How long do I vac purge for?

Just like the title says how long should I be vac purging for? When I did my first run I only needed to VAC purge for about 20 minutes or so but this last run I am doing I have been vac purging it for the past three hours and it's still not done? My first run was wax and this seems to be making a Shatter, is it just because it's going to be a shatter? Does shatter take longer to back purge then wax does? I just wanted to know what generally an average amount of time is to be running the vac purge for? It is only around 2 maybe 3 g of oil. I'm not too worried because I doubt you can over purge something LOL.
 
VapeNStone,
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Caligula

Maximus
Are you heating things as well? Its my understanding you want to do that in a vacuum in order to lower the boiling points of the residuals, allowing you to get them out without overheating the good stuff.

I know @ataxian vac purges all his stuff. Maybe he can chime in.
 
Caligula,
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Yes I am heating at well. Not very precise heat just a hot pad with my pot on top. Here is what my set up looks like.

g5wEpR1.jpg
 

hishighness

Well-Known Member
Just like the title says how long should I be vac purging for? When I did my first run I only needed to VAC purge for about 20 minutes or so but this last run I am doing I have been vac purging it for the past three hours and it's still not done? My first run was wax and this seems to be making a Shatter, is it just because it's going to be a shatter? Does shatter take longer to back purge then wax does? I just wanted to know what generally an average amount of time is to be running the vac purge for? It is only around 2 maybe 3 g of oil. I'm not too worried because I doubt you can over purge something LOL.
This is all just information I've heard from friends, never tried myself, but I usually hear vac purges are left on overnight "just to be sure," but if you're only working with a few grams, then when it looks done it's probably done. The only thing you gotta watch out for is vacuuming off terpenes which can happen if you set it too hot/leave it too long but as long as you stay below 120*F and don't leave it on for like, days, that shouldn't happen.

If I remember correctly the way to get shatter vs. honeycomb is shatter is purged at ~95*F and honeycomb is purged at ~115*F.

Would definitely still like to get someone who's experienced in these things to chime in

Edit: If you're using very imprecise heat I think the rule of thumb is the wax turns to shatter before honeycomb. If you've already invested X amount of money it may be worth it to purchase an infared thermometer ($60-100).
 

Enchantre

Oil Painter
I want to throw out a guess that the amount of plant matter in it, and plant moisture levels, have more to do with consistency (shatter, wax, budder) than purging does. Purging just makes it useable for some of us :)
 

r-bot

New Member
Keeping your temperatures low and constant is the key to a proper purge. A pancake griddle is not the best hot plate for direct heat to the chamber as it needs to keep reheating itself. Unless your hot plate can hold a steady low temp, try using a buffer to keep the chamber off the direct heat. A stew pot full of water with a cooling rack to keep the desiccator afloat, or a deep dish griddle with sand works best.

Make sure that you preheat the oil before purge and be sure that the temperature won't fluctuate during purge. For shatter keep the temp under 110f, and for wax over 110 but under 135.
There is no specific time for a complete purge, The rule of thumb is just go till it's done. When I make shatter I thin film purge till no reaction, flip once and purge the other side till no reaction, honeycomb doesn't need to be flipped. And if you want to have quick porous honeycomb give your oil a quick whip before putting it in the chamber.
 
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Enchantre

Oil Painter
that's awesome. So, it's how hot it gets when extracted (and purged) that dictates the form factor?
Love learning new things :)
 
Enchantre,
Now what if I basically almost fully purge and wipe it before I put it in the chamber? Then should I just be running it without heat at that point? Because I only so small runs and I blow right onto my silicon baking pad(I know your not supposed to do this but I have never had any silicon break off and go into my material, you just need to be careful) and I almost fully purge it first on that pad before scraping it off and putting it on the parchment paper and into the vac chamber. Badically I almost fully purge it anyways?
 
