how to use Kanger tanks for "dabbing" essential oils

[2clicker]

so one day when taking apart a Kanger ProTank coil head it hit me that when the top tube part is removed from the head, that it sure looks a helluva a lot like all those ceramic cup atomizers out there. except SS. atomizers like BHOLT or those glass globe attys for example. anyway, i was curious about it because i am not a fan of the post configuration on the RDAs available. i also liked the idea that i could see the cloud production from each pull thanks to the glass of the tank. my first attempt was a 2.2ohm stock kanger ProTank coil. i loaded up a decent dab and it performed very well. i was stoked at this point, but had to switch the silica to ceramic. as of now this is my favorite way to vape EO.

below is a sequence showing the coil head and how to prepare if for dabbing. these pics show a dual coil Kanger ProTank head, but its the same head as the reg PT head, but its got a longer "cup". when installing the head into the base just screw it in like normal. then use a little leverage and pop the top tube part off the head. this will expose the coil/wick.

the next pics are of the coil i built today. you can see the coil sitting inside the "cup" when the top part has been removed.

<--- way off topic,but can you see the oring in this pic? i keep this oring inside the eGo well and just install the ProTank over it. if/when running this rig through glass the oring comes out and gets put onto the mouth piece to provide a good seal when using glass.

here is a shot of the coil on the meter. i have since rebuilt that one and its reading at 2.25ohms. and its working great.

this last pic is of my reuild kit. just thought i would add it. keeps all this stuff together well.

so thats basically it. you can use the stock coil/wick if you want or you can rebuild these with your favorite wire/wick combo. this works for any tank using the ProTank and Evod coil heads if im not mistaken. i suggest all who have the means give it a shot.

 

[DabComa]

I haven't been able to get the same success out of my pt3 as I have with my Igo-w in hit quality and longevity of product, any suggestion? I like the idea but just can't seem to get the same glass rig ripping hits that I do from my Igo on the pt3... I only have single coil attys, think the dual makes the difference? I've tried the regular coil in it 2.5 ohms and rebuilt various resistance 28 gauge coils and just never get as good production vape wise as compared to a glass globe atty. Maybe smaller gauge wire us better?
I'm curious if you modified the air intake at all, on my pt3 I redrilled the three existing holes on the bottom atty housing to 1/8 I think it was but noticed that when the atty is screwed in tight it covers those holes almost completely before it's even in a mod or battery, restricting the airflow to what can squeeze through the threadings, I think to remedy this I may try drilling the holes again the same size but with the atty in the housing this time. This would obviously need to be done with each different atty unless you changed the coil in the original one when needed, but would garuntee that when the atty is screwed into the housing the air holes would be lined up prefect and would be greatly increased, I'll have to report back on my findings later.
I do like the idea since the attys are cheap and not too difficult to rebuild, but it's very important if you rebuild them to make sure the resistance is stable with an ohm meter, because it's very easy for kanthal to protrude through the rubber grommet resulting in shorts or resistance fluctuations, putting unnecessary and unsafe strain on your battery.

 

[Haywood]

@2clicker, can you explain to me what the advantage is to using a clearo (tank based) setup for non-liquid concentrates over just using an atty or an atty with a glass globe? I feel like I must be missing something here.

My mPT3's have been bouncing back and forth between two USPS depots all weekend. It'll be a miracle if they deliver them Monday... sigh. btw, did you boil your ceramic wick or not? And nice pictures; it looks like you switched to 30 or 32 gauge kanthal from the 28. If so, have you found that your hits are less harsh with the 2.xΩ loads?

 

[2clicker]

@2clicker, can you explain to me what the advantage is to using a clearo (tank based) setup for non-liquid concentrates over just using an atty or an atty with a glass globe? I feel like I must be missing something here.

