Healthy Rips FURY EDGE

Vandal

Well-Known Member
Thanks. I guess I’m wondering if I can expect a flavor upgrade going from starry (conduction) to this (hybrid).
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Thanks. I guess I’m wondering if I can expect a flavor upgrade going from starry (conduction) to this (hybrid).
The Fury Edge is around 80% conduction, the air hasn't enough space to warm up. but the flavor is good because the weed is placed inside a glass stem/adapter or stainless steel capsule/chamber.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
The Fury Edge is around 80% conduction, the air hasn't enough space to warm up.

Interesting. How is it you decided it's 'around 80%'? That is not 60 or 90%. TIA. I agree, incoming air hasn't had a chance to reach 390F (or whatever the setting is) but doesn't that just mean it'll 'steal' less of the heat that's conducted in to the load so it can exit at 390F.

When I was taught the rules heat went from hot to cold, I think it still does. If it's going to have convection making vapor the air has to bring the heat in to the load, meaning it has to be hotter going in that coming out. I don't believe there's such an animal as a 'hybrid' vape unless that condition (air heated above vaping temperature) is met. That is I see FURY as being a conduction vape exclusively.

By whatever process it does do an excellent job. Delivering excellent vapor and taste, as you point out as a result of SS and glass that can be kept clean? It does that good work by conduction (alone) I think. It has the characteristics of conduction (heat soaks, excellent battery life) not convection (power hogs, increasing vapor with heavier draws). And Thermodynamics sez so as well?

Regards to all.

OF
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Interesting. How is it you decided it's 'around 80%'? That is not 60 or 90%. TIA. I agree, incoming air hasn't had a chance to reach 390F (or whatever the setting is) but doesn't that just mean it'll 'steal' less of the heat that's conducted in to the load so it can exit at 390F.
AFAIK
Mighty is 50/50
Dynavap M is 90/10
Then I'd say: Fury edge/2 is 80/20
Doesn't have to be exact because we don't have the right equipment to measure it right now :)
 

shredder

Well-Known Member
Interesting. How is it you decided it's 'around 80%'? That is not 60 or 90%. TIA. I agree, incoming air hasn't had a chance to reach 390F (or whatever the setting is) but doesn't that just mean it'll 'steal' less of the heat that's conducted in to the load so it can exit at 390F.

When I was taught the rules heat went from hot to cold, I think it still does. If it's going to have convection making vapor the air has to bring the heat in to the load, meaning it has to be hotter going in that coming out. I don't believe there's such an animal as a 'hybrid' vape unless that condition (air heated above vaping temperature) is met. That is I see FURY as being a conduction vape exclusively.

By whatever process it does do an excellent job. Delivering excellent vapor and taste, as you point out as a result of SS and glass that can be kept clean? It does that good work by conduction (alone) I think. It has the characteristics of conduction (heat soaks, excellent battery life) not convection (power hogs, increasing vapor with heavier draws). And Thermodynamics sez so as well?

Regards to all.

OF

I don't have an edge, at least not yet. But one thing I like to do with my mighty is to do a real loose pack in a capsule, and let the air blow around the herb. I bump the heat a little too. And pop the cap in when the vape hits the target temp, not before. It may not fit your definition of convection, but it might be worth trying in an edge.

I get 4-6 nice airy convection style hits. I use it like this when I don't want a full packed load that would last 3 times as long. Using it with my wife or other people I pack the capsules, not hard, but you know, packed. I use an old 1/8th tsp spoon and tamp with the spoons bottom. Then the vapor is denser and it lasts longer.

Hope I'm not derailing the thread, just thought I'd mention this. I always thought of my F2 as a mini mighty, lol.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I get 4-6 nice airy convection style hits.

By 'convection style' hits you mean you have to draw a lot of hot air through the cold load to eventually get vapor like with VG? And then repeat if you pause a couple of minutes and let the load cool off?

What I find with EDGE is if I let heat soak in (by conduction.....) the next hit is immediately waiting for me after a pause. The load is hot, vapor is waiting.

Heat soaks being helpful is a symptom of conduction, not convection. Convection is just the opposite......

I am, of course, happy you get the results you want with that technique. While I'm not sure what 'convection style hits' are, my personal experience (WRT heat soaks, etc) tells me I'm enjoying the benefits of an excellently designed vape using conduction to make vapor for me.

Thanks for the post.

