. That does scale things a bit on many levels.

I haven't thought about where to host images yet. I think I read you need 50 posts before posting an image and I just reached that. Not looking forward to yet another site to spam the hell out of me.

What 'style' are you envisioning? Compact; carry around; desktop unit; Rude Goldberg; bling'd; steampunk; fur and chrome; ... okay, getting carried away. I'm thinking "Trophy-shelf Top Dog Party Contraption generating enough intrigue to want a closer look but would be afraid to touch without permission." kinda thing.

 

[Tinkerer]

Definitely looking at desktop. The bones of it would be shaped like a sideways L. The bulb would just be set on top; sitting at a 45(ish)° angle. The base of the bulb would rotate directly over the coils. My rotation would come from the collar that the neck of the bulb rests on

~~~~~~~

Imma try and find a way to link a photo real quick. So much easier to explain with a picture lmao

Edit: does this work? https://imgur.com/a/MfWurw5

 

[TommyDee]

A Lazy L That could provide for a handle...

One critical design element is the direct 'carb' fed air injection into the chamber.

 

[Tinkerer]

A Lazy L That could provide for a handle...

One critical design element is the direct 'carb' fed air injection into the chamber.

I legit guessed on how that would work lol. Change size? Length? Scrap completely?

 

[TommyDee]

Oh no, that's a target style. Getting a Disney vibe... cauldrons and things.

 

[Tinkerer]

So wait, I'm confused, is the design good then?

I'm also only working on the basic frame for now. Once I can get a proof of concept up and running I'll worry about making it look pretty lol. Definitely thinking wood body. Gotta find somewhere to put the batteries and screen. Neither of those should be too crazy though.

 

[TommyDee]

It is as good as any at this point. I like the "Lazy-L" branding.

 

[Tinkerer]

My bad, I saw

One critical design element is the direct 'carb' fed air injection into the chamber.

and thought you meant it was bad in some way lol. Definitely going to have to mess with the size of the intake and draw holes.

I want this to have a nice gentle pull. I think with bringing in fresh air to mix, itll have a super smooth, warm, hit. Could probably incorporate a simple bubbler into it as well. The possibilities are endless!!

 

[TommyDee]

Easy-breather is also a must. That is why I tend to scale a bubbler on the smaller side. But I do see the bubbler needing to be well incorporated to fit with the 'theme'.

 

[Tinkerer]

Well, 3 broken lightbulbs later... I'm half tempted to order the cheapest possible globe from dhgate. I was stupidly clumsy with the first. Shattered the second. And the third fissure cracked all the way around. Now I only have LEDs left.

Might see what the local gas station has.

 

[TommyDee]

Okay, technique may be required. 'Gently' break out the stem by rocking it after bustin' out the purple glass bit. The screw-in-metal-part is needed for support and remains in place. That's pretty much where I stopped in a past life.

You could take a flame to the epoxy and see if it will soften up for removal. Then, with luck, you could get a flame edge on the broken edge without the whole thing going poof. Then again, would a diamond cutoff wheel on a Dremel work on a bulb?

 

[Tinkerer]

Okay, technique may be required. 'Gently' break out the stem by rocking it after bustin' out the purple glass bit. The screw-in-metal-part is needed for support and remains in place.

Im gonna need a picture or something of this lol. Or, what brand/ type of bulb? I have to use a diamond bit because the whole body is glass. 100% sealed. I'll look for dollar store level bulbs and hit a gas station tomorrow. Something to keep me from having to cut anythin .

 

[TommyDee]

Ah... where the stem is inserted into the outer bulb, there is normally an 1/8" or so diameter recess maybe 1/4" deep (reaching far back into damaged gray matter here!)... Anyway, you wrestle that around (rock back and forth with a screwdriver, for instance) and it will break nicely at the ridge just outside this pocket.

 

[Tinkerer]

Ah... where the stem is inserted into the outer bulb, there is normally an 1/8" or so diameter recess maybe 1/4" deep (reaching far back into damaged gray matter here!)... Anyway, you wrestle that around (rock back and forth with a screwdriver, for instance) and it will break nicely at the ridge just outside this pocket.

I legit want to know what bulbs you have. These sound super weird lol

 

[TommyDee]

LOL... good 'ol fashion kind that I know of. I seem to replace the bulb in my outside light about one every 3 months. Next time I will photograph it.

Basically, they are normal bulbs with the brass plate with a wire soldered to it. You peel that away and you have a purply-blue glass, sometime with a crimson hue, that has a hole in the middle for the wire. You chip away at that blue glass until it is gone. A small jeweler's screw driver usually makes quick work of that glass. Wear eye safety goggles. Once you have these two cleared out of the way, you are staring at the other wire to the screw-in part of the bulb. The stalk in the center has to be busted out but pushing isn't going to do it. You have to 'bend' it to break it.

Ha! Insane.... I knew someone would have posted this up LOL

 

[Tinkerer]

That link was amazing. Thank you!

Heat up time with 510 coils is def over 45 seconds. And that was stationary with red hot glow; no rotation. Might need to look into getting the 510 tester things like this: https://images.app.goo.gl/HBmAjTt1qk7zAd1fA and just gut the hell out of it.

Or maybe get SS mesh and make a cradle so it actually touches the glass?

 

[TommyDee]

Now that's a cool gadget! I was originally thinking 'overkill' on the heat by using heat gun innards with a much smaller and slower fan. This thing should be producing vapor faster than on can get their mouth situated on the mouth piece. Damn the watts

Oh, and maybe a popcorn popper heat source would be even nicer to implement on the prototype. Not quite as much heat but certainly more appropriate components.

 

[TommyDee]

Seems someone's been lurking this thread
https://www.alchimiaweb.com/en/vapo-2-vaporizer-product-1007.php

 

[weedidas]

Oh, and, don't use a light bulb as a vape.

Why not? Lightbulbs are made of Soda-lime glass, is there's something wrong with that?

 

[TommyDee]

Not at all.