My mPT3's have been bouncing back and forth between two USPS depots all weekend. It'll be a miracle if they deliver them Monday... sigh. btw, did you boil your ceramic wick or not? And nice pictures; it looks like you switched to 30 or 32 gauge kanthal from the 28. If so, have you found that your hits are less harsh with the 2.xΩ loads?

the advantage over a standard RDA like an IGO-W is that the coil heads provide a "cup" of SS similar the the ceramic cups you see in the BHOLT attys or glass globe attys. i like my IGO-L, but prefer to have a "cup" for the coil to sit in. this provides easier loading and easier maint overall. another advantage is the glass. when using my old BHOLT stuff i would often use the glass tube that came with it. this allows you to see the vapor building up inside so you know what you are in store for. kanger tanks provide this as well. this is a plus for me. not to mention they look like every other tank others use for eliquid.

why use it over a glass globe or other similar ceramic cup atty? well simply because i can rebuild it and not have to buy a new atomizer every time. big advantage there IMO.

no i never boiled it, but still thinking about it. i give them a nice torching before use. these wicks taste amazing. adds zero flavor from what i can tell. and yes i have switched to using 32 gauge kanthal. i went smaller so that i can achieve the 1.8-2.5ohm coils im after. at first i thought this was too much resistance, but after trying a stock 2.2ohm coil for oils, and it working beautifully, i knew it was the right resistance for my and my application. im not looking to load a dab up and rip it all at once (well not usually). i prefer to load a decent size dab onto the coil and getting 4-8 pulls off of it. then reload if needed. oh and yes since switching to a higher resistance the hits are much smoother.

advantages: cup, glass, rebuildable
disadvantage: you gotta have coil heads to rebuild (non issue really)

I haven't been able to get the same success out of my pt3 as I have with my Igo-w in hit quality and longevity of product, any suggestion? I like the idea but just can't seem to get the same glass rig ripping hits that I do from my Igo on the pt3... I only have single coil attys, think the dual makes the difference? I've tried the regular coil in it 2.5 ohms and rebuilt various resistance 28 gauge coils and just never get as good production vape wise as compared to a glass globe atty. Maybe smaller gauge wire us better?
I'm curious if you modified the air intake at all, on my pt3 I redrilled the three existing holes on the bottom atty housing to 1/8 I think it was but noticed that when the atty is screwed in tight it covers those holes almost completely before it's even in a mod or battery, restricting the airflow to what can squeeze through the threadings, I think to remedy this I may try drilling the holes again the same size but with the atty in the housing this time. This would obviously need to be done with each different atty unless you changed the coil in the original one when needed, but would garuntee that when the atty is screwed into the housing the air holes would be lined up prefect and would be greatly increased, I'll have to report back on my findings later.
I do like the idea since the attys are cheap and not too difficult to rebuild, but it's very important if you rebuild them to make sure the resistance is stable with an ohm meter, because it's very easy for kanthal to protrude through the rubber grommet resulting in shorts or resistance fluctuations, putting unnecessary and unsafe strain on your battery.

i should have been more specific about the coil heads im using. the double coil in the pic above was the only coil head i had clean at the time for the pics. i am using the single coil kanger heads in the application. i havent tried a dual coil, but im sure it would still work. so no, its not because you have tried the single coils and im using the doubles (im not)... i am not sure why your experience has been so different.

i feel the smaller gauge wire does make for a nicer vape, but only because its resistance is higher. this allows me let it fire longer w/out getting way too hot or burning. and yes i have found the 2.2ohm coil i built to be WAY better in the harshness dept. also, because it takes a sec longer to heat up i find that i am getting the best tasting hits from any configuration ive tried yet.

no i did not modify the air intake at all. the only "mods" here are removing the top tube of the head and building my own coils. everything else is stock.

i have been pretty careful checking each coil before use making sure i know its rating. is there a specific way to do this? i have gone back to using my efest 650mah 18350s with my 2-2.5ohm coils considering i was using them with 1.8-2.2ohm stock kanger coils w/ no problems. i assume this is ok.


so i will be ordering a full size aerotank next and will update the thread with pics. its basically the same, but worth pics IMO. im very excited about the adjustable airflow. interested in toying with that.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Thanks Dude ! A friend thinkered smth like that for me from an old Kanger cart.. having said my previous oil experience was with a g-pen... (it sucked) this is totally awesome.. i cannot comment on taste since i tried it with some reclaim but it is nowhere the gpen farts..