OF
 

stark1

Lonesome Planet
Coming from a starry, would the edge provide better flavor, smoother hits, and easier maintenance? Anyone owned this and a starry both?


My Starry has been languishing since I got a Fury, the precursor of the Edge.

The compact
Fury fits my (small-ish) hands, but I might yet get an Edge, and see for myself what edge its
sibling has over my beloved Fury(s). LOL
 

Jill NYC

Portable Hoarder
That is true, my F2 is almost 2 years old with a decent amount of direct oven use. It needs a good cleaning a couple of times a year (ISO and heat) and a quick brush out every several bowls - IMO - very low maintenance.
And 2 years in, the oven still looks great - barely any discoloration. (Tiny amount on one edge)

Using the new capsules help so you won’t need to brush the screen above the oven as often.
Without the caps, the screen can get resinous and clogged quickly - 1-2 sessions max without a brush for me. With the caps, I barely ever brush the screen or even the cap lids, for that matter.
 

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
A golf tee makes good use of old unused ashtrays (resharpened to keep the paint out of the bowl),
img_20190502_153858-jpg.8971

Also, a good spot for rolly stems to sit while hot.:tup:
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Trashcan by my desk, works well for me. I dont really get a cloud I aim it in the trash

Not really a practical solution, even if we all lived next door........ Think about it, do you really want a bunch of vapers coming by with their EDGEs at all hours? I mean even if they were all polite, didn't smell bad, and left your stash alone.......

I guess you could leave the trash can outside your front door, but still?

OF
 

NOLOGO

Well-Known Member
Has anyone found good replacement screens like the ones that come inside the blue gaskets?
Both POtV and HR only sell the gaskets and screens together. I’d like to be able to swap screens in and out of my gaskets.

(i think they’re just a standard ss screen, but i don’t own an accurate measuring tool)

tia!
 

olivianewtonjohn

Well-Known Member
Has anyone found good replacement screens like the ones that come inside the blue gaskets?
Both POtV and HR only sell the gaskets and screens together. I’d like to be able to swap screens in and out of my gaskets.

(i think they’re just a standard ss screen, but i don’t own an accurate measuring tool)

tia!

Try 3/8" and I suggest going with thicker, well cut (actually round), and non-frayed screens so it holds up better to being taken out (I have bought some pretty thin/fragile screens before).

EDIT: After taking the screen out, I suggest just buying extra gasket+screen sets. Its not worth the effort IMO switching out the screen, you're much better off switching the gasket if you need swappable screens vs cleaning it.

EDIT 2: Yeah not worth it, my screens are staying in place from now on. Cased some minor wear on the blue gasket getting the screen back in.
 
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NOLOGO

Well-Known Member
Try 3/8" and I suggest going with thicker, well cut (actually round), and non-frayed screens so it holds up better to being taken out (I have bought some pretty thin/fragile screens before).

EDIT: After taking the screen out, I suggest just buying extra gasket+screen sets. Its not worth the effort IMO switching out the screen, you're much better off switching the gasket if you need swappable screens vs cleaning it.

EDIT 2: Yeah not worth it, my screens are staying in place from now on. Cased some minor wear on the blue gasket getting the screen back in.
thanks for the reply.. and I'm very sorry that doing this made your gasket begin to wear. I've been removing and replacing the screens in my gaskets since getting the Edge... maybe about a month ago. I just can't seem to get the screens 100% clean while they're seated in the blue gaskets. My plan is to: pop the screen out, drop it into iso jar, take one that's been soaking in the iso out and pop it into the gasket.

My firewood 5 screens are unfortunately too large. I modded my fw5 with a super fine mesh that doesn't get clogged as easily. If like to try that in the edge.

EDITED "nodded to modded"
 

olivianewtonjohn

Well-Known Member
thanks for the reply.. and I'm very sorry that doing this made your gasket begin to wear. I've been removing and replacing the screens in my gaskets since getting the Edge... maybe about a month ago. I just can't seem to get the screens 100% clean while they're seated in the blue gaskets. My plan is to: pop the screen out, drop it into iso jar, take one that's been soaking in the iso out and pop it into the gasket.

My firewood 5 screens are unfortunately too large. I modded my fw5 with a super fine mesh that doesn't get clogged as easily. If like to try that in the edge.

EDITED "nodded to modded"

No worries things happen when you tinker, its very minor that you have to look for. I could see it causing more wear if I did it often. Sounds like you have the technique down and it works for you so yeah I would say 3/8" should work (dont have a pair of calipers handy just used a tape measure).
 