VapeNStone,

kingtut106

Well-Known Member
Now what if I basically almost fully purge and wipe it before I put it in the chamber? Then should I just be running it without heat at that point? Because I only so small runs and I blow right onto my silicon baking pad(I know your not supposed to do this but I have never had any silicon break off and go into my material, you just need to be careful) and I almost fully purge it first on that pad before scraping it off and putting it on the parchment paper and into the vac chamber. Badically I almost fully purge it anyways?

Heat is the key factor to allowing the butane to escape. Yes butane does boil off 34 F at 29 Hg so technically it has the ability to evaporate out, but the oil will be too viscous and the bubbles will not be able to pop. The heat around 100-110 F allows the oil to be runny enough so the bubbles can easily escape.
 
kingtut106,
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I know about the heat and how to get shatter vs wax I was wondering about my specific question? Should I even have the pot on the heat if I basically almost already purged the oil on my sil pad?
 
VapeNStone,

kingtut106

Well-Known Member
I know about the heat and how to get shatter vs wax I was wondering about my specific question? Should I even have the pot on the heat if I basically almost already purged the oil on my sil pad?

Depending on the viscosity of your wax it will probably need the heat to allow the remaining butane to escape.

Also I would recommend switching to parchment paper, even if no visible silicone pieces are getting stuck in your wax it can still be leeched into the wax because chemical interactions between them.
 

r-bot

New Member
I think he's referring to spraying solvent directly into silicone, it's not safe silicone is not rated for chemical solvents. Stick to Pyrex.

I know about the heat and how to get shatter vs wax I was wondering about my specific question? Should I even have the pot on the heat if I basically almost already purged the oil on my sil pad?

If you have used enough heat without vacuum the oil should be free of butane for the most part. If it doesn't react when under full vacuum that'll indicate if it needs to be purged longer.
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Yeah, don't blast onto silicone... that's what Pyrex is for. I've seen brand-name extract people talk about 18-36 hour vac purges for big runs minimum.
 
Quetzalcoatl,
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farscaper

Well-Known Member
I hear that using a ceramic stone or stack of tile pre heated and then placed in the dessicator works best for retaining a specified heat without a scientific hot plate. You can then set your silpat right on that in the chamber and vac. Envy here. Id love a vac setup.
 

Dablife559

New Member
Keeping your temperatures low and constant is the key to a proper purge. A pancake griddle is not the best hot plate for direct heat to the chamber as it needs to keep reheating itself. Unless your hot plate can hold a steady low temp, try using a buffer to keep the chamber off the direct heat. A stew pot full of water with a cooling rack to keep the desiccator afloat, or a deep dish griddle with sand works best.

Make sure that you preheat the oil before purge and be sure that the temperature won't fluctuate during purge. For shatter keep the temp under 110f, and for wax over 110 but under 135.
There is no specific time for a complete purge, The rule of thumb is just go till it's done. When I make shatter I thin film purge till no reaction, flip once and purge the other side till no reaction, honeycomb doesn't need to be flipped. And if you want to have quick porous honeycomb give your oil a quick whip before putting it in the chamber.
H
Keeping your temperatures low and constant is the key to a proper purge. A pancake griddle is not the best hot plate for direct heat to the chamber as it needs to keep reheating itself. Unless your hot plate can hold a steady low temp, try using a buffer to keep the chamber off the direct heat. A stew pot full of water with a cooling rack to keep the desiccator afloat, or a deep dish griddle with sand works best.

Make sure that you preheat the oil before purge and be sure that the temperature won't fluctuate during purge. For shatter keep the temp under 110f, and for wax over 110 but under 135.
There is no specific time for a complete purge, The rule of thumb is just go till it's done. When I make shatter I thin film purge till no reaction, flip once and purge the other side till no reaction, honeycomb doesn't need to be flipped. And if you want to have quick porous honeycomb give your oil a quick whip before putting it in the chamber.
Hey there Am learning and I have ? So you mind if I ask you them
 
Dablife559,
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