 

[2clicker]

@Abysmal Vapor, yeah i bet this is a step up.

i really like using my PTs this way, but i am still playing with dif coils in RDAs. so far tho i prefer the kanger route.

 

[DabComa]

I still cant seem to get good airflow through mine, even using stock carts de-chimnyed (yes i just made that up) its like trying to suck through a clogged straw, and the hits are whispy and i only get 1 per pack generally, not ideal whatsoever in my case at least. I guess i got some more tinkering to do, will report back

 

[2clicker]

I still cant seem to get good airflow through mine, even using stock carts de-chimnyed (yes i just made that up) its like trying to suck through a clogged straw, and the hits are whispy and i only get 1 per pack generally, not ideal whatsoever in my case at least. I guess i got some more tinkering to do, will report back

can u post a pic of the dabs u are loading? do u have the same airflow issues with a brand new unloaded wick?

i have no idea why using it this way would clog airflow unless your dab is melting off your coil and going under the coil and partially blocking the air hole. after about a half gram through my coil/head and there is zero oil getting into the hole.

are you loading multiple dabs at once?

 

[DabComa]

No nothing is leaking contrary to my thoughts that hasn't been an issue I just put enough in to cover the area of the "cup" then prime it into the wick and go, after it's primed it's mostly soaked in the wick, and not obstructing anything , even on the stock cart. When I say the airflow is restricted I don't mean as in unable to hit I guess im just comparing it to my Igo-w which gives me about the airflow of a straw, so it's like comparing drinking soda with a straw to drinking a really thick milkshake with a straw. I've found that with concentrates you want good airflow over the coil, or coils in order to achieve longer life of the product over time with heavy usage. I'm still waiting to drill out the cart housing while it's in the atty housing (pt3 base) in thinking this will greatly increase the airflow, because as I said before the holes on the pt3 housing bottom thread are almost 100% covered once the cart is screwed into the base. Poor design I guess. I should mention I haven't been using my PT at all since getting my kayfun clone, which also has a much greater airflow and is adjustable, which is definitely nice.

 

[2clicker]

@DabComa, do you get that same resistance with a clean PT3 and new coil?

as in, if it was all stock and had never been fired up... is the resistance still the same?

i only load enough to cover the coil/wick itself. i never load the whole top of the "cup".

 

[DabComa]

Yeah I wouldn't use it if I hadn't felt I had remedied the fluctuating resistance issue, I don't know I guess like I said I'll have to tinker around with it a bit more, maybe I'll see if I can photo the drilled air holes to illustrate better what I'm rambling on about...

 

[kingtut106]

Just purchased a PT3 didn't even bother trying it with the stock coils, went with my standard 1ohm and ss mesh for wick

Anyone here think of making a stove top coil that sits flat in the bottom with no wick?

 

[DabComa]

Just purchased a PT3 didn't even bother trying it with the stock coils, went with my standard 1ohm and ss mesh for wick

Anyone here think of making a stove top coil that sits flat in the bottom with no wick?

yes! I have tried it in my Igo-w without much success as I explained in another post. I used to have an atty with that specific coil that worked great. Stove top coil... so simple why didnt I think of that method of verbally describing it damn... I've got my eyes peeled for a rebuildable that would be friendly with such a coil build, because it is an awesome wickless design that easily catches all the very viscous oil with the aid of gravity. It be interesting to see other people attempts at this coil build.

 

[2clicker]

i am interested in a wickless coil, but wouldnt that much metal alone present an unwanted metal flavor...?

i would think that a slim disc of porous ceramic on top of the stove top coil would be ideal. similar to how TV revs/darts were set up. sheet of ceramic for the oil to soak into with heat source below it to heat the ceramic. of all the coils i have used the ceramic based wick coils all have tasted the best IMO.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

i am interested in a wickless coil, but wouldnt that much metal alone present an unwanted metal flavor...?

i would think that a slim disc of porous ceramic on top of the stove top coil would be ideal. similar to how TV revs/darts were set up. sheet of ceramic for the oil to soak into with heat source below it to heat the ceramic. of all the coils i have used the ceramic based wick coils all have tasted the best IMO.