OF

Well-Known Member
My plan is to: pop the screen out, drop it into iso jar, take one that's been soaking in the iso out and pop it into the gasket.

Some suggestions for your consideration:
  • put the assembly in the dishwasher silverware tray (this is what I do, works well)
  • better still, wash in a jar of PBW, an extremely effective detergent designed for the brewery industry http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/pbw-the-chemistry-of-clean.7854/
  • if you do remove the screen, 'flame' it clean (heat to glowing with a torch and brush off)
  • don't use solvents like ISO if you want it really clean. Think about it, unless you rinse it a LOT, the solvent coating it still contains some contamination which will redeposit as it evaporates. Washing and rinsing in tap water (especially hot tap water) actually gets it cleaner. Besides, ISO is expensive, a fire hazard and tough on the environment (you're not putting it down the drain, right?).
Your call, of course. But the above ideas come from 'best practices' in science labs. IMO worth considering.

Regards to all.

OF
 

NOLOGO

Well-Known Member
Some suggestions for your consideration:
  • put the assembly in the dishwasher silverware tray (this is what I do, works well)
  • better still, wash in a jar of PBW, an extremely effective detergent designed for the brewery industry http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/pbw-the-chemistry-of-clean.7854/
  • if you do remove the screen, 'flame' it clean (heat to glowing with a torch and brush off)
  • don't use solvents like ISO if you want it really clean. Think about it, unless you rinse it a LOT, the solvent coating it still contains some contamination which will redeposit as it evaporates. Washing and rinsing in tap water (especially hot tap water) actually gets it cleaner. Besides, ISO is expensive, a fire hazard and tough on the environment (you're not putting it down the drain, right?).
Your call, of course. But the above ideas come from 'best practices' in science labs. IMO worth considering.

Regards to all.

OF
I don't have a dishwasher, but I DO have PBW. I never thought to try it on screens....just my glass pieces.

(Incidentally, every time I've kept an iso jar it has eventually just evaporated away over time. I would never pour it down the drain. I'm actually an adamant water conservationist. My household practices "if it's yellow let it mellow"):brow: tmi? lol

Thank you @OF ! I'm glad to know that pbw can help me "batch process" my screens
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Ultrasonic cleaners are effective and cheap, I would not like to be without mine now I have it, (get one that heats).:myday:

A good option for sure, at least in some/most cases. However not always. In the early days of Revolution (a 510 base oil vape from Thermovape) we kinda went nuts with them as it was very hard to clean the porous ceramic reservoir inside. However, after 'talking up' how effective it was with full support from the two TV principals, we triggered a rash of heater lead failures. The heaters were vibrating inside on their leads which were breaking at the crimps killing the cart. Had to backtrack at flank speed. Bad advice. Probably not an issue here, but it's good to remember it's not really magic, it can present problems.

That said, a neat 'trick' with such cleaners is to put your parts in a small jar or cup with the cleaner of your choice (not directly in the sink) and put that into the sink with enough water to match. The water in the sink vibrates the jar, which in turn vibrates the parts in their 'private bath' to cavitation and all is well. Adding a bit of detergent to the bath part (which of course you can leave since it stays clean) helps to 'wet' the jar and improve sound transfer.

Good suggestion......usually. Mine's in the bathroom, but the dishwasher is easier. And I like easy.

OF

Edit:
I don't have a dishwasher, but I DO have PBW. I never thought to try it on screens....just my glass pieces.

Thank you @OF ! I'm glad to know that pbw can help me "batch process" my screens

Yer welcome. I hope you find it useful. I use a 'baby food jar' for such things. I float it in a bowl of hot tap water in the sink (PBW works best hot) with the faucet running very slow to keep it hot.

The dishwasher is still easier and gets run every morning anyway.

FWIW, letting hydrocarbons evaporate off isn't really very green at all, in fact sorta brown? They (hydrocarbons) are part of PAN (photo chemical smog), when combined with nitrogen and sunlight. Best plan, IMO, is to use it sparingly if at all. Detergents aren't benign either, of course, they tend to be fertilizer for green stuff in the water. But at least there there's a system in place to deal with it. The environment can deal with modest quantities which is lucky, cleaning clothes by beating them on rocks gets old fast I'm told........

Regards to all.

OF
 
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