I use kanger mini protank 2 with micro coil no wick tastes awesome compared to that with wick I will post pics one of these days when i have a camera.. It is very cool cause u can see vapor and the coil cause of the glass tank .. almost zero leakage till now !

 

[2clicker]

I use kanger mini protank 2 with micro coil no wick tastes awesome compared to that with wick I will post pics one of these days when i have a camera.. It is very cool cause u can see vapor and the coil cause of the glass tank .. almost zero leakage till now !

i know what u mean about seeing inside the tank. however after enough oil goes thru it will get fogged up and become opaque. nothing a quick cleaning cant fix, but you know.

looks like i am going to have to try a wickless coil. i do like the idea of the stove top coil.

let me just reach into my wallet.... oh boy

 

[DabComa]

let me just reach into my wallet.... oh boy

Haha nice, if my wallet could talk it would say "Woah Woah Woah! you said this e-cig nonsense was supposed to be cheaper then cigs whats going on here!"

 

[kingtut106]

Does anyone have any tips for avoiding shorts when doing rebuilds with a PT3, I'm using 28g kanthal and 300 ss mesh

I've only had one successful build (my first), but thought I could improve it after using it for the weekend. Unfortunately all of my other coils have not been working...

 

[215z]

Are you wetting then torching your mesh to give it that non-conductive oxidized surface?

 

[kingtut106]

Are you wetting then torching your mesh to give it that non-conductive oxidized surface?

Yea I typically torch and wet followed by unrolling and rerolling my mesh to get it as tight as possible.

I think my problem is coming from my wire ends out the bottom of the head. I have seen youtube videos of the rebuild and they always mention to cut the wires as short as possible, but I've been having a difficult time cutting them short enough and still having them in the right place

 

[2clicker]

let the leads hang out the bottom (make them longer than needed). then simply work them back and forth until they snap off at the atty head base.

 

[an0maly]

Hey. Caligula on the 'Ask FC' forum thought you guys here might be able to help with a question of mine. I really don't mean to hijeack your thread.

I'm just getting started with vaping and am presently trying to get a oil pen working correctly. Here's what I have so far:

eGo-C Twist variable voltage battery
Kangertech Mini ProTank 3

I put .5G of Trainwrech CO2 oil right in the Mini ProTank 3 and I'm now wondering if I messed up. Most of the oil soaked up into the wick. It hit nice at first, but now seems to taste weird. Like I'm getting flavor from the wick itself or something.

Can you guys tell me if I completely screwed this up? (and if so if there is any way to save my oil)

Thanks.

 

[Caligula]

@an0maly OT but Ive also found the old skool W9 essential oils carts (3.7v @ 2.4 ohms version) to work aces with straight C02 oil. Granted youll need a threading adapter since they use 601 threading but that's a viable option for you if you cant get your Kanger tank working.

http://www.vaporwarehouse.com/store/p/385-UP-Tech-Extract-Cartridge-Single.html

 

[an0maly]

@Caligula Thanks for the link. I think my Atmos Rx is 601 thread. If it is, that would work perfectly. I've been looking at the gentlemanvapes.com V2 and V2 Mega cartridges, but they're a lot more expensive. How do you determine the right # of ohms? 1.5, 2.4, 5.0

 

[Caligula]

@an0maly You want 2.4. The 1.5 and 5.0 run way too hot for C02 oil IMO... plus they are much less forgiving on noobs (they have a steeper learning curve). Plus the 5 ohm requires 7.4v so youd be unable to run that anyway.

And not to bounce you around again but these are questions for the Persei or Omicron thread in the Portable section.

Anyway, I found C02 oil to be the best stuff to run through those carts. They require 0 priming because the C02 oil is thin enough to feed almost instantly yet its thick enough not to leak like Pure Gold. Plus the carts easily hold half a gram of oil so its pretty convenient.

As for price, keep in mind the W9 carts are intended for single use... however C02 oil is pretty clean so you should be able to get multiple refills before it dies on you.

Oh also if your battery isnt 601, they make adapters.